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The new DVDO iScan VP30 Video Processor


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During lunch time, I went home and played with it more taking you guys recommendations and now I have the following results.

AUSID-I ran S-video from AUSID into VP30 and let VP30 does all the scaling looks better than the component connection I tried with at 720p/50Hz.. so you guys are right. feed the minimum resolution and let the VP30 does the work. Now I have Component from AUSID into Video 3 of my Fuji and S-Video also going into VP30 (So that my kids and wife will not get lost..hehe) PQ wise, I still think the direct connection is marginally better on HD programs.. but I am happy with the VP30 processing PAL signal.

PS2-also via s-video on VP30 and component on Video4 of Fuji (just for my kid again) but fully agree that S-Video connection via VP30 looks much sharper than direct connection to Fuji via component.

DVD-I have not done anything to this...but my question is.. would using Composite/S-Video output from my DVD into VP30 work better than feeding via component? I set the DVD to output interlaced so PAL will do 576i and NTSC will do 480i. What does component output do to the picture quality in this case when VP30 will do the job regardless of what connection (Component/S-video/Composite).

And the last point on pixel map. I fiddle with 1360*768 mapping via HDMI at 60Hz. works ok but the color and sharpness is better when I use 1080i@60hz or 720p@60Hz pre setting mode on VP30... why would this be the case? Any Fuji owners out there with VP30 suggest what is better in your case?

Now my second impression of the VP30 is worth more than my first impression having set it up taking you guys recommendations. Although I am not taking the advantage of HDMI switch as yet, it is excellent that now I do not have to fiddle with my amp. one source of audio input into it and I do not need to change the channel on my fuji either. Hopefully as time goes by and have more people play around with it will get better and better.

So my contribution is just reitertaing what everyone said already.

FEED VP30 with the least possible resolution you have on your gear and let VP30 does the magic then you will see the results.

Glad to see you are happier now aussiex3

I don't think people were saying "FEED VP30 with the least possible resolution you have on your gear "

I would modify this to "feed VP30 the highest bit rate non interlaced non scaled input" - not quite the same. For your example, feed it component not svid or composite, as it will still be the GIGO principle.

Edited by norpus
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yep I have the Fuji 50" - yet to undertake the AUSID mission, started "simple" with my Toppy5000.

regarding my earlier posts, looks like the HDMI input on my panel is dead, as I took the VP30 and HDMI cable back to the supplier, and they were very kind to accomodate me by plugging the VP30 and cable into one of their panels... and voila... worked straight away.

So I hope I am missing something regarding my HDMI input, otherwise its a service call :blink:

I am now using the VP30 via HDMI-->DVI cable into my Fuji.. having a lot of trouble getting the test patterns to fit the screen correctly, but even when I am close, the source (in this case Toppy) is not filling anywhere near the full panel, and even when I increase the overscan, it does not fill the screen properly.

I must say also that the picture quality is realllly realllly bad via the VP30, compared to the toppy directly connected to the panel - again, I hope its because I am doing something wrong

anyone else tried the Toppy --> VP30 --> Fuji panel?

cheers :P

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One missing feature for me (which I had not even bothered to check) was that the 80cm crt (where I watch a lot of my foxtel) cannot benefit from the vp30 as it does not output svideo, (it does component however). So I will have to upgrade my crt to a component variety at some stage.

Try it just the same Norpus. The VP30 does miracles even with composite. Try the various tweaking menus in the picture and input adjust menus on the VP30. P.S. I think you meant composite rather than component output not being available from your 83cm telly? If you can get S-Video output from your telly, that would also be pretty good - just a tad less than the performance the VP30 gives from a component source.

Phil.

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FWIW Glenn said you cannot pixel map at 50Hz using HDMI. He did say you can pixel map at 60Hz albeit at 1360 x 768 (not 1366x768). See below for how I achieved this.

I have a Fujitsu 50" and a VP30 and have it pixel mapping 1:1 at a resolution of 1360 x 768 @ 60 Hz. To do this select 1366x768 from the Format menu under output settings (then go right and select H-Size and reduce this to 1360). The formate will then be a User setting but that is all you need to chose there.

