Beyonwiz Dp-p2

[diesel]

The Wiz is a breeze for some quick and dirty editing (eg topping/tailing a recording, splitting recordings etc) but more accurate editing is best done on a PC with programs like VideoReDo TV Suite etc

[Bildi]

Appreciated, Bildi.

8]

Hardly use slow-mo myself, so that's ok.

I can only see me editing the beginning/ends of recordings, not the ads in between, as I delete most of my recordings anyway, once i've watched them. Maybe only on the keepers, but i've yet to do that with my currently archived recordings, so I can live without mass-edits if it's no good.

FF/Rew on my LG isn't too great either, so i'm used to that. I do appreciate the accuracy of the Panasonic, but can live without it, if it means I get a better unit & feature-set overall.

I agree with cwt and diesel - as long as you aren't expecting a super-precise editing machine, the P2 is awesome. I set up my skips to be +1min, -1min, +10secs, -5secs, and with that I don't find a need to use FF and REW at all. I can skip through recordings quite fast by holding the +1min button, so I don't miss the +-10minute ability of the Panny. If you really missed it you could customise your skips differently.

Other differences between the P2 and my old Panasonic which might apply to your XW350:

- You can extend recordings and timers on the P2 freely while recording is happening;

- Editing happens during normal playback, you don't have to stop and go into a separate editing screen;

- The P2 remembers where you were up to in the last 32 files, my Panny only remembered the last thing I viewed.

- An advantage of the Panny is the ability to set a lower recording quality, the P2 can only record the raw stream. An hour of HD takes about 6GB, SD I'm not sure maybe 2 to 4GB. P2 has the advantage of taking an external HDD though.

I had a look at the P2 instructions when I was researching, you might find them useful also: http://www.beyonwiz.com.au/download.asp.

[Eth Nick]

Can anyone confirm whether the HDMI port on this model supports multi-channel audio?

My current LG PVR can't output more than 2 channels (for 5.1 broadcasts) via its' HDMI port when hooked up to my AVR, so I can only use it for picture, while using an optical cable for audio, so i'm hoping the Beyonwiz DP-P2 only needs an HDMI to output everything.

Edited March 11, 2010 by Ralfi

[diesel]

I'm not sure if it's more to do with HDMI handshaking issues, but most people recommend using optical and HDMI. I believe HDMI does do multi channel, but depending on the start up sequence it may revert to 2CH if it doesn't get the right message back from the AVR(?)

[straycat]

Tuner 'glitch' in new P2

2 weeks ago I got a Dp-p2 at HN Belmont (Perth) for $625. Price tag was $749 so I was quite pleased with the reduction.

My first concern though, was when, after I'd unpacked everything, I noticed that one corner of the carton had been slightly crushed.

Then, after bumbling through initial setup, I wasn't presented with the automatic service scan page as per the manual. Instead, I noticed that the front display window was already showing '7 HD Digital', so this unit had obviously been previously used. My instincts told me to pack it back in the carton and return it immediately for a replacement, but - it was Saturday night and I had a must-watch AFL match the following evening (My old STB had failed a few days earlier.)

Told myself it had probably just been used in-store as a demonstrator, and wouldn't have been just put back in stock after having been returned as faulty by a previous owner. So I ran the service scan and completed setup.

It worked flawlessly for several hours viewing the first evening, but when watching a recorded half-hour program on the Monday, on 2 occasions there were brief picture 'glitches'. ie: the picture froze for a split second with vague blocking in center screen, audio unaffected. I thought the HDD may be faulty, possibly as a result of whatever had caused the minor damage to the carton. However, since then I've watched quite a few hours of live broadcast, and I've seen the same 'glitch' occur very occasionally (eg. once or twice every few hours) both in live and timeshift.

The problem is really unobtrusive, and almost not worth worrying about, but with a new toy which I really couldn't even afford to buy, I expect it to work flawlessly.

I've read through many pages of relevant topics, both here and on the BW forum, but haven't found this exact problem already covered, so I'm hopeful that someone may have some advice.

My old Acer display doesn't have HDMI inputs, so the BW is connected with component, set to output 1080i. All channels are being received with good signal strength, as far as I can tell with the rather rudimentary signal quality display.

Edit: Firmware version on BW is 01-07-016

So, any suggestions? Have I got a dud which must be returned?

