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Jvc Dla-X500Rbe Ceiling Mount Advice

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I have the JVC DLA-X500RBE projector, it is very heavy and weighs about 15kg!

Is it too heavy to mount on ceiling?

I am thinking of getting the professionals to do the installation. What brand of mounting bracket should I buy?

Also I am getting the HDMI cables from eBay, is it better to go with expensive cables?

I am thinking of installing it between 6-7m from the screen. Is this the correct distance? I tested it last night on the floor from that distance and the picture seems great from that distance.

I have been recommended Screen Technics Interfit Mount, are there other options?

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Not too heavy at all. You need the peerless universal geared projector mount.

How long is the room? Where are you seated? I would mount it closer as the image will be dimmer the further back you go.

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It's not too heavy, you just need to mount it to something structural. Assuming you have access to the roof space, install one or more pieces of 18mm plywood against the plaster between your rafters. Use decent screws and plenty of right angle brackets to secure the plywood to the rafters. If you don't have access to the roof space, you'll need to remove some plaster (best to use a stud finder so you can cut along the rafters).

The best mount is a Peerless PRG-UNV. It has a quick release mechanism (much easier to join the heavy projector to the mount) and more importantly, has adjustment knobs to finely align the projector (much easier than loosening bolts and trying to align a few fractions of a mm at a time). You'll probably need a pole extension with it - exact length will depend on ceiling height and screen height / size / distance. Peerless mounts are usually much more affordable to purchase on Amazon or B&H Photo, even after shipping costs.

For longer HDMI cable runs you're best buying decent quality, but without getting ripped off. For runs up to 15m a HDMI cable from EzyHDCables or TCC will be fine (always test using the player and projector before installing, just in case). For runs over 15m you'll be safer looking at HDMI/Cat extenders.

The distance you mount from the screen is dependent on your screen size. You can use the calculator here to run the numbers. For example, with a 120" 16:9 screen, you can mount between 3.6m and 7.4m. Mounting closer in the throw range gives better brightness, so you'll get longer useful lamp life. Mounting further back gives slightly slightly improved contrast. The optics tend to be sharpest around the middle of the throw range, but probably not a big issue with the X500. I'd suggest mounting relatively close, but not at the minimum throw. Note that while the calculator is accurate for throw distances, is seems to be highly optimistic of the brightness of recent JVC models.

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I don't know where that came from, 'mounting the projector further back improves contrast'.. I now don't see how? All it can do is dim the image overall, might make the blacks blacker but everything else dims with it too.

Seems to be about a 30% drop in brightness from min to max zoom according to the PJ central calculators.. not sure if that's accurate though.. maybe not?

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Not too heavy at all. You need the peerless universal geared projector mount.

How long is the room? Where are you seated? I would mount it closer as the image will be dimmer the further back you go.

I am putting it in my living room, the whole area will be at least 10 meters length wise.

Peerless Universal Geared Projector Mount, is this available in Australia?

Edited by here2rock

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It's not too heavy, you just need to mount it to something structural. Assuming you have access to the roof space, install one or more pieces of 18mm plywood against the plaster between your rafters. Use decent screws and plenty of right angle brackets to secure the plywood to the rafters. If you don't have access to the roof space, you'll need to remove some plaster (best to use a stud finder so you can cut along the rafters).

Great Ideas, then mount the bracket to the plaster, I guess you still want to secure it against rafters but extra plywood gives you some added stability.

The best mount is a Peerless PRG-UNV. It has a quick release mechanism (much easier to join the heavy projector to the mount) and more importantly, has adjustment knobs to finely align the projector (much easier than loosening bolts and trying to align a few fractions of a mm at a time). You'll probably need a pole extension with it - exact length will depend on ceiling height and screen height / size / distance. Peerless mounts are usually much more affordable to purchase on Amazon or B&H Photo, even after shipping costs.

Ok, will do. Is there one suitable for mine JVC DLAX500?

