Jvc X35/x55/x75/x95 Owners Thread

[Belmondo]

G'day Guys,

My first post here. I have just bought a JVC X75 from a fellow forumite for my soon to be built ht room in my soon to be built house.

I would like your advice on a couple of points, I'm a newbie to projection:

My room will be 4 x5 mtrs with a 2700 ceiling and projecting onto the 4 mtr wall,will a 130" screen suit this?

There is a deal on with TCC and their 130" screen is $530 or would it be better to buy Markybee's Screen Technics screen for $800?

Is there a projector mount that would suit best?

All and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Bruce.

[Quark]

130" is pushing the limits of the X75 - you'll need a fully light controlled room to get a good picture and may have to replace the lamp before the nominal end of life if you like a bright image. Also, mount near the minimum throw distance to maximise brightness.

Both are good screens. Looks like the ST has a gain of 1.0 and the TCC has a gain of 1.1 but is actually 133", so probably much of a muchness in terms of image brightness.

For the 130" the minimum throw is ~4.0m - after adding in a little margin for error say 4.3m from lens to screen. For 133" the minimum throw is 4.1m, but say 4.4m after allowing some margin. You can run the numbers here.

The best mounts are Peerless Precision geared mounts - easy to adjust finely with the gearing so you can align the image on your screen, as well as a quick release mechanism - see here (shorter/longer drops are available). Usually much cheaper even after shipping to buy from B&H Photo or Amazon than locally.

Edit: given the throw and the size of your room, you could always build a shelf on the back wall and mount there - wouldn't increase the throw distance much, especially with the 133" screen.

Edited August 1, 2015 by Quark

[Belmondo]

Thanks Quark,

So given the room size and projector do you think I would do better with a 120" screen. I'm not totally sure I'll be able to project onto a 130" screen given what you have written below.

Appreciate your Help.

Bruce.

130" is pushing the limits of the X75 - you'll need a fully light controlled room to get a good picture and may have to replace the lamp before the nominal end of life if you like a bright image. Also, mount near the minimum throw distance to maximise brightness.

Both are good screens. Looks like the ST has a gain of 1.0 and the TCC has a gain of 1.1 but is actually 133", so probably much of a muchness in terms of image brightness.

For the 130" the minimum throw is ~4.0m - after adding in a little margin for error say 4.3m from lens to screen. For 133" the minimum throw is 4.1m, but say 4.4m after allowing some margin. You can run the numbers here.

The best mounts are Peerless Precision geared mounts - easy to adjust finely with the gearing so you can align the image on your screen, as well as a quick release mechanism - see here (shorter/longer drops are available). Usually much cheaper even after shipping to buy from B&H Photo or Amazon than locally.

Edit: given the throw and the size of your room, you could always build a shelf on the back wall and mount there - wouldn't increase the throw distance much, especially with the 133" screen.

The room will have good light control

[Quark]

I'm a sucker for a big screen, so would probably still go 130" if it was me. If you want 3D, then 120" or smaller.

Edit: note, the calculator I linked to does overstate the JVC projectors' brightness.

Edited August 2, 2015 by Quark

[Belmondo]

Has anyone used the x75 with a 130" screen?

[Quark]

Has anyone used the x75 with a 130" screen?

Member bbar zoomed an X75 to a 122" scope screen (similar area involved once you factor in the black bars top and bottom). Can't recall what the gain was - expect ~1.2.

[dreamz]

I use an x55 with a 130" ST scope screen zoom in to avoid the black bars so its like a 140" projection. Room is 4x5.2. As quark said go for the bigger screen. My preference would be the ST screen over TCC

[Belmondo]

Thanks Fellas,

Pure novice here.....could you explain to me how these ratios work?

Quark has written that I would need 4.1- 4.3 mtrs throw to use a 130" screen....given that I only have 4 mtrs. max....it doesn't make sense that I can utilise 130" of screen. Can you help me on this....it does not compute.

Again thanks,

Bruce

[Jliang70]

Thanks Fellas,

Pure novice here.....could you explain to me how these ratios work?

Quark has written that I would need 4.1- 4.3 mtrs throw to use a 130" screen....given that I only have 4 mtrs. max....it doesn't make sense that I can utilise 130" of screen. Can you help me on this....it does not compute.

