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LG 71" SA1D - 180CM LCoS

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See the yellow is your problem and that not good as there has been a few complaint about this and unfortunately in most cases its a engine problem that craws in around 4000 hrs.

As for a little to much red or green or blue that is easy to adjust out as all you do is go to the W_Balance and adjust your RGB offsets there

Hey Golfa,

I too have the same problem. After some help from blackman trying to sort it out (thanks again blackman by the way), I sent it off to a recommended LG repairer, it was the Optical Engine :(

Costing my parents about $1300...$940 for the engine and the rest for labour, they have to reassemble the whole TV...4 hours of work.

Getting it back, next week...

Edited by bowtiehoon

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Hey Golfa,

I too have the same problem. After some help from blackman trying to sort it out (thanks again blackman by the way), I sent it off to a recommended LG repairer, it was the Optical Engine :(

Costing my parents about $1300...$940 for the engine and the rest for labour, they have to reassemble the whole TV...4 hours of work.

Getting it back, next week...

thanks for the good news :angry2: surely LG must have something to say about these engines failing after such a short period, not even 2yo yet. guess I will have to find out where I can buy these engines from, PS Blackman do you think this failed because of overheating, or poor design, or inferior parts?

Thanks for all the input :winky:

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Hey Golfa,

I too have the same problem. After some help from blackman trying to sort it out (thanks again blackman by the way), I sent it off to a recommended LG repairer, it was the Optical Engine :(

Costing my parents about $1300...$940 for the engine and the rest for labour, they have to reassemble the whole TV...4 hours of work.

Getting it back, next week...

Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese all with theses tv's CLEAN the filter, KEEP them off the wall and if you can't devise a way to keep fresh air entering the rear of the TV at the input end, not the lamp exhaust end, because if air if forced in at the lamp exhaust end, it will overheat because one fan is fighting against the other. Again, I originally bought 3 but now I have 4 Jaycar LCD temperature monitors on a 1 metre lead and at the end of the lead I have positioned the probe in appropriate places, like lamp heat sinc, housing temperature, engine temperature via the filter and room temperature and I can guarantee you this, that the engine temperatures go over 55 degrees celcius on an average warm day, which according to my mate is too warm and my opinion is this is what kills them and I am not the only one to have come to this conclusion. I have a 200 millimetre variable speed exhaust fan, typically used in a kitchen, but I have reversed the motor so it blows out, not sucks. It draws the air from a large garage via a large filter on the garage side. Inside the engine, its about 33 degrees on a 28 degree room temperature day, now thats comfortable but if I deliberately turn the fan off, engine temperatures go well and truly over 50 degrees at the same room temperature and if I push the TV and its cabinet nearly touching the wall, the exhaust temperature of the lamp goes through the roof as the exhaust blown out from the fan hits the plaster only to rebound back into the fan, causing the LCD temperature gauge to rise dramatically.

I wrote an article many months ago about the dreaded LG MW60. We all know that the engines in these TV's die by the droves, none of them survive except for my mates who has one and its now approximately 28,000 on the clock and going strong, he also has the identical fan setup like mine. I will have to find the photo and rehost it on photo bucket or something to show you. You will see a fan, a three speed variable speed controller, a 2 pin power point that has a lead entering the TV on the heat sinc on the lamp where there is a Derwent 40 degree normally open thermostat. At the same time, I have a Jaycar digital thermometer on the wall and it is in series with this thermostat, so you can say its automated and idiot proof, its simple, the TV gets hot and the fan automatically starts and out of the 12 months of the year, only one month in Brisbane the fan does not operate.

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Hey Golfa,

I too have the same problem. After some help from blackman trying to sort it out (thanks again blackman by the way), I sent it off to a recommended LG repairer, it was the Optical Engine :(

Costing my parents about $1300...$940 for the engine and the rest for labour, they have to reassemble the whole TV...4 hours of work.

Getting it back, next week...

Make sure the geometry is correct when you get it back, also check the mechanical focus to see if its out. (use blu-ray test disk like DVD essentials, I use AVCHD disk I downloaded off the net it has a ripper of test pattern for this or whatever you have to check it.

