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IT WORKS! IT WORKS! - 1:1 pixel matching @ 1920 x 1080 p60 on TEAC LCD4235A

TEAC just dropped my LCD4235A 42" LCD TV off after upgrading the firmware and guess what... It is now pixel perfect (full 1:1 pixel matching) at 1080p via the HDMI interface at both 50 and 60 Hz. The difference is quite profound.

So it's always no overscan for HDMI now or the overscan can be turned on via menu setting?

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So it's always no overscan for HDMI now or the overscan can be turned on via menu setting?

Always no overscan. 1920 x 1080 is the TV's native resolution and anything less than that causes underscan (at least with me from my HTPC). Anything more causes the typical monitor zoom effect. Basically, it acts like a fixed resolution LCD monitor.

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Always no overscan. 1920 x 1080 is the TV's native resolution and anything less than that causes underscan (at least with me from my HTPC). Anything more causes the typical monitor zoom effect. Basically, it acts like a fixed resolution LCD monitor.

Andy-Roo, you are a champion...

I reckon I'm a starter for one of these if 1:1 is sorted.

If you're looking for 1080p its either the Sony X which is expensive and ugly, the new Samsung just coming out which is expensive and has overscan/ no 1:1 mapping... or the Teac. I reckon I'm sold..

.

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Always no overscan. 1920 x 1080 is the TV's native resolution and anything less than that causes underscan (at least with me from my HTPC). Anything more causes the typical monitor zoom effect. Basically, it acts like a fixed resolution LCD monitor.

Hmmm... That's no good for the 1080i signal from my Samsung DTB-H550F HD STB. It will show white vertical lines on the right boundary if there is no overscan :blink:

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Hmmm... That's no good for the 1080i signal from my Samsung DTB-H550F HD STB. It will show white vertical lines on the right boundary if there is no overscan :blink:

The TV's manual says it will support 1080i via component and HDMI interfaces. Only 1080p via HDMI. I guess there could be bandwidth issues over other interfaces but am only guessing. Dunno what the display would look like in interlace mode as my HTPC converts interlaced signals to progressive scan though Im sure I could set it to display interlaced content without conversion if I could be arsed... Which I cant. I guess, you would just need to test this in store if you were looking to purchase. Anyway, Im a happy lil camper.

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The TV's manual says it will support 1080i via component and HDMI interfaces. Only 1080p via HDMI. I guess there could be bandwidth issues over other interfaces but am only guessing. Dunno what the display would look like in interlace mode as my HTPC converts interlaced signals to progressive scan though Im sure I could set it to display interlaced content without conversion if I could be arsed... Which I cant. I guess, you would just need to test this in store if you were looking to purchase. Anyway, Im a happy lil camper.

What's maximum resolution for the VGA then?

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Andy-Roo, good to hear it all went well, and it's consumers like you who make life easier for the rest of us. I was considering a Pyrod / Conwa 37" but there was just too many negatives with other aspects of the set, along with negative comments about it's overall quality from various sources.

I agree with the comments about TEAC, if they can offer products with good quality at a price significantly below the "upper level" brands, along with service like you experienced with the firmware update, then they could end up receiving vastly improved customer satisfaction (and improved rep and sales). Hopefully, someone with some status at TEAC is keeping an eye on this. They have had a dodgy reputation in Aus for a fair while, and they could easily improve this, with this kind of service / support.

I believe Teac supply some fairly decent level hifi gear in other countries, so there is no logical reason that they couldn't develop their reputation and products in this country to get away from the "cheap s*#t" status most of their products have had up until now.

That 37" 1920x1080 lcd is starting to look very tempting if I can convince the financial minister of the 'value' of it - especially compared to expensive Sony / Samsung / Schaub-Lorenz products etc.