Edited April 2, 2010 by straycat

[MichaelWRX]

Tuner 'glitch' in new P2

2 weeks ago I got a Dp-p2 at HN Belmont (Perth) for $625. Price tag was $749 so I was quite pleased with the reduction.

My first concern though, was when, after I'd unpacked everything, I noticed that one corner of the carton had been slightly crushed.

Then, after bumbling through initial setup, I wasn't presented with the automatic service scan page as per the manual. Instead, I noticed that the front display window was already showing '7 HD Digital', so this unit had obviously been previously used. My instincts told me to pack it back in the carton and return it immediately for a replacement, but - it was Saturday night and I had a must-watch AFL match the following evening (My old STB had failed a few days earlier.)

Told myself it had probably just been used in-store as a demonstrator, and wouldn't have been just put back in stock after having been returned as faulty by a previous owner. So I ran the service scan and completed setup.

It worked flawlessly for several hours viewing the first evening, but when watching a recorded half-hour program on the Monday, on 2 occasions there were brief picture 'glitches'. ie: the picture froze for a split second with vague blocking in center screen, audio unaffected. I thought the HDD may be faulty, possibly as a result of whatever had caused the minor damage to the carton. However, since then I've watched quite a few hours of live broadcast, and I've seen the same 'glitch' occur very occasionally (eg. once or twice every few hours) both in live and timeshift.

The problem is really unobtrusive, and almost not worth worrying about, but with a new toy which I really couldn't even afford to buy, I expect it to work flawlessly.

I've read through many pages of relevant topics, both here and on the BW forum, but haven't found this exact problem already covered, so I'm hopeful that someone may have some advice.

My old Acer display doesn't have HDMI inputs, so the BW is connected with component, set to output 1080i. All channels are being received with good signal strength, as far as I can tell with the rather rudimentary signal quality display.

So, any suggestions? Have I got a dud which must be returned?

Goto Dick Smith buy a $50 Kingray inline amplifier see how that goes for a week. If it doesn't fix then return the amp for a refund. This sounds like a signal issue.

[straycat]

Goto Dick Smith buy a $50 Kingray inline amplifier see how that goes for a week. If it doesn't fix then return the amp for a refund. This sounds like a signal issue.

Thanks Michael for quick response. I hadn't considered that option, mainly because signal strength as indicated seems pretty good and was never an issue with my old Legend STB.

I can see the transmitter mast from up on the roof and can align my antenna exactly by line-of-sight, - but.... the alignment does have to be really precise to get both channel 7 & 9, and, the antenna is an old analogue model, so I really should have investigated that first.

Unless I hear from someone else with a different fix, I'll invest that $50, and let you know how it goes.

[tonymy01]

Unless I hear from someone else with a different fix, I'll invest that $50, and let you know how it goes.

Invest about that for a Fracarro LP345HV antenna, and about another $40 for good quad shielded coax. If you have the skill to get up on the roof to align your antenna, it should be an easy install (the antenna is tiny too). Wacking amps in is not a good solution to overcoming brief interference, sort it out at the source, the antenna and coax first.

Regards

[straycat]

Invest about that for a Fracarro LP345HV antenna, and about another $40 for good quad shielded coax.

That sounds like very good advice Tony. I was already thinking that amplifying a dodgy signal could be counterproductive.

Only problem is that I'm renting this place and it's currently on the market, so I could get a termination notice at any moment. With my luck, I'd probably find a new place with no reception problems (if that is my problem here) and I'd have a new, surplus antenna and cable.

Not a big problem though, if a new one is really that cheap.

Rather than just suggesting that I replace this old analogue one with a new digital, you were very specific with your recommendation. Is that model Fracarro highly recommended? When I log off here I'll hit Google as I've never researched this topic before, but if you've got time I'd appreciate hearing your reason(s) for specifying this particular antenna.

Edit: Never mind, on that request Tony. I've since found an old (2007) thread on the Beyonwiz forum dealing with what seems to be my problem. You were a contributer btw. Apparently some P1 's seemed to have reception problems that sound similar to mine except my audio seems to be unaffected. I've also checked out the Fracarro on Google and it does sound pretty good. I'll give it a go, although apparently the problem was sometimes insurmountable in the P1, and I may just have to get used to it if the antenna upgrade doesn't fix it.

Anyway, I'm pleased to hear that at least 2 members here consider the issue could simply be signal strength rather than a fault with my new toy; and I didn't mention before, that despite what I thought was a minor problem with it, I do REALLY love it!

