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The new DVDO iScan VP30 Video Processor


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so a bit confused as to what I SHOULD be seeing (Anyone who has it working have a camera handy?)

That, combined with this statement from the manual, concerns me a bit:

"NOTE: if this test pattern does not appear as it should, and you have chosen the native resolution of your display, you may not be able to bypass the internal processing of your display"

eeeeeekkkkk

From close up it should look exactly like a checker board ie one pixel black, one pixel white, repeating. From further away it should look grey. If it is a uniform grey (or grey with other patterns) then it is not 1:1.

I have a Fujitsu 50" with an AUSID STB, a Strong 5290 (yes still) and a Yamaha S796 DVD player hooked up to the VP30. I have the VP30 putting out 1:1 (1360x768 @ 60Hz) and agree that the AUSID looks better direct to the Fujitsu but 1080i from the AUSID is not recognised by the VP30. I have connected a Sony HDV camera to the component inputs on the VP30 (and input a 1080i@50Hz signal) and that was detected fine. There appears to be an issue with the AUSID @ 1080i and the VP30. The Strong and DVD both show big improvments in their picture quality over component direct to the Fujitsu.

I spent most of the weekend getting 1:1 sorted and trying to get 50Hz at 1:1 (via HDMI, DVI and analog) so I haven't spent a lot of time playing with the other resolutions. I'll check a few things out and report back regarding other resolutions.

Greg

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Okay here is my 2c worth.

Put the Ausid on 576i via component to the DVDO. Then lock the DVDO to 50Hz, then choose 1080i at 50Hz.

Its frigen brillant on my Fuji via HDMI.

Ive done the same with my Toppy MP and I reckon I get a better picture from it than from the Ausid .

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okay, made some progress - no more obvious checkboard from 3m distance, just plain grey, as is the case for test patterns 3,4,5 - so that is good.

1- have output from VP30 to Fuji running at 1360x768@60hz.

2- have both Toppy & AUSID input at 576i, which means all scaling should be done by VP30?

also tried AUSID at 720p just for kicks

to me, any improvement is neligable, definintely no improvment for AUSID, Toppy looks either the same or not quite as sharp when going direct-connect when using sVideo. Guess I could try scart/RGB for component connect from Toppy to VP30 to Fuji, but would not expect mammoth difference - might try this tomorrow anyway

At this point, to me (just my opinion) there is definitely not 2k worth of improvement over what I have been used to with the AVMII/internal scaling, the caveat being that perhaps it is "just me", and also obviously my gear has not been professionally calibrated, so potential for some improvement

As mentioned previously, I am using DVI from VP30 to Fuji. Not sure if I would expect better results using HDMI? Any comments?

cheers :blink:

Okay here is my 2c worth.

Put the Ausid on 576i via component to the DVDO. Then lock the DVDO to 50Hz, then choose 1080i at 50Hz.

Its frigen brillant on my Fuji via HDMI.

Ive done the same with my Toppy MP and I reckon I get a better picture from it than from the Ausid .

think I tried this also, but will try this again now. the other difference being that you are using HDMI-to-HDMI, and im using HDMI-to-DVI, so could be cause of some differences?

so for your toppy, you have that at 576i, and have the VP30 at 1080i 50hz? and Toppy is via component? (I have the vanilla 5000PVRt, so no component unless I do the scart connection fiasco, which Ill try tomorrow)

cheers :P

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Okay here is my 2c worth.

Put the Ausid on 576i via component to the DVDO. Then lock the DVDO to 50Hz, then choose 1080i at 50Hz.

Its frigen brillant on my Fuji via HDMI.

Ive done the same with my Toppy MP and I reckon I get a better picture from it than from the Ausid .

