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UPDATE: Just rang another suppplier they said DB replaced D and D discontinued - they searched the website? Not sure which one, but whereevery they order their supplies from (no doubt because it is faulty :)... But it is for sale on Ebay?

So should I just get 2 DB Chips?

Ta

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I'm planning on installing a pair of chip holders when I desolder the original ones. That way I can just replace them if they go again. Anyone know if that would be a problem (signal integrity?)?

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Bergust, definitely no problems with soldering on some sockets and then connecting the chips into them (this is what has been done with mine). Good peace of mind knowing that you will be able to replace them solder free in the future if the same issue occurs.

The DB most likely did replace the D though my KVHR36M31 (Japanese) already had the DB in it, and these were what was faulty (in other words the DB is still proven to have the same issue, or possibly (though unlikely) the D did not have the issue).

If you can only get the DB go with that. If you're buying some now and putting the sockets in, I'd recommend that you pick up 4 (depending how much they cost you). I picked up 3 when I got mine (because that's the amount they came in). I replaced the two on the d-board even though there is a chance that only one was faulty. If I get the issue come back I should be able to find two working considering I also kept my two original DB chips and have my thrid never used D.

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Bergust, definitely no problems with soldering on some sockets and then connecting the chips into them (this is what has been done with mine). Good peace of mind knowing that you will be able to replace them solder free in the future if the same issue occurs.

The DB most likely did replace the D though my KVHR36M31 (Japanese) already had the DB in it, and these were what was faulty (in other words the DB is still proven to have the same issue, or possibly (though unlikely) the D did not have the issue).

If you can only get the DB go with that. If you're buying some now and putting the sockets in, I'd recommend that you pick up 4 (depending how much they cost you). I picked up 3 when I got mine (because that's the amount they came in). I replaced the two on the d-board even though there is a chance that only one was faulty. If I get the issue come back I should be able to find two working considering I also kept my two original DB chips and have my thrid never used D.

I've ordered the 'D' variant (from the ebay store listed a few posts up). I did order 4, just in case and will secure away the extra pair for the future. If I can get another 5 years out of the set, I'd be pretty happy. Spoke with a colegue who has done a bit of TV service repair before and he's briefed me on the annod cap removal technique (I was already well aware of the hazzards!), so I think I'll be more comfortable removing and completely disconnecting the D board while I desolder and resolder in the chip carriers.

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  • 4 weeks later...
My chips arrived, they were the D variants and I removed the DA type. I'm happy to say, as good as new. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. Total repair bill $25AUD.

Ghhrrrr!!!!!! My KV-HR has just developed the same fault......I'm a klutz so there is no way I'm going try and solder a new chip in....

I have an old KV-2565, I wonder if I can pilfer chips from that???

Cheers

Dave

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My chips arrived, they were the D variants and I removed the DA type. I'm happy to say, as good as new. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. Total repair bill $25AUD.

I got the same chips (replaced DA with D) .. I bought them on ebay from the states also with sockets.

The TV had showed the fault for about two weeks. Failed for good today.

I used a RS solder sucker to help remove the old chips.

I changed IC6400 and tested (I did this one first as it's easier to get at). This didn't work.. still got the 10 flashes.

I changed IC8002 and tested. This did work.

Thanks for the info guys!

Regards,

John

Edited by anotherJohn
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  • 4 weeks later...

Same problem here - KVHR36M31 with no video and no sound and 10 flashes on the red light (TV goes to standby).

Fortunately I bought the extended warranty (knew that was a good idea) :rolleyes: The total repair cost was $1010. :blink:

After the usual ineffective response from the service agent and escalation back/forward....

The Sony tech (and I do mean Sony Australia) and I spent 4 hours chatting about this problem (and various other things) while he happily replaced the Fly Back Transformer and one of the famous IC's on the D-board. He then demonstrated the over-voltage shutdown as he adjusted the HT back to 31.5kV.

The point of my message: he said it is the Fly Back Transformer (FBT) slowly failing that tiggers this fault, which can also take out the 'horizontal regulator' IC (MCZ3001) mentioned often here as the culprit. The HT slowly rises due to windings in the FBT shorting, eventually tripping the over-voltage limiter, which takes the set to standby mode and flashes the fault indicator 10 times.

So the short term fix is to replace the failed IC and turn the HT down. Of course you need the right instrument to do that. The long term fix is to replace the IC, FBT ($600) and possibly several capacitors on the D-board. Also replacing the FBT requires the Focus to be adjusted and in my case the whole scanned area shrunk... details in another post.