You then have to set the Framerate. Go to Framerate under Output Settings and select the 50Hz box. You have to specify 60.01 Hz (doesn't really matter if it is a little bit different but that is what the Fujitsu manual says it wants) for the framerate for 50Hz source material. If you try anything else (eg 50 or 75Hz) it will either not sync or you won't get 1:1 (unless there is a magic setting I haven't found yet).

I had a brief play with 50Hz output using DVI and on analog with the same results. There are reports on a UK AV Forum that they have managed to get 1:1 @50Hz out of a Lumagen processor into a Fuji but they did not give any further details of what settings were required.

hi there.. i got the 1360*768 at 60 on the fuji as well but in my personal opinion, i think other modes display clearer picture and indepth color than 1:1 mapping...it may just be my stupid eyes. anyway, I now have 4 display profiles saved so I can change around and compare the results but I still think the 720p@60Hz is the best both in PQ and color. I used Bug's Life to test this and Free to air TV of course. Have you tried other output formats? Give us your thought after u have a go... cheers dude..

Glad to see you are happier now aussiex3

I don't think people were saying "FEED VP30 with the least possible resolution you have on your gear "

I would modify this to "feed VP30 the highest bit rate non interlaced non scaled input" - not quite the same. For your example, feed it component not svid or composite, as it will still be the GIGO principle.

Hmmmm... but I truely think that S-vid gives out better picture than the component into VP30. I tried both connection at the same time and switched the input button on the reomote to compare the result....I really don't think GIGO principle does apply here especially when feeding only PAL signal to the VP30. Component is capable of outputting different resolutions whereas others (Composite/S-vid) wouldn't as far as this case is concerned, PAL is PAL at 576i isn't it? I would have not say this if this was the direction connections to my Fuji but via VP30... for some reasons... it performs better on S-vid...(mind u I am only talking about S-vid on my AUSID) so please just take it as a personal opinion and something for other AUSID owners to try.

Foggy using S-vid connection to VP30 will display 1080i mode... then again this is not true 1080i because S-vid is not capable of sending the 1080i signals...

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anyone else tried the Toppy --> VP30 --> Fuji panel?

cheers :blink:

Hi pandemik.

I get fantastic results using my Humax SD twin tuner PVR into the VP30. I use RGB out of the SCART connector (Not component or YUV). To use RGB Scart into the component inputs of the VP30, you need to run an extra cable out of the Video or composite connector on your Toppy (does it have one separate from the scart connectors -yes it does - just looked it up) and run this to the Sync input right next to the RGB component input jacks on the VP30. This tells it that you are inputting RGB and not YUV.

Let me know how this looks.

Phil.

Foggy using S-vid connection to VP30 will display 1080i mode... then again this is not true 1080i because S-vid is not capable of sending the 1080i signals...

Aussie,

Are you on the right input channel when you press the info button?

Edit: Funny, I did not merge these 2 posts. Have noticed that before now I come to think of it. Answer one post, complete it, and then answer another one straight away, and the posts get merged.

Edited by JPP
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Guys

Just got the 1080i-50hz to work.

Change the framerate to 50hz-Locked

Then you can select 1080i-50hz from the Format Field

Looks Great.

Still waiting for aaron to arrive this afternoon to fine tune,

Will keep you abreast of news.

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Guys

Just got the 1080i-50hz to work.

Change the framerate to 50hz-Locked

Then you can select 1080i-50hz from the Format Field

Looks Great.

Still waiting for aaron to arrive this afternoon to fine tune,

Will keep you abreast of news.

me getting a bit confused now :blink:

is this for using an output format of 1080i-50hz instead of using the custom 1:1 pixel setting?

cheers

Hi pandemik.

I get fantastic results using my Humax SD twin tuner PVR into the VP30. I use RGB out of the SCART connector (Not component or YUV). To use RGB Scart into the component inputs of the VP30, you need to run an extra cable out of the Video or composite connector on your Toppy (does it have one separate from the scart connectors -yes it does - just looked it up) and run this to the Sync input right next to the RGB component input jacks on the VP30. This tells it that you are inputting RGB and not YUV.

Let me know how this looks.

