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Hi everyone!

Well, I've finally received most of the bits for my home theatre setup (got my Denon AVR-3808 and Paradigm Monitor 11's and ADP-390's delivered on the weekend, just waiting on the CC-390 centre and the DSP-3200 sub - the neighbours look on in fear).

Hooked up the Denon via a Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to my Samsung LA48F81BDX, and via another Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to a media centre PC built around AMD's 780G chipset (Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H).

Now, here's my problem. I've had the media centre PC hooking up to the Samsung F81 like a dream. 1080P@60Hz looking absolutely fantastic for a few months now. I've tried to setup the Denon simply to pass the signal from the media centre through to the TV, and all I ever get is "Mode Not Supported" on the Samy! ARGH! I've turned off the IP Scaler in the Denon for the media centre's input (DVR), but nothing's changed.

Anyone tried something like this and found a solution? This one's got me scratching my head a bit.

Thanks a trillion,

milka

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Hi everyone!

Well, I've finally received most of the bits for my home theatre setup (got my Denon AVR-3808 and Paradigm Monitor 11's and ADP-390's delivered on the weekend, just waiting on the CC-390 centre and the DSP-3200 sub - the neighbours look on in fear).

Hooked up the Denon via a Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to my Samsung LA48F81BDX, and via another Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to a media centre PC built around AMD's 780G chipset (Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H).

Now, here's my problem. I've had the media centre PC hooking up to the Samsung F81 like a dream. 1080P@60Hz looking absolutely fantastic for a few months now. I've tried to setup the Denon simply to pass the signal from the media centre through to the TV, and all I ever get is "Mode Not Supported" on the Samy! ARGH! I've turned off the IP Scaler in the Denon for the media centre's input (DVR), but nothing's changed.

Anyone tried something like this and found a solution? This one's got me scratching my head a bit.

Thanks a trillion,

milka

can your denon give you a display on the front panel indicating the incoming and outgoing signal/resolution?

To trouble shoot you could also get a tool on your HTPC which can trap/display the EDID info - then compare the EDID you get when connected directly to the TV, vs the EDID you get when trying to run through the Denon.

In fact now that you mention it, i believe i read about a problem with Denon *08 models in the Intel G35 thread on AVS forums, regarding them not doing something properly with resolutions (or was it multichannel PCM audio over HDMI) which was as yet unresolved. Maybe check AVS?

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Hi all. About a week ago I got a la40m81bdx. With the backlight at anything but 10, it emits a low buzz constantly. It seems to change in tone as the screen gets darker. For example as I change channels and see a blank screen for a second while switching, the buzzing is quite bad. Leaving the backlight at 10 I won't hear it until the image on screen gets dark. It's usually only noticeable when the TV is on mute or low volume but its quite annoying due to it not being a constant sound...

Is this expected behavior with these TV's? Or should I try to do something about it? Thanks.

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Is this expected behavior with these TV's? Or should I try to do something about it? Thanks.

No, this sounds like a problem with the TV. Turning the backlight up to torch mode is not the solution. You're just burning up your TV to tune out a serious issue. Call the store and say you've got a problem. They have to replace a faulty TV within 14 days. There's no need to call Samsung support.

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damnit... i guess it was too good to be true.

got a call about my 58" P9 from HN (CBD/SA) and was told that they spoke to Samsung who said there's a 4 week min wait... more likely 6-8 week.

so i started ringing around. Good Guys (Pooraka/SA) first of all couldnt match the HN price, and secondly spoke to Samsung who stated that the model was discontinued so couldnt get any in anyway. then i spoke to JB Hifi (TTP/SA) who advised me that they only have one display item (and couldn't match the HN price anyway) and confirmed that the model was discontinued.

Oh please god no......

I had clearance to buy the 58 inch after tax time...this TV was like my first crush, now what am I to do????? :(

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Hi all

I also had my Sammy 46F81 hooked up to my HTPC via HDMI, does anyone else have an issue with it loosing the signal this mainly happens when I shrink or close vista media centre to get to the desktop the whole screen will go black for a moment sometimes it will then come good again and sometime it will flash up with no signal from the sammy before coming up I hope this post is making sense :) I can't play with the TV to describe exactly what happens at the moment because it was collected by the service agent yesterday(for a different issue) so I am typing this from memory this does not occur all the time just sometimes I have changed HDMI cables with no effect.

On the other issue the reason the Sammy was collected was due to a bright blue thin line down one side of the screen I believe it is known as a dead pixel column what causes this ? is it because it is hooked up to a pc ? In the manual it states not to connect a pc or laptop via HDMI

Thanks

Mel

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Hi all. About a week ago I got a la40m81bdx. With the backlight at anything but 10, it emits a low buzz constantly. It seems to change in tone as the screen gets darker. For example as I change channels and see a blank screen for a second while switching, the buzzing is quite bad. Leaving the backlight at 10 I won't hear it until the image on screen gets dark. It's usually only noticeable when the TV is on mute or low volume but its quite annoying due to it not being a constant sound...

