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Cheap Isolation fix - Vast Improvement

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Just as an experiment I cut some small squares of the more porous Whites blocks, these come in 100mm x 100mm x 12.5mm, the air spaces are larger than in the other 50mm x 50mm squares, can get 4 small squares from each uncut square.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

 

They seem to work slightly better for me, and it seems logical to me at least with the larger air pockets/spaces.

 

20200215_204038.jpg.cadf2258f287666bf1f90acea20b5092.jpg

 

I think @Spukee in that other thread used the large mats of this more porous type when he isolated his speakers.

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On 07/02/2020 at 8:53 PM, gwurb said:

What foam would support the weight of 15kg+ without collapsing?

 

What would be an example of springs being used under speakers? 

Q.1 Ethafoam (open cell foamed polyethylene)

Q.2 

 

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On 07/02/2020 at 11:53 PM, gwurb said:

What foam would support the weight of 15kg+ without collapsing?

Thong supports up to 80Kg each foot. So 15Kg is no problem. Take a walk along xxxxx beach (insert your favourite bit of Oz coast) and pick up thong, cut into 35 x 35mm square. Voila, no money has left your pocket and, just as thong isolates you from sharp gravel, bindies and Scholl wearing socialist pariah, it can do the same under your favourite bit of music making audio.

Thong.jpg

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My ML-1's are 12 kilo each at least, maybe slightly more, and as can be seen they are sitting on boards held above the stands top plate with 4 each 3cm x 3cm squares of that porous anti vibration stuff from bunnings. The full size squares are 10cm x 10cm and are sold to be placed under washing machines.

Edited by muon*

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19 hours ago, muon* said:

Just as an experiment I cut some small squares of the more porous Whites blocks, these come in 100mm x 100mm x 12.5mm, the air spaces are larger than in the other 50mm x 50mm squares, can get 4 small squares from each uncut square.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

 

They seem to work slightly better for me, and it seems logical to me at least with the larger air pockets/spaces.

 

20200215_204038.jpg.cadf2258f287666bf1f90acea20b5092.jpg

 

I think @Spukee in that other thread used the large mats of this more porous type when he isolated his speakers.

Oh no, I got the 50mm pack! Didn’t realise it was different density to the 100mm blocks. 🙄

But then I was only looking to increase the height of the speakers.😉


Really pleased with SQ outcome, but now wondering whether it would be even better with the less dense 100mm block.🤔

 

Would have worked out cheaper too, after cutting into 50mm!🤣
 

 

90040B73-FD71-4FCE-8DAF-DDC705DCBDFF.jpeg

D906B3E6-A8C5-4DFD-81A6-BB79FA9E1CD2.jpeg

Edited by vivianbl

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Yeah, big savings :lol:

 

It's subtle, but I think still there in my situation.

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20 hours ago, PicoWattson said:

Thong supports up to 80Kg each foot. So 15Kg is no problem. Take a walk along xxxxx beach (insert your favourite bit of Oz coast) and pick up thong, cut into 35 x 35mm square. Voila, no money has left your pocket and, just as thong isolates you from sharp gravel, bindies and Scholl wearing socialist pariah, it can do the same under your favourite bit of music making audio.

Thong.jpg

When I've had rubber thongs (footwear), by the time they wear out they have permanent compression indentations where it has held the weight from my feet.  In the short-term, there would be no difference.  Longer term use I would expect compression.

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20 hours ago, muon* said:

Just as an experiment I cut some small squares of the more porous Whites blocks, these come in 100mm x 100mm x 12.5mm, the air spaces are larger than in the other 50mm x 50mm squares, can get 4 small squares from each uncut square.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

 

They seem to work slightly better for me, and it seems logical to me at least with the larger air pockets/spaces.

 

20200215_204038.jpg.cadf2258f287666bf1f90acea20b5092.jpg

 

I think @Spukee in that other thread used the large mats of this more porous type when he isolated his speakers.

An alternative that is porous and cheap.  Go to your local pharmacy and buy Heroes for the removal of corns and callouses.

http://www.heros-int.com/sponge-en.html

 

John

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On 15/02/2020 at 6:31 PM, lemarquis said:

I now have the pads under the feet of all components sitting on the butcher's blocks and under the small bamboo board on top of the speaker stands as you and @Soundscape have done. One thing I did notice was that the pads are not all cut to exactly the same height so a spirit measure is essential to align them correctly. Maybe they will settle down with a bit of time (break in? :D )

Will have a listen over the weekend and report back.

