YourMateDyl Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) That would be awesome! What sort of dimensions would you need? It currently sits at 5.9 x 4.5 with another 600mm behind the screen (picture a very large 600mm deep feature cutout on end wall). Below the screen we're thinking built in cabinets running right across the room to house all the gear (with the added bonus that they can vent heat into the space behind the screen). I've been able to convince the good wife to move the couch forward 600mm off the back wall, although she now wants that space behind the couch to be a low built in cupboard on the other side (the gym room). So basically would be like a shelf running behind the couch if that makes sense. If the PJ was 5m from the screen we'd run a 900mm bulkhead around the room leaving a gap at the back for the PJ to go in. She'd also like the couch on a small 10 or 15cm riser, purely for looks I think but whatever. Now I just need to do a sheetload more on-call work to pay for it! Cool. I modelled a very basic layout to start off with on the information you gave. Is that somewhere in the ballpark? With the cupboards on the front, did you want something flush against the wall or something protruding like shown? Don't worry about the couch for now - trying to find a Theatre couch already made is a bit** to find. This is all modeled on 2.4m high walls. So at least that gives some proportion for the rest of the room.. Let me know what you want to change before we render it. Edited June 4, 2016 by Dylan86.exe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandS Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Good stuff, what programme are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Good stuff, what programme are you using? 3Ds Max and Vray. I use the Unreal game engine for walk-throughs too if you want to be able to interact and change colours/materials in real-time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thanks Dylan86 that's great! Hopefully the cabinets at the front will sit flush with the screen wall. The riser for the couch will run the full width of the room and looks like the door into the room will be towards the front somewhere. Can you put a gap in the bulkhead at the back of the room for the PJ to go in? I notice when people do sound treatments they always protrude from walls, would having cutouts for movie posters in the walls achieve the same thing? We're thinking about trying to put some in but not sure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) That would be awesome! What sort of dimensions would you need? It currently sits at 5.9 x 4.5 with another 600mm behind the screen (picture a very large 600mm deep feature cutout on end wall). Below the screen we're thinking built in cabinets running right across the room to house all the gear (with the added bonus that they can vent heat into the space behind the screen). I've been able to convince the good wife to move the couch forward 600mm off the back wall, although she now wants that space behind the couch to be a low built in cupboard on the other side (the gym room). So basically would be like a shelf running behind the couch if that makes sense. If the PJ was 5m from the screen we'd run a 900mm bulkhead around the room leaving a gap at the back for the PJ to go in. She'd also like the couch on a small 10 or 15cm riser, purely for looks I think but whatever. Now I just need to do a sheetload more on-call work to pay for it! Ok no problems. I've deleted the front cabinet because I wasn't happy with a few things, so I need to re-model that - but I've altered the riser, and cleaned up a few things and added some basic 140mm skirting. You're going to run into problems putting your projector in the bulkhead. What is your wall height? If it's 2.4m, it's doesn't leave alot of room for the bulkheads (in height) which means you probably won't be able to adequately fit the projector inside because your bulkheads can only come down to the height of the door which is 2040 + the thickness of your architrave. If your walls are taller - no issues. With your treatment, consider treating first reflection points only. The ceiling and the rear wall are the primary focus, with first reflections next to the front stage on the side walls optional. There's no benefit treating side walls towards the centre of the room as it dulls the spaciousness of the room and removes clarity. I would get creative with you're star ceiling and allow it to act as treatment aswell as function as your star ceiling. Maybe something like this for your rear walls: https://www.westcoasthificannington.com.au/Products/Acoustic-Treatment/Vicoustic-Multifuser-DC2.aspx And something like this for your ceiling: https://www.westcoasthificannington.com.au/Products/Acoustic-Treatment/Vicoustic-Cinema-Round-Premium.aspx Edited June 6, 2016 by Dylan86.exe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STAIN0 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Now you have riser, put another two seats in front. Let wife sit at the back and not enjoy the surround properly haha. I wish I had 6m to play with :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Thanks again Dylan!!!!!! We're hoping to have the bulkheads at normal ceiling height and the part in the middle is higher, rather than the bulkhead dropping down from normal ceiling height. I'm keen to see how you do your star ceiling.....may have to copy that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Thanks again Dylan!!!!!! We're hoping to have the bulkheads at normal ceiling height and the part in the middle is higher, rather than the bulkhead dropping down from normal ceiling height. I'm keen to see how you do your star ceiling.....may have to copy that! Cool, I'll fix that up for you. And do some more work on it over the weekend and start rendering it so it looks pretty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) First render of your room. Still some bugs that need fixing like the jaggered window edges and the random fourth light out of place, but meh...I'm going to put some LED lighting under each tread of the steps and see how that might look I actually like the random colours I chose for you haha! Giving me ideas for my build. Also those chairs are available in Melbourne I believe incase anyone is wondering. Edited June 9, 2016 by Dylan86.exe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 WOW! Thankyou, that's awesome. Met with builders yesterday so I'll send these through to the draftsmen so he understand what we want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 WOW! Thankyou, that's awesome. Met with builders yesterday so I'll send these through to the draftsmen so he understand what we want. No problems at all. If you've got any changes you want just let me know. I'll keep throwing some ideas