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The new DVDO iScan VP30 Video Processor


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Hi Norpus,

The only exception to this maybe the newer upscaling DVD players fitted with the Faroudja chipset. This chipset is purportedly better at motion de-interlacing than the Silicon Optix chipset currently used in the VP30. I've found that my OPPO, which has the Faroudja chipset, looks much the same using either 567p, 720p or 1080i. I've chosen 576p as then the Oppo does at least no upscaling which the VP30 is better at. I'd love a 576i output to make a true comparison wrt de-interlacing. Yes, I know I could select 1080i, but then I have the Oppo upscaling the image before the VP30 receives it, then the the VP30 downscaling it again to my native 768 lines. A bit like watching an SD channel on your HD STB which is set at 1080i output res, feeding into the VP30 - a double conversion process.

Phil.

Phil,

I can tell you that there is a significant difference when you feed it 576i. My Pioneer 969 is able to do 576i via the HDMI output and when I feed that into the VP30, it does a brilliant job, particularly with poorer quality DVD's.

The picture is a lot less "noisy" than when using the 969's built-in scaler and is definitely sharper, particularly with low bitrate DVD's.

I believe that Denon will now be using the ABT Scaling & de-interlacing technology in their top-end DVD Player (Ithink it's called the DVD-5910). As far as I know the Pioneer 969 is one of the few players that can output 576i via a digital output.

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Phil,

I can tell you that there is a significant difference when you feed it 576i. My Pioneer 969 is able to do 576i via the HDMI output and when I feed that into the VP30, it does a brilliant job, particularly with poorer quality DVD's.

The picture is a lot less "noisy" than when using the 969's built-in scaler and is definitely sharper, particularly with low bitrate DVD's.

I believe that Denon will now be using the ABT Scaling & de-interlacing technology in their top-end DVD Player (Ithink it's called the DVD-5910). As far as I know the Pioneer 969 is one of the few players that can output 576i via a digital output.

Thanks Foggy.

Do you know what deinterlacer and scaler chipset is being used in your Pio 969?

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Quick question for all. Now I have VP30 with SDI mod kit which I have not yet dare to install it....anyway back to the question.... do I still need a decent/expensive DVD player or can I just get a dvd that can be moded with SDI output? Logically, we won't be using any of the enhancement/scaling/progressive output features on high end dvd players but SDI output to do 480i/576i output to VP30. so as long as it plays DivX and region free and SDI modifiable will do? or am I worng here?

Thanks all in advance. Has anyone got SDI DVD and VP30???

Also where is the fix for 1080i??? could not see on the DVDO site. Could anyone give me a link pls? Thank you.

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Guest Sparky66

AussieX3,

As long as you have a decent transport system with mpeg decoder in your dvd player and it can be modded for extracting interlaced 480i/576i output ( stay away from upconverting/ scaling players) your ready to go.

On the other hand if you have a dvd player that can output interlaced 480i/576i video via HDMI , SDI'ing your player won't be necessary - very few DVD players offer interlaced via HDMI, only progressive !

The exceptions are most of the recent Pioneers, Arcam DV29 / 79 or Meridian. Denon, I believe ,don't have this feature !

Who will modify your player with SDI ?

Have you looked at ? ... SDI Modding scroll down and check list of compatible players they mod !!!

Also , if I understand correctly the 1080i bug fix is only needed if you input 1080i and then try to output 1080i via the VP30.

If you still need it I can can email it to you - ***at your own risk***

Quick question for all. Now I have VP30 with SDI mod kit which I have not yet dare to install it....anyway back to the question.... do I still need a decent/expensive DVD player or can I just get a dvd that can be moded with SDI output? Logically, we won't be using any of the enhancement/scaling/progressive output features on high end dvd players but SDI output to do 480i/576i output to VP30. so as long as it plays DivX and region free and SDI modifiable will do? or am I worng here?

Thanks all in advance. Has anyone got SDI DVD and VP30???

Also where is the fix for 1080i??? could not see on the DVDO site. Could anyone give me a link pls? Thank you.

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It wouldn't hurt to have the 1080i patch installed anyways, would it?

Also where is the fix for 1080i??? could not see on the DVDO site. Could anyone give me a link pls? Thank you.

They said they're not posting it on their website for now.

The 1080i bug is a hardware problem that resulted in an even input field producing an odd output field and vice versa.

When the input and output field rates are not the same, there's a potential problem. Since there is no longer just 1 output field for every input field, it will not be the case that an even(odd) input field produces an even(odd) output field. At some times, due to the frame rate conversion hardware repeating or dropping frames (well, fields in this case), the processing will produce the desired even-to-even and odd-to-odd input/output field relationship, but at others it will produce an even-to-odd and old-to-even relationship. When the non-matching field sense occurs you will see a degradation in the image, and the processor will drift in and out of this mode.