Thanks.

Edited April 2, 2010 by straycat

[Doonks]

Hi

I purchased the DP-P2 on Saturday at The Good guys in Dandenong (Melbourne) for $580. I am not tech- savvy, but have had a good crack at setting this thing up myself. I seem to have got most of it right but am battling with LAN connection to access media stored on my PC, but I'll come back to that.

I am finding that the picture and sound quality when fed through the DP-P2 in STB mode is not as good as the TV's own display is when the DP-P2 is powered off. I have a Samsung 46" Series 6 LCD. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, were you able to resolve the quality or is it simply a case that the Beyonwiz is not as good a receiver as the TV itself?

Connection to the PC via LAN.

I have the ethernet cable running to a 4 port hub, then to my router where my PC is (obviously) also connected. The PC is running Windows 7 Ultimate 64. I can get the DP-P2 to access the PC's shared folders but this takes an INORDINATE amount of time. When I hit the File Play button and then go to Network, you'd think the DP-P2 has frozen, it takes over 5 minutes for it to do anything. I was able to eventually select an AVI file, but when I selected "play" all I got was flashing green and yellow lines across the screen. I couldn't stop this at all, and in the end all I could do was power the DP-P2 off. I also have had the DP-P2 simply hang when trying to access a folder with simply jpg files in it.

Because I can see the folders on the PC, I'm presuming I've got the sharing permissions right at the PC end, so has anyone got any ideas what's not going right?

Appreciate any help,

Cheers

Doonks

[Grampus]

Hi

I purchased the DP-P2 on Saturday at The Good guys in Dandenong (Melbourne) for $580. I am not tech- savvy, but have had a good crack at setting this thing up myself. I seem to have got most of it right but am battling with LAN connection to access media stored on my PC, but I'll come back to that.

I am finding that the picture and sound quality when fed through the DP-P2 in STB mode is not as good as the TV's own display is when the DP-P2 is powered off. I have a Samsung 46" Series 6 LCD. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, were you able to resolve the quality or is it simply a case that the Beyonwiz is not as good a receiver as the TV itself?

Connection to the PC via LAN.

I have the ethernet cable running to a 4 port hub, then to my router where my PC is (obviously) also connected. The PC is running Windows 7 Ultimate 64. I can get the DP-P2 to access the PC's shared folders but this takes an INORDINATE amount of time. When I hit the File Play button and then go to Network, you'd think the DP-P2 has frozen, it takes over 5 minutes for it to do anything. I was able to eventually select an AVI file, but when I selected "play" all I got was flashing green and yellow lines across the screen. I couldn't stop this at all, and in the end all I could do was power the DP-P2 off. I also have had the DP-P2 simply hang when trying to access a folder with simply jpg files in it.

Because I can see the folders on the PC, I'm presuming I've got the sharing permissions right at the PC end, so has anyone got any ideas what's not going right?

Appreciate any help,

Cheers

Doonks

Re the quality.

How are you connected to the TV?

HDMI, Component?

Try toggling through each video format by using the TV-OUT on your remote.

One of the 1080i connections should be the best.

Re the LAN.

probably teaching grandma to suck eggs etc.

But it sounds like a classic case of an overloaded/slow enet connection.

What speed ports are on the hub?

Do you have a capability of looking at the hub to see if there are lots of collisions?

Most hubs have leds that show the traffic, with orange being the notification of collisions.

I don't think we have had any reports of connection problems through ethernet to that extent, that we can say aha I know your problem.

If you haven't already done so, it may be in your interest to join the BeyonWiz forum

Here

[Doonks]

Re the quality.

How are you connected to the TV?

HDMI, Component?

Try toggling through each video format by using the TV-OUT on your remote.

One of the 1080i connections should be the best.

Re the LAN.

probably teaching grandma to suck eggs etc.

But it sounds like a classic case of an overloaded/slow enet connection.

What speed ports are on the hub?

Do you have a capability of looking at the hub to see if there are lots of collisions?

Most hubs have leds that show the traffic, with orange being the notification of collisions.

I don't think we have had any reports of connection problems through ethernet to that extent, that we can say aha I know your problem.