For longer HDMI cable runs you're best buying decent quality, but without getting ripped off. For runs up to 15m a HDMI cable from EzyHDCables or TCC will be fine (always test using the player and projector before installing, just in case). For runs over 15m you'll be safer looking at HDMI/Cat extenders.

I think 15 meters should be enough for a straight run. How much should I be looking to spend on these wires?

The distance you mount from the screen is dependent on your screen size. You can use the calculator here to run the numbers. For example, with a 120" 16:9 screen, you can mount between 3.6m and 7.4m. Mounting closer in the throw range gives better brightness, so you'll get longer useful lamp life. Mounting further back gives slightly slightly improved contrast. The optics tend to be sharpest around the middle of the throw range, but probably not a big issue with the X500. I'd suggest mounting relatively close, but not at the minimum throw. Note that while the calculator is accurate for throw distances, is seems to be highly optimistic of the brightness of recent JVC models.

I have not used the calculator before but I think I am still OK with 7 meters distance. Is this the sweet sport for the JVC DLA-500? The picture looked great even on bare wall.

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Here2rock, can't advise on the mounting distance without a screen size. If 120" 16:9, I'd suggest no further back than 5m.

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I am projecting straight on the wall, I get a decent quality without putting up a dedicated screen. I am looking around 130-150", 2.35:1.

Can you guys recommend a good installer in Sydney?

Edited by here2rock

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OK sounds like you'll need to zoom between aspect ratios when projecting 16:9 material on your scope screen. Agree, best to get an experienced installer involved, as zooming complicates things. Sorry, I don't know anyone local to you.

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I have short listed two brackets, peerless universal geared projector mount as above and Screen Technics Interfit Bracket here:

http://www.screentechnics.com.au/screen-technics-products/view-product.php?v=44

Can someone with experience tell me the pros and cons of each bracket?

Edited by here2rock

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OK sounds like you'll need to zoom between aspect ratios when projecting 16:9 material on your scope screen. Agree, best to get an experienced installer involved, as zooming complicates things. Sorry, I don't know anyone local to you.

I should have mentioned that the throw distance parameters will be much tighter when zooming. Don't lock into a mounting point until you have agreed screen size and ensured the installer understands you need to zoom between aspect ratios (not all installers are going to be up to be up to speed on the issues with zooming). Check back here if you need advice.

I have short listed two brackets, peerless universal geared projector mount as above and Screen Technics Interfit Bracket here:

http://www.screentechnics.com.au/screen-technics-products/view-product.php?v=44

Can someone with experience tell me the pros and cons of each bracket?

The ball joint mount on the Screen Technics is better suited to rough and ready commercial installations where keystone adjustments will be used - it an inferior mount. Using keystone on an X500 would be like using retread crossply tyres on a Porsche Turbo.

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Quark now I am very confused the importance of the exact mounting position. I thought both these brackets had a 360 degree turn so you could place both of these bracket at a slight angle as long as your distance from the screen is the recommended throw for this projector which I think is within 6-6.5 meters.

To clarify do you think the screen technics is the inferior of the two brackets?

Just to clarify on the strength of the mount, how is the Peerless Universal Geared Projector Mount fitted on the ceiling, just the screws from the bottom of the plate? Is there a safety mechanism on the other side of the ceiling, like the optional 50MM TRUSS MOUNT BASEPLATE for the Screen Technics bracket shown here on the second page?

http://www.screentechnics.com.au/media/pdfs/948.pdf

Is there a second security measure with the Peerless Universal Geared Projector Mount?

Edited by here2rock

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Quark now I am very confused the importance of the exact mounting position. I thought both these brackets had a 360 degree turn so you could place both of these bracket at a slight angle as long as your distance from the screen is the recommended throw for this projector which I think is within 6-6.5 meters.

To clarify do you think the screen technics is the inferior of the two brackets?