Phil.

hi phil,

thanks for the info - currently im going Toppy to VP30 via S-video...

should I assume from your post that the scart/RGB/etc you have suggested would make a big difference?

cheers :P

edit: heh yeah I didnt merge these posts either... must be a "feature" of the updated version of the forum/software

Edited by pandemik
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hi phil,

thanks for the info - currently im going Toppy to VP30 via S-video...

should I assume from your post that the scart/RGB/etc you have suggested would make a big difference?

cheers :blink:

edit: heh yeah I didnt merge these posts either... must be a "feature" of the updated version of the forum/software

Not a big difference - you mostly notice it around the edges of shapes. On S-video you get small wriggly outlines on edges that change colour; with RGB these disappear completely. Also the small amount of moiring left over on S-Video completely dissappear. (Moiring is very noticible on plain video or composite inputs as on plain PAL on normal telly)

Phil.

Edited by JPP
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Aussie,

Are you on the right input channel when you press the info button?

Edit: Funny, I did not merge these 2 posts. Have noticed that before now I come to think of it. Answer one post, complete it, and then answer another one straight away, and the posts get merged.

Oh I did not mean that I get the info page displaying 1080i from the VP30. I was just saying that S-Video connection will display the picture even if the AUSID STB is set to output 1080i@50Hz which is for the ovbious reason that S-Video will just treat this output as PAL anyway... however, 1080i@50Hz via component to VP30 is showing nothing on TV. That's all I meant.

Guys

Just got the 1080i-50hz to work.

Change the framerate to 50hz-Locked

Then you can select 1080i-50hz from the Format Field

Looks Great.

Still waiting for aaron to arrive this afternoon to fine tune,

Will keep you abreast of news.

Great. but wouldn' this force all connection to output at 50Hz?

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Aussie,

Are you on the right input channel when you press the info button?

Edit: Funny, I did not merge these 2 posts. Have noticed that before now I come to think of it. Answer one post, complete it, and then answer another one straight away, and the posts get merged.

Oh I did not mean that I get the info page displaying 1080i from the VP30. I was just saying that S-Video connection will display the picture even if the AUSID STB is set to output 1080i@50Hz which is for the ovbious reason that S-Video will just treat this output as PAL anyway... however, 1080i@50Hz via component to VP30 is showing nothing on TV. That's all I meant.

Great. but wouldn' this force all connection to output at 50Hz?

Aussie,

The AUSID in common with all "good" STBs will always output Video and S-Video (S-Video and Video or composite are ALWAYS 576i or PAL) as well as at the same time output whatever resolution you select on the other outputs. Some "not so good" STBs will disable the PAL outputs if you select other than PAL or 576i as the output on the other digital/analog connection(s).

Lots of fun, all of this isn't it? :blink:

Edited by JPP
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Glad to see you are happier now aussiex3

I don't think people were saying "FEED VP30 with the least possible resolution you have on your gear "

I would modify this to "feed VP30 the highest bit rate non interlaced non scaled input" - not quite the same. For your example, feed it component not svid or composite, as it will still be the GIGO principle.

That's right, 576i through the best connection method possible to the VP30. Which would follow the normal rules of quality connections:

1. HDMI/DVI, 2. RGBHV, 3.Component, 4. Svid 5. Composite. (SDI is even better than HDMI but we won't go there).

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That's right, 576i through the best connection method possible to the VP30. Which would follow the normal rules of quality connections:

1. HDMI/DVI, 2. RGBHV, 3.Component, 4. Svid 5. Composite. (SDI is even better than HDMI but we won't go there).

okay so,

1- I have my AUSID set to 576i (which is basically PAL..?) - have also tried it in other modes.

2- The AUSID is connected via component on the VP30

3- the VP30 is connected to my panel via DVI (HDMI appears to be broken on my panel - must call Fuji)

4- I have put the VP30 in to many different output modes, including 576p, 720p, 1080i, also "native" 1366x768, and not so "native" 1360x768

With the above "configuration", I have to say the resulting PQ is very very average, the direct connection between AUSID & panel is much much better.

so either im doing something very wrong, or the VP30 is radically below what I was expecting (ie certainly not a worse picture than I started with).

I find this to be the case when connecting the Toppy via the VP30.

I was reading thru the VP30 manual (pretty useless), and was n ot too sure about the 8bit/10bit video provessing stuff... if I choose the 10bit mode, the colours go mega 70s-im-on-a-trip (ie bad)...

