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doobie1

What Good $1500 Lcd Projector, Blacks, Low Noise, 4.5M Throw Etc

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Thanks, I saw the screen measurements in your first post. The 127" and 96" measurements are the 16:9 image size equivalents when you project scope and 16:9 material, respectively on your 120" scope screen.

OK, much less of a PITA if you don't need a ladder.

With the 4.5m throw you should be good to go. :)

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ok thanks for that - learning as I go :thumbsup:

You also mentioned about changing the screen, but I am unable to do that due to the way the previous owner has 'designed' around it - so stuck with.

Again, appreciate your input - thank you.

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Let us know how it goes once you've got the projector installed. :)

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I will do.

(just trying to make sure the 6600 will be capable of doing 2.35:1 with zooming etc. with still good clarity and not any/or much loss of image quality/pixel)

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Well I found that the Epson TW 6600 doesn't 'really' do 2.35:1 but 2.15:1.

So purchased the TW8200 including calibration DVD for $2,560 :thumbsup:

Edited by doobie1

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If you're budget could have been stretched a little more, the pana 8000 has lens memory and can be had for under 2800...

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I was stretching the extra dollars far enough already considering the OP.

But comes with 2 x 3-D glasses as well, which I don't think would come with the pana 8000 for under $2,800.

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Correct, it was without glasses.

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Just a quick question on the Epson tw8200, as getting a little mixed up with the 2.35:1 ratio side of things.

On Epsons throw calculator it shows 1.34 - 2.87 (wide-tele) as native resolution when putting this pj in.

Does this mean it can do 2.35:1?

Just to re-cap on my specs:-

- distance from lens to screen = 4.5m

- Screen is 120" diagonal (47" / 120 cm H x 110" / 280 cm W)

- Ceiling to of screen = 39 cm

- Floor to bottom of screen 72 cm

- Ceiling height 2.4m

Thanks for any help.

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All you need to do is goto the projector central calculator, set the distance to 4.5 metres, adjust the zoom until you reach the width of the 120 scope screen. If it reaches that width, all good.

What is that model called in the US? I can check for you.

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Thanks yet again oztheatre for your help in this.

I did put in the distance (4.5m) but there is no 'adjust the zoom' section to change within the calculator - if I start changing one thing, it changes everything else (e.g. - put in 120" diagonal but change actual screen height etc, it changes the diagonal size etc).

From what I can find, the tw8200 is the 5030ub (but European - I can't find a US equivalent).

Per projectorcentral.com > projector review > Epson powerlite 5030ub (see "limitations" section about 'no anamorphic stretch')

(I can't seem to copy/paste the info - sorry)

I'm not much help sorry.

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per the above oztheatre, I was just looking back on my other post with regard to 16.9 and 2.35.1.

You mentioned in there that as long as I can manually zoom the pj in and out, then it would open up to any model.

looking at an article in ProjectorCentral.com (on 'Choosing the right aspect ratio - part 3 - aspect ratio's and the projector you select) it says "Select a projector with zoom lens that exceeds 1.3x in zoom range preferably with powered zoom and lens shift".

Now the TW8200 specs say:-

Zoom 1 - 2.1 (so that fits) and Lens Shift (vertical) -/+96.3% and (horizontal) -/+ 47.1%. - So I presume that is all ok.

The projector distance says for a 100" screen is 2.98 - 6.36 mts. (as I am wanting 4.5m, then this seems ok too).

The throw ratio is 1.34 (zoom-wide) and 2.87 (zoom-tele) - I gather that is ok.

-----------------

However, In the TW8200 manual (also compares the tw9200, it says under 'Signal Aspect' (select) Auto, Normal, Full, Zoom, Anamorphic Wide, Horizontal squeeze.

(But only the tw9200 supports Anamorphic wide and horizontal squeeze)

So this leaves say Full and Zoom for the tw8200, but I wonder if this then creates and unusual look when zooming to 2.35.1 (e.g. long/wide heads).

This is so hard !!!

Edited by doobie1

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The TW8200 will be fine for your screen and throw distance for both 16:9 and scope material.

When setting up use lens shift to get the image square on the screen - avoid keystone adjustments.

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Thanks Quark, that sounds good, but then I just read the following from Soundandvision.com.

They reviewed the 5030BUe which I think is the same as the TW8200 and it says.....

"One thing worth noting here is that the 5030BUe lacks an anamorphic stretch mode that would allow the projector to be used in a constant image height setup with an external anamorphic lens / 2.35:1 screen",

This is what confuses me, where the above says it want be any good for my 2.35:1 (scope) screen, but on the other hand you feel it will be ok.

Don't get me wrong that I don't appreciate your thoughts, because I do, but I must make sure the TW8200 will perform properly on my screen before spending $2.5K - which is already $1k over my original budget and I can't go any higher. (If the unit doesn't do the job, I'm back to square one).

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It's ok, you're not using an anamorphic lens. Anamorphic stretch is a mode in the remote that allows you to stretch the cinemascope movie/image vertically, so the black bars disappear. but now everyone on screen looks tall and skinny. They then slide the anamorphic lens into place which stretches the picture left and right to make the image look normal again. It's now in cinemascope and filling the entire scope screen with no black bars.

The way you are doing it called 'zooming', same result, different way of doing it. With yours, when you go from watching a 16:9 movie to a cinemascope movie, you will use the projector zoom ring to enlarge the cinemascope movie so it fills your cinemascope screen. the black bars are still there but you're zooming them out of the screen area so you don't seee them, they will be absorbed by the black frame on your screen and part of them will hit the wall. End result is you're filling the entire cinemascope screen with 'active' picture.

You will use about 35% of the projectors available zoom for 16:9 material, plenty of room there and when you zoom the picture out for the scope movies you will use 80% of the projectors available zoom.

It will work fine.

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As Oztheatre mentioned, you're not using an A-lens, so the lack of support for this is not an issue.

There are three ways to fill a scope screen:

  1. Buy a high end projector with native cinemascope resolution (we're talking megabucks here - not aware of any DTV members doing this).
  2. Use an anamorphic lens and a projector that supports this (this is how my set-up works).
  3. Zoom between aspect ratios - this is how your set-up will work (and probably how the majority of members here running scope screens do it).

No need for all the worrying.

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