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Hiya,

I have a sony KV-HR36 and after recently purchasing and setting up a ps3 it now has a recurring problem where the screen wont display anything when i turn on the television. The sound is on for a few seconds, then that dies and the red light flashes 10 times.

Turning the tv off and on and the procedure repeats itself. I left the tv for 24 hours, turned it back on and it worked. Later that night I ran the ps3 for games then a movie and it was all fine. Although again today the same problem is occurring. Hard to find info on the 10 flashing problem of this television. I have heard though that the earth's magnetic field can affect Sony tv's or heaps of hifi equipment. I have an amp and speakers hooked up to the ps3, changed that setup so the tv was to run the ps3 directly. Worked but then again as I said the problem is reoccurring. Instruction manual was no help. I had a look at http://www.agoraquest.com which is an unaffiliated Sony products website, no help found on the 10 light flashing issue.

I think the tv will work again but obviously the problem is recurring. Considering it did this, then worked after 24 hours, and is now not working again, what kind of problem could this be??

Any advice, thoughts or help would be appreciated. Cheers

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krohm, what mtv said is indeed correct. I had exactly the same issue develop with my KVHR36M31 a month or so back.

You need to purchase some MCZ3001D ICs. I bought three on ebay and it cost me about $20 including postage. I had a quick squiz just then and the same seller doesn't have any available. Most likely only 1 is at fault, however I replaced both on the D-Board on my TV (more-over my Brother-in-law did as he is handy with a soldering iron). My TV now works perfectly.

You will find with yours in the meantime that if you leave the set off for a large period of time it will turn on, however if you turn it off then want to turn it back on it won't work.

If you're at all handy with a soldering iron (the hard part is probably de-soldering the existing chips. You should buy some sockets to house the new chips that you put in, as then if you need to replace them again in the future no soldering will be required.

If you have any further questions flick me a PM.

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cheers guys; dont think ill be doing the soldering myself. found out there is a tv guy round the corner, gonna give him a call see how much for the fix you mentioned. shouldnt be more then $100. rather just shell out the cash then attempt my first soldering on this awesome tv :)

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cheers guys; dont think ill be doing the soldering myself. found out there is a tv guy round the corner, gonna give him a call see how much for the fix you mentioned. shouldnt be more then $100. rather just shell out the cash then attempt my first soldering on this awesome tv :)

I think it will cost you more than that, largely in labour. A TV repairman who works with Sony's will be familiar with the problem. The size of the set is prohibitive as you know, so moving it will be a bit of a pain to say the least! I guess I mean see if he can come out to look at it. It's not too hard to disconnect the D-board enough so that you can turn it to get better access to the faulty ICs.

I was quoted $270 to do the same on my TV as a call-out (from the authorised Sony Repair place).

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Hi, I had exactly the same problem about a week or so ago..

See: http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?showtopic=76088

The service manual can be found here: (it tells you about the 10 blinks)..

http://users.tpg.com.au/jbrogan/

As stated before I don't want to Jinz it but mine seems to have fixed itself?.. I basically just turned it off and on very fast about 200 times over a few days... a mixture of remote on/off and power on/off.. I get a loud thud when it is going to work.. Anyway my 10 red blinks gone and all green.. been working for last few days without any issue...

Called sony repairer and quoted about $600 to replace board..

If breaks again may see if I can get someone in Sydney to put in thee chips suggested above..

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Bugger, bugger, bugger... should not have posted my KVHR had fixed itself.. I did jinx it.. woke up this morning and TV would not turn on!

Anyone in Sydney and available to soldier in one of the above IC's?? If so please PM to discuss.

Thanks

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Bugger, bugger, bugger... should not have posted my KVHR had fixed itself.. I did jinx it.. woke up this morning and TV would not turn on!

Anyone in Sydney and available to soldier in one of the above IC's?? If so please PM to discuss.

Thanks

In the meantime eggbeater if you only turn your TV on once each day (with a big gap between viewings) you should be ok to use the TV. I used mine like this over a week or so (eg. Turn it on at 7:00PM turn it off at 10:30PM, turn it on at 6:00PM turn it off at 10:00PM, etc etc).

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No PM's yet. :( just rang home.. TV still not turning on.. family not happy..

If you know anyone who may be able to solider in the IC's please get them to PM me asap as would like to work something out with them quickly to get TV back up and running..

Thanks

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No PM's yet. :( just rang home.. TV still not turning on.. family not happy..

If you know anyone who may be able to solider in the IC's please get them to PM me asap as would like to work something out with them quickly to get TV back up and running..

Thanks

Do you actually have the ICs as yet?