Just to clarify on the strength of the mount, how is the Peerless Universal Geared Projector Mount fitted on the ceiling, just the screws from the bottom of the plate? Is there a safety mechanism on the other side of the ceiling, like the optional 50MM TRUSS MOUNT BASEPLATE for the Screen Technics bracket shown here on the second page?

http://www.screentechnics.com.au/media/pdfs/948.pdf

Is there a second security measure with the Peerless Universal Geared Projector Mount?

The importance of the exact mounting position when using a 'scope screen without an anamorphic lens (i.e. zooming) is that you need to have the throw distance in a range that will suit both 'scope and 16:9 viewing. For example when watching 16:9 material on a 130" 'scope screen you will zoom down to the equivalent of a 103" 16:9 image using the lens memory on the X500. It will be easy to mount at the wrong distance and end up with the 16:9 image spilling over the top and bottom of your 'scope screen.

When you talk of angling the bracket you're going down the wrong track - this will require keystone adjustments, which are likely to introduce artefacts in motion processing as it consumes image processing power. Keystone is for "cheap and cheerful" budget projectors. You use lens shift in a good HT projector like the X500. With this the aim is to have the projector dead level and the centre line at right angles to the screen (this is why a mount with a balljoint is cr@p, as the adjustment will always be coarse and can't provide the fine adjustment of a geared mount). The projector's lens shift moves the image horizontally and/or vertically. It's best to avoid horizontal lens shift if you can, by having the projector dead centre in line with the screen - the lens will always be optimised to the centre line, plus you lose some vertical lens shift when you use horizontal lens shift.

The Peerless mount doesn't offer a backing plate - it isn't needed if decent bolts are used to decent backing e.g. 18mm plywood.

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Thank you Chopsus. This bracket looks different to the universal bracket above. Is the JVC X35 about the same in size and weight as the DLAX500? I am thinking probably heavier?

It looks like the kind of bracket I was looking for. You mentioned that the bracket sits between the two beams? But if the distance is not the same as the bracket?

I am comfortable with the distance of about 6 meters or a touch more as I did some tests. Anyway I normally watch it night time with all lights off so the lighting is not going to be an issue.

Thanks Quark some very important installation notes, I will keep them in mind. You mentioned the importance of not having horizontal lens shift, is this the reason you get a jerky picture on rare occasions. I noticed this when I had it running on a edge of my temporary viewing area.

As I mentioned area is large enough to shift the sitting area (as I am not installing the screen yet) but I will still try to install in the centre of the wall as you pointed out, so thank you.

Quark do you recommend the Peerless Universal Bracket Over the Chopsus's recommendation?

Edited by here2rock

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If you want a 150 scope you need to have the projectors lens at 5.10 metres from the screen, this will give you enough zoom to fill a 150 scope image plus overscan/margin of error.

5.10 metres will also do everything from 130 to 150 scope.

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Thanks Chopsus. You have explained it very well. Do you have a pic of your installation?

I am reading the instructions from the manufacturer and seem very confusing:

https://www.peerless-av.com/en-us/professional/products/PRG-JVC-DLA

I am looking at page 5 where they have used two Phillips hex head screws.

Is it the same product as you mentioned above?

Edited by here2rock

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You cannot get higher native contrast with the projector further back, all you get is a dimmer image, you cannot cheat the physics of light. The only way to improve the contrast is darken the room and set up the projector accordingly.

5.10 metres is where you need it. If you want to go 6 metres then the image will be a further 15% dimmer again zooming out to 150" scope size.

You will use 92% of the zoom at 5.10 metres for 150 scope but only 63% of the zoom at 6.0 metres.

Up to you at the end of the day.

You don't need any plates with the JVC projector either. I've sold stacks of these mounts with the JVC's and not one plate ever needed.

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If you want a 150 scope you need to have the projectors lens at 5.10 metres from the screen, this will give you enough zoom to fill a 150 scope image plus overscan/margin of error.

5.10 metres will also do everything from 130 to 150 scope.

I am not sure if I am using the calculator correctly but 5.1 metres throw give me 119" scope and 126" 16:9.