One other interesting point - there is no D-board replacement from Sony. Its is a component replace job only.

Scott.

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I have also had this ten light flashing fault recently. Took it to a local TV repair shop (had to be local, weighs a tonne) and they have quoted me $360 to repair it. Now I have to decide if it is worth fixing with 42" Panasonic plasmas going for around $1000.

Edited by yossarian
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I have also had this ten light flashing fault recently. Took it to a local TV repair shop (had to be local, weighs a tonne) and they have quoted me $360 to repair it. Now I have to decide if it is worth fixing with 42" Panasonic plasmas going for around $1000.

Ask how much it will be for them to resolder two new sub $10 ICs onto the board.

That is in effect what they will be doing.

If you think that is worth $360 including parts and labour, then go ahead with it. If you don't you could always have a crack yourself.

I definitely wouldn't throw the set out over this minor issue (though it's nice to have a decent excuse to buy something new).

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After speaking to the repairers that quoted me $360, they say that the fly back transformer is faulty and replacing the IC chips would not fix the problem. I am not prepared to pay $360 to repair it as I think that would be better put toward a new TV. However I suppose I would have nothing to lose by ordering the chips, having a go at replacing them myself and hoping for the best. However I know that TV's can retain a charge and I don't want to zap myself attempting a dodgy repair. How long would this Tv hold a charge? Any ideas.

I own a soldering iron and am game to try and figure out how to dissemble the Tv and locate the D board and IC's in question. Just don't want to kill myself in the process.

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After speaking to the repairers that quoted me $360, they say that the fly back transformer is faulty and replacing the IC chips would not fix the problem. I am not prepared to pay $360 to repair it as I think that would be better put toward a new TV. ....

The cost of those parts alone from the official (and only) Sony service agent in Melbourne for warranty repairs is nearly $700. At $360 (assuming that includes the FBT and IC), you are getting a good deal and/or non-genuine parts. If the TV is otherwise OK and useful to you, I would reconsider the repair.

Getting the D-board out of the TV is not easy as it requires many connectors to be removed including the HT cables. As you say, there is a risk of shock from the static charge in the tube, but I watched the repair guy remove the anode cap and he seemed to not take any care. Replacing the FBT and the IC both took a lot of de-soldering using soldering wick and a temperature controlled iron -- I have plenty of experience at soldering and I would hesitate to do that job. Just my opinion... when you get the back off the TV you'll see the challenges. :)

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Cheers Scott_S, that is useful information. I am indeed not up to any complex soldering tasks, having only ever used a soldering iron to put together some kit speakers and doing a pretty dodgy job of that.

I may just trash the TV though. I know that is a great quality TV, but at $360 I am not sure it is worth fixing.

A new 42" (as opposed to 32") flat panel plasma TV with a built in HD tuner (rather than having to fire up my htpc to get digital TV) is very tempting at about $1000. Not to mention the extra bulk of this Sony TV. I think the $360 would be better off going towards this new TV than on repairs on obsolete technology.

I saw one of these Sony Kv-hr36 go for $230 on ebay just last week, so I would not recover the repair cost if I sold it either.

I may put a post up on overclockers.com.au or here to see if anyone wants the unrepaired TV for free and have a stab at repair themselves. But at 80kg+ I don't know that I would even have any takers.

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After speaking to the repairers that quoted me $360, they say that the fly back transformer is faulty and replacing the IC chips would not fix the problem. I am not prepared to pay $360 to repair it as I think that would be better put toward a new TV. However I suppose I would have nothing to lose by ordering the chips, having a go at replacing them myself and hoping for the best. However I know that TV's can retain a charge and I don't want to zap myself attempting a dodgy repair. How long would this Tv hold a charge? Any ideas.

I own a soldering iron and am game to try and figure out how to dissemble the Tv and locate the D board and IC's in question. Just don't want to kill myself in the process.

Get another quote. -J

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If the FBT is indeed faulty then I can't comment on that at all. To me though it seems strange that it would fail at the same time as the ICs (as indicated by the flashing lights).

There is a lot of connecters that need to be undone to get proper access to the ICs, however they're all colour coded/only fit in one place. Could seem daunting at first, but if you're worried take a few photos at the beginning and along the way, that way if you need to you'll be able to reference them in connecting it back up.