Now all that being said, spoco2 can you give any impression of what the 1360x768 looks like on the 3233A and are you using any software like powerstrip to get this resolution display or just default windows / video card driver settings. (I noticed on a magnavox that certain parts of letters in words would be faded - thinner than the rest of the letter when attempting resolutions like this via vga. I ask because the manual .pdf I have for these Teac's doesn't list any widescreen vga inputs like 1280x720, 1280x768 or 1360x768 as being recognised). I have to ask incase the budget minister sets an upper limit on spending :blink: .

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1920x1080 is a selectable resolution for VGA in the latest dashboard upgrade (released 30 min ago). the TEAC, being a 1920x1080 panel, one would have hoped, should have been able to allow this resolution.

Cool, thanks for the info. I just upgraded and found there is a new 1080p setting for HDTV in the latest dashboard :blink: Could you try the component port to see if it accept the 1080p signal from Xbox 360?

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OK. Im not sure if Im being limited by the fact that the only VGA cable I could find in the house is a 3 meter long KVM lead (signal attenuation) but I can get all resolutions up to 1600 x 1200 but not 1920 x 1080. I have anecdotal evidence from a friend with a LCD4235A who reports he has the TV working at 1920 x 1080 via the VGA interface but again, that is just speculation. I cannot, and currently have no real need to do so. Therefore, if anyone else (or my "friend") with a LCD4235A can test this, I think there are some ppl here who would be keen to know.

In the mean time, I'll just go back to using the HDMI interface at 1920 x 1080p:)

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Firstly Let me just say a big thanx to all members of this forum. Its topics like this one that make you appreciate forums and how helpful they can be.

Andy Roo, that is awesome news that you got your Teac 4235A to output 1080p @60 and I was wondering how do you go about finding out the firmware revision, as I am interested in purchasing this LCD most likely by XMAS (need a few months to save 3K). I have a HDCP capable card and I was wondering if you have tried the Cyberlink Blu Ray & HD DVD Advisor Utility from here:

http://www.cyberlink.com/multi/support/bdh...t/diagnosis.jsp

This util will test if your LCD is HDCP compliant, which it should be anyway, but I was just wondering if you have tried it. Now for this to function you need a HDCP capable video card (like my Leadtek 7900GS) and you should be good to go. If you dont have a HDCP enabled video card the util will tell you that your TEAC is not HDCP compliant, but dont stress too much about that until you get a card with HDCP.

Have you played any HD clips on it...if so..it must look immac, but I bet you cant wait (like most of us) for HD DVD & Blu Rays to come out. I love this country but why oh why are we always last with these things :blink:.

Its great to see other users who also know what is going on, as we do not live in a UTOPIA, where you could buy a 1080p capable device and it would simply work!! No Overscan, No stress trying to set 1x1 pixel mapping etc.....Thanks all and keep up the good work!!!!

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Firstly Let me just say a big thanx to all members of this forum. Its topics like this one that make you appreciate forums and how helpful they can be.

Andy Roo, that is awesome news that you got your Teac 4235A to output 1080p @60 and I was wondering how do you go about finding out the firmware revision, as I am interested in purchasing this LCD most likely by XMAS (need a few months to save 3K). I have a HDCP capable card and I was wondering if you have tried the Cyberlink Blu Ray & HD DVD Advisor Utility from here:

http://www.cyberlink.com/multi/support/bdh...t/diagnosis.jsp

This util will test if your LCD is HDCP compliant, which it should be anyway, but I was just wondering if you have tried it. Now for this to function you need a HDCP capable video card (like my Leadtek 7900GS) and you should be good to go. If you dont have a HDCP enabled video card the util will tell you that your TEAC is not HDCP compliant, but dont stress too much about that until you get a card with HDCP.

Have you played any HD clips on it...if so..it must look immac, but I bet you cant wait (like most of us) for HD DVD & Blu Rays to come out. I love this country but why oh why are we always last with these things :blink:.

Its great to see other users who also know what is going on, as we do not live in a UTOPIA, where you could buy a 1080p capable device and it would simply work!! No Overscan, No stress trying to set 1x1 pixel mapping etc.....Thanks all and keep up the good work!!!!

