franin Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 What issues are you having with the SPR 16ei? No issues at all just asking the question wether it's better to have each sub in its own GPO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodricj Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I don't plug anything directly to the wall GPO, except for the black box that everything else connects to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddhamus Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Plug it all into the one and as I have said unless you draw more than 10 amps (I doubt most would) then there is no problem... Just because something is rated at 8amps doesn't mean it draws that 100% of the time, they draw bugger all most of the time in many setups at levels that people go deaf at. You are more likely to melt the cable from the power pole to your house or meter to fuse box by turning EVERYTHING on (stove tops, oven, kettle, aircons....etc etc) in the house for extended periods of time than damaging the internal wiring by current draw from your HT! I understand many of you are trying to justify your actions but these things are simply not required. If there was a "like" button, I would seriously like this post . Good work............sometimes ppl do tend to over complicate things lol. Never had one problem with my setup and Im not the only one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sero Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Yeah budd if it's under the rating it's fine.. If you are running actives all round and 4 subs you would have a problem. Also most people don't have dedicated circuits, so every other appliance in your house is running.. If you play at reference and the mrs decides to put on her hair dryer or boil the kettle you can overload quite easy with only 1 power circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddhamus Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) Yeah budd if it's under the rating it's fine.. If you are running actives all round and 4 subs you would have a problem. Also most people don't have dedicated circuits, so every other appliance in your house is running.. If you play at reference and the mrs decides to put on her hair dryer or boil the kettle you can overload quite easy with only 1 power circuit. Ahh fair enough....previously we were in a small house and we had the oven and washing machine and no problem's with running my system over reference ...but the new house that we are building is going to have a lot of things in it plus our family is growing, so more chance of things turning off and stuffing up..............so I decided to install a 3 phase power pit from powercor, it was expensive but thought it's better to do it now rather than later Edited October 1, 2014 by buddhamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjc Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 My old house that I own had only a 40amp breaker (and copper to suit) at the power pole. The appliances in my house were miles over that but even so I would have had to run everything for a decent period of time to make that circuit explode which it has never done. A good friend who works for Ergon upgraded my main line to house up to 80amps with new alloy wire to suit now but I still have to upgrade my existing 6mm main line from circuit box to meters. I still doubt even with all active speakers and subs you would have a problem as current draw from speakers simply isn't that much and not constant during a movie. I don't own a clamp so I can't test amps through the house but will see if I can borrow one to test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodricj Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 My installation would be bigger than most (power consumption wise), and I never go over 10 amps, even in full flight. So a single standard GPO should suffice for most applications, but it's how you divide up that single power point into the many which is important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spero D. Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 No issues at all just asking the question wether it's better to have each sub in its own GPO. I thought you mentioned it the past it used to trip or turn off under certain circumstances? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franin Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 I thought you mentioned it the past it used to trip or turn off under certain circumstances? That's awhile ago That was with the furman because it was shutting off due to high voltages we were getting over here in my area. It became annoying as I always going back and forth turning it on. So I had to take it in too simply Hifi and get them to adjust it to be able to accept higher voltages. Just to give you an idea most times I'm getting a reading of 255v but sometimes up too 257v. I had to call western power and the guy who came out didnt care much there was nothing much he could do. But all good now ( touch wood ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodricj Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 .... Just to give you an idea most times I'm getting a reading of 255v but sometimes up too 257v. I had to call western power and the guy who came out didnt care much there was nothing much he could do. yep, that's Perth. All the more reason to have a black box bolted to the wall GPO to throttle the incoming mains back to a constant 230 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franin Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 yep, that's Perth. All the more reason to have a black box bolted to the wall GPO to throttle the incoming mains back to a constant 230 volts. What is a black box