Wacko Groover :P:P:P . Nice to see that you've got the Fuji working at last. Proves to everyone that once you get the 1"1 pixe mapping, refresh rates etc etc right, it can be done. I get slightly better picture too from my Hummy than from the HD Strong STB - a little strange, but true. Long live SD - maybe the broadcasters got it right after all - who needs HD when you can get it from SD.

so for your toppy, you have that at 576i, and have the VP30 at 1080i 50hz? and Toppy is via component? (I have the vanilla 5000PVRt, so no component unless I do the scart connection fiasco, which Ill try tomorrow)

cheers :D

Just go for RGB pandemik. Set the Toppy for RGB and use the video outlet to provide the sync input needed for the VP30 as I described in my of my previous posts today - hey what a day - need a break soon :blink:

Edit: Bugger it, bloody think merged my posts again

Edited by JPP
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If anyone is interested, I have the VP30 outputting at 1080i@50Hz via analogue to a sony 86cm CRT, inputting from a Toshiba J35 on auto. Have only been playing with it a few hours, but I seem to be seeing a minor improvement on the Toshy's ability to upscale 576i to 1080i. Haven't hooked up my dvd player or vcr yet.

I'm waiting till my house is built before I purchase a new display, so the VP30 will be sitting on my rack for many months before I'll really get a chance to put it to the test.

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Checking performance on STB connection

By the way, if you want to check to see if Video/S-Video/Component/Digital RGB/HDMI is the best connection from your STB source to your VP30, use the Teletex page 695 (usually found on Chan 7) as your measuring test pattern. This page shows a colour bar test pattern which you can use to compare the various connection qualities. Usually you will see a much bigger variation between the connection methods this way then trying to judge it on program material. In general, component/digital will show a very clear improvement in colour bleed over S-Video and Video.

Phil.

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Try it just the same Norpus. The VP30 does miracles even with composite. Try the various tweaking menus in the picture and input adjust menus on the VP30. P.S. I think you meant composite rather than component output not being available from your 83cm telly? If you can get S-Video output from your telly, that would also be pretty good - just a tad less than the performance the VP30 gives from a component source.

Phil.

Apologies for my lack of clarity JPP.

The crt has only composite and svideo inputs

The vp30 has only component and hdmi outputs (Plus RGB variants)

So I concluded there is no compatibilty of the vp30 with the old crt :blink: (unless I am missing something).

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Okay here is my 2c worth.

Put the Ausid on 576i via component to the DVDO. Then lock the DVDO to 50Hz, then choose 1080i at 50Hz.

Its frigen brillant on my Fuji via HDMI.

Ive done the same with my Toppy MP and I reckon I get a better picture from it than from the Ausid .

That's right... you are with us (me and pandemik) saying that 1:1 mapping isn't the best resolution on the Fuji but other modes like one you are suggesting.

Wacko Groover :P:P:P . Nice to see that you've got the Fuji working at last. Proves to everyone that once you get the 1"1 pixe mapping, refresh rates etc etc right, it can be done. I get slightly better picture too from my Hummy than from the HD Strong STB - a little strange, but true. Long live SD - maybe the broadcasters got it right after all - who needs HD when you can get it from SD.

Just go for RGB pandemik. Set the Toppy for RGB and use the video outlet to provide the sync input needed for the VP30 as I described in my of my previous posts today - hey what a day - need a break soon :blink:

Edit: Bugger it, bloody think merged my posts again

No JPP I don't think Groover is using 1:1 mapping. He only changed the output format to 1080i@50Hz to Fujitsu from VP30 which is receiving 576i from AUSID so it is not the same issue we are talking about with AUSID outputting 1080i@50Hz into VP30. He is just agreeing with me and pandemik's opinion that rather than using format 1366*768 or 1360*768 as a format he is using 1920*1080i@50Hz which I have also tried and see better result than the 1:1 mapping setup on my Fuji.

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That's right... you are with us (me and pandemik) saying that 1:1 mapping isn't the best resolution on the Fuji but other modes like one you are suggesting.