We will not have this posted on our website tonight as I previously stated, but if you would like the software please send me an email (Josh@dvdo.com) and I will get it to you within 24 hours (probably much less).

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Ok, get the point or your problem to be more precise. Take it you saw my edit re ASPECT controls - just mention it here again in case that will help solve the pulsating curtain.

Seems as if the VP30 is sensing 2 aspect ratios continuously and is adjusting itself as a response to that.

Let's get back to basics first. How is your J35 or other STB working? Is it only the Toppy that is making the VP30 behave this way? When you go to the Output config menu screen - does that give you full 16:9 without any "curtaining?

Phil, thanks for the suggestions in the various posts you made.

Tracked the problem down to having HDCP enabled on OUTPUT. I had assumed this was the correct setting to use in that the Toshiba J35 would possibly be expecting a 'passthrough' of HDCP support (i.e. from J35 to VP30 to Pioneer 504). Turning it off fixed the problem, though I'm not quite why there is a problem in the first place.

It's as though the VP30 is checking the Pioneer for HDCP compliance, not finding it immediately and so starts to close the curtain, but then it DOES see that it compliant then starts to open the curtain. The manual says the VP30 CONSTANTLY checks for HDCP compliance so it suggests that it's going through a cycling process...i.e. rechecking and not finding it, then momentarily finding it a second later. I double checked the cycling rate - it's more like 1 cycle/sec.

Think I've got the aspect ratio stuff under control - enough to be able to get things working as I want. Very cool to be able to resize at will...both horizontally and vertically.

Thanks again.

Cliff

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snip.....

Tracked the problem down to having HDCP enabled on OUTPUT. I had assumed this was the correct setting to use in that the Toshiba J35 would possibly be expecting a 'passthrough' of HDCP support (i.e. from J35 to VP30 to Pioneer 504). Turning it off fixed the problem, though I'm not quite why there is a problem in the first place.

It's as though the VP30 is checking the Pioneer for HDCP compliance, not finding it immediately and so starts to close the curtain, but then it DOES see that it compliant then starts to open the curtain. The manual says the VP30 CONSTANTLY checks for HDCP compliance so it suggests that it's going through a cycling process...i.e. rechecking and not finding it, then momentarily finding it a second later. I double checked the cycling rate - it's more like 1 cycle/sec.

Think I've got the aspect ratio stuff under control - enough to be able to get things working as I want. Very cool to be able to resize at will...both horizontally and vertically.

Thanks again.

Cliff

Great you got it all working in the end Cliff. Surprised myself that HDCP ON was not the correct setting for your display. Like you, I would have thought that the output setting to your display would have to be set with HDCP ON. I take it that you now only have the input to which you have connected the J35 to HDCP ON, and that when you turn it OFF, you get the curtain? I know through the forums that quite a few people are having issues with HDCP displays, so maybe this inconsistent behaviour is a quirk that will be fixed in one of the upcoming firmware updates.

I did have an HDCP issue myself you may have read about on in one of my previous posts. My display is non-HDCP compliant as are all of my other toys. However, I had inadvertently left the HDMI input to which my Strong 5400 STB is connected to its default HDCP ON.

The behaviour with HDCP ON was that is was taking up to 5 seconds to switch between a component source (no HDCP at all of course on this input) and the HDMI 1 input to which the Strong was connected. So, in my case, the VP30 was looking for a HDCP signature from the Strong, but after not finding it after some time, decided to pass the signal. I did not have any "curtaining" during this long switch-over - just a blue screen.

Will be interesting to hear from you if you have any more issues with HDCP giving you problems of any sort. Like Aussie and others who have helped us get true 1:1 pixel mapping on many of the Fuji panels, your findings and experiences will be of great help to many forumites.

Cheers,

Phil.

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AussieX3,

As long as you have a decent transport system with mpeg decoder in your dvd player and it can be modded for extracting interlaced 480i/576i output ( stay away from upconverting/ scaling players) your ready to go.

On the other hand if you have a dvd player that can output interlaced 480i/576i video via HDMI , SDI'ing your player won't be necessary - very few DVD players offer interlaced via HDMI, only progressive !

The exceptions are most of the recent Pioneers, Arcam DV29 / 79 or Meridian. Denon, I believe ,don't have this feature !

Who will modify your player with SDI ?

Have you looked at ? ... SDI Modding scroll down and check list of compatible players they mod !!!

Also , if I understand correctly the 1080i bug fix is only needed if you input 1080i and then try to output 1080i via the VP30.

If you still need it I can can email it to you - ***at your own risk***

Thanks for your quick response sparky. ok now i have better understanding of what to look for on dvd. yes I had a look at the sdi modding thread.