up - I'm having to much fun with this room Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Can we put the downlights around the room in the bulkhead? We're getting the draftsman to draw it up with a 600mm step in off the back wall at couch height (cause I can't describe it very well) behind the couch. Basically it means the couch is 600 off the back wall and there will be a shelf around the height of the couch. The space below the shelf will be used as a low level built in storage cupboard in the gym room. I'll try and draw it in crayon and attach it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 (edited) Can we put the downlights around the room in the bulkhead? We're getting the draftsman to draw it up with a 600mm step in off the back wall at couch height (cause I can't describe it very well) behind the couch. Basically it means the couch is 600 off the back wall and there will be a shelf around the height of the couch. The space below the shelf will be used as a low level built in storage cupboard in the gym room. I'll try and draw it in crayon and attach it! Send me some pics. I'm trying to picture what you mean, but not 100% sure. Sounds easy though. Here's some more pics in the mean time. Edited June 11, 2016 by Dylan86.exe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STAIN0 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I like how cool this is. +1 for the random colours too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 While I'm waiting for the builders quote, what's the name of the thicker plaster board again? I remember people talking about it a while back and there was a special sound one but most people recommended just a thicker (?16mm) normal board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quark Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Fyrcheck is usually cheaper than Soundcheck and has similar acoustic properties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinzan Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Soundcheck at 13mm thickness will do about the same job (in terms of sound stopping ability) as 16mm fyrechek, but the later is from memory 30 to 50% cheaper. Sure there's an extra 3mm thick but it's not much in the grand scheme of things. Not sure if I read early on or not, how far do you want to take the soundproofing endeavour? How close are bedrooms to this room? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 Soundcheck at 13mm thickness will do about the same job (in terms of sound stopping ability) as 16mm fyrechek, but the later is from memory 30 to 50% cheaper. Sure there's an extra 3mm thick but it's not much in the grand scheme of things. Not sure if I read early on or not, how far do you want to take the soundproofing endeavour? How close are bedrooms to this room? Just the frycheck and insulation in the walls will do. Kids bedrooms are far enough away, closest is guests and they can just suck it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Unfortunately still nothing to report here. Haven't had time to meet with a sparky yet regarding the power, but did speak to people that have bought one of the other blocks (20 acres), they're building a similar sized house and the sparky said no worries with power so that's a good sign I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourMateDyl Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 5 hours ago, ratty05 said: Unfortunately still nothing to report here. Haven't had time to meet with a sparky yet regarding the power, but did speak to people that have bought one of the other blocks (20 acres), they're building a similar sized house and the sparky said no worries with power so that's a good sign I guess. I'm in the same boat. Need to get some money back in the bank since the house finished before we start buying new shiny equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty05 Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Finally got around to meeting with the sparkie, he didn't seem to think power would be a problem. Advised us to apply for 2 phase 100amps. Will send the paperwork in and see what happens next.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oztheatre Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 On 11/11/2016 at 0:14 AM, ratty05 said: Finally got around to meeting with the sparkie, he didn't seem to think power would be a problem. Advised us to apply for 2 phase 100amps. Will send the paperwork in and see what happens next.... You mean 3 phase? They will do a max demand calcuation off .. they use AS7000, sparkies rely on AS3000. Your sparky will need to tally up all the appliances and power/amps each item pulls and send to energex thru his portal online. They will then tell you what you need. Be careful though I've just been thru all this with energex. What you end up getting will be based on the transformer on the street that supplies your new house. If it's 80amp fuses you cannot put in 100amps. 80amps across 3 phases is 240 amps which is way more than enough. 3 phase.. actually why do you need 3 phase in the first place? It's a good reselling point, many people love '3 phase' without even knowing what it means lol. Your sparky will also need to calculate voltage drop - cannot be under 5% over any distance, that will determine cable size. my run was 310 metres so the cables were 70mm xlpe which was bloody expensive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLXXX Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 2 minutes ago, oztheatre said: You mean 3 phase? 3 phases are needed for 3 phase motors, e.g. the compressor motor for a very large air-conditioner. However it is quite feasible to wire a house for just 2 phases and connect half of the power and lighting circuits to one phase, and the other circuits to the second phase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oztheatre Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 2 minutes ago, MLXXX said: 3 phases are needed for 3 phase motors, e.g. the compressor motor for a very large air-conditioner. However it is quite feasible to wire a house for just 2 phases and connect half of the power and lighting circuits to one phase, and the other circuits to the second phase. Yes. But I haven't heard that enegex allow this? You'd have to have 2 main isolated breakers, they'd both be single phase breakers though.. I guess in theory you could do it but unless you're pulling more than 63amps I doubt they'd allow it? As long as the mains cables are the right size, you could just run a sub board for the theatre and maybe a couple of power circuits sheds etc. We're getting separate circuits for both kitchen and media room and lighting spread across 2 x 20 amp circuits with rcbo's, safer I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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