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All set for new projector


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7 minutes ago, steffanth said:

my experience with FTA and Sports on the x7000 with a 120 inch screen is that its not great......the resolution is just too low to get a good picture..........YMMV.

 

I dont watch FTA though so its not really an issue..i have netflix

ok thanks. Are the Epsons better for this? I won't watch much FTA but sometimes watching the rugby league on channel 9.

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12 minutes ago, steffanth said:

I wouldnt expect the epson to be any better tbh.  Once you have a low resolution image on a big screen then you lose the picture quality....don't think it will matter what projector u have.  Its a problem thats coming in now for the bigger tv's as well..im seeing the same issue starting with my 75 inch tv

oh ok thanks. I was more referring to the motion for sports between the JVC and Epson

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5 hours ago, k3nnis888 said:

oh ok thanks. I was more referring to the motion for sports between the JVC and Epson

Yea i am going to look into this a little and see how the x5500 handles this in weeks to come. I am still a little green at the moment and once i learn my way around the JVC menu i will start playing movies on a regular basis.I threw on Avatar and was amazed by the color and depth in the picture. The brightness is a huge leap forward for me coming from the Yamaha dpx530. There is so much going through my head at the moment especially with the new Marantz Pre/pro.This current setup is so different to my previous.

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oh ok thanks :) How much did the pre pro setup set you back?

I don't think I can afford pre/pro , maybe just AVR. And my room maybe too small for pre/pro setup? 4mX3.4m

Using B&W MT30 package with the PV1 sub

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13 minutes ago, k3nnis888 said:

oh ok thanks :) How much did the pre pro setup set you back?

I don't think I can afford pre/pro , maybe just AVR. And my room maybe too small for pre/pro setup? 4mX3.4m

Using B&W MT30 package with the PV1 sub

Well my pre/pro setup started with the avpa1hd and the poaa1hd as they were my first.The Avpa1 cost me $11.500 and the POAa1 i bought from a pal on Stereo net for $6500. The AVPa1 died and i ended up buying the Marantz 8802A in a screen and projector package.

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9 minutes ago, drummerboy01 said:

Well my pre/pro setup started with the avpa1hd and the poaa1hd as they were my first.The Avpa1 cost me $11.500 and the POAa1 i bought from a pal on Stereo net for $6500. The AVPa1 died and i ended up buying the Marantz 8802A in a screen and projector package.

Nice! Well there is no way in the world I can afford that :) Is it all subjective with pre/pro vs all in one AVR on which one sounds better?

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11 hours ago, k3nnis888 said:

Nice! Well there is no way in the world I can afford that :) Is it all subjective with pre/pro vs all in one AVR on which one sounds better?

The good thing is that now a days you don't need to spend all that money. For just a tiny bit more i got all three being the projector,Marantz and screen for the price i payed for my AVPA1. Times have changed and moved on and if you are satisfied with not having to go super hi end then its for the better.There is no way i will spend this sort off money again on 1 item.As far as which sounds better being a single receiver or a combo, it depends on your own ears and what you are striving to achieve as that's all that matters. You will know what sounds best when you hear it and don't forget it also depends on which speakers you are running.My speakers are designed for home theater and that's what i was and still am trying to achieve. I have learned a fair bit from having separates as opposed to a single receiver.From my experience i can say separates sound cleaner but hey i could be wrong.The more we split hairs in this hobby the more it costs.:rolleyes:

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Here's a shot off the screen in place.They are just rough photos but it gives you guys a fair idea on what i have achieved and am very happy with.I could take some screen shots but i will wait until i have a little bit more understanding off the JVC menu as at the moment i am very uneducated in this area.

IMGP1972 (Medium).JPG

Edited by drummerboy01
forgot the pic
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Here is a screenshot. My camera work is shocking as the image looks better in the room but i have reached a point where i am getting used to the lens shift. Man i am so happy with this projector and i am glad i picked the 5500 as it is a huge step up from my last yammy.

IMGP1978 (Medium).JPG

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2 hours ago, steffanth said:

you never get tired of a picture that good.  Once you have some hours on the globe get it calibrated.....you get a good improvement in pq and colour.  For me one of the best improvements with calibration was the depth perception in a scene.  The Revenant is a good movie for that.......though it kinda looks like you have that already

Will def look into it Steffanth. I will start with my Cal dvd and go from there and when i have done enough hours on it i will get it calibrated as i think there is a guy in bundy qld that does it.I have already clocked up 4 hours.

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On 05/07/2017 at 9:35 AM, drummerboy01 said:

Here's a shot off the screen in place.They are just rough photos but it gives you guys a fair idea on what i have achieved and am very happy with.I could take some screen shots but i will wait until i have a little bit more understanding off the JVC menu as at the moment i am very uneducated in this area.

IMGP1972 (Medium).JPG

Nice clean set up.  How are you finding the reflective tiles?  Ideally, this end of the the room is where you want absorption.    

Tip on your centre channel speaker.  This is a D'Appolito 3/2 Geometric Array and this design dates back to the 1970s where it was intended to run vertically.  The design shapes the sound of the HFs into an ellipse.  In your case, that ellipse is running vertical.  If you were to turn the speaker 90 degrees to be play vertical, that ellipse would now run horizontal and two things would happen - 

1. you get smoother integration to the L and R speakers and 

2. you minimise reflections off the floor and ceiling.  Dialogue becomes clearer.   

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18 hours ago, drummerboy01 said:

Ok thanks Mark i will give that a try mate.I am finding the tiles a little reflective but plan on getting a large mat to put I down.It's always good to get other people's advice.The more the better.

Yes a nice big, thick throw rug will make a world of difference.  Carpeting that stage would be even better.  