Oh.. the bug fix won't be required for me then.. I am outputting my VP30 at native resolution (1360*768)

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The behaviour with HDCP ON was that is was taking up to 5 seconds to switch between a component source (no HDCP at all of course on this input) and the HDMI 1 input to which the Strong was connected. So, in my case, the VP30 was looking for a HDCP signature from the Strong, but after not finding it after some time, decided to pass the signal. I did not have any "curtaining" during this long switch-over - just a blue screen.

I have this 5 second delay with my Force 705T, but without my VP30 on my Fuji only on HDMI but I haven't tried the component inputs to see if theres a delay. When I got to other Video inputs like my VCR & DVD, it does it straight away. Gets annoying, sometimes it says Certifying HDMI on the screen during the 5 seconds so I'm wondering is this message from my Fuji or from my Force??

Is this 5 second delay normal??

Cheers,

Ash.

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I have this 5 second delay with my Force 705T, but without my VP30 on my Fuji only on HDMI but I haven't tried the component inputs to see if theres a delay. When I got to other Video inputs like my VCR & DVD, it does it straight away. Gets annoying, sometimes it says Certifying HDMI on the screen during the 5 seconds so I'm wondering is this message from my Fuji or from my Force??

Is this 5 second delay normal??

Cheers,

Ash.

Hi Ash,

I would not have thought so. I found that if you turn HDCP OFF on both input and output, the switchover time is just about as fast (about 1 sec) between any HDMI input and any of the component or s-video or video inputs, as it is switching just between component, s-video or video inputs. Now the Force HD STB does not have HDCP on it any of its digital output(s), , so unless you have any other source that is HDCP enabled, you should be able to run your whole VP30 setup with HDCP turned OFF.

I think the "Certifying HDCP" message is coming from your display panel - I've not seen that coming out of the VP30 nor did I ever see it from the Force for the short while I had it. The VP30 usually draws the curtain if it's not happy with HDCP authentication. Maybe you have to set the VP30 to have HDCP ON in the output, but have it OFF on the input. Anyway, have a fiddle with the HDCP settings on your VP30 on both input and output settings.

Phil.

P.S. I found the Force showed quite a bit of banding at scaled resolutions, so I would set it to 576i and let the VP30 do the up-scaling/de-interlacing.

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I take it that you now only have the input to which you have connected the J35 to HDCP ON, and that when you turn it OFF, you get the curtain?

This was another surprise - I don't have HDCP ON active for the J35. I would have thought the J35 would have insisted on it before allowing a signal to pass to the VP30, but it doesn't.

If I do set on HDCP ON for the J35, I need to set HDCP ON for output otherwise the curtain will close totally. However, if I do that, then I'm back to the pulsating grey curtain problem. I should follow this up on the AVS forum - maybe Josh will pick up the issue.

Cheers,

Cliff

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I take it that you now only have the input to which you have connected the J35 to HDCP ON, and that when you turn it OFF, you get the curtain?

This was another surprise - I don't have HDCP ON active for the J35. I would have thought the J35 would have insisted on it before allowing a signal to pass to the VP30, but it doesn't.

If I do set on HDCP ON for the J35, I need to set HDCP ON for output otherwise the curtain will close totally. However, if I do that, then I'm back to the pulsating grey curtain problem. I should follow this up on the AVS forum - maybe Josh will pick up the issue.

Cheers,

Cliff

Hey Cliff, maybe this is a "bug" in the firmware - the ability to pass through an HDCP enabled source to a non-HDCP display. I wouldn't complain about it :blink: Fantastic news for guys like me who don't have HDCP compliant displays.

Phil.

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Thanks Foggy.

Do you know what deinterlacer and scaler chipset is being used in your Pio 969?

Sorry Phil, I must have missed this question. I believe it's a proprietary scaler from Pioneer.

There's heaps of good info about this player in this thread started by ritesh.

I have this 5 second delay with my Force 705T, but without my VP30 on my Fuji only on HDMI but I haven't tried the component inputs to see if theres a delay. When I got to other Video inputs like my VCR & DVD, it does it straight away. Gets annoying, sometimes it says Certifying HDMI on the screen during the 5 seconds so I'm wondering is this message from my Fuji or from my Force??

Is this 5 second delay normal??

Cheers,

Ash.

Ash, the "Certifying HDMI" message is coming from your Fuji.

I believe that the HDCP cannot be turned off on the Fuji's HDMI input, so it will always attempt to "handshake" with the source device when you change to that input (Video5).

If the source device is not HDCP enabled, then the signal will be accepted unencrypted. I suspect that the handshaking process needs to be done regardless to determine if the source device is HDCP enabled.

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Can I just point out something that I don't think has been stated on this forum yet...(I may be wrong)

The DVDO is not going to produce a MASSIVE improvement on every panel it is used with. Those with Pioneer Plasma's for example will see very little improvement due to the fact that they have rather good scalers in them already.

So perhaps, and i mean perhaps, those who are not experiencing that WOW, may have a panel with a fairly good scaler in it.

