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Marantz cd94 mk2


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  The tda1541a  players still have more potential than most recognize.  My  modified Marantz  cd94  mk2   now  stands up there with the very  best in my humble opinion .

  Its taken years  and lots of work  .

 It is non over sampled ,reclocked with the best gold leaded Elnas,

 Copper foil caps in the digital and audio sections . Duelund vsf on the outputs   copper foil  decoupling caps on the tda1541a dacs  .all 28 of them .   

  Best thing is, with the lid on you wouldnt know . Its just classic Marantz 94 .

    

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Edited by brenden
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Hi Brendan,

 

Nice mod-project and agree the CD94 with TDA1541 dac chip and CDM1 pro transport sled mechanism has a lot of potential. Never quite liked it ‘as is' though, I once owned CD94+DAC94, the combo was over engineered and had a bland (undynamic) sound. With mods can take off.

 

I still have in the armoury and use a Zen-clocked, Duelundnized, battery powered CD94 transport into a TDA1541 Killerdac ...amazing humanistic sound as opposed to a mechanical digital result.

 

Cheers,

 

Steve.

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Hi Steve M

     My clock has had a lot of work too   , but have already  put my order in for a new updated  zen clock .   

   You may have already seen the comparison of this machine to the killer dac  .    I think I  was  lucky i got it back .    

   

  The  tda1541a  chip is awesome . The cdm1 is awesome  . Some of the caps were good  but some were  not  . 

  I really targetted the weakest links and  spent a lot of time to find the best parts possible . 

   I just sold my Marantz CD12  .   ?   It was a really tough decision for me .  It sounded awesome   , but  the mk2 still won  .  

  

   

      

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I never really understood the CD94  / CDA94  combo . The dac was almost identical  to what was in the integrated unit . Then you had to  connect a digital cable  seemed a bit pointless . In any case most  who listened to them never felt it was an upgrade  with the dac .  

    I could turn a 94 mk1 into a world class machine with the right treatment  and the extra room  would allow for some nice power supply improvements . The mk 2 is real tight inside  as you can see from the photos . The green caps around the dac are made of copper foil and polyphenylene sulphide dielectric  which is close to the quality of polypropylene  but much thinner  allowing for a much more compact cap .Normally  a foil cap would never fit  here .

   What you dont see underneath  this board  is  more caps bypassing the copper foils . This was the real turning point that made this player go from  excellence to greatness .

     The bypass caps i used are 1500v .01 auricaps  . They are very large  but  simply the best  bypass  caps i have  used. Never had a bad result and i have used hundreds . They are so sweet and resolving  but so neutral  you can use as many as you  like  and the sound never  gets  unbalanced. . 

    

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On 19/12/2017 at 9:01 PM, brenden said:

I never really understood the CD94  / CDA94  combo . The dac was almost identical  to what was in the integrated unit . Then you had to  connect a digital cable  seemed a bit pointless . In any case most  who listened to them never felt it was an upgrade  with the dac .

 

One big difference when comparing separate dac/trans to a one box cdp. The clock/s. In separates you have a clock in the dac and a clock in the transport, they are not sync'd together, in a one box cdp you have one clock for both dac and transport so these are sync'd together. 

Ten Labs use to made a an expensive $800 board kit that sync'd both separates together, but you needed to do some heavy surgery, and then have a second connection link for the transport to then run off the dacs clock.

 

Cheers George 

Edited by georgehifi
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On 12/19/2017 at 9:01 PM, brenden said:

I never really understood the CD94  / CDA94  combo . The dac was almost identical  to what was in the integrated unit . Then you had to  connect a digital cable  seemed a bit pointless . In any case most  who listened to them never felt it was an upgrade  with the dac .  

    I could turn a 94 mk1 into a world class machine with the right treatment  and the extra room  would allow for some nice power supply improvements . The mk 2 is real tight inside  as you can see from the photos . The green caps around the dac are made of copper foil and polyphenylene sulphide dielectric  which is close to the quality of polypropylene  but much thinner  allowing for a much more compact cap .Normally  a foil cap would never fit  here .

   What you dont see underneath  this board  is  more caps bypassing the copper foils . This was the real turning point that made this player go from  excellence to greatness .

     The bypass caps i used are 1500v .01 auricaps  . They are very large  but  simply the best  bypass  caps i have  used. Never had a bad result and i have used hundreds . They are so sweet and resolving  but so neutral  you can use as many as you  like  and the sound never  gets  unbalanced. . 

    

The CD94 has one DAC chip while the CDA94 has two. The CD94II was the one with two DAC chips. So there was an improvement if you had the CD94/CDA94 combo.

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Sometime in the past I owned a CD94 MK II and regretfully sold it to an SNA member 

 

Lucky for me I still own the Philips version of the CD94 - that would be a CD960 

So I will be interested in this thread to a future upgrade 

Any instructional links or components of tried and tested upgrades would be appreciated ??

 

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The CDA94  dac   only had one chip just like the mk1 . 

   The ones with two   tda1541 chips in dual differential were the CD94mk2  , the CD95 ,CD99, CD7  . Sir triode you may be thinking of the  rare Marantz Project d1  dac . It has 2 chips in dual differential .

  

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5 hours ago, Full Range said:

Any instructional links or components of tried and tested upgrades would be appreciated ??

There is a more detailed discussion about this particular player on the Killer Dac site  under other dacs . 

    But when time permits i would like  to add more here too. 

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 Full range . 