Is this expected behavior with these TV's? Or should I try to do something about it? Thanks.

No, this sounds like a problem with the TV. Turning the backlight up to torch mode is not the solution. You're just burning up your TV to tune out a serious issue. Call the store and say you've got a problem. They have to replace a faulty TV within 14 days. There's no need to call Samsung support.

As Kulfi says, you've got a problem and to ramp up the Backlight to 10 will shorten the life of your lamp (although, not by a huge amount) and not actually solve the problem. It sounds like a faulty power supply that gets noisy when it's not under a big load.

This may sound like a crazy idea, but have you tried a different power socket in the house that is on a different phase to make sure it's not the power supply in the house that's actually the issue? I doubt if this is the problem, but you never know until you give it a try.

Also, are you plugging the power cord for the Sammy direct into the wall or into a power board?

Edited by JasonInMelbourne
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Thanks for the replies guys.

This may sound like a crazy idea, but have you tried a different power socket in the house that is on a different phase to make sure it's not the power supply in the house that's actually the issue? I doubt if this is the problem, but you never know until you give it a try.

Also, are you plugging the power cord for the Sammy direct into the wall or into a power board?

Yea I'm connecting it to a cheap new 6 port power board, and I haven't tried any other power points, i'll test that out tonight. Cheers.

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Hooked up the Denon via a Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to my Samsung LA48F81BDX, and via another Selby HDMI 1.3 cable to a media centre PC built around AMD's 780G chipset (Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H).

No problems with this? Have been using my laptop via VGA (no DVI) and was considering getting a HDMI capable HTPC soon, but read in the manual not to connect a PC via HDMI??

-Nick

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No problems with this? Have been using my laptop via VGA (no DVI) and was considering getting a HDMI capable HTPC soon, but read in the manual not to connect a PC via HDMI??

-Nick

There is NO problem using hdmi if you follow the manual's.

I have 46" f8 connected via hdmi[use hdmi 2] and 32" R8 connected via dvi / hdmi[use hdmi 2]

The F8 runs at 1920/1080 at 50 hz[just scan pixel maps at this res] and the R8 runs at 1360/768 at 60 hz[pixel maps at this res]

The R8 is on for 5-6 hrs a day without the slightest problem..

There is also not the slightest problem using the F8 from the pc.

Hdrocks; :P On an LCD.

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can your denon give you a display on the front panel indicating the incoming and outgoing signal/resolution?

To trouble shoot you could also get a tool on your HTPC which can trap/display the EDID info - then compare the EDID you get when connected directly to the TV, vs the EDID you get when trying to run through the Denon.

In fact now that you mention it, i believe i read about a problem with Denon *08 models in the Intel G35 thread on AVS forums, regarding them not doing something properly with resolutions (or was it multichannel PCM audio over HDMI) which was as yet unresolved. Maybe check AVS?

Well, everythings working like a dream and would've been if I'd had a 15 metre long ethernet cable when I first got the Denon! All it took was a firmware update of the Denon, and I've got the HTPC passing through the signal to the Denon and then onto the F81. Must've been Denon's well documented EDID issues. Still have to use HDMI2 on the F81 though, otherwise the picture looks crap and overscan correction just never seems to find the exact 1:1 mapping.

Cheers,

milka

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There is NO problem using hdmi if you follow the manual's.

I have 46" f8 connected via hdmi[use hdmi 2] and 32" R8 connected via dvi / hdmi[use hdmi 2]

The F8 runs at 1920/1080 at 50 hz[just scan pixel maps at this res] and the R8 runs at 1360/768 at 60 hz[pixel maps at this res]

The R8 is on for 5-6 hrs a day without the slightest problem..

There is also not the slightest problem using the F8 from the pc.

No worries thanks, though shouldn't it be 60hz? That's what it says for VGA...

-Nick

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Hi all,

Just bought a 40 inch F8

Had loads of problems with Foxtel IQ and the F8

Since Samsung upgraded firmware it only appears to be a Foxtel issue;)

Shadow and blur/ghosting when watching closeups of people etc....

Foxtel was connected via composite...

Here is my solution:

(1) download the firmware update and install

(2) composite is **** and seems to cause most of the "wave" problems; Buy the SCART too component cables

Since installation of the 6 pin SCART to component cables the problem seems to be solved and picture seems to be great now with no visible wave effects.

