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petetherock

2012 Samsung E Series Tv Discussion

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Thanks everyone, I found a D8000 for abour 1000 less than the best I could get for the E series, wrangled out a 5 year warranty and got 4 extra pairs of the new 4100 goggles, so I have my 64" TV!

Will deliver and install later this week.

Fingers crossed, as I have an option for a E series if the D 8000 doesn't pan out.

Now, for some settings and info on the D8000!

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Calibrator disc does not discuss cell light so I assume this is a personal preference? Last night I watched swordfish BD with these settings and the light off; The colour tones to me look spot on. People actually look healthy and realistic.

I think the best way to adjust cell light is on the contrast adjustment test pattern, and adjust until the whites are "white enough", but not so much that it hurts your eyes at your normal viewing conditions.

I highly recommend Cinema Smooth, as reviews say the E series has better black levels when it's activated (the total opposite of previous series). You will need a Blu-ray player that can output to 1080p/24 (most do, including the PS3), and also while 24p content (eg. any Blu-ray movie) is being played for the mode to be available (otherwise it's greyed out). Better black levels and removes telecine judder (by displaying 24p content at 96 Hz instead of 60 Hz) - so there's no reason not to have it activated all the time. Even with the MLL rise in the previous series with CS on, it was still worth having on.

Edited by HTPCFreak

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How do I use these Aussie post gift cards to get 20% off? I have one with not much on it however, what do I need to do?

I want a D8000 but I fear I have left my run a little late. If I can get an E8000 for $2500 ish I would be stoked!

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Thanks everyone, I found a D8000 for abour 1000 less than the best I could get for the E series, wrangled out a 5 year warranty and got 4 extra pairs of the new 4100 goggles, so I have my 64" TV!

Will deliver and install later this week.

Fingers crossed, as I have an option for a E series if the D 8000 doesn't pan out.

Now, for some settings and info on the D8000!

Hi Pete,

Can you pm me if there are any more available and the location of the store ? Thanks for your help.

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I ran the AVS test disc, as well as a couple of others, including the old favourite THX test on the Star Wars DVDs, the Disney one on the Pixar Blu-rays. Here's the settings I ended up with (dim light viewing environment):

Mode: Movie

CS: On

Cell Light: 19

Contrast: 90

Brightness: 47

Sharpness: 0

Colour: 50 48 (see edit below)

Gamma: 0

And everything else off. So not too far away from the Cnet settings. The Cell light/contrast is really up to individual taste, how sensitive you are to light in your viewing environment, but the brightness can be easily set just by displaying a black image (the black bars on widescreen movies will do), and adjusting it until you don't see any dithering/dancing pixels - for me, this came at 45, although the AVS disc recommended 50 for my viewing environment, so the middle-ground 47 was chosen. For the AVS disc though, you really need to ensure your Blu-ray player settings are correct, especially on the PS3 (specifically, these settings), since otherwise the test patterns won't display properly.

Interestingly, I found that the "black image switch off" problem can be fixed by ensuring the brightness setting does not drop below 45. On the '2012' Blu-ray, for the starting and title sequence I mentioned above, at 45, the black image switch off problem goes away completely. But one setting down, at 44, and it's back, and the lower it is, the worse it is (or rather, the longer the screen seems to stay in "off mode" before switching on, so 44 is a fast flcker, but at 38, it's a longer flash of the screen). There's no need to go below 45 unless you want black crush, so I guess that's the switch off problem easily mitigated!

Edit: Colour setting changed to 48, after using RGB blue only mode. Will have to make the hue adjustments later.

Edited by HTPCFreak

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The Cell light/contrast is really up to individual taste, how sensitive you are to light in your viewing environment, but the brightness can be easily set just by displaying a black image (the black bars on widescreen movies will do), and adjusting it until you don't see any dithering/dancing pixels - for me, this came at 45, although the AVS disc recommended 50 for my viewing environment, so the middle-ground 47 was chosen. For the AVS disc though, you really need to ensure your Blu-ray player settings are correct, especially on the PS3 (specifically, these settings), since otherwise the test patterns won't display properly.

I have a Samsung BD-D6500 blu-ray player.

Interestingly, I found that the "black image switch off" problem can be fixed by ensuring the brightness setting does not drop below 45. On the '2012' Blu-ray, for the starting and title sequence I mentioned above, at 45, the black image switch off problem goes away completely. But one setting down, at 44, and it's back, and the lower it is, the worse it is (or rather, the longer the screen seems to stay in "off mode" before switching on, so 44 is a fast flcker, but at 38, it's a longer flash of the screen). There's no need to go below 45 unless you want black crush, so I guess that's the switch off problem easily mitigated!

That would explain why I hadn't really seen it as for the most part my brightness has been much higher.

I am going to plug in settings closer to Cnet and yours and see how it looks.

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The TV just notified me that a new firmware was available, downloaded and installed. Firmware versions says 1004 - wasn't that the version that came with the TV (or was that 1002)?

Edit: The TV downloaded, but didn't install the firmware, so it was placed into the "alternative firmware" section for later upgrading. Just did the upgrade to version 1008. Haven't noticed anything new, in fact, the settings didn't even reset.