No JPP I don't think Groover is using 1:1 mapping. He only changed the output format to 1080i@50Hz to Fujitsu from VP30 which is receiving 576i from AUSID so it is not the same issue we are talking about with AUSID outputting 1080i@50Hz into VP30. He is just agreeing with me and pandemik's opinion that rather than using format 1366*768 or 1360*768 as a format he is using 1920*1080i@50Hz which I have also tried and see better result than the 1:1 mapping setup on my Fuji.

Bugger :blink:

By all accounts so far, it would seem well nigh impossible to get the Fuji to accept native resolution as a valid input format. I doubt very much that, as good as the Fuji's internal scalars are, that they are better those inside the VP30. But, until you get the Fuji to display at its native res, we'll never know for sure.

Edited by JPP
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Spent few more hours playing with the beast and here is my third review.

Now I agree that component output is better than the S-video. I have been saying that S-video looks better because it is softer to my eyes and when looked at viewing distance, it looked more like as if I was sitting in a cinema with some sort of filteration effect making the picture look softer and smoother. However, in terms of number of color that component output can display compare to S-video makes the picture to be sharper and clearer specially when see from the fiddling distance (50cm) in front of all gears and panel, it shows distinct difference compare to S-video. Again I said S-video is better in my opinion because I prefer softer picture but to generallise the opinion, most definately component output is much better in terms of color saturation and sharpness.

I am still though using 720p@60Hz mode to Fujitsu which I like better than 1:1 resolution.

Now because I have three component output gears (DVD, PS2, and AUSID) going into VP30 and I was told 576i is the best output into VP30 from those gears but I have a problem that only 2 component input from VP30 will accept 576i. I have bought BNC to RCA converter from Jaycar to use the RGBHV connection on VP30 as component input but it will only accept 480p, 576p, 720p or 1080i. so I hooked up AUSID into it and feeding 720p@50Hz into it which I think is better than 576p@50Hz. The other two available modes (PAL (576i) and 1080i) do not work on this connection. I am thinking 1080i from AUSID via component definately has some issues if others were able to output from other brand STBs.... anyways, I got PS2 and DVD doing 576i and AUSID doing 720p all via component... I guess I will leave it for a while now and see what others come up with so I can further fiddle to make it better hopefully.

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Bugger :blink:

By all accounts so far, it would seem well nigh impossible to get the Fuji to accept native resolution as a valid input format. I doubt very much that, as good as the Fuji's internal scalars are, that they are better those inside the VP30. But, until you get the Fuji to display at its native res, we'll never know for sure.

Hi JPP.

Yes it does display at 1368x768 and 1360x768 but they are not just as good as other format. That is all I, pandemik and Groover are saying.

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Guys

A little while ago i was in constant contact with DVDO pssing on questions from you guys and feeding the info back.

One thing i asked of DVDO was instructions on getting 1 to 1 mapping at 60Hz after finding out the Fujitsu could not do 50Hz 1 to 1 so the guys at DVDO pulled out a 50" 20 series and got down to mapping then passed on the info to me.

Now they did use the HD+ but there is not difference in how its done

Here it is

Thank you for your interest in our products, and your question. As

for the Fujitsu P50XHA40US, this unit specifies that it can receive the

1366x768 resolution over both analog RGB and DVI/HDMI (although the DVI

is, as you are most likely aware, not HDCP compliant). As for

frame-rates, the HD+ (with Ver 2.91 firmware) and VP30 are capable of

outputting ANY frame rate between 25Hz and 83Hz. The VP30 is capable of

outputting any pixel resolution over RGB and DVI/HDMI. For your setup,

try forcing the frame rate to 72 or 75Hz and see if your display can

handle it, as this frame rate works best with video frame recovery

(120Hz works better, but your display will not be able to accept this

signal).

**Note: Starting with firmware version 2.91 on the HD+, the default

output timing for 50Hz signals is 59.97Hz**

You will need to be in advanced user mode on the HD+ to do this. To

check what user mode you are in do the following:

With the iScan powered on, press "Config" on the iScan remote,

You should see "Test" and the Front Panel Display (FPD).