PS the geometry is adjusted from the front, Remover the lower fascia (4 screws two each side, unclip and remove and you will notice big fat brass nuts on a stud either side. The rear has the same but they are 13 mm. This adjust the tilt of the chassis and light engine ( I hate watching a blu-ray movie and the black bars are 1 mm or more thicker on one end down the bottom and opposite up the top.

I wonder if they cleaned the filter after replacing the engine, also did you get the old engine back?

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double post EEEKK!!!!

Blackman,

I was wondering if you could check my WBalance_Malibu settings?


[*]Cool, 255,255,255,127,128,127,83

[*]Warm, 255,238,205,127,128,127,83

[*]Medium, 255,248,237,127,128,127,83

Thanks

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Blackman,

I was wondering if you could check my WBalance_Malibu settings?


[*]Cool, 255,255,255,127,128,127,83

[*]Warm, 255,238,205,127,128,127,83

[*]Medium, 255,248,237,127,128,127,83

Thanks

There ok its just the blue offset is a little low, mine are for the offsets Red 126 Green 128 and blue 130. Now remember they vary a little between tv's. this effects your greyscale if out.

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if I push the TV and its cabinet nearly touching the wall, the exhaust temperature of the lamp goes through the roof as the exhaust blown out from the fan hits the plaster only to rebound back into the fan, causing the LCD temperature gauge to rise dramatically.

Blackman,

these sets stick out from the wall far enough as it is. So how much should the back be away from the plaster? I've been about 2" off the wall for about 2000hrs now.

That small vent is so important, eh?

Ted

Edited by Ted

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Blackman,

these sets stick out from the wall far enough as it is. So how much should the back be away from the plaster? I've been about 2" off the wall for about 2000hrs now.

That small vent is so important, eh?

Ted

At that close the hot air bounces off the wall and traps the air from coming out from the lamp. My temp probes tell me that. Like i said mine is (just measured it at 5 inches off the wall) but I have a 200 mm fan blowing air in on the opposite side of the fan causing a air current to flow inside ( looking at rear its anti clockwise air direction) the fan and comes out the same side as the lamp. This way everything inside stays cool.

Edited by Blackman

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I show you two photos.

One photo shows you the fan, distance from the wall to the tv, the jaycar digital thermometer, a powerpoint, under the powerpoint is a two-pin socket that supplies a connection to the thermostat inside the tv on the lamp heatsink. You will see a single powerpoint that feeds the fan and a three speed fan controller.

Photo two shows the filter on the other side of the fan inside the garage. This filter does a very fine job of removing dust particles.(P.s. And my lovely toy on the left hand side. At least one of them. he he he)

Photo One

Photo two

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The difference between a light engine running at 50 - 60 deg C to just 33 - 38 deg C.

Mind you the LG's O/Temp alarm is set I think at 70 deg c and if you ever bring that alarm up with that flashing LED out the front you have cooked the OB. Bye Bye OB. time to spend some $$$$

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I was pre warned before I bought these LCoS tv's

They won't like QLD for two reasons

1/ HOT days (but lets face it, its hot all along the east and west coast of oz)

2/ Humidity. (And my mate was dead right about that as they don't like it over 85% thanks to Jacar Humidity meter)

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Just an update on my situation...

oh man...apparently the optical engine part is $900+ but what they need to do is replace the whole optional engine and it costs $1300 for that alone...does this make sense to anyone?

man i'm depressed...

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Just an update on my situation...

oh man...apparently the optical engine part is $900+ but what they need to do is replace the whole optional engine and it costs $1300 for that alone...does this make sense to anyone?

man i'm depressed...

the rip off price that the Big Warehouse charge for the ob is $1650. They're a little cheaper in Sydney at W.E.S but at the end of the day they will screw you to this $1300 + labor, its a rort . If I was you I would be putting a complaint in about these OB as after 2000 to 3000 hours a few have died because of this yellow tinge disease. You're in NSW ring the appropriate office of fair trading and submit a complaint in that you spend all this money and all it last is around 3500 hrs, put pressure back on LG, contact ACA or today tonight, do what you have to. and if you pay the $1300 + labor to fix it how much guarantee do you get, Will it happen again in another 3500hrs. Also if you go ahead get the old one back.