Me on the other hand, I have a SHARP LCD which is a brilliant panel, with a poor scaler in it. So for me, the results are WOW. I will never watch a DVD without a scaler, ever. The improvement is truly stunning.

Just a thought, you may return to your normal viewing now.......

Hey StratMan :P

I'm interested in the details of exactly which aspects of the Sharp LCD's picture are better using the VP30 as opposed to your previous direct connections. Also if you could, lets us know what you run into the VP30 and how.

I was always of the belief that the VP30 would make more difference to LCDs than plasmas, so your news is great news.

Many thanks in advance. :blink:

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Hey StratMan :P

I'm interested in the details of exactly which aspects of the Sharp LCD's picture are better using the VP30 as opposed to your previous direct connections. Also if you could, lets us know what you run into the VP30 and how.

I was always of the belief that the VP30 would make more difference to LCDs than plasmas, so your news is great news.

Many thanks in advance. :blink:

Stevob,

No Problem.

Firstly, I run a Myryad Z-122 DVD player via Component in - results? Stunning, smooth image. No more banding on scaled DVD images, playback of PAL and NTSC through this is far superior than straight in. Detail is much better as well. Bottom line - I no longer sit there watching a DVD and cringing at the image artifacts of the DVD compression etc.

Secondly - I feed a G5 PowerMac via DVI with a HDMI converter. This is where I am not as happy. G5 straight in is better. When I had a HD+ Scaler with pass through it all woked much better. I probably need to tweak this one a bit more to be as happy, but it is acceptable for now.

Thirdly - I run a Force 705 HD Set-top box via DVI with a HDMI converter. This is where things get really interesting. My results here go against everything I belieive to be true about image quality. I believe you ar ebetter to start with as much information (ie: 1920 x 1080) and scale that down to your panels res, which in my case is 1366 x768. And while it is still true in terms of the results, I find myself leaving the STB set to 576i out and watch the SD channels only.

Why? Because there is something very seductive about the resulting picture with it set this way. EVERYTHING looks good, regardless of what they are broadcasting. THIS IS WHERE THE SCALING ABILITY OF THE VP-30 SHOWS IT'S TRUE ABILITY

With the STB going directly into the Sharp LCD, and set to 1080 output, you are constantly noticing the changes in image quality as the content being broadcast jumps from SD to Really Crappy SD (why?), and then to HD.

I just find I stop cringing once again at the crappy image before me, and I am really enjoying the seamlessness of show to show, in terms of image quality.

Now is it better to run the 1080 form STB into VP-30 and scale it down to the LCD res? YES. But it is marginal, and you then have the STB scaling SD material to HD, and then the VP-30 scaling back down again, so there is simply too much scaling going on. But, yes HD looks good!

I hope this helps, if you want any more info let me know.

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Sorry Phil, I must have missed this question. I believe it's a proprietary scaler from Pioneer.

There's heaps of good info about this player in this thread started by ritesh.

Foggy, thanks for that. Looks like a great player for most people who are unfortunate enough not to own a VP30. :P

The problem is that my humble $340 OPPO player still seems to be coming out above the Denon 5910 in quality as well as playable formats, DVI non-HDCP and region code free, so there would seem little point in me updating my DVD player - see:

http://www.oppodigital.com/images/DVD%20Benchmark%201-8.pdf

and so my dilema is still the same - knowing if the VP30 de-interlacer will do a better job than the Genesis Faroudja chipset used in the Oppo. The analog component output from the Oppo is pretty crap, so, although interlaced, doesn't really give me a good idea. I really need someone to have done this comparison - Digital DVI or HDMI at 576i versus 576p from a Genesis equiped DVD player.

You have the Pio at 576i HDMI and I have the Oppo at 576p. Maybe we should get together one day and do a test. Had Marcelo over here last week, so I've got over the shock of meeting someone from the forum face to face :blink::P:P If 576i is better, than I feel comfortable in trying to get the Oppo SDI'd by the Euro crowd - around $600 odd. Still good value for a DVD player even with this addition compared to any other DVD player it would seem.

Phil.

P.S. Just remembered that my display is non- HDCP, so if your player puts out HDCP, we could be in trouble. But, hey, if Cliff can get his J35 to talk to his Fuji with HDCP disabled on both input and output, we could be in luck. One way to find out!!

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Stevob,

No Problem.

Firstly, I run a Myryad Z-122 DVD player via Component in - results? Stunning, smooth image. No more banding on scaled DVD images, playback of PAL and NTSC through this is far superior than straight in. Detail is much better as well. Bottom line - I no longer sit there watching a DVD and cringing at the image artifacts of the DVD compression etc.

Secondly - I feed a G5 PowerMac via DVI with a HDMI converter. This is where I am not as happy. G5 straight in is better. When I had a HD+ Scaler with pass through it all woked much better. I probably need to tweak this one a bit more to be as happy, but it is acceptable for now.