Again thanks,

Bruce

Very easy, just use the calculating tools in www.projectorcentral.com, at around 4 m you can project a 128 inch screen.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-X55R-projection-calculator-pro.htm

[Quark]

Thanks Fellas,

Pure novice here.....could you explain to me how these ratios work?

Quark has written that I would need 4.1- 4.3 mtrs throw to use a 130" screen....given that I only have 4 mtrs. max....it doesn't make sense that I can utilise 130" of screen. Can you help me on this....it does not compute.

Again thanks,

Bruce

If you're projecting onto the 4m wide wall of a 4m x 5m room, not sure what the issue is.

[Belmondo]

Ok, I really don't understand. Maybe when I physically install it things will change...

[Quark]

Ok, I really don't understand. Maybe when I physically install it things will change...

You should be throwing the image down the 5m length of the room if you're projecting onto the 4m wide wall. Your throw distance will be the distance from the front of the projector to the screen. If you mount on a shelf at the back of the room the throw distance will be 5m less the depth of the projector (472mm), plus say another 100mm behind for cable access (total 572mm). So the throw is 5000mm minus 572mm = 4428mm = 4.43m approx.

Just make sure the builder stays to the plan with the room size - have seen them muck up before now.

Don't forget to have a power point installed for the projector, plus run conduit and cables. For the long HDMI cable I'd recommend adding a Cat6 cable or two for future proofing, plus a draw string in case you ever need to replace the cable (don't underestimate tradies ability to cut, plaster or otherwise damage cable ends). If roof mounting the projector, add some ~18mm plywood between the rafters flush with the back of the plaster where the projector mount will go (best attached with some long right angle brackets above). There is no way plaster toggles will safely hold an X75 (or any other projector IMO).

Edited August 2, 2015 by Quark

[Belmondo]

Ah, mea culpa!!!

Apologies, I've given the wrong details. Yes, my Ht is 4x5 mtrs. and I will be projecting onto the 5 mtr wall....not the 4 mtr wall .....as I said initially... So the max distance between screen and projector will be less than 4 mtrs.

If we could start again that would be really good...sorry!

Thanks Bruce

[Quark]

In that case you will be just able fill a 110" 16:9 screen if you mount at the back of the room. You may need a right angle connector for the HDMI cable to avoid a tight turn.

[sero]

What sort of hours are u guys getting out of a globe? And what aperture settings do you guys use as you put on more hours...

I have a fully light controlled batcave and in 2 years I have not noticed the lamp dimming yet..

I'm on 839 hours on my globe and lens aperture -8 and the picture looks like it did when it was brand new.

Edited August 13, 2015 by HTPC-Guru

[dreamz]

Mine is a batcave expect ceiling white. Ecomode, lamp power -low, lens aperture - 0, less than 400hrs on the original lamp. I would love to know what settings others use and what are the recommended settings. 130" scope screen zoomed in, projector lens to screen is 4.3m, ceiling 13cm from ceiling to projector, 20cm from ceiling to center of the lens, screen is 40cm from the ceiling(ceiling to the border, so screen is actually 48cm down from ceiling, 69cm from the ground(77cm actual). Am i mounted the screen and projector in the right height and distance? Or can someone pls advice me the right measurements, room is 2.5m heigh, 4m wide and 5.2m in lenght. We sit close to the wall. Thanks

[mercury10]

Im on a 1000 hours.110 inch screen.Still using minus 13 on aperture for normal viewing low lamp.

3d i have the aperture fully open and sometimes 50-50 low to high lamp depending on movie.

Any brighter and i get a headache and my eyes feal like their burning.

Has dropped very little.

[mercury10]

Oh yeah semi batcave.

[dreamz]

Mine is a batcave expect ceiling white. Ecomode, lamp power -low, lens aperture - 0, less than 400hrs on the original lamp. I would love to know what settings others use and what are the recommended settings. 130" scope screen zoomed in, projector lens to screen is 4.3m, ceiling 13cm from ceiling to projector, 20cm from ceiling to center of the lens, screen is 40cm from the ceiling(ceiling to the border, so screen is actually 48cm down from ceiling, 69cm from the ground(77cm actual). Am i mounted the screen and projector in the right height and distance? Or can someone pls advice me the right measurements, room is 2.5m heigh, 4m wide and 5.2m in lenght. We sit close to the wall. Thanks

Any advice on this Quark ?