Part Number 3141VSNJ87A

Edited by Blackman

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the rip off price that the Big Warehouse charge for the ob is $1650. They're a little cheaper in Sydney at W.E.S but at the end of the day they will screw you to this $1300 + labor, its a rort . If I was you I would be putting a complaint in about these OB as after 2000 to 3000 hours a few have died because of this yellow tinge disease. You're in NSW ring the appropriate office of fair trading and submit a complaint in that you spend all this money and all it last is around 3500 hrs, put pressure back on LG, contact ACA or today tonight, do what you have to. and if you pay the $1300 + labor to fix it how much guarantee do you get, Will it happen again in another 3500hrs. Also if you go ahead get the old one back.

I'm starting to think that anything with an OB is a disease.

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I'm starting to think that anything with an OB is a disease.

I had a small bug flying around inside my LG last night so I removed the side covers to suck it out with a vacuum cleaner and I noticed a slight greasy FILM on the mirror + slight dust covering on the lens.

Now I cleaned these spotless 12 months ago and it needed cleaning again. I gave the mirror a slight clean (TV RUNNING) through the inspection holes to remove very fine dust with my telescopic expendable micro fibre cleaner and that removed all the dust but left the greasy slight film that can only be noticed when the tv is running and on bright pics, I cleaned the top of the lens and I noticed immediately that the TV was a lot brighter.

Like i said I cleaned the tv around 12 months ago and it has done just over 1500hrs. This will be my last Rear pro, To much maintenance.

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the rip off price that the Big Warehouse charge for the ob is $1650. They're a little cheaper in Sydney at W.E.S but at the end of the day they will screw you to this $1300 + labor, its a rort . If I was you I would be putting a complaint in about these OB as after 2000 to 3000 hours a few have died because of this yellow tinge disease. You're in NSW ring the appropriate office of fair trading and submit a complaint in that you spend all this money and all it last is around 3500 hrs, put pressure back on LG, contact ACA or today tonight, do what you have to. and if you pay the $1300 + labor to fix it how much guarantee do you get, Will it happen again in another 3500hrs. Also if you go ahead get the old one back.

Part Number 3141VSNJ87A

sigh...we didn't really pay for the TV and got it as a replacement for the old LG 60inch rear projection piece of crap tv from LG...so i don't know if I can complain :(

Basically what was explained to me is that they need to replace a pcb in the optical engine, these pcb boards are manufacture tailored to each optical engine so you can't order them separately. when they ordered the optical engine part, they discovered the optical engine part had mirrors, reflectors blah blah (whatever I wasn't really paying attention) but it didn't have the problematic pcb board that needed replacing..so they have to get the whole optical engine itself in. Basically we're getting a new tellie on the inside...or something like that...

dunno, i was depressed for the whole day, even though its my parents tv and I've moved out, its just still painful, we went through 2 technicians and no one could fix the problem only to find out this..., i loved that TV man, and now it feels like its stabbed me in the back!

anyways its getting late and i'm typing weird things..., this whole experience will make me steer from LG TVs for a long long time...

ps. I have a new love now...LED backlit 9 series Samsung...what I saw it can do in the store was amazing! i've never seen any tv like it...all I could do was stare and say wow...just wow...