Thirdly - I run a Force 705 HD Set-top box via DVI with a HDMI converter. This is where things get really interesting. My results here go against everything I belieive to be true about image quality. I believe you ar ebetter to start with as much information (ie: 1920 x 1080) and scale that down to your panels res, which in my case is 1366 x768. And while it is still true in terms of the results, I find myself leaving the STB set to 576i out and watch the SD channels only.

Why? Because there is something very seductive about the resulting picture with it set this way. EVERYTHING looks good, regardless of what they are broadcasting. THIS IS WHERE THE SCALING ABILITY OF THE VP-30 SHOWS IT'S TRUE ABILITY

With the STB going directly into the Sharp LCD, and set to 1080 output, you are constantly noticing the changes in image quality as the content being broadcast jumps from SD to Really Crappy SD (why?), and then to HD.

I just find I stop cringing once again at the crappy image before me, and I am really enjoying the seamlessness of show to show, in terms of image quality.

Now is it better to run the 1080 form STB into VP-30 and scale it down to the LCD res? YES. But it is marginal, and you then have the STB scaling SD material to HD, and then the VP-30 scaling back down again, so there is simply too much scaling going on. But, yes HD looks good!

I hope this helps, if you want any more info let me know.

Thanks so much for doing that StratMan.

Just one more question. Do you watch the cricket, and if so, how much better is it when the camera is panning?

Thanks again.

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Thanks so much for doing that StratMan.

Just one more question. Do you watch the cricket, and if so, how much better is it when the camera is panning?

Thanks again.

I don't and nor do I watch the football which also suffers the same problems on panning. The thing is you do not get the problems panning on SD, therefore when it is scaled, it is scaling a non pixelised image and therefore works well. So YES it is much better. I have yet to see ANY pixelisation runnning the system the way I have described.

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I don't and nor do I watch the football which also suffers the same problems on panning. The thing is you do not get the problems panning on SD, therefore when it is scaled, it is scaling a non pixelised image and therefore works well. So YES it is much better. I have yet to see ANY pixelisation runnning the system the way I have described.

Awesome. Thanks StratMan. :blink:

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Foggy, thanks for that. Looks like a great player for most people who are unfortunate enough not to own a VP30. :P

The problem is that my humble $340 OPPO player still seems to be coming out above the Denon 5910 in quality as well as playable formats, DVI non-HDCP and region code free, so there would seem little point in me updating my DVD player - see:

http://www.oppodigital.com/images/DVD%20Benchmark%201-8.pdf

and so my dilema is still the same - knowing if the VP30 de-interlacer will do a better job than the Genesis Faroudja chipset used in the Oppo. The analog component output from the Oppo is pretty crap, so, although interlaced, doesn't really give me a good idea. I really need someone to have done this comparison - Digital DVI or HDMI at 576i versus 576p from a Genesis equiped DVD player.

You have the Pio at 576i HDMI and I have the Oppo at 576p. Maybe we should get together one day and do a test. Had Marcelo over here last week, so I've got over the shock of meeting someone from the forum face to face :blink::P:D If 576i is better, than I feel comfortable in trying to get the Oppo SDI'd by the Euro crowd - around $600 odd. Still good value for a DVD player even with this addition compared to any other DVD player it would seem.

Phil.

P.S. Just remembered that my display is non- HDCP, so if your player puts out HDCP, we could be in trouble. But, hey, if Cliff can get his J35 to talk to his Fuji with HDCP disabled on both input and output, we could be in luck. One way to find out!!

I'm not convinced about the SDI mod being much better than a 576i digital output into the VP30 Phil. Just quickly crunching the numbers; if the 969 can be had for a street price of around $900, I think it's better value than $340 for the Oppo and another $600 for the SDI mod on the player, plus another $210 for the SDI kit for the VP30. But I suppose if you already have the VP30 SDI kit and the Oppo, then $600 is cheaper than $900..... ahhh the power of hindsight! :P

I would love to catch up 'in person' Phil, and maybe have a little GTG to compare equipment and advice. Feel free to PM me to make arrangements.

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hi all,

I have unfortunately struck a new issue with my VP30;

I can no longer get any output from the VP30 for any of my source devices, when the source devices are connected via the component inputs on the VP30.

I have tried PAL (DVD player, STB) & NTSC (xbox) sources, but nothing.

The LED on the VP30 remains green/yellow (indicates unrecognised source), however the sources are simply 576i or 480i/p.

I have tried each of my source devices via both component inputs on the VP30, with two sets of cables.

I have also verified that each of my sources are in working order via direct connect to the panel (no probs there). Also, if I connect one of these sources to the VP30 via another style of input (s-video, composite), I can get a picture out of the VP30 - but nothing when connecting via component.

I have also done a factory-defaults/reset of the VP30 - still nothing.