       I considered that product  a few years ago  . It is a nice easy and neat option for those that want an elegant solution  for non oversampling . I am sure it would be a decent upgrade ,and much easier for a novice. 

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5 minutes ago, brenden said:

I am sure it would be a decent upgrade ,and much easier for a novice. 

With the exception of one major caveat...as per their web site....

Please note:- When the NET Audio NOS board is fitted to a player the digital output for an external DAC is disabled.

This would be a deal breaker for me...

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4 minutes ago, brenden said:

I guess you could just plug the filter back in  if you want to use a dac .

My guess is there aren't that many...

Who leave the top off...run a clock off a car battery...

Swap boards around in a 30 year old CD player types...

Around here...let's see shall we..

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Yeah  , when i began this project i decided it had to be a fully boxed  , one box player indistinguishable from a stock player .

    The only thing that gives it away so far is the Duelund  vsf  output  capacitors  boxed in underneath , but you cant see that anyway unless you upend the player.  I may  hook up a servo to correct the op amp offset  as per Zens suggestion  and that would fix that .

     I dont run a battery to my clock  any more but chose to use a very ultra filtered  quiet power supply  .Its got around 9000uf of Elna audio caps just on the clock . The Valab clock has  its own  nice regulated supply .

Edited by brenden
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Here is the stock Valab clock . Nice regulated power supply  ,excellent strong  board . The only thing holding this back is the caps . First the little blue  philips ones are a bit noisy and grainy .

Ok for mid fi but not for this  . I could have used oscon  SG of which i have a stock  but went with the Elna silmic 2 super gold .

  Cheaper good alternatives would be the silmic 2  standard caps or the oscon standard .

      The small yellow ceramic  (a bit hard to see)  has to be replaced .they are horrible . Its only 100pf  but adds hash . Every ceramic i swap for a great foil cap has reduced hash .

 I replaced it with a copper foil polystyrene .   I was lucky enough  to  get a decent stock  in small sizes. 

     If  you want inky  black backgrounds these are all important .

  The two larger caps i used silmic 2 ,    1000uf .   and off board is a 6800uf Elna  in parallel with these .

   I replaced the brown  0.1 uf   mylar bypass  caps with  .01  copper foil   pps  Panasonic .  I now replace any 0 .1 bypass caps with a 0.01 cap because it is more natural . 0.1  tips up the subjective  frequency response   and sounds too bright . 

    Mylar caps seem to blur the sound  .not what we need around  the sensitive  clock . Any information  lost here cant be regained. 

   A cheaper alternative  would be a polypropylene  wima  or Ero   . Not as good but reasonable for the cost . My favourite bypass caps are the 1500v  auriicaps   but they arent cheap now .

   Underneath  I placed some .01  film caps much closer to the active devices  to ensure no noise gets through  and to ensure the devices had access to  as fast  current  as possible .  It might be over kill but results speak for themselves . Oh ,and nearly forgot the  Jupiter  copper foils  i  used as bypasses . These are beautiful caps  for signal and bypass  but too many may  cause a little roll off in the high end .  They may not work everywhere . I did try a few around the dac but replaced them with auricaps for a better result .

 

 

 

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Edited by brenden
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25 minutes ago, Rob181 said:

@LHC... @Eggcup The Daft...

Based on your E101 principles...

Has Brenden wasted shirtloads of money...

On a 30 year old CD player with all these mods...

 

:lol::lol::lol: Sorry. You have a case of mistaken identity. I was told by electrical expert that I don't know anything about complex E101. :cool::):fear: (using lots of emojis here). I was also schooled by another expert that the CD is a solved problem; and that the differences between R-2R and delta-sigma architectures are below human audibility limits. :thumb: 

So if you are seeking the official line to toe, perhaps it is 'yeah, he could have invested his money elsewhere, like speakers'. But that is not my personal opinion. I do marvel at people like the OP who invests their time, skills and money to a project obviously driven from the heart. Such dedication could only mean that they are continually being rewarded from their effort, and are driven along by encouraging progresses in their pursue. Well done I say.

 

Now I look at my own virgin (unmod) cd63 at home, and chastise myself for being such a failure. :(

 

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Guest Eggcup The Daft
12 hours ago, Rob181 said:

@LHC... @Eggcup The Daft...

Based on your E101 principles...

Has Brenden wasted shirtloads of money...

On a 30 year old CD player with all these mods...

I'm not "an E101" type. I am on the objectivist side - that is a different matter.

I presume you want us to come and lay into someone's project, on their post describing it? That doesn't feel right in this thread.

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1 minute ago, Eggcup The Daft said:

I presume you want us to come and lay into someone's project,

Not at all...

It was a genuine question as there have not been "before & "after" tests completed - other than listening...

Parts have been tried & sometimes replaced with others when the sound was not where it should have been...

How does it measure - who knows

How does it sound - sensational (from those whose ears I trust)...

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Here is a photo showing the Dem capacitor . The small black cap  next to the tda1541a 

   This is a small  680 pf  cap  in this case  .  I replaced the cheap cap with  a copper foil polystyrene  . This is much better quality and from memory improved the noise floor and detail . I could also try a copper foil pps , but the polystyrene worked nicely . You can also change the value.Some   cd  manufacturers  used  a 470pf here  but i havent fiddled too much except to replace an inferior part with a top  notch  part . This is a nice simple  and cheap upgrade without changing the  circuit in any way .

   A cheap alternative would be a fkp  polypropylene  film and  foil pulse type   from  wima or similar a good quality   polystyrene .

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Edited by brenden
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