Jump to content

the 'official' everything XBOX 360 thread


Recommended Posts

Any specials going around at the moment for the 250GB version? My original X-Box just died - RROD :(

Which part died, the power supply, DVD drive or HDD?

You can replace the DVD drive and the HDD... but before you can replace the DVD drive you need to get the firmware code off the existing drive to put on the new one so the new DVD drive is recognized, and use the same type of drive.

Why not just get the 4GB one from the place I did (linked in my previous post) for $169? As it may be cheaper anyway than some places to simply get the 4GB one and put a HDD in yourself... they're only $70 from Honkas or $100 here.

JSmith :ninja:

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's a good point, I'm not sure which part of it died, I didn't know it could be isolated like that. How would I know which part died? I'm going to assume the power supply is ok seeing as it still does fire up. I just put it in the too hard basket, never thought it could be repaired. I might revisit.

I did look at the link you posted above, it is cheap, I might check out the other differences, if any, between that and the 250GB console.

Thanks for the reply :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a Panasonic HD-Ready CRT TX-76PW10A which has component input and can handle 1080i.

I am using a Joytech 540c device switch with component inputs from TiVo (output fixed at 1080i) and DVD (no HD output). These outputs display ok on the TV using the component input.

I just got an XBOX 360 S console and am trying to set the output to 1080i, but I get this http://twitpic.com/bt9cer

The xbox is connected to the Joytech 540c switch using the proprietary cable that came with the Joytech 540c which has an HD/SD switch on it. The switch is set to HD.

My guess is something about the xbox -> Joytech 540c is not working properly, however the Joytech was designed to be able to do this and reviewers said that it worked in their tests.

The Joytech 540c needs to have the component setting for the AV input, and this is set correctly. (The s-video alternative is very washed out colour and no HD options are available in the xbox display settings.)

Any ideas why the xbox display is not working properly at 1080i?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites



most certainly looks like the new xbox is outputting component at 1080i60 as a default, rather than 1080i50. I would switch the cable to SD (so you can navigate), go into component settings, and change it to 1080i50, or 576p (then back up to 1080i50.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your response davep. I don't have those options so I did some more searching based on xbox 1080i 50/60.

I found this step-by-step over at Whirlpool http://whrl.pl/RbzTIf

However I decided to check the Microsoft FAQ referred to in that post.

Microsoft say "If your Xbox 360 console is a PAL console, set your TV to PAL 60." So it looks like changing the xbox to 50hz is not the preferable solution.

The Panasonic TV manual says "We recommend that you set the SCAN MODE to PROGRESSIVE when viewing a PAL 60 or NTSC transmission.

When viewing a PAL transmission (other than PAL 60) with the SCAN MODE set to PROGRESSIVE, the screen will flicker. This is not a fault."

I will check this setting next and also try your suggestion and see what results I get.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Scan Mode on the TV employs the 100hz feature of your set, so if inputting a progressive 480p60 signal, it causes the flicker as described, so better to be refreshed at the natural rate, rather than 100hz.

Im pretty sure these older HD CRT's dont accept 1080i60 properly at all (hence your screen). I remember it was the same with my old Samsung WS32Z10 HD CRT. Microsofts recommendation is due to the reason that some games (I believe) dont support 50hz at all, but i think thats very uncommon. I would certainly first be trying to set your xbox to output 1080i50.

I also think, from memory, that you first select 1080i, then it will try and sync for a few seconds at 60 hz, before changing to 50hz, at which point a menu comes up with something like "is this working/better, hit 'a' to confirm"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried the 100Hz and Progressive toggle last night. It did not seem to make much of a difference. When in AV mode, there was no visible response to pressing the button. When I changed to TV mode I could see the option and setting appearing on the TV. So I set it there and then switched back to AV mode.

I also tried 1080i50/60 toggling. Interestingly, in 1080i/60 mode the output was stable, just not an intelligible picture (as per prior screen shot).

In 1080i/50 mode the picture was still not intelligible (as per prior screen shot) but also had some left <-> right funky oscillation happening.

Surely if I can view TiVo HD output (format fixed 1080i) then the TV is able to support some form of 1080i?

I'm thinking of grabbing an xbox 360 component cable to try instead of Joytech's proprietary one and going straight to the TV to see if that makes any difference. Does anyone have one (in Sydney?) that I can borrow for the test?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Just picked up 4gb Xbox for $138 BigW

Whilst I realise new Xbox on the way, I wanted one for my Sydney apartment (I commute weekly).

Then when I realised I would need to spend $60 for a second controller, I decided to get a second console for $138 and give it to the kids for their rumpus room!!! (Net $78 seemed good for a second console that the kids and I can link)

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top