beejay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodricj Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Any one of the PS Audio Power Plants will do the job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sero Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 That's what I use my apc smart ups for.. It's also pure sign wave and 1500Va. I have 1 in the ht room, 1 in lounge room and one in the office.. Not only does it output pure 240v it also seamlessly switches over the battery supply and shuts down all my computers automatically if the power goes out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franin Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 That's what I use my apc smart ups for.. It's also pure sign wave and 1500Va. I have 1 in the ht room, 1 in lounge room and one in the office.. Not only does it output pure 240v it also seamlessly switches over the battery supply and shuts down all my computers automatically if the power goes out Yes I have 2 online UPS as well in the family area and games room. No issues when there is a power outage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodricj Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Yes I have 2 online UPS as well in the family area and games room. No issues when there is a power outage Yep, me to. I just happen to have a brand new never opened PS Audio PowerPack Mk2 UPS available for sale. $1000 + delivery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddhamus Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) That's what I use my apc smart ups for.. It's also pure sign wave and 1500Va. I have 1 in the ht room, 1 in lounge room and one in the office.. Not only does it output pure 240v it also seamlessly switches over the battery supply and shuts down all my computers automatically if the power goes out HTPC can you link me to place where I can purchase a similar or same unit as yours....Ive been meaning to add one for my HT and my study room which features two computers and a NAS. It's cool that it can power all the units off as soon as it switches to battery mode..........NICE! You can PM me Edited October 5, 2014 by buddhamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACCA350 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 HTPC can you link me to place where I can purchase a similar or same unit as yours....Ive been meaning to add one for my HT and my study room which features two computers and a NAS. It's cool that it can power all the units off as soon as it switches to battery mode..........NICE! You can PM me Got one of these covering my Nas, PC and wifi cable modemhttp://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_1120&products_id=22039 Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sero Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Wow Macca that is really cheap for a pure sign wave ups. The cheapest I have seen! A lot of good pc power supplies need pure sign wave otherwise u can blow the power supply! Apc are world renowned for their ups machines I have used them for 10 years so I trust them! http://apcups.com.au/category/1630/apc-smartups/ There is also the XL range which is rack mountable. You just plug your ups into your PC via USB and set up the power options. You can shutdown after 5 minutes on battery ect. The other components like bluray player and projector turn off when the battery runs out or if I'm home when the power goes out allows me to shut them off normally. There are ups calculators so you can work out your load and how long you want your battery to last. 1500va is like 20-30mins on my setup which is plenty. Again I don't plug in my subs or avr/pre pro. If you don't want to spend a grand on an apc there are plenty of used ones on eBay! Normally around $200-300 mark , they don't come with cables or software though. I don't use the software most of the options are under windows power settings anyway. You can buy the cables on eBay or Jaycar they give you 6 months warranty on the batteries . I got 2 years out of one before I had to buy a new battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jst01 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I blew a JL Audio F113 power supply not long ago (sub was about 5 years old). They're about $700 to get fixed. I now run a Furman power conditioner on my subs (now I have twin submersives). Not so much for the conditioning but because it has voltage clamping and brown-outs don't cause damage to the power supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franin Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) I blew a JL Audio F113 power supply not long ago (sub was about 5 years old). They're about $700 to get fixed. I now run a Furman power conditioner on my subs (now I have twin submersives). Not so much for the conditioning but because it has voltage clamping and brown-outs don't cause damage to the power supply.Mine was the capicotor on both of my Jl audio Fathoms plugged still plugged into a Furman SPR16ei Voltage regulator. I got them replaced for better ones ( they meant to withstand a more higher voltage I'm not sure exactly how much ). Apparently the ones come from the JL AUDIO factory are limited at 230v. Though I only paid $300 for each Sub Edited November 4, 2014 by Franin1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jst01 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hi Franin, It's interesting that your Fathoms went even while plugged in to your Furman. I've lost a few power supplies on different devices here, and a CBus 8-channel dimmer. The power here tends to fluctuate between 240 and 255V, but I find it is the brown-outs, which seem to occur with most storms, that seem to knock the equipment around. Every few months or so, I notice some of my protection gear has kicked in as a result of a