Note: you don't need the 6th video cable since you are running in component; I would recommend not even bothering plugging this one in as you might end up selecting the wrong input (if your an idiot like me!)

Hope this helps as it took me a while to figure out

PMY

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There is NO problem using hdmi if you follow the manual's.

I have 46" f8 connected via hdmi[use hdmi 2] and 32" R8 connected via dvi / hdmi[use hdmi 2]

The F8 runs at 1920/1080 at 50 hz[just scan pixel maps at this res] and the R8 runs at 1360/768 at 60 hz[pixel maps at this res]

The R8 is on for 5-6 hrs a day without the slightest problem..

There is also not the slightest problem using the F8 from the pc.

Hdrocks; :P On an LCD.

Hdrocks,

Are you using HTPC on both your F81 and R8?

I am planning to upgrade my 37" Sharp Aquos LCD (1366x768) and was looking at the 46" F81 to connect my HTPC. I got a pretty good PQ already and I am not too sure if the improvement in PQ is worth the investment (besides the increase in size, of course). Is there a big gap in the PQ between your R8 against your F81? My connection is currently DVI/DVI, so if I have to upgrade, I have to use DVI/HDMI. I also have a BD drive, hence, the plan to upgrade to 1080p capable panel.

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Guest rooster1

Today I watched samsung latest 40' 5 series. I am not impressed by it at all. Comparing with SONY d series, even palsonic, the picture quality is worse. I also watch Spider Man with Sony X & W series and Samsung's bad name F series and admit F series really earns its bad names.

I did not watch SS M series which are discontinued and has good reputations.

I am not sure if SS 5 series needs more tunning or not. It is cheaper, around $1800 to $1900 post negotiation and it is Full HD.

My budget is below $2000.

Can anyone comment on this please

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Hdrocks,

Are you using HTPC on both your F81 and R8?

I am planning to upgrade my 37" Sharp Aquos LCD (1366x768) and was looking at the 46" F81 to connect my HTPC. I got a pretty good PQ already and I am not too sure if the improvement in PQ is worth the investment (besides the increase in size, of course). Is there a big gap in the PQ between your R8 against your F81? My connection is currently DVI/DVI, so if I have to upgrade, I have to use DVI/HDMI. I also have a BD drive, hence, the plan to upgrade to 1080p capable panel.

Yes, both are fed from the same card.

As I said the F8 is hdmi/hdmi and the R8 is dvi/hdmi.

If you are going to use the set for a monitor as well as a tv then an upgrade to full HD would not go astray.

HDrocks: :P

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Today I watched samsung latest 40' 5 series. I am not impressed by it at all. Comparing with SONY d series, even palsonic, the picture quality is worse. I also watch Spider Man with Sony X & W series and Samsung's bad name F series and admit F series really earns its bad names.

I did not watch SS M series which are discontinued and has good reputations.

I am not sure if SS 5 series needs more tunning or not. It is cheaper, around $1800 to $1900 post negotiation and it is Full HD.

My budget is below $2000.

Can anyone comment on this please

What did you watch ? Only Spider-Man ?

Where did you watch it ?

Did you set it up correctly or was it running on the default store settings ?

Was it fed by a BluRay player or from a normal DVD ?

What kind of connection was going from the player to the TV ?

How does the F-series earn its bad reputation ?

You're giving very little information and want others to spend their time making a lot of guesswork. Why is that ?

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Hi all,

Just bought a 40 inch F8

Had loads of problems with Foxtel IQ and the F8

Since Samsung upgraded firmware it only appears to be a Foxtel issue;)

Shadow and blur/ghosting when watching closeups of people etc....

Foxtel was connected via composite...

Here is my solution:

(1) download the firmware update and install

(2) composite is **** and seems to cause most of the "wave" problems; Buy the SCART too component cables

Since installation of the 6 pin SCART to component cables the problem seems to be solved and picture seems to be great now with no visible wave effects.

Note: you don't need the 6th video cable since you are running in component; I would recommend not even bothering plugging this one in as you might end up selecting the wrong input (if your an idiot like me!)

Hope this helps as it took me a while to figure out

PMY

same here... never even go for composite cables for foxtel when buying this TV....

you need a scart to component cable..... and don't buy the 100$ ones.... the 20-30$ ones will do you enough good... i reckoin i even haev one spare one left in my kitty if anyone really needs it desperately

Edited by Rocean
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No worries thanks, though shouldn't it be 60hz? That's what it says for VGA...

-Nick

Hi Nick,if you read my post you will see that I do not use vga,as far as I am concerned vga is dead.

Over HDMI the F8 needs a 50 hz signal if you want to use just scan[to pixel map].

I am sure that someone such as Owen could step in here and explain that you should not be viewing a movie on a 60 hz signal anyway.