SPEAKER.jpg

Hi, I would suggest trying a different approach. The top of the stand and the bamboo board look too small to provide adequate stability for the speaker. IMO you would be better off making some boards that are the same dimensions as the speaker boxes, and fix them firmly to the top of the stands, with screws or countersunk bolts and nuts (or blutack). Then place the isolation pads at each corner, directly under the speakers. This will give much better stability, make it much easier to level the speakers and the isolation factor will be improved as well. The boards will also help to dampen the top plates of the speaker stands, a crude but useful constrained layer construction. Even better if you add a thin layer of rubber or similar sandwiched between the board and the top of the stand, which will improve the damping factor. 

Edited by Soundscape

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12 hours ago, Soundscape said:

Hi, I would suggest trying a different approach. The top of the stand and the bamboo board look too small to provide adequate stability for the speaker. IMO you would be better off making some boards that are the same dimensions as the speaker boxes, and fix them firmly to the top of the stands, with screws or countersunk bolts and nuts (or blutack). Then place the isolation pads at each corner, directly under the speakers. This will give much better stability, make it much easier to level the speakers and the isolation factor will be improved as well. The boards will also help to dampen the top plates of the speaker stands, a crude but useful constrained layer construction. Even better if you add a thin layer of rubber or similar sandwiched between the board and the top of the stand, which will improve the damping factor. 

Hi and thanks for the tip. The photo may look deceptive as the speakers are rock solid on the stands (they weigh 15kg ) but your suggestion makes sense so will give that  approach a try :thumb:

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12 hours ago, Soundscape said:

Even better if you add a thin layer of rubber or similar sandwiched between the board and the top of the stand

Bunnings also have the anti vibration product in a thin layer roll 4mm thick, or pads 3mm thick.

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-90-x-60-x-3mm-rubber-leveling-pad-60-pack_p3961981

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-100mm-x-1m-anti-vibration-pad_p3961983

 

 

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OK. The results are in after a weekend of testing the little black magic squares..

 

I put them under the amp, cdp dac and speakers. All had bamboo butcher's block in place already.  I placed these under the feet of the gear sitting on the blocks. It was going to be a challenge to say which thing led to any improvement as I did it all at once but here goes..

 

First thing I noticed was that the dac didn't like it. Lost a bit of focus. This may be because the dac is quite small and light or a different implementation may be required. So I removed them.

 

Next on to some CD sessions. (As background the Halcro was NOS and came without feet so I had it on some big sturdy round plastic bottle tops. This was, in retrospect, a prime candidate for some improvement. )

 

Wow! Where is that WEIGHT coming from? The orchestra is massive. Is it boom or bloom? Is it going to mess with the lower midrange? Answer was No. After extensive listening to several familiar classical works (piano concertos) I lost nothing but gained enormous weight and authority. Now for some Year of the Cat. Great album with plenty of nice analog instruments and very very familiar territory to these ears. Again, WOW! The bass notes (bass guitar or drums) are so tight you feel them. Yes not just hear but actually feel (I'm not talking massive drum solos just nice tuneful playing). Detail? You hear people say they heard things they never heard before? Well I've played this album hundreds and hundreds of times and yes, I heard new things. Like under a guitar solo there's another little thing going on. Notes I'd heard before but now I know what they're saying (micro dynamics, lower noise floor?). Instruments like acoustic guitar had more body and resonance.  Background orchestral pieces had more cohesion and clarity in the mix. Just great. I recently tweaked the Halcro with an audio mat that took it to another level (well worth it even at $300). Now with the $4 black magic I got an almost equivalent improvement. 

 

Back to the Dac for some DSD sessions. Again just awesome weight, scale, clarity and authority. Hard to say but I think the amplifier has a lot to do with this.  Maybe the speakers too.  But the cdp has definitely moved up another level with the blocks under it.

 

As the man used to say... "Do yourself a favour.." :thumb:

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So this is where I'm up to currently, glued the blocks of tungsten together using locktite 406, sandwiched between 16mm mdf using gorilla glue and have roughly filled the gaps using automotive bog. The blocks sit on 3x 50mm bunnings isolation pads, and I've used bluetack between the speaker and the blocks, I feel the bass is punchier, and clearer, the unit they sit on has less vibration to it too. Still a fair amount of work left in them but very happy so far, as far as the weight goes they're up around the 15kg mark.

20200303_044405.jpg

20200311_191036.jpg

20200313_141016.jpg

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Hi, the whites squares (brand name) from Bunnings do work very well. I kind of discovered them independently , but great to see this thread that many others are enjoying. I never thought of putting under electronics but will give it a go.

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For light components, the earthquake protection gel squares from Daiso work a treat.  If you trim the plastic sheet bit don’t remove it, then they won’t stick to the component.  With these under the bamboo board below my TT, it is less prone to skipping from footfalls  than anything else I have tried so far.  I also like the sound.

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