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Options for diy low cost home theatre speakers?


wixy

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I'm thinking of putting together a diy 5.1 speaker system for a small to medium sized room, with low cost being an important factor (<$1k for parts preferred).

Just wondering if anyone can suggest some diy options for speakers?

The purpose would be for 100% movies and games.

Edited by wixy
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Well, depending on what size speakers you're willing to settle with, could go with either the CSS FR125SR, EL-70 or Mark Audio CHR-70 in small, simple 5-7L bass reflex enclosures and spend a bit on a nice 10-12" sub with a decent amp.

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That's quite a challenge. I'd probaby go for a simple 2 way design with a dome tweeter + midbass with 5 matching. With a slightly bigger budget perhaps a 2.5 way for the front speakers.

Some kits here:

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/Speaker-Building/Speakers.html

Another option, very simple Darcher audio > Hivi B3N - 4 per speaker gives 88 db sensitivity and reasonable output > $380 worth of drivers + shipping then a sub. Mounted on the wall you so don't lose any of that efficiency.

Or if up for the challenge of designing an xo, Jaycar

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CT2005&keywords=tweeter&form=KEYWORD

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CW2194&keywords=woofer&form=KEYWORD

$50 driver cost per speaker

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Don't wish to take the romance of DIY out of the equation but there's more than a few 5.1 packages out there for around that mark.....case in point is Eastwood HiFi clearing a few Mission speakers and some other bits and pieces. You could get 2 pairs of 760 bookies for $700, a 76C centre speaker for $290 and a Yamaha YST-SW216 sub for $200.....

But in the end...I'm with Earle. The FE107 can be had locally for $64 each from SpeakerComponents (Major Music)....a half dozen of these and a sheet of MDF later...

Edited by seano
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Thanks for the advice guys. A simple approach with full range drivers is certainly tempting, and having done a bit of reading online the CSS EL70 looks like it could be a winner.

The Jaycar drivers are also tempting for the price, but I don't know the first thing about crossover design. Where would I start?

Seano, thanks for the suggestion but having completed a couple of diy projects in the past, once you go diy you don't go back! :nana

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What Earle said,

They are simple to make, your local kitchen place will cut them accurately for you for bugger all,

They are efficient, means you will get good loud sound out of your HT receiver,

They will be accurate in producing sound,

They will integrate easily with any sub.

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I like the EL70 as well: Take a look at the box plans from Planet10 hi-fi at http://www.planet10-hifi.com/. I would like to build some of the micro-towers for EL70/CHR70 at some stage -- designs are towards the bottom on this page: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-markaudio.html

Zaph Audio's Hi-Vi mini's are another popular and very inexpensive option: http://zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html

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wixy,

Just watch with small full range drivers that you get decent efficiency. You tend to either get low efficiency or very low xmax. The Hivi I mentioned has low efficiency but is very cheap at $19 each and has decent xmax. Using a few gets around the efficiency issue. The Fostex option is an interesting one, but the xmax is very low and needs high pass filtering to protect it, especially with a vented design. If I were using it I would either aim for bass down to 80 Hz vented and put the crossover there, or run it sealed and cross higher more like 200 Hz. That's a bit high for a sub crossover point.

That driver struggles to handle even 1w of input - already we're past xmax!

With 4 of the B3N sealed we can get around 102 db @ 1m with 30w which any receiver should have and it can cross low enough to work with a sub - say 100 Hz. By contrast the Fostex can take just 81 db at that point with ~80 Hz tuning and a high pass at 100 Hz. Even when running it sealed with a high pass at 200 Hz you can't put more than 1w into it without already exceeding xmax and it just manages to get out 90 db.

So in other words, the sensitivity is good but there isn't enough xmax for it to cross to a sub with useful output. Perhaps horn loading might help, but otherwise it will either be extremely limited in output or need a woofer.

Another option. Start with the Fostex driver but cross quite high to some woofers. If they will go up against walls, then a woofer with matching sensitivity is fine - look for an fs around 40 Hz and 90 db efficiency then put it in a sealed box with a Q of 0.707 and you will get 2nd order roll off below 80 Hz and textbook sub integration as easy as it gets. Now we're talking some useful output! If they will be away from walls then bafflestep comes into play and you want to double up on the woofers. You can do a slim floorstander version and since the woofers will probably be omnidirectional in their bandwidth they can fire sideways if desired. To get the efficiency an 8" midbass should be a good match.

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Appreciate the advice guys, I think i'll rule out any fostex drivers for ht use. The HiVi drivers seem like they could be a good cheap option although if I step up in cost to the CHR70/EL70, would I gain significant improvements?

That Audience driver sure looks the goods but unfortunately it's quite a bit out of my price range.

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wixy,

The Mark Audio CHR70 looks very well behaved and good value. Overall a good choice and a better behaved response than the EL70. Running them in pairs would help to bring efficiency up a little and unlike the Hivi you don't need a notch filter. Use them on-wall and you get 88 db sensitivity which is on par with a typical floorstander, and that's about as simple as it gets. I'd just fiddle around with box size, sealed vs vented etc.

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I can heartily recommend EL70 or CHR-70 for simple, cheap & excellent bang-for the buck HT (or hifi). Even doubling up should be lots of change for sub(s). I see Dan still has cast basket Trio 8s -- i had to send mine back to Bob because he ran out (a pair sealed in a 40-50 litre box is nice).

We are getting into the 40s with the EL70 & the CHR-70 in the microTowers & the Mar-Kel70 (primeSize EL70 miniOnken). So a true 9 octave single driver system. More level and more efficiency using them 2 per side (and more than a few double driver designs). The dMar-Ken70 (deciSize CHR miniOnken) should get close to 40, beta testers have been staggered by LF performance. Our protos are at the veneer stage awaiting the Mk II drivers are somewhere on a boat between here and HK (a beta set is near completion somewhere near Melbourne)

A client in California packed his subwoofer up after he built bipole EL70 Metronomes. I am working on a "matching" centre design for him.

My preference is the EL70 over the CHR Mk 1, haven't heard Mk IIs yet. EL70 is about 3 dB more efficient than CHR.

CHR works better sealed than EL70 making surrounds simple.

dave

Edited by planet10
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Other option would be the Dayton ND-90

Those are house-branded version of the Aura NS3. A decent 3" driver, and for that size driver not bad bass, was my favorite 3" until the FF85 (which is way better 100 Hz up). Surprisingly doesn't have the top end extension of the 2 inexpensive Mark Audio drivers (EL70/CHR)

dave

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My preference is the EL70 over the CHR Mk 1, haven't heard Mk IIs yet. EL70 is about 3 dB more efficient than CHR.

From measurements you've taken? Based on the datasheet the CHR 70 if anything appears more efficient due to the higher fs, and it also has a much flatter response. Near perfect. The EL70 has a peak around 450 Hz and droops at 100 Hz and above 10k the treble rolls off.

http://darcheraudio.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40_30&products_id=150

http://darcheraudio.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40_37&products_id=130

Can't imagine why anyone would prefer

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17305[/ATTACH]

over

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17306[/ATTACH]

but would be curious to hear Dave's thoughts.

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Paul,

I've heard them both -- i don't let measurements tell me which i prefer.

As you should know, a single on-axis frequency response is not very useful for telling how a speaker sounds *for the full story, check out Toole -- his wording is stronger). The hump at 450 turns out to be really useful in the fight against bafflestep. The CHR (mk 1 anyway) is a bit hard on the top compared to the EL70.

dave

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