I am hoping someone comes up with the "holy grail" settings they are using on their VP30 for devices such as the Toppy, AUSID, etc, that actually result in a much improved picture (ie a picture worth over $2000 better, or better AT ALL) - so far, I have only seen a significant loss in PQ

surely cant be this "hard" to get good results quickly?

EDIT: (how do I know im by-passing the internal scaler? perhaps things getting scaled twice..?)

cheers :blink:

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Not a big difference - you mostly notice it around the edges of shapes. On S-video you get small wriggly outlines on edges that change colour; with RGB these disappear completely. Also the small amount of moiring left over on S-Video completely dissappear. (Moiring is very noticible on plain video or composite inputs as on plain PAL on normal telly)

Phil.

Phil I definately see the huge differences between component and S-vid when connected directly into the panel but via VP30 as I said before, I seem to get better picture out of S-vid connection. What I am suspecting is that feeding s-vid into VP30 allow it to process it nicer than the component may be?????? I don't know..I am not a tech guy to know all this. Also please other people who is arguing that HDMI/DVI>Component>S-Video>Composite... I know all this and I know what differences they make on direct connection to my plasma.. all I am saying is that even with my untrained eyes, I see and get better PQ on S-vid from AUSID and PS2..that's just me..

Aussie,

The AUSID in common with all "good" STBs will always output Video and S-Video (S-Video and Video or composite are ALWAYS 576i or PAL) as well as at the same time output whatever resolution you select on the other outputs. Some "not so good" STBs will disable the PAL outputs if you select other than PAL or 576i as the output on the other digital/analog connection(s).

Lots of fun, all of this isn't it? :blink:

Yes.. very fun and good learning indeed.

I come to think that after all with VP30, Good SD STB will do the job just fine. No requirement for HD STB like AUSID of course unless u have a reception problems as AUSID is fantastic in receiving good signal even under a baddition.

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EDIT: (how do I know im by-passing the internal scaler? perhaps things getting scaled twice..?)

cheers :blink:

Pandemik,

See page 34 of the manual - a 1 line width border in the right place along each of the 4 edges. I find the manual pretty good actually. But, this manual, like all, should be "consumed" with a cup of coffee on one side of you, a glass of port on the other, the missus and kids in bed, dog by your side and a couple of hours of "bemusement" You won't remember everything you've read, but you usually remember that you read something about a problem/issue you're having. Finding the right place or info is then much quicker. :P

I think re scaling, if you select something in the order of your native resolution of your display to begin with, you won't be scaling twice. Stop worrying if any of your inputs aren't working just yet - get the output to yout display right first. Use the VP30 test patterns to get the scaling, geometry (if any) grey scale, brightness and contrast set up first. That way, you're not likely to try to achieve a good picture by screwing up or down the various levels of your input sources (and thereby often overloading these input sources) to try to get a good picture.

Phil.

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Aussie and pandemik,

Have you both correctly pixel matched your panels. I think what DVDO are saying is that 1360x768 is the native resolution of the Fuji and several other 50" panels. Selecting that format is only the first step in pixel matching the display. Resizing it to provide a one pixel border in test pattern one is the next step and then you need to check the vertical, horizontal and checkerboard patterns (3, 4 & 5) for any moire' effect to see if its mapped or not. If you see shimmering in these test patterns, then you need to adjust the display's clock phase. Doing this, you should see it lock into native resolution. This should provide the best output possible. I suggest you pixel map the digital output at 60hZ as one saved profile, a 50hZ pixel mapped anaolgue output as the second profile and use the last couple of profiles for HDCP inputs.

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I think re scaling, if you select something in the order of your native resolution of your display to begin with, you won't be scaling twice. Stop worrying if any of your inputs aren't working just yet - get the output to yout display right first. Use the VP30 test patterns to get the scaling, geometry (if any) grey scale, brightness and contrast set up first. That way, you're not likely to try to achieve a good picture by screwing up or down the various levels of your input sources (and thereby often overloading these input sources) to try to get a good picture.

Phil.

Hi Phil,

yep I have taken this exact approach, sorted out the test patterns first, got the positioning right on the screen, etc etc as you have suggested.

not overly concerned about HDMI at this stage, as dont have any HDCP devices (and I dont believe my DVI interface supports HDCP according to plasmavision.com), although definitely need to get the interface looked at.