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Wow, my login still works! Who would have thought, the service manual I sourced for this board all those years ago would have come in handy. My KVHR36 has just started to produce exactly the same fault code (and symptom) (10 blinks). I've also ordered some of those suspect chips and will give that a go. Thanks for the ebay link to the IC's. I was'nt looking forward to transporting the behometh to the repair shop. Hopefully it is those chips on mine as the SM also indicates the transformer on the same board.

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Service manual is pretty generic with regards to troubleshooting the diagnostic lights.

Can't go wrong with changing the ICs though. If it doesn't resolve the problem you've only set yourself back about $20. Chances are it will fix the issue though (as it did with me, and many others from searching online).

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Never actualy worked on a CRT before (years of electronics experience though). From someone who has made the chip change-over or similar, did you bother removing the entire D-board or just turn the chasis on the side (as indicated in the SM) and desolder in place? I'm just not confident removing the annode to get the board out if I can avoid it.

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Sorry.. just need to clarify.. about to try to get repaiman to order the replacement chips.. but do I want MCZ3001DB or MCZ3001D? Which was the original ones? and which is the new one? Does it matter?

Thanks everyone..

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Just called chip supplier they only have MCZ3001DB (and not MCZ3001D).. they said the searched fo a MCZ3001D goes to MCZ3001DB and therefore thinks the DB replaced the D.. but they were not 100% sure..

What does everyone think? Should I get the DB?

Also FYI the chips (from Melbourne supplier) were $33each + $6.60 delivery.. alot more expensive the ebay?

I think I need to get 2?

Thanks

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UPDATE: Just rang another suppplier they said DB replaced D and D discontinued - they searched the website? Not sure which one, but whereevery they order their supplies from (no doubt because it is faulty :)... But it is for sale on Ebay?

So should I just get 2 DB Chips?

Ta

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I'm planning on installing a pair of chip holders when I desolder the original ones. That way I can just replace them if they go again. Anyone know if that would be a problem (signal integrity?)?

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Bergust, definitely no problems with soldering on some sockets and then connecting the chips into them (this is what has been done with mine). Good peace of mind knowing that you will be able to replace them solder free in the future if the same issue occurs.

The DB most likely did replace the D though my KVHR36M31 (Japanese) already had the DB in it, and these were what was faulty (in other words the DB is still proven to have the same issue, or possibly (though unlikely) the D did not have the issue).

If you can only get the DB go with that. If you're buying some now and putting the sockets in, I'd recommend that you pick up 4 (depending how much they cost you). I picked up 3 when I got mine (because that's the amount they came in). I replaced the two on the d-board even though there is a chance that only one was faulty. If I get the issue come back I should be able to find two working considering I also kept my two original DB chips and have my thrid never used D.

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Bergust, definitely no problems with soldering on some sockets and then connecting the chips into them (this is what has been done with mine). Good peace of mind knowing that you will be able to replace them solder free in the future if the same issue occurs.

The DB most likely did replace the D though my KVHR36M31 (Japanese) already had the DB in it, and these were what was faulty (in other words the DB is still proven to have the same issue, or possibly (though unlikely) the D did not have the issue).

If you can only get the DB go with that. If you're buying some now and putting the sockets in, I'd recommend that you pick up 4 (depending how much they cost you). I picked up 3 when I got mine (because that's the amount they came in). I replaced the two on the d-board even though there is a chance that only one was faulty. If I get the issue come back I should be able to find two working considering I also kept my two original DB chips and have my thrid never used D.

I've ordered the 'D' variant (from the ebay store listed a few posts up). I did order 4, just in case and will secure away the extra pair for the future. If I can get another 5 years out of the set, I'd be pretty happy. Spoke with a colegue who has done a bit of TV service repair before and he's briefed me on the annod cap removal technique (I was already well aware of the hazzards!), so I think I'll be more comfortable removing and completely disconnecting the D board while I desolder and resolder in the chip carriers.

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  • 4 weeks later...
My chips arrived, they were the D variants and I removed the DA type. I'm happy to say, as good as new. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. Total repair bill $25AUD.

Ghhrrrr!!!!!! My KV-HR has just developed the same fault......I'm a klutz so there is no way I'm going try and solder a new chip in....

I have an old KV-2565, I wonder if I can pilfer chips from that???

Cheers

Dave

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My chips arrived, they were the D variants and I removed the DA type. I'm happy to say, as good as new. Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated. Total repair bill $25AUD.

I got the same chips (replaced DA with D) .. I bought them on ebay from the states also with sockets.

The TV had showed the fault for about two weeks. Failed for good today.

I used a RS solder sucker to help remove the old chips.

I changed IC6400 and tested (I did this one first as it's easier to get at). This didn't work.. still got the 10 flashes.