HDrocks: :PI I love the F8's.

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Today I watched samsung latest 40' 5 series. I am not impressed by it at all. Comparing with SONY d series, even palsonic, the picture quality is worse. I also watch Spider Man with Sony X & W series and Samsung's bad name F series and admit F series really earns its bad names.

I did not watch SS M series which are discontinued and has good reputations.

I am not sure if SS 5 series needs more tunning or not. It is cheaper, around $1800 to $1900 post negotiation and it is Full HD.

My budget is below $2000.

Can anyone comment on this please

where did you find that the F series has a bad reputation?

The F series is regarded very highly in LCD tv's

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What did you watch ? Only Spider-Man ?

Where did you watch it ?

Did you set it up correctly or was it running on the default store settings ?

Was it fed by a BluRay player or from a normal DVD ?

What kind of connection was going from the player to the TV ?

How does the F-series earn its bad reputation ?

You're giving very little information and want others to spend their time making a lot of guesswork. Why is that ?

where did you find that the F series has a bad reputation?

The F series is regarded very highly in LCD tv's

Kulfi, Shano, I think you're both onto something here. These wild claims that the F Series has a bad reputation are very strange. And this bloke (I presume is a bloke) hasn't given us enough information about the set-up he was watching, or that he watched it for an extended period of time with different material, which suggests he doesn't know what he's looking for nor has he patience to do it himself.

Rooster1, please proove my assumptions about you wrong and supply us with more information about where you saw this "bad" Samsung, the model, what the viewing material was (Blu-ray or DVD) and how it was connected to the set. Even a wall of Full HD sets connected by Component to a single blu-ray/HD source can look bad unless the store uses a quality amplified signal distributor.

Edited by JasonInMelbourne
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No worries thanks, though shouldn't it be 60hz? That's what it says for VGA...

Best check the F8 manual first, just checking now:

HDMI/DVI:

800x600 @ 60.317 Hz (VGA: 60.317, 72.188, 75 Hz)

1024x768 @ 60.004 Hz (VGA: 60.004, 70.069, 75.029 Hz)

1280x1024 @ 60.020 Hz (VGA: 60.020, 75.025 Hz)

1920x1080 @ 59.934 Hz (VGA: 59.934 Hz)

From when I was doing some testing with my laptop over VGA and DVI to a 46F8 it was very particular about the refresh rates, I remember 1920x1080 @ 60 Hz was a no-go while 59.934 Hz was fine (but both get listed as 60 Hz, go figure...). Check your HTPC for suitable refresh rates.

Melinda: Sounds like the hardware from the HTPC is changing resolutions or switching modes, maybe try on a VGA screen to see if it flickers when closing Media Centre. Should be fine with DVI -> HDMI cable from a HTPC as long as the refresh modes match correctly, some computers can't output the correct refresh rates without some tweaking which is probably why Samsung don't recommend it. Typically a PC will output rounded refresh rates (exactly 60, 72, 75 Hz etc) whereas the Samsung requires what is above which isn't spot on rounded refresh rate numbers. (Thank you PAL/NTSC...)

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Best check the F8 manual first, just checking now:

HDMI/DVI:

800x600 @ 60.317 Hz (VGA: 60.317, 72.188, 75 Hz)

1024x768 @ 60.004 Hz (VGA: 60.004, 70.069, 75.029 Hz)

1280x1024 @ 60.020 Hz (VGA: 60.020, 75.025 Hz)

1920x1080 @ 59.934 Hz (VGA: 59.934 Hz)

From when I was doing some testing with my laptop over VGA and DVI to a 46F8 it was very particular about the refresh rates, I remember 1920x1080 @ 60 Hz was a no-go while 59.934 Hz was fine (but both get listed as 60 Hz, go figure...). Check your HTPC for suitable refresh rates.

Melinda: Sounds like the hardware from the HTPC is changing resolutions or switching modes, maybe try on a VGA screen to see if it flickers when closing Media Centre. Should be fine with DVI -> HDMI cable from a HTPC as long as the refresh modes match correctly, some computers can't output the correct refresh rates without some tweaking which is probably why Samsung don't recommend it. Typically a PC will output rounded refresh rates (exactly 60, 72, 75 Hz etc) whereas the Samsung requires what is above which isn't spot on rounded refresh rate numbers. (Thank you PAL/NTSC...)

For the LAST TIME i hope: The F8 accepts 1920 x 1080p at 50hz and 60 hz from a PC over HDMI.

How do I know.? Because I am sitting in front of it changing signals as I type.

If the set does not accept it its because you have a **** card or you do not have a clue what you are doing.

HDrocks: :P On a LCD at 50 and 60 hz.

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