Have also tried every combination of power-cycling the VP30, source devices etc, and also flipping between inputs on panel/VP30 in case something was "stuck".

Thinking this is a hardware issue - wondering if anyone experienced this, or if any suggestions?

thanks

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hi all,

I have unfortunately struck a new issue with my VP30;

I can no longer get any output from the VP30 for any of my source devices, when the source devices are connected via the component inputs on the VP30.

I have tried PAL (DVD player, STB) & NTSC (xbox) sources, but nothing.

The LED on the VP30 remains green/yellow (indicates unrecognised source), however the sources are simply 576i or 480i/p.

I have tried each of my source devices via both component inputs on the VP30, with two sets of cables.

I have also verified that each of my sources are in working order via direct connect to the panel (no probs there). Also, if I connect one of these sources to the VP30 via another style of input (s-video, composite), I can get a picture out of the VP30 - but nothing when connecting via component.

I have also done a factory-defaults/reset of the VP30 - still nothing.

Have also tried every combination of power-cycling the VP30, source devices etc, and also flipping between inputs on panel/VP30 in case something was "stuck".

Thinking this is a hardware issue - wondering if anyone experienced this, or if any suggestions?

thanks

pandemik, is this a case of "perfect one minute and having touched nothing, kaput the next? No extra cables added, like into the sync inputs of the component connector bank?

Just as an aside, when I hooked up my PC to the VP30 via the RGBHV connectors, I couldn't get anything but a green LED out and nothing but a blue screen on the display. Turned out I had the Hoz and Vert Sync lines reversed. Picture out of PC onto the display is just brilliant by the way, but you must comply with standard VESA resolution numbers for it to scale properly. You can use the Aspect and Zoom menus to fiddle around to get the screen to fill to your desires. Does the RGBHV input still work pandemik?

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pandemik, is this a case of "perfect one minute and having touched nothing, kaput the next? No extra cables added, like into the sync inputs of the component connector bank?

Just as an aside, when I hooked up my PC to the VP30 via the RGBHV connectors, I couldn't get anything but a green LED out and nothing but a blue screen on the display. Turned out I had the Hoz and Vert Sync lines reversed. Picture out of PC onto the display is just brilliant by the way, but you must comply with standard VESA resolution numbers for it to scale properly. You can use the Aspect and Zoom menus to fiddle around to get the screen to fill to your desires. Does the RGBHV input still work pandemik?

yep, basically "kaput the next"

even stripped the VP30 of ANY other connection (other than connection to panel) to be sure

i noticed that the vp30 was extremely hot to touch, much hotter than i would expect - its not even stuck in a cabinet with other devices - how hot (if at all) does yours get dude?

so anyway, i have unplugged it, letting it cool off - see what happens after a while.

(have not tried RGBHV recently - gunna wait until it cool down etc...)

cheers )

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yep, basically "kaput the next"

even stripped the VP30 of ANY other connection (other than connection to panel) to be sure

i noticed that the vp30 was extremely hot to touch, much hotter than i would expect - its not even stuck in a cabinet with other devices - how hot (if at all) does yours get dude?

so anyway, i have unplugged it, letting it cool off - see what happens after a while.

(have not tried RGBHV recently - gunna wait until it cool down etc...)

cheers )

Hmmmm.... you got a voltmeter handy? Just to check the power supply output hasn't gone balistic. Mine gets pretty warm when running - about 50 deg C [you can keep your hand on it continuously], but in a cabinet. Out of the cabinet, as far as I remember, the HD+ ran fairly cool - top surface temp about 35 deg C. In the cabinet I have the unit supported on some extra rubber feet to keep the bottom away from the Oppo below - about 40mm gap in total and about 25mm on top.

Funny you should have a prob with component only. I had a prob with component also in the HD+. Gave intermittant glitches on one of the inputs. Lenexpo sent over a spare set of PCBs and that fixed the problem. Maybe your supplier could do the same - saves a lot of hassle and is cheaper and much quicker than sending the whole unit back.

Have fun, :blink: and definitely no port for this one.

Phil.

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Hmmmm.... you got a voltmeter handy? Just to check the power supply output hasn't gone balistic. Mine gets pretty warm when running - about 50 deg C [you can keep your hand on it continuously], but in a cabinet. Out of the cabinet, as far as I remember, the HD+ ran fairly cool - top surface temp about 35 deg C. In the cabinet I have the unit supported on some extra rubber feet to keep the bottom away from the Oppo below - about 40mm gap in total and about 25mm on top.

Funny you should have a prob with component only. I had a prob with component also in the HD+. Gave intermittant glitches on one of the inputs. Lenexpo sent over a spare set of PCBs and that fixed the problem. Maybe your supplier could do the same - saves a lot of hassle and is cheaper and much quicker than sending the whole unit back.

Have fun, :blink: and definitely no port for this one.