If you haven't already done so, it may be in your interest to join the BeyonWiz forum

Here

Antenna WAS connected : Socket>DPP2 (RF In)>RF Out>TV RF In

I also of course had the HDMI connecting from the DPP2 to the TV

I didn't realise that I did not require the coax connection from the DPP2 RF Out to the TV RF In because the HDMI does that also. I kind of worked that out after posting here. However, the TV does have a wide variety of display controls such as RGB (separately), Contract, Brightness, Cool/Warm Temperatures, Backlighting blah blah blah, where the DPP2 only has Colour/Contrast/Brightness. I presume the DPP2 overrides the TV settings when supplying the TV with the AV.

The LAN issues are more problematic. Last night it took in excess of 20 minutes for the DPP2 to "Load" a jpeg, and then it only produced about 3% of the image. This is obviously wrong. I accessed an AVI and got it to load (again taking several minutes) and then commence to play, but after about 30 seconds of play time, it dropped sound completely and the image became static and jumped frame to frame, very much like YouTube does (for instance) when the PC cannot buffer the feed quick enough.

I have ADSL 2+ (iinet) and never have this problem in any other situation. In fact, prior to the DPP2 I had an original Xbox chipped and connected via same ethernet to the PC, and simply read a folder instantly and played media directly as if I were playing it on the PC itself. The ability to play media from my PC was a MAJOR reason I purchased this PVR and is therefore very important to me.

I have no idea how to look at the traffic flowing through the Hub or even what these "collisions" are, sorry

[diesel]

I didn't realise that I did not require the coax connection from the DPP2 RF Out to the TV RF In because the HDMI does that also.

If you still want the ability to watch "Live" TV through your Samsung, then you do need the antenna daisy chained tfrom the Wiz to the TV. This should really only be useful when the Wiz is recording two shows and you need to watch another live.

the TV does have a wide variety of display controls such as RGB (separately), Contract, Brightness, Cool/Warm Temperatures, Backlighting blah blah blah, where the DPP2 only has Colour/Contrast/Brightness. I presume the DPP2 overrides the TV settings when supplying the TV with the AV.

The TV settings still do take effect. Each input on your TV will have it's own settings and it is best to calibrate each input. Just because Live TV from the internal tuner looks good with a particular set of settings, doesn't mean that it'll also be the best for the Wiz, DVD, Bluray etc. Adjust the PQ settings via the TV as you have far many more options.

The LAN issues are more problematic. Last night it took in excess of 20 minutes for the DPP2 to "Load" a jpeg, and then it only produced about 3% of the image. This is obviously wrong. I accessed an AVI and got it to load (again taking several minutes) and then commence to play, but after about 30 seconds of play time, it dropped sound completely and the image became static and jumped frame to frame, very much like YouTube does (for instance) when the PC cannot buffer the feed quick enough.

Sounds very much like the network is too slow. The Wiz should take 5-10secs to load a jpeg image depending on the size. Remember, anything more than about 5MP cannot be displayed in portrait and anything more than 10MP cannot be displayed in landscape

I have ADSL 2+ (iinet) and never have this problem in any other situation. In fact, prior to the DPP2 I had an original Xbox chipped and connected via same ethernet to the PC, and simply read a folder instantly and played media directly as if I were playing it on the PC itself. The ability to play media from my PC was a MAJOR reason I purchased this PVR and is therefore very important to me.

Have a look at the Networking sub-forum on the Beyonwiz Forum. There are plenty of tips, hints etc there that may help.

Also, have you added a user account for the Wiz on your PC, setup Windows sharing on the WizPNP menu, and done a reboot of the PC, and Wiz followed by clearing the PC from the Wiz's network list and rescanning?

[pgdownload]

I have no idea how to look at the traffic flowing through the Hub or even what these "collisions" are, sorry

The hub will have an ip address. Type this into your browser and its likely you'll get a login screen (admin,admin) See what reporting menu options are available (if any)

Regards

Peter Gillespie

[prl]

...

The LAN issues are more problematic. Last night it took in excess of 20 minutes for the DPP2 to "Load" a jpeg, and then it only produced about 3% of the image. This is obviously wrong. I accessed an AVI and got it to load (again taking several minutes) and then commence to play, but after about 30 seconds of play time, it dropped sound completely and the image became static and jumped frame to frame, very much like YouTube does (for instance) when the PC cannot buffer the feed quick enough.

I have ADSL 2+ (iinet) and never have this problem in any other situation. In fact, prior to the DPP2 I had an original Xbox chipped and connected via same ethernet to the PC, and simply read a folder instantly and played media directly as if I were playing it on the PC itself. The ability to play media from my PC was a MAJOR reason I purchased this PVR and is therefore very important to me.