Press the "Down" arrow on the remote until you see "USRM" on the FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow and you will see either "NRML" or "ADV" on the

FPD.

If it is "NRML" press the "Up" arrow once and it should switch.

Press "Enter" on the remote.

Now press "Output Setup" on the remote, you will see "A/D" on the FPD.

Press the "Down" arrow until you see "FRC" on the FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow, you will probably see "50->" or "60->" on the

FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow, and you should see "50L", "60L", "72L", "75L",

or "UNLK". Use the "Down" arrow until you see "UNLK", then press the

"Right" arrow. You will now see the exact (to a hundredth of a Hertz or

0.01Hz) frame rate. You can use your "Up" and Down arrows on the remote

to adjust this value. Play with it, and allow some time (three to five

seconds) for your display to re-synchronize with the iScan's output (you

might also want to try power-cycling your display). If your display can

handle an 80Hz refresh rate without "sparkles" around the vertical

edges, I'd recommend using it.

Once in Advanced user mode you may also adjust the pixel resolution to

completely bypass any internal scaling (this goes for both input signals

and output signals). Remember it's easier for a scaler to resize a

picture that is off by several tens of pixels, than to re-calculate the

whole image to squeeze in one or two rows of resolution!

**********DISCLAIMER**********

Keep in mind, when in "Advanced" user mode, our unit removes the

restrictions on what kind of signal we are outputting. This means that

you may set your iScan to output a signal that can damage your display

device. One such customer recently destroyed his deflection boards in

his CRT projector because he sent his CRT based projector a frequency

outside it supported range. Most modern displays feature a protection

device, which prevents the display from even attempting this, but older

models may not have any over-frequency protection!

**********DISCLAIMER**********

If your Fujitsu does not accept the 50Hz signal, the problem isn't going

to be with the iScan, you will want to talk to Fujitsu about the

resolution capabilities of your plasma (we can put any resolution over

DVI, HDMI or RGBHV - it is up to the display to determine whether or not

it can actually display it)

If you pass this information along on the DBA Forums (yes, I found it),

please also include the disclaimer be it CRT or otherwise, just to cover

yourself.

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Hi Guys

Re the 1080i-50 hz issue, yes locking the Framerate to 50hz does mean you are only outputting the 50hz signal.

I posted that just as a solution to the Ausid direct issue, its doesnt help with pixel matching etc.

Anyway thats all redundant to me now.

Aaron from Avical fully calibrated my NEC 50in Plasma with the VP30 and the Result is Fantastic.

Aaron did not use 1:1 pixel matching as it was his opinion that you get a better picture using another setting, but it is perfectly matched on the test patterns and i believe everything is now passed through at 60 hz (pal and NTSC) using the VP30 as the scaling source rather than the Display. (this matches the Displays native frequency).

I cant even compare it to the Lumagen HDP because of course the Display has been calibrated as well.

Aaron also calibrated my Projector Infocus 7205 using the Lumagen HDP outputting native 1280*720, very happy with that as well.

I was the guinea pig for Aaron using the VP30 and he was pleased that it all worked 100%.

All i can say, is that for the cost of the Calibration, easy of setup etc, Give Aaron a call.

Very happy with the result, no more mucking around with settings for me, this weekend i expect to have some nice wasted hours with a few friends Mr and Mrs Smith, Anakin Skywalker and maybe Bruce Wayne.

Bring it on.

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sounds very cool horseman, very glad to hear it is all up and running!!! :blink:

I have a general question re: HDMI/HDCP and the VP30...

is the HDCP/encryption "relationship" between the source device and the VP30 only, or is it between the source device, then VP30, and then also panel in order for everything to work?

reason I ask is, if I am using a non-HDCP enabled DVI port on my panel to connect the VP30, will HDMI/HDCP enabled devices still function correctly?

cheers :P

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Aaron did not use 1:1 pixel matching as it was his opinion that you get a better picture using another setting, but it is perfectly matched on the test patterns and i believe everything is now passed through at 60 hz (pal and NTSC) using the VP30 as the scaling source rather than the Display. (this matches the Displays native frequency).