When desoldering/soldering the new ICs into mine we didn't need to disconnect the anode cap / High voltage connector/flyback transformer, though we did unclip the connecting cable to give it some slack allowing us to slide out the dboard to access the bottom of the board better for desoldering.

Edited by djbigk
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I don't see the point of getting another quote as I don't think that is an expensive price for replacing the FBT and chips going on internet threads I have read. And there is discussion in this thread that the IC's failure can be related to the FBT slowly developing a fault. Even though sometimes it appears replacing the chips is enough, I can see why the shop would want to replace the FBT. They claim that they tested the FBT and I am not in a position to argue the point having no expertise in TV repair.

I may get the TV back and have a look at how difficult it is. Nothing to lose I guess.

Can anyone tell me how long the TV would have to be unplugged before the possible held charge would dissipate. Presumably it could not hold a charge indefinitely?

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Finally. I have just had my TV fixed.

I had several people not want to do the work. One person even hung up on me! :angry::angry::angry: But George just finished and he did a good job. As somebody else said, it's not easy to get to the board and I would want to be pretty confident to tackle this job. Overall the fix cost me about $170. So if your in Melbourne I can reccomend this guy. But I would buy the ICs and sockets myself on ebay as the local cost is stupid...

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  • 5 months later...

My KVHR36 developed the 10 blinks problem, two weeks after we had a 'Brown-out' in a wind storm. I purchased some replacment chips and sockets via Ebay, removed the D board myself, and had the local TV tech, who I trust, solder the sockets to the board. I reinstalled the board today; and very pleasantly, it just worked.

My TV tech had another KVHR in the shop, same problem. seems to be a common fault. I think he was interested in the solution from the forums.

He also told me it cost him $40 each for the chips. Ebay was $6 each with the sockets.

To get the board out, I could not get the C board to wiggle off, so the white wire comes out if you desolder the connection, and the red wire just pulls out and you push it back in to the connecter on the C board.

Just go slowly, take notes and photos, and you can work it out.

I must admit it was a relief when the image came up.

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Congratulations!

On the other hand, Sony sucks not to own up to this wide-spread problem.

And a slight power surge does seem to be the last straw. I did have a surge-protector, but it was the sparks cause by another appliance plugging into the board that seemed to be the culprit.

The lesson is to get a power board with surge protector WITH A SWITCH FOR EACH SOCKET.

-J.

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"It's a SONY" is recognised world wide as an acceptable product warning by nearly all consumer associations.

The biggest problem to me is the lack of help or information provided to fix problems, by Sony.

When their stuff works it is magic. The KVHR36 has no equal. BUT WHY in Oz did it not have HDMI?

I am really happy to pay more for things that are of quality and work.

I wish Sony could just grasp the concept of build quality, great repair service and we would forgive the flaws and have massive brand loyalty.

Many thanks for the help.

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"It's a SONY" is recognised world wide as an acceptable product warning by nearly all consumer associations.

The biggest problem to me is the lack of help or information provided to fix problems, by Sony.

When their stuff works it is magic. The KVHR36 has no equal. BUT WHY in Oz did it not have HDMI?

I am really happy to pay more for things that are of quality and work.

I wish Sony could just grasp the concept of build quality, great repair service and we would forgive the flaws and have massive brand loyalty.

Many thanks for the help.

I would say because with a CRT being an analogue display device having HDMI would yield no benefit as it would require the digital signal to be converted to analogue. Component is a high quality connection and yields an excellent picture

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Actually it is not about picture quality.

Imput from a PC, such as a Mac Mini into the KVHR can be difficult in terms of the resolution/geometry.

Apparently the US version of the KVHR has a HDMI and does not present as many problems to connect.

I do understand the technical limitations of HDMI, I even use Firewire to connect some of my other bits of equipment.

So no, its not about picture quality.

Come to think of it , my HD-DVD will not upconvert over component, but will over HDMI, due to the digital copy protection.

So I assume in the US market HDMI was seen as a necessary feature. Sony assessed it was not required in OZ. Must have saved say $10 per set.............

If anyone has perfected the Mac Mini to KVHR connection I would love to know how it is done...........

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Hi,

I have this TV for sale, bought it back in end of 2004, had no problems with it.

Very good working condition, Scart cables, manual, remote included.

Comes with matching criterion TV cabinet, everything $500 o.n.o

Location: Yokine, Perth

Pm me if anyone is interested...

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