Phil.

well there you go

having pulled the power out of the back, let it cool down for about 30mins, am now getting the all-holy blue-light again, and hence am getting video out of the VP30 for the component inputs.

to be honest, not sure if it was a heat issue, or just the act of pulling the power cable out of the back of it.

if (when) it happens again, will simply go the plug-pull option to see if that solves it

thanks again phil for your suggestions, unfortunately no voltmeter handy, so no way to check all okay with power aspect - will keep an eye on it, although I think I'll need something "harder" than port to survive owning this VP30 ahaha

cheers :P

Edited by pandemik
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and so my dilema is still the same - knowing if the VP30 de-interlacer will do a better job than the Genesis Faroudja chipset used in the Oppo. The analog component output from the Oppo is pretty crap, so, although interlaced, doesn't really give me a good idea. I really need someone to have done this comparison - Digital DVI or HDMI at 576i versus 576p from a Genesis equiped DVD player.

If there's really a question here on whether the Oppo can scale and de-interlace as well as the VP30 then I'm afraid you have all been duped. But I'm not really that worried, I've no doubt at what a standalone scaler/deinterlacer from DVDO can achieve. I am not talking quoted stat's of chipsets here, rather results.

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If there's really a question here on whether the Oppo can scale and de-interlace as well as the VP30 then I'm afraid you have all been duped. But I'm not really that worried, I've no doubt at what a standalone scaler/deinterlacer from DVDO can achieve. I am not talking quoted stat's of chipsets here, rather results.

Ah nobby, it's a question here of caviar and grange - the holy grail - the nirvara :blink:

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If there's really a question here on whether the Oppo can scale and de-interlace as well as the VP30 then I'm afraid you have all been duped. But I'm not really that worried, I've no doubt at what a standalone scaler/deinterlacer from DVDO can achieve. I am not talking quoted stat's of chipsets here, rather results.

im having trouble "reading between the lines", so please excuse my question of clarification :blink:

you are saying the Oppo is as good/better for scaling/de-interlacing of DVDs as played via it, or..?

cheers :P

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well there you go

having pulled the power out of the back, let it cool down for about 30mins, am now getting the all-holy blue-light again, and hence am getting video out of the VP30 for the component inputs.

to be honest, not sure if it was a heat issue, or just the act of pulling the power cable out of the back of it.

if (when) it happens again, will simply go the plug-pull option to see if that solves it

thanks again phil for your suggestions, unfortunately no voltmeter handy, so no way to check all okay with power aspect - will keep an eye on it, although I think I'll need something "harder" than port to survive owning this VP30 ahaha

cheers :blink:

Zeee.... sounds like u rn't having much fun with this gear at all dude.

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im having trouble "reading between the lines", so please excuse my question of clarification :D

you are saying the Oppo is as good/better for scaling/de-interlacing of DVDs as played via it, or..?

cheers :P

Hi pandemik,

No, simply that we are talking here about very small differences (if any) between the Oppo's and VP30's de-interlacing capability - we are testing for the holy grail. The Oppo uses the genesis Faroudja chipset which is purportedly better at motion de-interlacing of film material. The VP30 uses the Silicon Optix's chipset which is purportedly better at video de-interlacing. Note that we are talking about de-interlacing performance only here - not scaling as well which I think the VP30 is better at for all material.

The proof has to be in the pudding (best laced with some port or "harder stuff"... well the "harder stuff" might have to wait until we finish the test), which is why I suggested that Foggy and I get together to compare these 2 technologies. He has a DVD player which he can set to give no picture processing at all, giving its output as raw 576i via HDMI. We feed this into the VP30 and look at the picture. The VP30 is doing all the de-interlacing and scaling up to my display's 1280 x768 native res.

We now connect my Oppo to the VP30 at 576p. It has no 576i output, so we have to use 576p. This means that the Oppo has already performed the de-interlacing and the VP30 is left to do the scaling only (up to the same res as before).

Now, I doubt that we will see much of a difference (and it will probably also depend on the DVDs we will use in the test), but you never know. Perhaps the difference will become more evident after we have some more pudding and "hard stuff". :P

All this so that I can make up my mind whether to spend another $600 or so on my Oppo and add SDI output capability which will give me 576i out (so that the VP30 can do the de-interlacing). That's of course if Foggy wins. :P Don't know what we'll do if Foggy looses :P Any sggestions? Sorry, too much port already :P

P.S. Sorry pandemik, defintely too much port already -see that I've been answering nobby on your behalf. :blink:

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Don't know what we'll do if Foggy loses :blink: Any suggestions? Sorry, too much port already :P

:P Phil, you're right about too much port... I had to fix up a couple of spelling mistakes in the above quote!

If Foggy loses, he'll still be very happy because he still needs to buy a new DVD player for his new HT :P and the $340 Oppo is a fair saving over the $900 Pioneer*.