I was the guinea pig for Aaron using the VP30 and he was pleased that it all worked 100%.

All i can say, is that for the cost of the Calibration, easy of setup etc, Give Aaron a call.

Yes Horseman you were the guinea pig but I was very impressed with the VP30 and it did everything I expected and gave no problems whatsoever.

As this installation was using an NEC plasma I set the output to 60Hz as this plasma displays everything at 60Hz anyway and better to have the DVDO doing the Frame Rate Conversion than the plasma. (You can set an NEC Plasma to run at 50Hz but the solarisation is very bad compared to 60Hz).

For the resolution I chose 1024x768, this is a good one for many plasmas. Ideally we would run 1:1 pixel mapping (1280x768) but that isn't possible on this plasma nor most others. Matching the vertical resolution is the most important thing to do as vertical scaling is more important than horizontal scaling. So we had perfect vertical pixel mapping and horizontal scaling in the plasma.

The VP30 worked a treat and did everything expected. No problems running 1080i over DVI into the VP30 HDMI input from a Teac DV-B800 HDTV box. I haven't tried 1080i over component yet.

Despite the nice user interface on the VP30 this is the type of product that really deserves a full ISF setup and calibration.

Aaron

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For the resolution I chose 1024x768, this is a good one for many plasmas. Ideally we would run 1:1 pixel mapping (1280x768) but that isn't possible on this plasma nor most others. Matching the vertical resolution is the most important thing to do as vertical scaling is more important than horizontal scaling. So we had perfect vertical pixel mapping and horizontal scaling in the plasma.

Hi Aaron!

(check your email please :blink:

This is where I guess my lack of understanding confuses me.

If the native res of the panel is 1366x768 (or 1360x768), and you choose a resolution of 1024x768, that looks to me like a pretty masive drop in resolution, and therefore (in my mind) would result in a picture that is not at its maximum potential in terms of details, sharpness, etc etc?

cheers :P

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sounds very cool horseman, very glad to hear it is all up and running!!! :P

I have a general question re: HDMI/HDCP and the VP30...

is the HDCP/encryption "relationship" between the source device and the VP30 only, or is it between the source device, then VP30, and then also panel in order for everything to work?

reason I ask is, if I am using a non-HDCP enabled DVI port on my panel to connect the VP30, will HDMI/HDCP enabled devices still function correctly?

cheers :P

Unfortunately, you are in the same boat as me. I don't have HDCP capability in my display. We therefore cannot watch any source that has HDCP enabled - whether it be over DVI or HDMI. The VP30 simply passes through the HDCP protocol - the handshake has to be between the source and the display. The "man in the middle" - the VP30 - also has to be capable of passing through the HDCP content of the total signal. Hence DVDO went from the HD to HD+ where the HD+ could handle HDCP.

A German crowd sell a HDCP black box that sits between the VP30 and the display. It's still rather expensive at some 400 Euros. PM if you want more details. Personally, I'm going to wait until I really need this box - maybe the Chinese will come up with a cheaper version :P . If Microsoft go ahead with HDCP encryption on their new OS, then there will be a real push for this type of box - there's a huge DVI non-HDCP equiped monitor base installed out there.

Up until now I've been able to buy HT gear that is not HDCP fitted - like the OPPO Digital DVI DVD player. But the Denon range of upscaling DVD players do have HDCP enabled over their DVI/HDMI outputs. :blink:

JPP

Edited by JPP
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Guys

A little while ago i was in constant contact with DVDO pssing on questions from you guys and feeding the info back.

One thing i asked of DVDO was instructions on getting 1 to 1 mapping at 60Hz after finding out the Fujitsu could not do 50Hz 1 to 1 so the guys at DVDO pulled out a 50" 20 series and got down to mapping then passed on the info to me.