Edited by bowtiehoon

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sigh...we didn't really pay for the TV and got it as a replacement for the old LG 60inch rear projection piece of crap tv from LG...so i don't know if I can complain :(

Basically what was explained to me is that they need to replace a pcb in the optical engine, these pcb boards are manufacture tailored to each optical engine so you can't order them separately. when they ordered the optical engine part, they discovered the optical engine part had mirrors, reflectors blah blah (whatever I wasn't really paying attention) but it didn't have the problematic pcb board that needed replacing..so they have to get the whole optical engine itself in. Basically we're getting a new tellie on the inside...or something like that...

dunno, i was depressed for the whole day, even though its my parents tv and I've moved out, its just still painful, we went through 2 technicians and no one could fix the problem only to find out this..., i loved that TV man, and now it feels like its stabbed me in the back!

anyways its getting late and i'm typing weird things..., this whole experience will make me steer from LG TVs for a long long time...

ps. I have a new love now...LED backlit 9 series Samsung...what I saw it can do in the store was amazing! i've never seen any tv like it...all I could do was stare and say wow...just wow...

So you also had one of those Dreaded LG MW 60's? that die, Did you read what I wrote above about my mates MW 60 going strong, did you look at the pictures of my cooling System and the same used by my mate with the long living mw60. When it comes to that PCB board inside the OB the techs are scared to replace it, so they throwaway a complete OB because of their incompetence. Its like saying I have a crook camshaft in my new engine, instead of replacing the crook camshaft worth 200bucks they replaced the complete 6 ltr V 8 engine at your expense $8000. Also if they replace the PCB they have to download data before they do it otherwise there stuffed when they replaced it with the new one. The trouble is nobody knows jack about these OB type tv's today.

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If you go ahead with the new one ask for the old one back.

You know If you lived in the right state I would volunteer my time and come with you at their workshop ( if they allow otherwise I would be at the house telling them to take it back and get another OB)and i would ask them that I want to test the tv before it leaves the workshop.

I would test it first for a greyscale test from ire00 to 100 to see if any colour is leaking through because my mate told me it seems that some of the ones that have this problem of leaking colour at a certain ire setting are the ones to die first. I think Sony man Owen when he bough his Sony SXRD had a OB changed early in its life for the same problem. And I would check it for geometry because this takes time to set up and these donkies don't have time and lastly check the Convergence.

I would check the flicker after the TV has been runnibg for 2 to 3 hours I would check everything.

(ps the flicker adjustment has a trick!! do you know (design fault) you have to adjust it at the start of summer or winter thats twice a year. If not the picture looks like its flickering on some scenes) (ps Check flicker the RGB 4 boxes must match as CLOSE AS POSSIBLE If you have LIGHT DARK LIGHT DARK or DARK LIGHT DARK LIGHT deep shades you're out!!!! I set mine in summer and winter different of both my LG's I wait for at least 1 hr and set them to be the same shade on all three colours.

Edited by Blackman

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I had a small bug flying around inside my LG last night so I removed the side covers to suck it out with a vacuum cleaner and I noticed a slight greasy FILM on the mirror + slight dust covering on the lens.

Now I cleaned these spotless 12 months ago and it needed cleaning again. I gave the mirror a slight clean (TV RUNNING) through the inspection holes to remove very fine dust with my telescopic expendable micro fibre cleaner and that removed all the dust but left the greasy slight film that can only be noticed when the tv is running and on bright pics, I cleaned the top of the lens and I noticed immediately that the TV was a lot brighter.

Like i said I cleaned the tv around 12 months ago and it has done just over 1500hrs. This will be my last Rear pro, To much maintenance.

best way to deal with bugs and roaches is with a bomb every month or so. Now, you'll never get rid of them all forever but you can near and inside your set which could provide big prob per Blackmans words 'bout a year ago if the cocky falls dead on the lens filter(?). When setting bomb off be sure there is somewhere for them to run to that isn't being bombed (so they don't run in your set).

In the meantime, turn off the set on its main switch from 5 mins in standby. The fan will last longer, the filters won't need to be replaced as often, theres nowhere warm 24/7 for the bugs to run to and will save you money. This leaving fan off was initially recommended by Blackman. Turn on set and leave in standby for 5mins before use is recommended and my set is still going after 2000 odd hrs complete with cockroach infestations in this block of units!

Edited by Ted

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best way to deal with bugs and roaches is with a bomb every month or so. Now, you'll never get rid of them all forever but you can near and inside your set which could provide big prob per Blackmans words 'bout a year ago if the cocky falls dead on the lens filter(?). When setting bomb off be sure there is somewhere for them to run to that isn't being bombed (so they don't run in your set).