I tend to agree with something that Aussie said earlier, and that is that one of the 720p output modes looks by far the best to me, in terms of picture sharpness, colours etc.. but direct connection of my source devices still looks obviously better to me..

Phil is it your view that the VP30 has made a big difference in PQ for you, for the better? as certainly not the case for me at this (relatively early I guess) stage

May I ask what devices you have connected, and what panel you have?

many thanks :blink:

Aussie and pandemik,

Have you both correctly pixel matched your panels. I think what DVDO are saying is that 1360x768 is the native resolution of the Fuji and several other 50" panels. Selecting that format is only the first step in pixel matching the display. Resizing it to provide a one pixel border in test pattern one is the next step and then you need to check the vertical, horizontal and checkerboard patterns (3, 4 & 5) for any moire' effect to see if its mapped or not. If you see shimmering in these test patterns, then you need to adjust the display's clock phase. Doing this, you should see it lock into native resolution. This should provide the best output possible. I suggest you pixel map the digital output at 60hZ as one saved profile, a 50hZ pixel mapped anaolgue output as the second profile and use the last couple of profiles for HDCP inputs.

hi cummo :P

yeah I spent a lot of time doing this, and as far as the patterns go, all looks good, sharp, etc

however when I then turn the patterns off, and look at some actual content, it is very average, looks out of focus (ie a bit blurry), colours washed out, erK.

if I "dont bother" with pixel map, and use say a 720p mode, picture is much much better, sharper, better colours, but still overall not better than just directly connecting to the panel...

I will go play some more with the pixel mapping, just for the hell of it

cheers :P

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Aussie and pandemik,

Have you both correctly pixel matched your panels. I think what DVDO are saying is that 1360x768 is the native resolution of the Fuji and several other 50" panels. Selecting that format is only the first step in pixel matching the display. Resizing it to provide a one pixel border in test pattern one is the next step and then you need to check the vertical, horizontal and checkerboard patterns (3, 4 & 5) for any moire' effect to see if its mapped or not. If you see shimmering in these test patterns, then you need to adjust the display's clock phase. Doing this, you should see it lock into native resolution. This should provide the best output possible. I suggest you pixel map the digital output at 60hZ as one saved profile, a 50hZ pixel mapped anaolgue output as the second profile and use the last couple of profiles for HDCP inputs.

Yep fellas, no shortcuts to get it right. Pages 32 to 36 say it all. Out with grog and forget about the missus for tonight. :blink:

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Hi Phil,

Phil is it your view that the VP30 has made a big difference in PQ for you, for the better? as certainly not the case for me at this (relatively early I guess) stage

May I ask what devices you have connected, and what panel you have?

Hi again panamik. Yep, just click on my alias JPP and look under Interests - you'll see the complete equipment list there. I'v turned off the signatures on my control panel for this forum, as certain individuals, (and one in particular starting with a "g") have signatures so long that they take up half the page. I thought it neater and better to put that sort of info in the Personal Profile folder.

For me, the difference is night and day. My 40in LCD is a bit long in the tooth now, and whilst the display panel itself is just plain fantastic (forget about the comments that some people make about angle of viewing, brightness, contrast etc), the scalar electronics is pretty average to be kind to it - seen worse, but not by much). So, when a VP30 takes over that function, it truly shines. People who see it think it's one of the latest bright HD Plasmas, and they don't believe you when you say they are watching SD broadcasts.

Hope that spurs you on to get that display of yours working properly.

Phil.