I am going to plug in settings closer to Cnet and yours and see how it looks.

Just noticed that the TV did have a blue filter mode (in advanced -> RGB only mode), so was able to use the test pattern to make some basic colour adjustments - so the colour setting is now 48, instead of 50.

Edited by HTPCFreak

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A test disk or pattern will show you how high the contrast control can be set before clipping sets in, this is not the setting you use as the panel is being driven as hard as possible with that setting which risks burn in.

If you like or need to run contrast that high a Plasma was probably not a suitable purchase.

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A test disk or pattern will show you how high the contrast control can be set before clipping sets in, this is not the setting you use as the panel is being driven as hard as possible with that setting which risks burn in.

If you like or need to run contrast that high a Plasma was probably not a suitable purchase.

What sort of numbers are considered high too you? I am running mine at 76, Cnet calibrated to 95 and HTPCFreak is at 90

Thanks

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A test disk or pattern will show you how high the contrast control can be set before clipping sets in, this is not the setting you use as the panel is being driven as hard as possible with that setting which risks burn in.

If you like or need to run contrast that high a Plasma was probably not a suitable purchase.

So the Cnet professionally calibrated settings for dim room viewing isn't suitable for long term viewing without burn-in? Then why bother calibrating the TV?

With the AVS disc, I did not notice any significant clipping even with cell light and contrast cranked up to max. This is movie mode, so it's not the panel "driven as hard as possible" (that would be dynamic mode I suppose). But as I noted above, you really do need to adjust contrast/cell light to suit your viewing environment, basically to be bright enough, but not too bright as to cause eye strain, but not so dim where everything appears washed out.

Having watched a bit more Foxtel at my originally posted settings, it did appear to be a bit too bright for night viewing, so I've had to dial it down to 18 cell light and 87, which is pretty much identical to the setting I had on my old C7000 (which was then based on I thing d-nice's night mode settings, and similar to that a lot of other people were posting at that time). Will have to find time to actually watch a Blu-ray to re-adjust the cell light/contrast for that.

What is different from the C7000, I feel, is that the max settings (cell light 20, contrast 100) isn't as bright as it used to be, and some are saying Samsung has done this for compliance with energy saving standards, which probably explains why I couldn't get clipping to set in on the test patterns. Cnet's theory was that the lower "brightness" helps solve the brightness pop issue from last year's model. Cnet only managed to produce a max 30 fL reading in movie mode, lower than last year's D8000 and this year's Panasonics. So the 2012 Samsungs are not that bright (there's a "Smart TV" joke in there somewhere). The C7000's default movie mode cell light was at 15, whereas the default has been changed to 20 in this year's model (not that you should judge anything on the default settings, but it was interesting to find that Cnet's calibrated settings matched the default ones, something I thought was a bit weird at first).

I've also got a Pioneer plasma that I've been watching for 8 years that (still) seems a lot brighter (even with the contrast settings way down, and this is in a well lit environment), and no burn-in so far. It seems you have to do something ridiculous with these new plasmas to be able to get burn-in, at least in movie mode, since it appears they're putting in an upper limited on light output.

Edited by HTPCFreak

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Great info so far!

Has anyone seen any decent pricing on 60 inch yet? Would love the 64 inch, but would rather pay closer to $2k that $3k.

Edited by CraigusOz

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Why don't you purchase 20% off gift cards for the good guys at Australia post you can get the 64 e8000 for 2500 delivered.

You could get a 60inch for around $1900 delivered.

Edited by rogerp

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The TV just notified me that a new firmware was available, downloaded and installed. Firmware versions says 1004 - wasn't that the version that came with the TV (or was that 1002)?

Edit: The TV downloaded, but didn't install the firmware, so it was placed into the "alternative firmware" section for later upgrading. Just did the upgrade to version 1008. Haven't noticed anything new, in fact, the settings didn't even reset.

Tried to get the update just now, previous firmware is 001004 and new firmware is 001008. It got to about 70% complete and stopped. Message said file is not yet available on the server?

Currently up to 60% on my second attempt.

Nothing listed on the website to indicate it's available and when I clicked on live chat, it says it's currently unavailable and is only available until 8pm mon - fri (it's currenty 6:40pm on Wednesday).

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updated on my second attempt.

Lost my wireless connection after it rebooted but as soon as I searched for my network it located and connected me without the password (so it remembered something). My settings were definitely not saved in full, I was back to standard mode and noise filter was now active. Some items remained the same such as the basic picture settings but I would suggest you go over everything again to be sure.

Plugged in some new settings and watching The Negotiator blu-ray; If you have this film, watch the opening credits as it's got heaps of dark scenes and plenty of fading to black however some of it appears to be intentional by the director. It looks to have the same black switching effect that many have reported as part of it's actual make up.

Has anyone used a company called True Colour for calibration in Sydney? I am considering using them when I move into the new house. Listed as a dealer on the imagingscience site.

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Bit of an update (my complaints to be honest):

* smart apps that needed updates after firmware update include the camera and Skype. Main issue here is it just says updating in the top corner with no indication how long it will be meanwhile everything is frozen so you can't do anything but wait whilst the little screen in the other corner (approx 30cm x 25cm) has the last channel you were on playing.