In the meantime, turn off the set on its main switch from 5 mins in standby. The fan will last longer, the filters won't need to be replaced as often, theres nowhere warm 24/7 for the bugs to run to and will save you money. This leaving fan off was initially recommended by Blackman. Turn on set and leave in standby for 5mins before use is recommended and my set is still going after 2000 odd hrs complete with cockroach infestations in this block of units!

Ted I would love to see your filter, at 2000 hours it would be 50% clogged (if you have a clean house), These filters are to fine, they do a good job but what stuffs me is LG its user manual doesn't say jack about cleaning this filter, but the thick manual its on the first 2 pages in big writing. Like I said I have bought a spare filter and I swap them around every 500 hours and always clean them before summer. As I have just found out by my friend that worked for LG QC not in Australia a lot of these tv are ding from engine problems and most are around 3000 to.4000 hrs on the clock and all have engine failures.

I have two of these sets my lounge room one is used rarely and it has 1600 hrs on it, the living room one has nearly 7000 hours on it (kids always using it) and I just changed its first globe and both tv's have external fans on them.

Ted I feel guilty for your poor TV, if you lived in the right state I would come and clean it for the TV sake. Its so easy its a joke, its case that its black, big, and looks like a part of the engines body so you're scared to touch it. 2 piss fart small 3mm screws and it slides back towards the rear of the tv on slides thats it.

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I might sound a bit paranoid about these Tv's but this is the reason why I will never buy another not that they will ever make them anymore Rear pro tv's why TO MUCH MAINTENANCE REQUIRED TO KEEP THEM AT 99%.

I've notice on all that I have seen that the mirror gets a very slight refection on it after 2000 hours (NOT DUST), THIS CAN ONLY BE WITNESSED IF YOU USE a typical test pattern disc like AVCHD where you can give it the ire treatment and you wind up the blacks to whites from say ire 70 to 100 (WHITE) and this is the perfect time to spot and clean the mirror from the inspection holes. Call me paranoid but this is the way I like things. As far as i'm concerned all rear pros go on a downhill slide if you don't keep the maintenance on them.

The difference that can be made by doing minor work on this tv's is incredible, Clean mirror, clean lens, clean rear of screen all done from the side with CORRECT micro fibre telescopic cleaning material (DO NOT TOUCH OR USES ANYTHING ELSE ON THE MIRROR OTHERWISE YOU WILL SMUDGE IT), but the biggest thing I have ever done to improve the PQ is adjust the mechanical lens focus which is done just behind the front LED panel by unscrewing a 5mm allan screw and slide the collar left or right whilst looking a a test pattern with plenty of bit to small numbers and letters. (AVCHD has it)

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LG mechanical focus.

You remove the front panel, Loosen that allan screw, run AVCHD and use correct test pattens showing numbers and letters from large to very small, have at least one young and older person sitting on the lounge 3m away, you adjust the collar clockwise or anti clockwise and the two on the lounge look at all the numbers and letters around the screen and tell you when the smallest around the screen is the clearest. Tighten the allan screw where its the best and replace front panel. I have not seen one of these tv's yet adjust for the sharpest picture yet.

Ugggg by the was before you do this the Sharpness control adjusted via your norman tv setting must be set between 20 to 30% above 30 it introduces artifacts, below 20 it introduces other crap so the sweet spot is around 20-30%

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I'd be calling Rhiannon, Lea, Trudi or Andrew as problems start occuring. Law covers you for 8 or 10 years in N.S.W. for a fullly operational set and such should be expected if you paid over 7 grand.

Otherwise I'd do as recommended by Blackman and claim for damages/time etc - $100/hr standard rate? - from LG. Whether the 71sa1d is a rarity or not but it seems to be more headed that way unless maintenance is carried out and thats no proviso in the purchase agreement with LG!

A bug leaving a smear on the insides of your set is not your problem, Blackman. Its a design flaw!

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