Edited by JPP
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For me, the difference is night and day.

the scalar electronics [in the 40" LCD] is pretty average to be kind to it - seen worse, but not by much). So, when a VP30 takes over that function, it truly shines. People who see it think it's one of the latest bright HD Plasmas, and they don't believe you when you say they are watching SD broadcasts.

hey dude,

thanks again for your reponses;

I guess my question here is, and for the sake of "argument" (not that im arguing of course :blink:, is it possible the AVM-II scaling technology in the Fuji panel is at least better than average, if not pretty good, and as such the VP30 is not adding any real value? this is certainly my observation thus far

I would be happy to be shot-down for that comment, as it would mean I am going to actually see some improvment if/when I get it properly configured :P

So I guess I need to find someone with the same panel as me (50" 40-series Fuji), and a VP30 - so far this includes AussieX3, but I think he feels about the same as me at this point

Anyone else here with a current model Fuji and a VP30, and has similar praise of the VP30 as Phil (ie, difference is "night-and-day", which is what I was expecting/hoping for...)

cheers & many thanks:)

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Hi Phil,

yep I have taken this exact approach, sorted out the test patterns first, got the positioning right on the screen, etc etc as you have suggested.

not overly concerned about HDMI at this stage, as dont have any HDCP devices (and I dont believe my DVI interface supports HDCP according to plasmavision.com), although definitely need to get the interface looked at.

I tend to agree with something that Aussie said earlier, and that is that one of the 720p output modes looks by far the best to me, in terms of picture sharpness, colours etc.. but direct connection of my source devices still looks obviously better to me..

Phil is it your view that the VP30 has made a big difference in PQ for you, for the better? as certainly not the case for me at this (relatively early I guess) stage

May I ask what devices you have connected, and what panel you have?

many thanks :blink:

hi cummo :P

yeah I spent a lot of time doing this, and as far as the patterns go, all looks good, sharp, etc

however when I then turn the patterns off, and look at some actual content, it is very average, looks out of focus (ie a bit blurry), colours washed out, erK.

if I "dont bother" with pixel map, and use say a 720p mode, picture is much much better, sharper, better colours, but still overall not better than just directly connecting to the panel...

I will go play some more with the pixel mapping, just for the hell of it

cheers :P

Glad to hear I am not the only one seeing better pictures on 720p@60Hz mode with Fujitsu. Pandemik, I also agree that direct connection into Fuji from AUSID via component at 1080i@50Hz looks slightly better than scaled version by VP30. I though wanted to use the audio switching on VP30 as my amp only has optical and AUSID is S/PDIF so I connected S-Vid from AUSID and mapped the audio for S/PDIF this way I can use audio from VP30 and still view TV either on Video 3 (Component input to Fuji direct) or Video 5 (S-video via VP30). Many of you suggested to use component input into VP30 for scaling as well but hoenstly. I could not see apparent improvement on picture and as I said number of times, S-video looked more like soft and cinema like...

Yes most definately, 1360x768 or 1366x768 on Fuji mapping looks washed a bit and color faded compare to 720p@60hz....I totally agree with the logic that 1:1 mapping should be the best picture possible logically but at the end of the day, I bought VP30 to see better picture and 1:1 just doesn't on my Fuji (other brands may work fine). of course, unless a wiz like Glenncol come out with the best possible settings to shut me up. hehehe....

hey dude,

thanks again for your reponses;

I guess my question here is, and for the sake of "argument" (not that im arguing of course :P, is it possible the AVM-II scaling technology in the Fuji panel is at least better than average, if not pretty good, and as such the VP30 is not adding any real value? this is certainly my observation thus far

I would be happy to be shot-down for that comment, as it would mean I am going to actually see some improvment if/when I get it properly configured :D

So I guess I need to find someone with the same panel as me (50" 40-series Fuji), and a VP30 - so far this includes AussieX3, but I think he feels about the same as me at this point

Anyone else here with a current model Fuji and a VP30, and has similar praise of the VP30 as Phil (ie, difference is "night-and-day", which is what I was expecting/hoping for...)

cheers & many thanks:)

pandemik, if you want to see the night-and-day difference, hook up the VCR then you will see it. then again my VCR is only worth for my little one's videos so u may not be in the same situation as me when it comes to VCR. I was thinking the same thing as you with AVM-II being superior in some ways.. because when we see 720p@60Hz from VP30 to be better picture than the native resolution, it should be the AVM-II doing again another scaling job of output from VP30 if I am not wrong which may explain why and how it makes a better PQ on fuji at 720p@60 from VP30....

