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My 2nd attempt at Time Lapse

Bit flickery, but will try setting the aperture and then disconnecting the lens next time...

7D, 24-105mm f/4 L, shot at 24mm, f/11, 2 sec interval

Edited by diesel
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Because of the large change in light levels through the time lapse, I set it to aperture priority.

It started off at around 1.5-2sec shutter speed, before quickly dropping below a second and ending up near 1/800th

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Oh, I would have thought AI Focus to keep the camera in focus? No?

hmm. you could be right. I'd double check again when I'm back, maybe that's why I could never get a proper pan and scan! grrr.... lol

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Because of the large change in light levels through the time lapse, I set it to aperture priority.

It started off at around 1.5-2sec shutter speed, before quickly dropping below a second and ending up near 1/800th

I guess you couldn't set it manually with the sun coming up, never tried time lapse but love the concept

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hmm. you could be right. I'd double check again when I'm back, maybe that's why I could never get a proper pan and scan! grrr.... lol

Use AI Servo for panning mate... Or all action shots pretty much. In fact i rarely take my camera off AI Servo.

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Use AI Servo for panning mate... Or all action shots pretty much. In fact i rarely take my camera off AI Servo.

stand corrected.. :blush: AI Focus switch modes, slaps head... :lol:

My flickr UI thingy changed (Very Facebook or WIndows 8 tiles now), a bit lost. Anybody else getting this? Can't keep up with tech :wacko:

Edit: Yup.. Flickr allows 1TB and full res uploads now.. http://www.flickr.com/new/ That is a lot of space!

Edited by myrantz
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stand corrected.. :blush: AI Focus switch modes, slaps head... :lol:

My flickr UI thingy changed (Very Facebook or WIndows 8 tiles now), a bit lost. Anybody else getting this? Can't keep up with tech :wacko:

Edit: Yup.. Flickr allows 1TB and full res uploads now.. http://www.flickr.com/new/ That is a lot of space!

I reckon it's a great improvement...

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I reckon it's a great improvement...

+1.. So much easier to look at other people's pics.. Man a lot of good pics on Flickr.. Hopefully these changes will kickstart flickr again..

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Difficult when you are eating the food too as I'm sure eyeliner and motor oil don't add great flavour

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Difficult when you are eating the food too as I'm sure eyeliner and motor oil don't add great flavour

yeah but can try something less wasteful.. e.g. a single cupcake or something.

After reading the article I almost had the urge to quit my job and pursue commercial food photography (probably as an apprentice/assistant under someone)... It's really interesting how folks can make uncooked food looks so beautiful... They probably have all the time to take pics, whereas I only get 2-3 minutes with mine :(

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is that the Google Glass prototype is it, treb ?

very chic

heh heh I love google glass, mainly because I am a fan of dragon ball z... :) Google glass will change how the folks perceive the world (and not in a good way unfortunately)..

Funnily enough that the topic came up, coz the point of the scouter plot in dragon ball z is that measurements aren't everything :D...

Have to wait for prescription versions though, I have a index of +20 (or something) so unlikely they're be able to get google glass that works for me :(

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Anyone on here using ND grad filters ? Screw on or slide in ? Lee ? Cokin ?

Any advice ?

I don't personally use graduated filters, but if I did, I would opt for slide, and more than likely Lee.

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Anyone on here using ND grad filters ? Screw on or slide in ? Lee ? Cokin ?

Any advice ?

Apparently there is a technique using fingers that will do something similiar :D

Use fingers to cover the bright areas, do a exposure, then use the fingers to cover the dark areas, do a exposure. Work out the difference... Then set the camera to the longer exposure, cover the bright areas, take pic, and after the difference time has elasped, remove the finger.

Apparently it works pretty well? Anybody knows what this technique is called?

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Apparently there is a technique using fingers that will do something similiar :D

Use fingers to cover the bright areas, do a exposure, then use the fingers to cover the dark areas, do a exposure. Work out the difference... Then set the camera to the longer exposure, cover the bright areas, take pic, and after the difference time has elasped, remove the finger.

Apparently it works pretty well? Anybody knows what this technique is called?

Overly complicated? :)

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I tried GND's but no longer use them. With (ultra) wide angle shots, the light can vary way to much across the shot. Better to use a GND module in post-processing.

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10-20 mm widescreen lenses, circular polarised filters, UV filters, tripods...

all i want to do is take a fancy picture in daylight under a slow exposure of water crashing over rocks during heavy surf conditions

first three were overexposed white blobs, then I leant about ISO and things improved, but Im getting this sort of halo effect...kind of like a ...glow ?