Looking forward to hear some valuable opinions.

Edited August 25, 2015 by Sub25

[Quark]

Any advice on this Quark ?

Looking forward to hear some valuable opinions.

You're at the minimum throw distance for that screen size if zooming, so you can't mount the projector closer. What's the gain on your screen? If around 1.0, you're at the screen size limit for the X55. May need to go up to full lamp power or consider an early lamp replacement if the fan noise on full lamp bugs you.

Screen height sounds OK to me, but YMMV - changes in lens shift don't make much difference to brightness.

I've just ordered an X500 for my set-up - 130" scope screen, 1.26 gain, 5.3m throw and an anamorphic lens. I expect to be changing lamps before their nominal end of life as I like a bright image.

[dreamz]

Screen gain is 1.1, what i can do to get a better/brighter picture apart from the full lamp power? Is moving the projector further back helps or only changing the screen to a smaller one helps? I see the brightness from a sony 40es at my mates place and jvc is nowhere near. Black is better in jvc but sony is like looking at an led screen where as jvc is plasma. I believe i am not getting the right brightness/darkness and color saturation out of it with my settings.

[Quark]

Moving the projector further back will reduce brightness.

You could replace the screen material with something with a slightly higher gain - I'd be wary of going over 1.3 unless you can see it first and make sure there's no hotspotting. Full lamp or a new lamp should make a big difference. Note, all lamps lose brightness as they age - powering on and off typically causes much more wear than actual hours running. If the cost of a new lamp bothers you, just buy a bare lamp and re-use the existing housing - I did this with my current projector and all good, just a few minutes extra work.

Painting the ceiling a dark colour will also help perceived brightness.

There does tend to be a trade-off between brightness and contrast/blacks. The Sonys go for lumens over contrast.

[Owen]

Screen gain is 1.1, what i can do to get a better/brighter picture apart from the full lamp power? Is moving the projector further back helps or only changing the screen to a smaller one helps? I see the brightness from a sony 40es at my mates place and jvc is nowhere near. Black is better in jvc but sony is like looking at an led screen where as jvc is plasma. I believe i am not getting the right brightness/darkness and color saturation out of it with my settings.

Do you really want to view an image that looks even remotely like a LED LCD??????????? Cant think of anything more objectionable myself.

Anyway, if you must have a brighter picture, (brighter doesn't mean better IMHO) open the iris all the way and if thats not enough engage full lamp power.

The dynamic iris function will tent to dim the image as well so it may be nesesary to disable it.

If you want MORE colour saturation just turn up the colour control, you can have as much as you want.

If you really want to burn your eyes buy a high gain screen 2.0 plus, they can more than double brightness and make your mates Sony look dull and still give you better blacks than the Sony can muster.

I'm viewing an X3 on a 100" screen with a gain of about 0.85, using low lamp power and the iris backed off about 30%, so it should be significantly dimmer that what you are watching and I dont want brighter even though its as easy as a few clicks on the remote. The Sony would be intolerable for me, WAY too bright with no way to dim it down and crappy blacks, which are vital for a "quality" image.

Edited August 25, 2015 by Owen

[Owen]

duplicate deleted

Edited August 25, 2015 by Owen

[dreamz]

The blacks are definitely better in jvc, but i see the whites are better in sony. I am not just talking about the brightness, i know too much brightness(reflected light form the screen) can hurt your eyes. For me the sony is bright but not reflecting anymore light than the jvc at the same level of brightness. May be its just my settings the picture looks a bit dull than compared to the sony, you feel it mostly when watching animation or sort off. I mean jvc is dull with good blacks where as sony has a life with better color and white/brightness, no matter how much color i increased in jvc its still dull because the lack of brightness/light. Its not a comparison between JVC to sony, could be just my jvc/settings as i havent seen any other jvc myself where as i see a few sony's. I will try to tweak a bit over this weekend and see how it goes.

Edited August 25, 2015 by Sub25