Now they did use the HD+ but there is not difference in how its done

Here it is

Thank you for your interest in our products, and your question. As

for the Fujitsu P50XHA40US, this unit specifies that it can receive the

1366x768 resolution over both analog RGB and DVI/HDMI (although the DVI

is, as you are most likely aware, not HDCP compliant). As for

frame-rates, the HD+ (with Ver 2.91 firmware) and VP30 are capable of

outputting ANY frame rate between 25Hz and 83Hz. The VP30 is capable of

outputting any pixel resolution over RGB and DVI/HDMI. For your setup,

try forcing the frame rate to 72 or 75Hz and see if your display can

handle it, as this frame rate works best with video frame recovery

(120Hz works better, but your display will not be able to accept this

signal).

**Note: Starting with firmware version 2.91 on the HD+, the default

output timing for 50Hz signals is 59.97Hz**

You will need to be in advanced user mode on the HD+ to do this. To

check what user mode you are in do the following:

With the iScan powered on, press "Config" on the iScan remote,

You should see "Test" and the Front Panel Display (FPD).

Press the "Down" arrow on the remote until you see "USRM" on the FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow and you will see either "NRML" or "ADV" on the

FPD.

If it is "NRML" press the "Up" arrow once and it should switch.

Press "Enter" on the remote.

Now press "Output Setup" on the remote, you will see "A/D" on the FPD.

Press the "Down" arrow until you see "FRC" on the FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow, you will probably see "50->" or "60->" on the

FPD.

Press the "Right" arrow, and you should see "50L", "60L", "72L", "75L",

or "UNLK". Use the "Down" arrow until you see "UNLK", then press the

"Right" arrow. You will now see the exact (to a hundredth of a Hertz or

0.01Hz) frame rate. You can use your "Up" and Down arrows on the remote

to adjust this value. Play with it, and allow some time (three to five

seconds) for your display to re-synchronize with the iScan's output (you

might also want to try power-cycling your display). If your display can

handle an 80Hz refresh rate without "sparkles" around the vertical

edges, I'd recommend using it.

Once in Advanced user mode you may also adjust the pixel resolution to

completely bypass any internal scaling (this goes for both input signals

and output signals). Remember it's easier for a scaler to resize a

picture that is off by several tens of pixels, than to re-calculate the

whole image to squeeze in one or two rows of resolution!

**********DISCLAIMER**********

Keep in mind, when in "Advanced" user mode, our unit removes the

restrictions on what kind of signal we are outputting. This means that

you may set your iScan to output a signal that can damage your display

device. One such customer recently destroyed his deflection boards in

his CRT projector because he sent his CRT based projector a frequency

outside it supported range. Most modern displays feature a protection

device, which prevents the display from even attempting this, but older

models may not have any over-frequency protection!

**********DISCLAIMER**********

If your Fujitsu does not accept the 50Hz signal, the problem isn't going

to be with the iScan, you will want to talk to Fujitsu about the

resolution capabilities of your plasma (we can put any resolution over

DVI, HDMI or RGBHV - it is up to the display to determine whether or not

it can actually display it)

If you pass this information along on the DBA Forums (yes, I found it),

please also include the disclaimer be it CRT or otherwise, just to cover

yourself.

Thank you Glenncol.

I have tried using framerate upto 80Hz on both 50Hz and 60Hz connections but the picture is either not showing/totally scattered/black and white(between around 70Hz to 64Hz)...

I think I will still stick to the 1280x720p@60Hz for the moment. Has anyone else tried this?

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Thank you Glenncol.

I have tried using framerate upto 80Hz on both 50Hz and 60Hz connections but the picture is either not showing/totally scattered/black and white(between around 70Hz to 64Hz)...

