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Around the $90-$120 would be about right. Don't whatever you do, buy a $20 "special". Taking profit margins into account, why put a $5 piece of glass in front of your $500 - $15,000 lens?

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The one use I can see that you cannot achieve in post is using in a crowded tourist spot.

Using an ND filter, you could slow the shutter speed down so much that the people moving infront of the tourist icon you are photographing simply bur away and disappear.

See section 3 of this post - making things disappear - where are the cars

That's a nice tip.. DIdn't know ND filters can do that..

Explains the empty (but beautiful beaches)... So in theory, if a guy/gal can stand perfectly still for xx seconds, that'd be one amazing shot?

If the filter helps get the shot right in the camera it is worth it. You might be able to get the same result in post process, but then you might not....

May not be possible with over/under exposure... The information is clipped and can't be recovered.

To the best of my knowledge, ND's cannot be done via PP.

Is exposure compensation the same thing as ND? Although ev can't go back to 8 stops I think.

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thanks all, Im reading all this and absorbing it like a sponge,

They reduce the amount of light coming into the sensor. This then allows for longer exposures on bright(er) days. Allows you to use longer shutter speeds without blowing out the highlights.

They are neutral in the sense that they reduce intensity of all wavelengths or colours of light equally, giving no changes in hue of color rendition.

You can get ND filters that add or enhance colours in a scene

I bought this pack on Anzac day special for $99

Thought it would be an inexpensive way to get some filters which I would only use very very occasionally.

Most things can be faked/improved in post processing these days, but I reckon always more challenging and a better sense of accomplishment if I can do it in camera - old school i know... ;)

The one use I can see that you cannot achieve in post is using in a crowded tourist spot.

Using an ND filter, you could slow the shutter speed down so much that the people moving infront of the tourist icon you are photographing simply bur away and disappear.

See section 3 of this post - making things disappear - where are the cars

thanks diesel thats a very informative post and I like that Anzac kit for the 77 10-20mm Sigma Im about to pull the trigger on

its not for me or a Pulitzer, this is for Swannie and the economy you know

Edited by mello yello
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Ive got this idea

...seeing I overbought the megapixels, Im going to put them to good use. Heres the background of the idea...I saw an artists canvas rendition of a collage of landmarks that looked like he painted onto canvas what he has pictures of, you know, Harbour Bridge, Opera House, Bondi, that sort of thing. It was a 3 x 2 canvas with a series of unjoined landmarks...sort of like a canvas version of a wall collage

Ok, I take a series of similarly themed shots, say...autumn leaves, trees, gardens etc, and (if this is possible) stitch them together symmetrically...3 across, 5 down and I should have a huge clipboard to work with which can be printed off, effects added as borders maybe, and see how it looks

something that obviously doesnt look like I have pinned 15 photos to a wall, but looks like a complete work on its own...

Archibald Fountain here I come...

edit : you can select and lock in which frame to where you want it to sit in the stitch you want cant you ?...or will the program shuffle them around and try and match trunks to branches etc ?

Edited by mello yello
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Is exposure compensation the same thing as ND? Although ev can't go back to 8 stops I think.

The "smoothing" of water cannot be done via exposure compensation. You really have to have the moving water "smoothed" by time.

cant wait to try that fireworks one

ND filter is almost a must for good fireworks shots. You may not need to go an 8-stop ND, maybe a 3- or 5-stop would be good enough. Have not done it myself so cannot speak from direct experience.

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ND filter is almost a must for good fireworks shots.

How so?

I would have thought you'd be able to capture 2-3sec exposure without the need for an ND filter?

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i like these ideas...

Don't forget the tripod...

My

almost wasn't. Got up early, had brekky, had all my gear out ready to go, and then forget the tripod.

Remembered as I just got on the train. Figured I'd miss the sunrise if I went home and then had to wait for the next train so continued on, and just managed to use a ledge, Blackrapid strap and lens cap to line the camera up to the horizon, and then away it went.

Don't forget the tripod.... ;)

Edited by diesel
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How so?

I would have thought you'd be able to capture 2-3sec exposure without the need for an ND filter?

An ND filter allows you to do, say, 20 second exposures so that you can get some buildings or other structures to give the shot some context.