I have no idea how to look at the traffic flowing through the Hub or even what these "collisions" are, sorry

The ADSL part of your setup shouldn't be important because the problems you are describing are almost certainly on the Ethernet part of your network, the part of your network in your house. ADSL is the connection from your router to the telephone exchange where it connects to the broader Internet.

Collisions happen when two devices try to use your local Ethernet at the same time. Depending on the technology of your hub, this can happen when any two senders try to send an Ethernet message (packet) at the same, or when they try to send the packet to the same destination at the same time. When a computer wants to send something on the local net, it waits until no-one else is using the net, then starts transmitting. If two computers are waiting to do this, their packets are likely to interfere with each other and "collide". Ethernet is designed to recover from packet collisions, but if the network is very heavily loaded, there can be so many collisions, and collisions that happen when devices try to re-send after a collision, that the traffic through the Ethernet grinds to a near standstill. That's fairly unusual on home networks where there are usually only a few devices.

You can get a rough idea of what devices on the hub are actively using it just by looking at the activity LEDs on the hub ports. If they're flashing, the connection to the device on that port is in use.

My first suggestion would be to try to eliminate the hub as a cause of problems. First by disconnecting all other devices from the hub except the Beyonwiz and the router. Does that help? If that doesn't help, then, if it's possible, try connecting the Beyonwiz direct to the router (unplugging the connection from the router to the hub and plugging the cable from the hub into the Beyonwiz Ethernet port). Does that help?

If not, perhaps the problem is something connected to the router. Try leaving the Beyonwiz connected direct to the router, and disconnecting all the Ethernet devices from the router except your PC and the Beyonwiz. Does that help?

[tonymy01]

The hub will have an ip address.

I would say 99.9% of hubs in the home network environment do NOT have an IP address. A hub is a layer 2 device only, it does not even know about IP. I am assuming it is more likely to be a switch than a hub (still no IP address, similar principles to a hub), a switch at least will do a little bit of control with mac address caching and the like, effectively not "sharing" every port with every machine for non-broadcast packets. If it really is a hub, this is bad news in an environment sending large packets and lots of info around, a switch is a much better device (and only about $20-$30 for a 5port switch from the likes of MSY etc). If it is an ancient 10base-T/2 hub, this might explain lots about why it is falling over at the drop of a hat, streaming vid live is fairly bandwidth consuming, and would be saturating a 10BaseT hub at the best of times.

[Grampus]

I would say 99.9% of hubs in the home network environment do NOT have an IP address. A hub is a layer 2 device only, it does not even know about IP. I am assuming it is more likely to be a switch than a hub (still no IP address, similar principles to a hub), a switch at least will do a little bit of control with mac address caching and the like, effectively not "sharing" every port with every machine for non-broadcast packets. If it really is a hub, this is bad news in an environment sending large packets and lots of info around, a switch is a much better device (and only about $20-$30 for a 5port switch from the likes of MSY etc). If it is an ancient 10base-T/2 hub, this might explain lots about why it is falling over at the drop of a hat, streaming vid live is fairly bandwidth consuming, and would be saturating a 10BaseT hub at the best of times.

Once again , the port lamps on the hub should tell the story.

If you see them banging away, and it has the hardware that shows collisions, (generally orange), this should tell us a lot.

What is the hub?

Name? device type? What is it known as?

[Doonks]

Once again , the port lamps on the hub should tell the story.

If you see them banging away, and it has the hardware that shows collisions, (generally orange), this should tell us a lot.

What is the hub?

Name? device type? What is it known as?

Guys - I sorted it. I frigged around with absolutely everything I could, and then I came back into the front bedroom where my PC is all set up to see the router display showing the Cat 5 running to the Hub as orange (No comms) instead of green. There was nothing coming out of the Hub to the PC.

So I plugged the Cat 5 direct from the router into the Ethernet port on the DPP2, and it was like Christmas morning !!!

Everything worked, instantly, every media file loaded, and played. Tomorrow I am going to get a new Hub cause I need to Ethernet connect the Blu-Ray, my iPod Dock, the DPP2, the old Xbox, or maybe a new Xbox360.

Thanks you all so very very much, you have no idea how relieved I am !!!!