I think I will still stick to the 1280x720p@60Hz for the moment. Has anyone else tried this?

well after having read the "disclaimer" part of glenn's msg from DVDO, I am a tad reluctant!!! :P

oh I managed to get the HDMI working on my Fuji panel *finally*. Turns out that I am at least partically stoopid, as the cable had to be pushed with a bit of force (quite a bit more than I expected?) to "snap" the cable in (previously it looked kinda "half out", but I didnt want to force it)..

in my frustration a short while ago, I gave it a bit of an extra push, and voila, went in, VP30 came up via HDMI no probs (no difference/improvement compared to DVI that I could see) - but anyway, thank god (or other such all-powerful entity) that I dont need to return the panel or get it fixed

I have also tried Toppy-->scart-->RGB (with sync cable)-->VP30-->Fuji. I would say the picture is more or less the same as going via S-video.

I think I'll be deferring to Aaron on how best to get this connected, and leave it to the profressionals to configure the VP30 and my panel

but knowing me, I cant help myself, and will think of things to tweak and play with in the mean time :blink:

cheers :P

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Hi all,

The title of the thread says it all.

Haven't had much play time yet (can someone come over and mind my kids please - and finish the lawn while you're at it)

I've got mine connected to a Pan PV500A via HDMI and BNC to try some comparisons.

Firstly, my sources weren't that crash-hot to start with, so perhaps I started with a lower bar, but the increase in PQ for me had been quite good. After putting on LOTR DVD, the CFO, who very rarely shows any interest in PQ and SQ, commented on how good the picture looked. She particularly commented on depth of the picture, and how it was like looking through a window. That is a miracle in itself.

As expected, I can't get native over HDMI, but the picture still looks terrific (720@50).

Via analogue, the checkerboard pattern looks pretty close. I need to play with the panel's clock and phase a bit more.

I got the VP30 with an eye to going with a PJ at a new house. When I add up the cost of buying a decent Denon player and other stuff, as well as a switcher fro HDMI, the VP30 ended up pretty good value.

The frame rate business I find very confusing. Can anyone point to an article, or explain to a dunderhead, the thinking behind it. For PAL, what is the difference between using 25, 50 or 75HZ in terms of PQ and Judder. What happens when you feed 60 to a panel with a 50 Hz source.

Luck to all in the search for PQ Nirvana

Cheers

Chui

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I don't know if this has the answer for our wonders...

I was just doing some surfing to read more specific specs on Sony LCD Bravia and found the following from the Sony US site.

Video

• Native Resolution: 720p

• Contrast Ratio: 1300:1

• Display Resolution: 1366 x 768

What is interesting to me is that the LCD panel itself has the resolution same as my 50" Fujitsu 1366x768 but the NATIVE RESOLUTION says 720p. So is this the answer why we get better results on our Fuji, NEC (calibrated by Aaron) and also Chui's Pana at 720p resolution? which is the native for our panel rather than trying to fiddle with 1:1 mapping at 1360x768 what we believe was the native?

Not sure if this is also the case for my Fuji. I am sure Fuji is the only one to give us the answer but I am leaning more towards having a confidence in 720p rather than 768 with a blurred color and image..

FYI

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP....ame=specs&var2=

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I don't know if this has the answer for our wonders...

I was just doing some surfing to read more specific specs on Sony LCD Bravia and found the following from the Sony US site.

Video

• Native Resolution: 720p

• Contrast Ratio: 1300:1

• Display Resolution: 1366 x 768

What is interesting to me is that the LCD panel itself has the resolution same as my 50" Fujitsu 1366x768 but the NATIVE RESOLUTION says 720p. So is this the answer why we get better results on our Fuji, NEC (calibrated by Aaron) and also Chui's Pana at 720p resolution? which is the native for our panel rather than trying to fiddle with 1:1 mapping at 1360x768 what we believe was the native?

Not sure if this is also the case for my Fuji. I am sure Fuji is the only one to give us the answer but I am leaning more towards having a confidence in 720p rather than 768 with a blurred color and image..