Thanks - its good to give something back and no I haven't. . . Yet:)

Im a bit hesitant to tell people how to access the factory menu myself but am more than happy to say that the answer to this question appears at least once in this thread and numerous times elsewhere in other threads in this forum so keep looking here and you will find... The only reason Im so coy is that TEAC grilled me when I gave them my firmware version number so I dont want to upset anyone.

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Now all that being said, spoco2 can you give any impression of what the 1360x768 looks like on the 3233A and are you using any software like powerstrip to get this resolution display or just default windows / video card driver settings. (I noticed on a magnavox that certain parts of letters in words would be faded - thinner than the rest of the letter when attempting resolutions like this via vga. I ask because the manual .pdf I have for these Teac's doesn't list any widescreen vga inputs like 1280x720, 1280x768 or 1360x768 as being recognised). I have to ask incase the budget minister sets an upper limit on spending dry.gif .

How it looks

It looks just absolutely sensational to my untrained eye. Using the PC as a PC through it (web surfing and the like) looks fantastic, easy on the eye, very bright, great contrast etc. Watching HD content looks damn fine through it, although my underpowered Media PC can't play true high quality high def content, so the HD content is the usual slightly too compressed DivX files and the like that you may find on *cough* torrent sites *cough*. But having said that they still do look damn great, and is a huge step up from watching them letterboxed on a 68cm CRT.

The only true High Def content that looks like real HD content I've looked at I've had to play through my more powerful laptop hooked up to it (720p WMP HD samples from Microsoft). That graphics card (one of those Intel Extreme things, in a brand new Dell laptop) can't output 1360x768, so that was tested at 1280x768 (I think)... that looked superb after I discovered a setting to make the card stop holding original aspect ratio as that isn't a widescreen resolution. Once it was set to fill the screen, the image appeared at the right aspect ratio for the content and looked amazing.

How I outputted 1360x768

Initially I was worried too, after reading the manual and doing the calcs and seeing that none of the listed resolutions were 16:9, I thought... hmmm, this is a bit crappy. Then I looked at my resolution output options from the GeforceMX440 that's in that machine (see, told you it was underpowered, it's built from the cast offs from the better machine), and saw no 16:9 ones in there too :blink:.

But I hadn't updated my drivers for ages, so I headed off to Nvidia and grabbed the latest ones. Once installed got the new snazzy Nvidia control app, went to the resolutions setting spot and there was 1360x768, just waiting to be picked. And it looked pretty damn good, but not perfect. Then I used the Nvidia calibration wizard or whatever it's called, a great little thing which first asks you if the display connected is a flat panel. If you say yes, then it gives you a calibration screen and tells you to use your panel's auto calibration. Go into the erm... 'Window' menu I think it is in the TEAC, then down to VGA, then in there somewhere (I'm at work, can't remember exactly) there is the option to auto calibrate. The screen then adjusts itself based on the test pattern and you have yourself a perfectly rock steady, centered, great looking image!

Could not be happier with how easy it really was to get it looking this good on VGA.

A question for those who know more than me

Last night I was watching some Lord of the Rings on DVD via Component and noted that in pans and other motions it was quite juddery... "Oh god! I can't handle this, it looks terrible... it didn't look like this on my CRT via SVHS... what have I done?!"

So, just for giggles I changed the (Pioneer) DVD player output from the progressive output I had set it to back to Interlaced... well... problem solved, smooth as silk now. The DVD menus (ie. the Pioneer setup ones, not the disc's ones) look a lot more blurry via Interlaced compared to Progressive, but the actual DVD content looks markedly better, smooth and far more watchable.

Why is this the case? I thought Progressive was better. Is it the DVD player or the screen at fault here, or is it just something that I didn't know?

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I have a question which I think I know the answer too, but I'm not 100% sure.

Since I've got the 32" Teac I've noticed in a large number of SD Digital TV (as my Mediastar 920 PVR is only SD) what I believe is over zealous compression on the network's part, but am not sure as I never noticed it when viewing on the 68" CRT I used to use.