large voltage drop. My Panasonic plasma has handled it well though. Over 10 years, touch-wood, and not a problem without any protection. Cheers, Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franin Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hi Jamie I was actually surprised myself but some capacitors generally have different life span I was told. I guess the ones in the fathoms directly from USA they just put the standard capacitors for us when converting to 240v. I was told no voltage regulator can stop a capacitor from dying. Don't get me wrong the furman has been great for keeping the voltage at 230v as yourself we also get voltage fluctuation here in Perth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westom Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi Jamie I was actually surprised myself but some capacitors generally have different life span I was told. . Plenty will say many things. But the fewer who actually talk reality say it with numbers. Numbers of the Furman do not claim to protect hardware. For example, those voltage variations are routinely made irrelevant by what is already inside all electronics. Anomalies that can cause damage are tyically microsecond events. Too fast for the Furman to even see. And only made irrelvent by completely different devices that are found in all facilities that cannot have damage. All appliances already contain robust protection. Your concern is for an anomaly that occurs maybe once every seven years. That can overwhelm that existing protection. Nothing adjacent to the appliance even claims to protect from that type of anomaly. Which is why all who might recommend it never post numbers. Your concern is an anomaly that may be hundreds of thousands of joules. How many joules does the Furman claim to absorb? Probably near zero. A number that is just above zero so that they can claim 100% transient protection. They know the majority of eyes will glaze over with numbers. Those are the many who recommend bogus solutions. Most electronic failures are due to manufacturing defects. One famous case were electrolytic capacitors with counterfeit electrolyete. These failed many years later. The naive wanted to blame surges because that is what advertising claims. Reality was only seen by the fewer who analyze a failure before making any conclusion. And that always means hard numbers. You have no reason to believe the Furman protects hardware. May have even seen an example of that mythical protection. Hardware protection comes from many other companies with superior reputations including Square D, Clipsal, ABB, General Electric, Ditek, Polyphaser, Syscom, Intermatic, Eaton (Cutler-Hammer), Siemens, and other manufacturers who also make the electrical equipment in your house that must never fail. For example, effective surge protection means direct lightning strikes do not even damage the protector. And with numbers that say why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jst01 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks westom, I have 3 Clipsal surge protectors on the 3 phases in my house and had ABB ones in my previous home. I've had a lot of power issues in this current house (built from new and only been in 6 years) and very few in the previous house. I'm certainly no expert in power protection, but I've had way more power supplies die in this house compared to anywhere else I've lived. I've also lost a $$$ Clipsal CBus dimmer module and two $$$ DLT panels at different times (the panels run on low voltage), all supposedly protected by surge protectors so I'm not convinced Clipsal's products are crash hot. Cheers, Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westom Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) I have 3 Clipsal surge protectors on the 3 phases in my house and had ABB ones in my previous home. I've had a lot of power issues in this current house (built from new and only been in 6 years) and very few in the previous house. Surges that do damage can be hundreds of thousands of joules. If a protector is adjacent to appliances, then it must somehow block that current or absorb that energy. How many joules did that protector claim to absorb? Clipsal makes many products. That does not mean all Clipsal products do protection. Again, without numbers, then you do not know if that item (called a protector) does protection. No protector does protection. For example, best protection on cable is a hardwire that connects cable low impedance (ie less than 3 meters) to single point earth ground. Because protection always means knowing where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Some incoming wires (ie telephone, AC electric) cannot connect direct to earth. So a protector only does what a hardwire does better. A protector does not do protection. A protector only connects to what does protection. Protection is where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. If a protector is adjacent to an appliance, then it has no low impedance earth ground connection. It does not claim to protect from typically destructive surges. Its two centimeter part with somehow block what three kilometers of sky could not? It claims to absorb how many joules? Hundreds? A protector too close to appliances and too far from earth ground can sometimes make appliance damage easier. Manufacturers of protectors that make an always required and essential connection to earth were listed previously. Furman is clearly not on that list. The expression is single point earth ground. All four words have electrical significance. Did they properly earth your house? Earthing must both meet and exceed safety codes. Edited November 11, 2014 by westom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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