_____________________________________________________________________

* Although the Pioneer still has a heap more really nice features particularly for sound.

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im having trouble "reading between the lines", so please excuse my question of clarification :blink:

you are saying the Oppo is as good/better for scaling/de-interlacing of DVDs as played via it, or..?

cheers :P

I was saying that good deinterlacing is about more than just the chipset, and if it happens that you find a $300 dvd player to be deinterlacing or scaling better (results, not chipsets) then you have been duped in purchasing a $3000 scaler!

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I would not have thought so. I found that if you turn HDCP OFF on both input and output, the switchover time is just about as fast (about 1 sec) between any HDMI input and any of the component or s-video or video inputs, as it is switching just between component, s-video or video inputs. Now the Force HD STB does not have HDCP on it any of its digital output(s), , so unless you have any other source that is HDCP enabled, you should be able to run your whole VP30 setup with HDCP turned OFF.

Hey JPP. I think I got mis-interpreted. I meant to say I have this 5 second delay with no VP30 connected, just my Force 705T via DVI-HDMI to my Fuji, and everytime I switch to Video 5 from another Video input, it takes about 5 seconds, with sometimes a message saying "Certifying HDMI".

Ash, the "Certifying HDMI" message is coming from your Fuji.

I believe that the HDCP cannot be turned off on the Fuji's HDMI input, so it will always attempt to "handshake" with the source device when you change to that input (Video5).

If the source device is not HDCP enabled, then the signal will be accepted unencrypted. I suspect that the handshaking process needs to be done regardless to determine if the source device is HDCP enabled.

Thanks Foghorn17. OK now that I know the message is from my Fuji as I got reminded my Force 705T is not HDCP compliant anyways, is it still normal??

I mean do you cop this too Foghorn17??

Or do you have AUSID like most others with Fuji??

EDIT: whoops, wasn't logged in when reading the replies so I didn't see your signature to know you do indeed have an AUSID STB.

Cheers,

Ash.

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Hi pandemik,

No, simply that we are talking here about very small differences (if any) between the Oppo's and VP30's de-interlacing capability - we are testing for the holy grail. The Oppo uses the genesis Faroudja chipset which is purportedly better at motion de-interlacing of film material. The VP30 uses the Silicon Optix's chipset which is purportedly better at video de-interlacing. Note that we are talking about de-interlacing performance only here - not scaling as well which I think the VP30 is better at for all material.

I thought this was the other way around. The Faroudja is good for video source, and the Sil504 "sucked" at it. The Sil504 is good for film. I'm getting this from the AVS forums, not having had experience with it myself.

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I thought this was the other way around. The Faroudja is good for video source, and the Sil504 "sucked" at it. The Sil504 is good for film. I'm getting this from the AVS forums, not having had experience with it myself.

Hey Preacher, you could be right - I'll have to brush up on this again. Anyways, the difference between the 2 chipsets remains the same, so it'll be an interesting comparison nevertheless.

Phil.

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Hey Preacher, you could be right - I'll have to brush up on this again. Anyways, the difference between the 2 chipsets remains the same, so it'll be an interesting comparison nevertheless.

Phil.

You were half right. The Faroudja does has motion compensating deinterlacing. This is why it's good for video source. Because the interlaced fields are taken at a different point in time, any object that has moved from when the first half of the frame was recorded needs to be "compensated" for. This is not the case for film as it is a full frame that has simply been split into 2 in order to comply with our old video distribution system and CRT displays.

I don't know why anyone was expecting such great things from the VP30. It's not a new, next gen product. Think of it as being an Iscan HD++ and you probably have it summed up. You won't see a big step forward with scalers until the HQV Realta and Gennum scalers come to market. They're having some problems however and will be at least 50% more expensive than the VP30.

If you have a VP 30 enjoy it for what it is, a great switcher, excellent scaler with deinterlacing capabilities that are equal to (but not better) than anything that is available right now (excluding NEC Theatersync but that has other issues and the Denon player).

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Did you guys get an Auz power cord with your VP30s?? I got a U.S power cord :blink:

No dramas, just curious.

Ash.

hey Ash,

I got an AUS power chord;

I assume the supplier is sorting it out for you? but if that is going to take forever, I guess you could just use a plug/adapter?

cheers :P

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hey Ash,

I got an AUS power chord;

I assume the supplier is sorting it out for you? but if that is going to take forever, I guess you could just use a plug/adapter?

cheers :P

pandemik did you get my pm reply?? I thought I asked you a thing or 2 didn't I??

EDIT : Soz pandemik, I just seen your pm reply, thanks.

Anyways what do you mean exactly by plug/adapter?? U.S cord plugs into the adapter and adapter straight into wall outlet??

I was just going to purchase the same cord but Auz version.

Well I could ask the supplier, but they're a U.S retailer so I guess i'de be quicker getting it locally. Not free, but quick :blink:

Thanks,

Ash.

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