I first experimented with treatments back in 2000 when I bought my first house and was able to build a small, dedicated HT.  From there, we can only add more after listening and taking measurements.  My current room is 7 years old now, and still sounds quite good despite it developing some rattles - mainly the doors. 

The first 1/3rd of my room is fully treated with absorptive materials along with the bottom half of the other 3rds.  I am in the process of adding diffusion to these parts.  My RT-60 results measured with REW are all below 3 which is the target for reverb in  a HT.  Basically there are two things we need to treat  - 
1. Control of reverb (in the room) and 
2. Sound isolation (this is a 2 way street as I don't want to hear the neighbours anymore than they want to hear me).  

Adding diffusion will assist in keeping the "reflective" bright with out "slap echoes".  The room does sound good (I had a sound engineer in the other night who said it sounded very good) but I can sometimes hear nasties depending on where I am standing, so the goal is to fix those issues.  You don't hear these when seated, but I do hear them when demoing the room.  Most people won't hear these because their RT-60 reading are well over 3 and they are hearing way more reflections that I have in my room.  I also EQ'd my room after Auto EQ was done by using a RTA and the manual EQ controls on the AVR.  This level of EQ is only recommend once room treatments have been installed.     

MY ROOM is based on a screening room design by THX, published about 25 years ago.  The only thing I did different (my room was built in 2010) was to lower the surrounds (based on real world experience of building small rooms) to slightly higher than seated ear height.  and as it turned out, this worked in my favor as DOLBY ATMOS now requires the surrounds to be closer to seated ear height than the older "rule of thumb" of two feet higher".    

 

Edited by MarkTecher
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I have a problem with the low frequencies from my sub rattling one of my doors. Although i have no windows,just 2 doors on the same door frame as you enter the room from the outside.Its the inside door that rattles while watching a movie.I was thinking of padding the door with carpet or something of the like.Probably have to change the way i have it fitted too.

IMGP2020 (Medium).JPG

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Awesome Dave,i am on to it mate.They have a nice amount of options.Also this type of system can help keep the insects out which i get tired of squatting.Its a wonder i have not looked into this before.:)Thanks mate.

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Yeah. When I was having the cinema room built, I had the builder run a router through the bottom edge and install a RP99si and the door frame has an RP10.

Works well. A couple of hundred bucks, but well spent.

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16 minutes ago, drummerboy01 said:

Dave, is your cinema room separate to the house or apart of it.

It was part of renovation, and as such has lots of common walls with other rooms.

As a consequence I can't listen at "Reference" levels with anyone else home.

The only way to truly soundproof a room is to build a room within a room, or have a completely separate building. Sounds like water. It will always find a way to escape if it can.

 

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1 minute ago, IMDave said:

It was part of renovation, and as such has lots of common walls with other rooms.

As a consequence I can't listen at "Reference" levels with anyone else home.

The only way to truly soundproof a room is to build a room within a room, or have a completely separate building. Sounds like water. It will always find a way to escape if it can.

 

My room is separate to the house.Being a separate building has some advantages but i find that the bass is so hard to contain.If i close both doors and go outside i can only just hear the move,music.On the  other hand under the same circumstances the sub sound is a little louder being the shaking of the inside door.I think though if i go down the road off your recommendation,i should be able to at least hear better separation as the door wont be rattling.Plus a tiny bit more sound stays in the room at least.My room is 190mm besser block filled with concrete so i battened the walls and installed 2 layers off 13mm Boral soundstop board on walls and ceilings inside.I have it treated with sound insulation.The neighbors definitely can not hear a thing.It will be good when i get these door seals you recommended.

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On 7/7/2017 at 3:22 PM, CAVX said:

Yes a nice big, thick throw rug will make a world of difference.  Carpeting that stage would be even better.  

I first experimented with treatments back in 2000 when I bought my first house and was able to build a small, dedicated HT.  From there, we can only add more after listening and taking measurements.  My current room is 7 years old now, and still sounds quite good despite it developing some rattles - mainly the doors. 

The first 1/3rd of my room is fully treated with absorptive materials along with the bottom half of the other 3rds.  I am in the process of adding diffusion to these parts.  My RT-60 results measured with REW are all below 3 which is the target for reverb in  a HT.  Basically there are two things we need to treat  - 
1. Control of reverb (in the room) and 
2. Sound isolation (this is a 2 way street as I don't want to hear the neighbours anymore than they want to hear me).  

Adding diffusion will assist in keeping the "reflective" bright with out "slap echoes".  The room does sound good (I had a sound engineer in the other night who said it sounded very good) but I can sometimes hear nasties depending on where I am standing, so the goal is to fix those issues.  You don't hear these when seated, but I do hear them when demoing the room.  Most people won't hear these because their RT-60 reading are well over 3 and they are hearing way more reflections that I have in my room.  I also EQ'd my room after Auto EQ was done by using a RTA and the manual EQ controls on the AVR.  This level of EQ is only recommend once room treatments have been installed.     

MY ROOM is based on a screening room design by THX, published about 25 years ago.  The only thing I did different (my room was built in 2010) was to lower the surrounds (based on real world experience of building small rooms) to slightly higher than seated ear height.  and as it turned out, this worked in my favor as DOLBY ATMOS now requires the surrounds to be closer to seated ear height than the older "rule of thumb" of two feet higher".    

 

Nice room Mark,that lens is bigger than i thought it would be.It looks to be a room inside a room.Very nice job mate.

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22 minutes ago, drummerboy01 said:

Nice room Mark,that lens is bigger than i thought it would be.It looks to be a room inside a room.Very nice job mate.

Thanks.  I like it and seem to go into there even of not watching a film.  I don't listen to near enough music these days.  

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