...so Im told I need some other sort of filter, to which i shut off and didnt want to hear about it

nevermind Ford closing down, resources and mining winding down, these guys are making sure i can prop up the entire retail economy trying to get a single shot of water over a rock dammitt!!!

i might just google one and print it off...

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Use an 8-stop Neutral Density (ND) filter - easy! ;) (Basically the only way to get the shot you posted.)

+1.

Get one and it'd work, added bonus of keeping the economy rolling too MY

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Use an 8-stop Neutral Density (ND) filter - easy! ;) (Basically the only way to get the shot you posted.)

+1.

Get one and it'd work, added bonus of keeping the economy rolling too MY

if it has more than three words in its title then it sounds like it likely has an OUCH factor...will investigate, thanks

hopefully I will be able to help keep a small family in St Ives fed for a week with this purchase

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heres ( a large ) photo of what we are all talking about

Neutral_density_filter_demonstration.jpg

thats exactly the halo effect Im talking about ...now, Ive seen whats described as variable ND filters,

this is a standard ND

http://www.ryda.com.au/Hoya-55mm-Neutral-Density-HMC-8X-Filter-p/552255.htm

this is a VND

http://www.ryda.com.au/Opteka-58mm-Variable-Neutral-Density-Filter-p/optvnd58.htm

a VND would be used for reducing the depth of field ? as in closer shooting ?

is that how I understand it ? so the ND is better for wider deeper shoots ?

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Ive also read you can leave an ND filter on ( as a general purpose lens protector ), does it improve general fast shutter speed shooting or is "neutral" to fast speed and only comes into effect for slow shutter speeds ?

Edited by mello yello
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just wondering guys with all the incamera filters and effects etc, HDR and also post processing etc is a ND filter really still needed these days ? I dont know just something been wondering ?

have considered getting one my self and nearly did when got my 17-40 4L

and then again when was in the shop picking up my sigma 35 1.4, but then muddled things whether should get for my 17-40 4L / 24-105 4L with their 77mm thread or get for the sigma 35 1.4 / 100L f2.8 with their 67mm thread. anyways put on the back burner as shots like above seaside one you pointed to mello I thought you really need to be right place right time. which never seems the case for me. more of a opportunist and tend to have to make best of time place conditions :)

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thats exactly the halo effect Im talking about ...now, Ive seen whats described as variable ND filters,

Best not to use VND filters as in general they are thicker. Thick filters are esp not good for wide angle lens as the corners will dark off ... Also will create more possibility of lens flare..

Ive also read you can leave an ND filter on ( as a general purpose lens protector ), does it improve general fast shutter speed shooting or is "neutral" to fast speed and only comes into effect for slow shutter speeds ?

I wouldn't do that myself.. Lens protector wise a good UV filter will do...

In general I use ND to slow the shutter down... (Although been a while since I use it).

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[quote name=:)' timestamp='1369534694' post='1888203]

just wondering guys with all the incamera filters and effects etc, HDR and also post processing etc is a ND filter really still needed these days ? I dont know just something been wondering ?

ND filters slows down the shutter.. so in general when you want to shooting those blurred seas as in MY's pic, or movement (anything that's not a freeze frame)...

To get movement, you need a longer exposure. But long exposure = more light = over expose.

So a ND filter cuts out the light evenly, allowing you to get that longer exposure without overexposing.

random google article that will hopefully explain it better: http://www.digitalca...e-numbers-mean/ As page 3 you can use step up rights instead of packing the same type of filters but in different diameters.

Edited by myrantz
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does it improve general fast shutter speed shooting or is "neutral" to fast speed and only comes into effect for slow shutter speeds ?

They reduce the amount of light coming into the sensor. This then allows for longer exposures on bright(er) days. Allows you to use longer shutter speeds without blowing out the highlights.

They are neutral in the sense that they reduce intensity of all wavelengths or colours of light equally, giving no changes in hue of color rendition.

You can get ND filters that add or enhance colours in a scene

if it has more than three words in its title then it sounds like it likely has an OUCH factor...will investigate, thanks

I bought this pack on Anzac day special for $99

Thought it would be an inexpensive way to get some filters which I would only use very very occasionally.

[quote name=:)' timestamp='1369534694' post='1888203]

just wondering guys with all the incamera filters and effects etc, HDR and also post processing etc is a ND filter really still needed these days ? I dont know just something been wondering ?

Most things can be faked/improved in post processing these days, but I reckon always more challenging and a better sense of accomplishment if I can do it in camera - old school i know... ;)

The one use I can see that you cannot achieve in post is using in a crowded tourist spot.

Using an ND filter, you could slow the shutter speed down so much that the people moving infront of the tourist icon you are photographing simply bur away and disappear.

See section 3 of this post - making things disappear - where are the cars

Edited by diesel
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