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Im looking for compact this time around, something that travels, Manfrotto probably

Be careful of the extremely light weight tripods - they may not be rigid enough to hold the camera motionless. The pro's even advise against raising the middle pole as this decreases the stability of the camera platform.

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yeah I heard, thanks bushie, thats the pitfalls of travelling light, a balance between sturdiness and portability. I would never use the extension rod to hold 1.3 - 1.5 kilos. I had a look at the Manfrotto in the flesh and the legs look sturdy enough and it comes recommended.

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The "smoothing" of water cannot be done via exposure compensation. You really have to have the moving water "smoothed" by time.

ND filter is almost a must for good fireworks shots. You may not need to go an 8-stop ND, maybe a 3- or 5-stop would be good enough. Have not done it myself so cannot speak from direct experience.

In daylight, i use an ND400 which i think is 9 stops. With this i can do 20-30 second exposures on a sunny day.

With my ND 4 & 8(2 & 3 f stops) shutter speeds are generally between 2-6 seconds.

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yeah I heard, thanks bushie, thats the pitfalls of travelling light, a balance between sturdiness and portability. I would never use the extension rod to hold 1.3 - 1.5 kilos. I had a look at the Manfrotto in the flesh and the legs look sturdy enough and it comes recommended.

These are really cool. Maybe worth considering over a traditional tripod? (As long as you can find a place to grip).

You can get a lighter version of a tripod if you go carbon but they will be more expensive... Beware of Benro twist lock thingy though.. Always make sure it's engaged...

So tempted to get a ND400 filter now. What's a good one to get? Any suggestions?

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What's a good one to get? Any suggestions?

me ?

im still getting Wiki links chucked at me to explain what an ND filter is...

umm, go in and audition one first, ? then get one thats right for you ? :unsure:

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umm, go in and audition one first, ? then get one thats right for you ? :unsure:

I'm in Perth, online it has to be :(...

no, seriously...thanks Gutty, I know, ...Im a challenge

You'd be all right . :)

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Yeah, you me and every photographer i know is going midweek to try and miss the crowds hahahaha

Well I might have to change to go start of the week to miss that crowd ;)

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I got my latest one from here Treb http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261201652491?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Kenko are made in the same factory, a cheaper alternative here http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/astore/Kenko-Pro-ND400-Filters.aspx

Do beware of filters on ebay though, a lot of fakes doing the rounds.

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I got my latest one from here Treb http://www.ebay.com....984.m1497.l2649

Kenko are made in the same factory, a cheaper alternative here http://www.dwidigita...00-Filters.aspx

Do beware of filters on ebay though, a lot of fakes doing the rounds.

For 77mm that's 5$ diff, might as well get the HOya.. Trying to make an offer they couldn't refuse :P...

Wonder if AF still works with a ND400 on..

Sorry for the hijack MY :ninja: Got intrigued by the disappearing people trick.

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It will work on a really bright day, but not very fast or very well.

If shooting a waterfall etc i generally fame up the shot on a tripod, set my focus then turn AF and IS off. Screw the filter on and take the shot with a remote trigger(using live view mode so the mirror is already up). View the shot on the camera LCD(or download it to iPad if i can be bothered) and make adjustments as required.

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Interested as my printer died a while back and was thinking about getting a new one before June 30. Do people print their won pictures generally or do they take it somewhere to print? If you do your won what printers do you use?

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It will work on a really bright day, but not very fast or very well.

If shooting a waterfall etc i generally fame up the shot on a tripod, set my focus then turn AF and IS off. Screw the filter on and take the shot with a remote trigger(using live view mode so the mirror is already up). View the shot on the camera LCD(or download it to iPad if i can be bothered) and make adjustments as required.

Yeah, figures that has to be case, focus, then screw on.. Meaning probably I am stuck to 24mm with my 24-105.. But ok with the other lens... Still waiting on the ebay guy to accept the offer I've made :P...

I've use ND8 for people ghosts before.. But didn't know an even longer exposure will make them gone.. Don't really understand why this is so TBH, but heck I gotta try it out regardless).

Interested as my printer died a while back and was thinking about getting a new one before June 30. Do people print their won pictures generally or do they take it somewhere to print? If you do your won what printers do you use?

I use a Canon inkjet printer (forgot the model), matt paper.. Been a while since I printed anything though :(

Edited by myrantz
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