I changed IC8002 and tested. This did work.

Thanks for the info guys!

Regards,

John

Edited by anotherJohn
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  • 4 weeks later...

Same problem here - KVHR36M31 with no video and no sound and 10 flashes on the red light (TV goes to standby).

Fortunately I bought the extended warranty (knew that was a good idea) :rolleyes: The total repair cost was $1010. :blink:

After the usual ineffective response from the service agent and escalation back/forward....

The Sony tech (and I do mean Sony Australia) and I spent 4 hours chatting about this problem (and various other things) while he happily replaced the Fly Back Transformer and one of the famous IC's on the D-board. He then demonstrated the over-voltage shutdown as he adjusted the HT back to 31.5kV.

The point of my message: he said it is the Fly Back Transformer (FBT) slowly failing that tiggers this fault, which can also take out the 'horizontal regulator' IC (MCZ3001) mentioned often here as the culprit. The HT slowly rises due to windings in the FBT shorting, eventually tripping the over-voltage limiter, which takes the set to standby mode and flashes the fault indicator 10 times.

So the short term fix is to replace the failed IC and turn the HT down. Of course you need the right instrument to do that. The long term fix is to replace the IC, FBT ($600) and possibly several capacitors on the D-board. Also replacing the FBT requires the Focus to be adjusted and in my case the whole scanned area shrunk... details in another post.

One other interesting point - there is no D-board replacement from Sony. Its is a component replace job only.

Scott.

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I have also had this ten light flashing fault recently. Took it to a local TV repair shop (had to be local, weighs a tonne) and they have quoted me $360 to repair it. Now I have to decide if it is worth fixing with 42" Panasonic plasmas going for around $1000.

Edited by yossarian
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I have also had this ten light flashing fault recently. Took it to a local TV repair shop (had to be local, weighs a tonne) and they have quoted me $360 to repair it. Now I have to decide if it is worth fixing with 42" Panasonic plasmas going for around $1000.

Ask how much it will be for them to resolder two new sub $10 ICs onto the board.

That is in effect what they will be doing.

If you think that is worth $360 including parts and labour, then go ahead with it. If you don't you could always have a crack yourself.

I definitely wouldn't throw the set out over this minor issue (though it's nice to have a decent excuse to buy something new).

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After speaking to the repairers that quoted me $360, they say that the fly back transformer is faulty and replacing the IC chips would not fix the problem. I am not prepared to pay $360 to repair it as I think that would be better put toward a new TV. However I suppose I would have nothing to lose by ordering the chips, having a go at replacing them myself and hoping for the best. However I know that TV's can retain a charge and I don't want to zap myself attempting a dodgy repair. How long would this Tv hold a charge? Any ideas.

I own a soldering iron and am game to try and figure out how to dissemble the Tv and locate the D board and IC's in question. Just don't want to kill myself in the process.

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After speaking to the repairers that quoted me $360, they say that the fly back transformer is faulty and replacing the IC chips would not fix the problem. I am not prepared to pay $360 to repair it as I think that would be better put toward a new TV. ....

The cost of those parts alone from the official (and only) Sony service agent in Melbourne for warranty repairs is nearly $700. At $360 (assuming that includes the FBT and IC), you are getting a good deal and/or non-genuine parts. If the TV is otherwise OK and useful to you, I would reconsider the repair.

Getting the D-board out of the TV is not easy as it requires many connectors to be removed including the HT cables. As you say, there is a risk of shock from the static charge in the tube, but I watched the repair guy remove the anode cap and he seemed to not take any care. Replacing the FBT and the IC both took a lot of de-soldering using soldering wick and a temperature controlled iron -- I have plenty of experience at soldering and I would hesitate to do that job. Just my opinion... when you get the back off the TV you'll see the challenges. :)

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Cheers Scott_S, that is useful information. I am indeed not up to any complex soldering tasks, having only ever used a soldering iron to put together some kit speakers and doing a pretty dodgy job of that.

I may just trash the TV though. I know that is a great quality TV, but at $360 I am not sure it is worth fixing.

A new 42" (as opposed to 32") flat panel plasma TV with a built in HD tuner (rather than having to fire up my htpc to get digital TV) is very tempting at about $1000. Not to mention the extra bulk of this Sony TV. I think the $360 would be better off going towards this new TV than on repairs on obsolete technology.

I saw one of these Sony Kv-hr36 go for $230 on ebay just last week, so I would not recover the repair cost if I sold it either.

I may put a post up on overclockers.com.au or here to see if anyone wants the unrepaired TV for free and have a stab at repair themselves. But at 80kg+ I don't know that I would even have any takers.

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