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Thanks for those pics.

Am I correct to assume that basically the mount and installation procedure is the same in the both cases but only difference being the plate made for JVC instead of an Universal Spider?

Edited by here2rock

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I am not sure if I am using the calculator correctly but 5.1 metres throw give me 119" scope and 126" 16:9.

You have to leave the calculator on 16:9 as you're zooming, you are still throwing a 16:9 picture.

5.1 metres (all you need to do is look at the image width in cm) you have at min zoom you get 182cm wide image and at max zoom you get 364cm wide image which means 150 scope is OK at 5.1 metres and zooming down the 16:9 version you come down to about a 120 inch 16:9 screen which brings the zoom down to 45% of the amount you can use. You're free however, if not using a screen to make the 16:9 images larger than that too. your call.

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You will need to secure it within the roof cavity with four bolts that pass through the Peerless mount, into the ceiling, then through a beam/plank I installed that sits across the other roof trusses/beams. As long as it is strong enough to hold your weight, it will hold the PJ..

Having read the manufacturer's manual with care, the mount only has 2 holes, you mentioned 4 bolts.

The plank/beam used to form H shape, is that in flush with the plaster/gyprock secure with some sort of square joint with trusses or does in sit on top of trusses in which case you will need a fairly long bolt? I would really like to see the top view of the proposed H shape.

Edited by here2rock

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Thank you Chopsus. This bracket looks different to the universal bracket above. Is the JVC X35 about the same in size and weight as the DLAX500? I am thinking probably heavier?

It looks like the kind of bracket I was looking for. You mentioned that the bracket sits between the two beams? But if the distance is not the same as the bracket?

I am comfortable with the distance of about 6 meters or a touch more as I did some tests. Anyway I normally watch it night time with all lights off so the lighting is not going to be an issue.

Thanks Quark some very important installation notes, I will keep them in mind. You mentioned the importance of not having horizontal lens shift, is this the reason you get a jerky picture on rare occasions. I noticed this when I had it running on a edge of my temporary viewing area.

As I mentioned area is large enough to shift the sitting area (as I am not installing the screen yet) but I will still try to install in the centre of the wall as you pointed out, so thank you.

Quark do you recommend the Peerless Universal Bracket Over the Chopsus's recommendation?

Horizontal lens shift won't contribute to picture jerkiness. When watching film-based material you tend to get some jitter as there are only 24 frames per second - this is not a high enough rate for motion to appear smooth. Motion interpolation systems can smooth this, but most are best on low settings, as they can bring their own artefacts (typically blocks of colour and/or overly smoothed cartoon like effects etc). You can also get judder when the source material and projector are not operating at the same refresh rate, but that's another story.

I think Chops has explained that the JVC plate makes it simpler than balancing with the spider arrangement. The rest of the mount is basically the same, so take your choice.

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You have to leave the calculator on 16:9 as you're zooming, you are still throwing a 16:9 picture.

5.1 metres (all you need to do is look at the image width in cm) you have at min zoom you get 182cm wide image and at max zoom you get 364cm wide image which means 150 scope is OK at 5.1 metres and zooming down the 16:9 version you come down to about a 120 inch 16:9 screen which brings the zoom down to 45% of the amount you can use. You're free however, if not using a screen to make the 16:9 images larger than that too. your call.

I am not getting the same numbers as you are, which is most likely not doing something correct:

https://app.box.com/s/jwmrvpmvwzck0uqbx1yb

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You cannot get higher native contrast with the projector further back, all you get is a dimmer image, you cannot cheat the physics of light. The only way to improve the contrast is darken the room and set up the projector accordingly.

Hi Rich,

Agree darkening the room and setting up the projector are the most important factors. The slight increase in contrast on longer throws comes from a slight reduction in internal reflections. I personally put more priority on a brighter image and/or longer effective lamp life.

At the image sizes here2rock has since mentioned he is considering, agree maximum brightness should be the first consideration.

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