FYI

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP....ame=specs&var2=

I think you've got it in one Aussie. The fact that your dsiplay is blurred at 768 says to me that that is NOT its native resolution. 1366 x 768 is a PC resolution, whereas 720 is an HDMI standard. DVI resolutions on the other hand tend to follow PC resolution standards. So maybe they are saying that you can connect it up to your PC graphics card, which commonly DO NOT have a 720 x 1440 res mode as part of their repetoire, i.e. you can feed it 1336 x 768 (true 16 x 9 format) and it will scale the image internally to fit the 720 lines it has. My thought for the day.

Phil.

P.S. The other thought is that the display is actually a true 1366 x 768 (very likely for LCD panel) and that the so called "native res of 720" is a bit of a misnomer and really refers to the "native addressing mode". As the manual on page 32 points out, some LCD panels also have restrictions on their native res addressing capability. So, in these cases too you cannot get true 1:1 pixel mapping :blink: A display that has a DVI input is more likely to support true native pixel mapping.

Edited by JPP
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I think many of you would have read this already. This is the 1:1 mapping for 10, and 30 series Fujitsu from AVS forum. I will try when I get home but if my investigation on 720p being a native resolution for Fuji is right, I guess I could not be bothered fiddling any more.....

H-Shift 144

H-Size 1360

H-Front 176

H-Sync-112

H-Back 144

H-Total 1792

V-Shift 8

V-Size 768

V-Front 8

V-Sync 6

V-Back 13

V-Total 795

Have fun 'Club Fuji' fellas..

This may be also helpful for other brand owners

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/ind...p/t-394174.html

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A wee trap for young and not so young players

In fiddling around with my revised setup today and getting my Harmony 880 universal remote to work with it all, I was suddenly confronted with a totally blank screen. I did the usual resets and restarts on all the toys that could possibly have anything to do with it. All to no avail. I could get a picture on my display when pressing the Info button the DVDO and see that all inputs were getting through. As soon as the info screen went away though, no picture. Reset the DVDO a few more times, but no go.

I then thought, this is just as if a curtain has been drawn across the screen, and the penny dropped. Somehow, the Harmony had invoked the curtain command on the VP30. Because I was not watching the screen all the time, I didn't see it come in.

The interesting thing is though, that resetting (even changed output resolutions) and power cycling did NOT automatically reset or lift the curtain on the VP30. It retained the "blind" throughout all the fiddling, except of course when setting the output configurations and querying the info. Thought for a while that I was the first to have a dud VP30 on my hands. :blink:

PP

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I think many of you would have read this already. This is the 1:1 mapping for 10, and 30 series Fujitsu from AVS forum. I will try when I get home but if my investigation on 720p being a native resolution for Fuji is right, I guess I could not be bothered fiddling any more.....

H-Shift 144

H-Size 1360

H-Front 176

H-Sync-112

H-Back 144

H-Total 1792

V-Shift 8

V-Size 768

V-Front 8

V-Sync 6

V-Back 13

V-Total 795

Have fun 'Club Fuji' fellas..

This may be also helpful for other brand owners

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/ind...p/t-394174.html

This setting did not work for me. I got other number to get 1:1 mapping...though still, color saturation and sharpness isn't as good as 720p settings. in my opinion not worth following the setting as far as Fujitsu panle is concerned...

OH 1 IMPORTANT finding though, for those Fujitsu owners. make sure you turn off the Obiter funtion as this improves the PQ and positions the picture correctly when Orbiter is turned on for some reason it zooms the screen a bit hence loses the sharpness a bit. You will notice it when you flick though obiter option turned on and off.

Also if I am not worng, I may be able to achieve better picture using 1:1 mapping then play around with the color settings on VP30 menu or plasma itself... Am I right?

Would calibration now only need to be done on one input? (video 5 in Fujitsu case) as all fed by VP30 into panel???? or does each input source into VP30 needs to be calibrated differently still?

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