BTW - the Hub I have is a Netgear 4 Port 10BaseT EN 104 TP. Had, not have

Edited April 20, 2010 by Doonks

[pgdownload]

I would say 99.9% of hubs in the home network environment do NOT have an IP address. A hub is a layer 2 device only.

My bad. Should have known that -was mixing them up with modem routers probably.

Glad the OP sorted his issues.

Thanks

Peter Gillespie

[prl]

...

BTW - the Hub I have is a Netgear 4 Port 10BaseT EN 104 TP. Had, not have

10BaseT (i.e. 10Mb/s Ethernet) is not really fast enough to run video reliably anyway.

[Doonks]

Yes, this I have learned.

Can anyone advise a 4 (or preferably 6) port Hub that is more than capable of handling the Beyonwiz's requirements ALONG WITH the iPod Dock and Blu-Ray all being active simultaneously?

[pgdownload]

10BaseT (i.e. 10Mb/s Ethernet) is not really fast enough to run video reliably anyway.

Is there a simple way for me to verify what speed my LAN network is running at (ie 10 or 100 Mb/s)

Regards

Peter Gillespie

[prl]

Is there a simple way for me to verify what speed my LAN network is running at (ie 10 or 100 Mb/s)

Regards

Peter Gillespie

With any good switch or router, different connections to the switch (or router) can run at different speeds. The throughput between connections will be limited by the speed of the slower one. All connections to a hub with no store-and-forward capability will run at the speed of the slowest connection to the hub.

Most modern Ethernet devices will negotiation the their highest common speed on connection (so if you connect a Beyonwiz with 10/100 Ethernet to a 10/100/1000 Ethernet router, it should negotiate 100MB/s).

If you mean "how do I find the connection speed of an Ethernet interface on a computer running the only operating system that exists in the world?" , then open the Network Connections Control Panel, and double-click on the interface. The information panel that opens will tell you the speed of the connection.

For anything else, you need to be more specific about what device you want to measure the connection speed to. Beyonwizes, in particular, won't tell you from the GUI. There may be a program that can tell you if you telnet in, but ifconfig typically won't.

If you can reliably play HD FTA recordings over your home network, all links in the connection between the two devices are faster than 10Mb/s.

[tonymy01]

Yes, this I have learned.

Can anyone advise a 4 (or preferably 6) port Hub that is more than capable of handling the Beyonwiz's requirements ALONG WITH the iPod Dock and Blu-Ray all being active simultaneously?

A hub is not the solution for any network these days, it is lousy in that it shares the full network capacity amongst all machines regardless of which machine is talking to which. So a 10base-T hub is really just never going to work these days. A 10base-T switch may almost cope, as it will give the full 10megabit/s link between any 2 machines talking to each other, while giving similar to other devices talking to each other. But you can get little 5-port 100base-T switches for about $20-$30 from MSY and most of those corner PC shops (I think I got mine on Ebay for $25 about 7 or 8 months ago, inc shipping!). It is powered from a small 1amp or so 5V plug-pack typically.

So forget hubs now, ancient technology when switches are a dime a dozen. And think about what is streaming. Broadcast TV, esp high definition, is over 10megabit/s. So you will not be able to stream broadcast TV on a 10megabit/s link anyway. Material highly compressed (e.g 1Gigabyte HD show for 42min episode, compressed by someone somewhere to MKV or AVI with MPEG-4 AVC/etc) may stream ok over 10megabit/s, but really, when I was running 802.11b to my DP-S1, noticed plenty of lag doing anything over 802.11b, which has similar real world throughputs as 10baseT. 100base-T (or 802.11n if you go wireless) is really the only solution for streaming vids (or of course gigabit ethernet... but the Wiz only has 100base-T max), and a switch or router with inbuilt switch is really the only solution for getting multiple machines working together, not a hub.

[pgdownload]

All connections to a hub with no store-and-forward capability will run at the speed of the slowest connection to the hub.

Thanks, I was under the impression that the slowest rules them all. So what I want to know is if there is some bit of equipment slowing down everything else without checking everything. There must be some place I can see what rate devices have negotiated (or I can measure actual speeds of random packets moving around my network?)

For example I have two modem/routers on my network connected via a ethernet cable. Surely I can find out how fast they have negotiated to talk?

If you can reliably play HD FTA recordings over your home network, all links in the connection between the two devices are faster than 10

I don't stream FTA. I find AVIs work fine but MKVs generally start hiccuping some way in.

Regards

Peter Gillespie

Edited April 21, 2010 by pgdownload