Part of compressing a moving image is recognizing parts that don't change frame to frame, and leaving them so as to save bits. This is extended to having the compression algorithm note when there is something that while it may be moving in the scene, it doesn't change itself (such as, say, a building moving past during a pan or the like). So, the compression takes this 'static object' and moves it around the scene rather, which takes less bits to store than completely redrawing it each frame.

Now... what I've been noticing a lot with Digital TV recently is that there seems to be quite a lot of this being used to excess, such that you end up seeing kind of 'floating' patches of the image moving slightly off from their surroundings due to compression being turned up a bit too much. You see it most with things like trees in a background or parts of people's faces (like their cheek). It can be quite, quite distracting.

I am pretty sure that it is the way that it's coming down from the tv station, and I'm only noticing it now as I have a much larger and clearer display. BUT... I would just like to know is there anything that maybe the tv itself is actually doing that is causing this? Is there something that it's doing when scaling SD up to its native resolution that causes this? I am pretty darn sure I have not noticed this on SD DVD playback though (via component) although am yet to really sit down and watch a whole movie, and not on PC input via VGA at full res, although I did notice it a LOT when I first had the PC hooked up via SVHS at 4:3 resolution, 16:9 zoomed in to watch a show. (I know, terrible, was only for the first night before I got the cables)

I'd hate for it to be the tv that's doing this... but would like to know if it is, and if so, are there ways to combat it? (different input rather than SVHS for example?)

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How I outputted 1360x768

But I hadn't updated my drivers for ages, so I headed off to Nvidia and grabbed the latest ones. Once installed got the new snazzy Nvidia control app, went to the resolutions setting spot and there was 1360x768, just waiting to be picked. And it looked pretty damn good, but not perfect. Then I used the Nvidia calibration wizard or whatever it's called, a great little thing which first asks you if the display connected is a flat panel. If you say yes, then it gives you a calibration screen and tells you to use your panel's auto calibration. Go into the erm... 'Window' menu I think it is in the TEAC, then down to VGA, then in there somewhere (I'm at work, can't remember exactly) there is the option to auto calibrate. The screen then adjusts itself based on the test pattern and you have yourself a perfectly rock steady, centered, great looking image!

this for the 32" panel?

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Just curious as to what the lowest price for the 42" is so far... from my searching I've been quoted $3400 by JB and $3500+ by HN.

Which Retravision store quoted $2800 ? I'll go back to JB tomorrow with this quote to see if they will match / better it.

Cheers.

( Is there any point waiting till Christmas on this ? ).

Looking to hook up to my server ( which is controlled via laptop ) and the Wii.

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Just curious as to what the lowest price for the 42" is so far... from my searching I've been quoted $3400 by JB and $3500+ by HN.

Which Retravision store quoted $2800 ? I'll go back to JB tomorrow with this quote to see if they will match / better it.

Cheers.

( Is there any point waiting till Christmas on this ? ).

Looking to hook up to my server ( which is controlled via laptop ) and the Wii.

depends on where you are....

east seems to be about $2800... west i think i have the best price so far of $2995 from good guys... i had a hell of an argument trying to get it tho... it was only cause i proved the sales guy so bady wrong after he poinedly told me i didnt know what i was talking about.. that he let me have it for that price.... either way its lots cheaper than any of the others....

Steve

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Which Retravision store quoted $2800 ? I'll go back to JB tomorrow with this quote to see if they will match / better it.

If you are referring to a post I made a few weeks back, it was Retravision Midland.

The sticker price was $2999. After asking for cash price, I was advised $2800.

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Just curious as to what the lowest price for the 42" is so far... from my searching I've been quoted $3400 by JB and $3500+ by HN.

The JB's I have tried all won't budge much more than 3.2 to 3.3k cash. Then they say you won't get a better price than that noone else stocks them (which they're wrong about, but anyway).

Haven't tried a Retravision yet but plan on doing so later in the week, or I'll at least call one and see what they say. $2800 would be a great price. I'm also wanting a unit before the Wii hits

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