* the background in the smart hub had changed to another background

* the hum, or electrical buzz seams to be getting louder. Set hasn't been turned on for 3 days and I have plugged in new settings with higher cell light but reduced brightness so not sure if this is playing a part. Would really love a 2nd opinion from an experienced owner but that's still too early. May need to go shopping and sample some others if on display now.

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The buzz on my set does get louder as light output increases on screen, so the higher cell light/contrast may cause a louder buzz (as do white screens, versus black ones). Even on a white screen with max settings, still can't really hear it over volume, and with volume off, only with my ear turned towards the TV. The buzz may get better or worse as time goes by though.

This is different to my old C7000 buzzer, in which the buzz was more or less constant regardless of what's on screen. I felt It got a tiny little bit better after the first 4 or 5 weeks, but maybe it's because I got used to it a bit more. I eventually got used to it so much that I stopped noticing it, even though it was always audible over volume. But yeah, it was quite annoying at first, mainly because I kept listening for it.

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Mine is the same, can only hear it when you focus on it or move close to the screen. My wife can't hear it basically and I am the deaf one supposedly haha.

I am probably reading too much about the buzzers of the past and subliminally making it more of an issue than it is. I just want to ensure I get value for money and a set that is performing as it should (enter jokes that it's a Samsung and it is)

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After watching more Foxtel, some more Blu-ray, and doing the colour and sharpness calibrations again on the AVS disc, here are the settings I've settled for (for dimmed light viewing at night):

Foxtel/FTA:

Mode: Movie

Cell Light: 17

Contrast: 86

Brightness: 47

Sharpness: 3

Colour: 48

Tint: G50/R50

Blu-ray:

Mode: Movie

Cell Light: 18

Contrast: 87

Brightness: 47

Sharpness: 2

Colour: 48

Tint: G50/R50

CS: On

Everything else at the default settings.

I've turned cell light/contrast a bit higher on Blu-ray to give it a bit more pop. Sharpness just a tad above 0. Tint was pretty good on the TV already at the default setting, just had to turn the colour down a bit.

Tested using some of my favourites Blu-ray scenes, including Planet Earth "Pole to Pole" chapter 3, Star Wars Episode III starting sequence (Battle of Coruscant), and a bit of Avatar. All looked fantastic, much better than I remember when I originally watched these on the 58C7000. The cell light/contrast setting may still need some tweaking, depending on day light viewing and such, but the TV is definitely bright enough at those settings (for those worried about reviews saying it's not as bright as before), and the better black levels gives an impression of better contrast, so there's less need for higher settings than before.

For the buzz, I noticed slide 2 of the basic AVS test patterns, the APL Clipping one, produced the loudest buzz, even more so than the White Clipping one.

Mine is the same, can only hear it when you focus on it or move close to the screen. My wife can't hear it basically and I am the deaf one supposedly haha.

I am probably reading too much about the buzzers of the past and subliminally making it more of an issue than it is. I just want to ensure I get value for money and a set that is performing as it should (enter jokes that it's a Samsung and it is)

If it really bothers you, then I would seriously consider another brand (or rather, the other brand: Panasonic). With the Samsung "buzz lottery", you're just likely to get a TV that has worse buzz, than one that's better. If you can't hear it over volume in your normal viewing positions (and with your head turned towards the TV), then that's probably a non buzzer by Samsung standards.

Edited by HTPCFreak

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F*#K seriosuly, everytime I go to smarthub, it updates and every single app needs an update after smart hub updates.......this is ridiculous. I have been updating for over an hour on a hard line connection that I hooked up to my router.

if it fails, it doesn't tell you. Whilst it's updating, you have no idea how long it will take or how far along you are...... Samsung need to sort this crap out.

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Still can't access the web browser; each time I access smart hub, I click on web browser and then it asks me to download the new version (11.4mb). I accept, it starts to update with no indication of progress and then after about 15mins it closes smart hub and returns to normal tv viewing.

Anyone have any ideas? Can you download the apps to a USB direct from the net and then install that way? A google search reveals nothing.

I belive it must be the samsung server. I am on Telstra cable net and have no issues with streaming and reguarly get fast download speeds. Right now I am using the same connection to view this site, watch news videos and no problem whilst the TV seems to be timing out.

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I don't have internet connected, so it's ok for me, but is the Samsung server Aussie / USA?

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Not sure, it doesn't give up that information freely on the TV. I am sure there would be a way of a hack to identify the IP of the server it is trying to reach.

At least it's only the amrt hub crap that's giving me issues. Normal panel duties are perfect :-)

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The browser "updating" delay was what I experienced when I used the browser for the first time - it took about 5 minutes for the browser to start. I did the same 11.4MB update just now, and it also finished in about 5 minutes, so perhaps the server was down last night.

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Trying again just now.

Went into domayne at Auburn today and have some prices for those looking for new model led/LCD

UA55ES7500M - $3984

UA55ES8000M - $4494

Both are on display, these are the ticketed prices (on sale) :-) includes free delivery and installation.

......still updating

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