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Glad to hear I am not the only one seeing better pictures on 720p@60Hz mode with Fujitsu. Pandemik, I also agree that direct connection into Fuji from AUSID via component at 1080i@50Hz looks slightly better than scaled version by VP30. I though wanted to use the audio switching on VP30 as my amp only has optical and AUSID is S/PDIF so I connected S-Vid from AUSID and mapped the audio for S/PDIF this way I can use audio from VP30 and still view TV either on Video 3 (Component input to Fuji direct) or Video 5 (S-video via VP30). Many of you suggested to use component input into VP30 for scaling as well but hoenstly. I could not see apparent improvement on picture and as I said number of times, S-video looked more like soft and cinema like...

Yes most definately, 1360x768 or 1366x768 on Fuji mapping looks washed a bit and color faded compare to 720p@60hz....I totally agree with the logic that 1:1 mapping should be the best picture possible logically but at the end of the day, I bought VP30 to see better picture and 1:1 just doesn't on my Fuji (other brands may work fine). of course, unless a wiz like Glenncol come out with the best possible settings to shut me up. hehehe....

Fellas, we'll have to stop meeting like this....... people might think......

Sounds like you still don't have 1:1 pixel mapping on the Fuji. If your picture looks blurred, then the panel is scaling. If you get it looking right and sharp on the test patterns, but then when you switch to an input source, what does the info panel on the VP30 say when you look at the output res? Does it still read the same res as when you set it or has it "popped" back to some other value? There must be something going on between setting it up with the test patterns and switching to an input source afterwards. Did you go through the full gamut of settings gummo talked about? Like clock speeds etc etc. I think the Fuji might be restting itself when you switch from test pattern to input source. Does the Fuji panel have an info button where you can see what it thinks is the input format? Does that change once you switch to an input source?

Edited by JPP
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I hate this merging feature.... how can we disable it? I don't care about the posting number if it is what the forum trying to prevent people posting short replies number of times... but it is not doing anything to make the forum better other than getting people confused... CORAL!! could u help us?

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Fellas, we'll have to stop meeting like this....... people might think......

Sounds like you still don't have 1:1 pixel mapping on the Fuji. If your picture looks blurred, then the panel is scaling. If you get it looking right and sharp on the test patterns, but then when you switch to an input source, what does the info panel on the VP30 say when you look at the output res? Does it still read the same res as when you set it or has it "popped" back to some other value? There must be something going on between setting it up with the test patterns and switching to an input source afterwards. Did you go through the full gamut of settings gummo talked about? Like clock speeds etc etc. I think the Fuji might be restting itself when you switch from test pattern to input source. Does the Fuji panel have an info button where you can see what it thinks is the input format? Does that change once you switch to an input source?

ahahaha shhhhhh!!!! :P

yeah something has to be going screwey in terms of "popping" into different modes, the blurry/washed-out look is not cool. And even the 720p mode on the VP30 does not look as good as the simple direct connect option... also found that motion on the VP30 looks way ugly compared to direct connect (ie panning of the camera etc) - its not a judder problem, just pretty average pixelation and artefacts around portions of the screen that are moving, or around the edges of objects.... so something not right, or VP30=stoopid.

yeah I have done the whole 1:1 routine a few times now, every step etc, one pixel-width for the first pattern, and then correct looking patters for the others as per manual - cant see how I could screw it up, but...

I tried to see what the Fuji thought the signal was, but for my DVI input, it wont tell me details for resolution or anything, it just says RGB-AUTO. (I can get details for other inputs,but not DVI), so its very hard to tell what mode the fuji thinks it is in

grr grr grr!!! :blink:

I know for a fact that Aussie & I arent the only Fuji/VP30(/Toppy/AUSID/etc) combo users, so Im hoping a few more pipe-up on here pretty soon... (like NOW... please :P hehe

cheers :P

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ahahaha shhhhhh!!!! :P

yeah I have done the whole 1:1 routine a few times now, every step etc, one pixel-width for the first pattern, and then correct looking patters for the others as per manual - cant see how I could screw it up, but...

cheers :P

How many profiles have you saved so far? (take it you saved each one as you did it in one of the 4 user profiles). Any luck with 60Hz instead of 50Hz? Methinks from reading other posts that the Fuji doesn't like 50Hz? :blink:

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How many profiles have you saved so far? (take it you saved each one as you did it in one of the 4 user profiles). Any luck with 60Hz instead of 50Hz? Methinks from reading other posts that the Fuji doesn't like 50Hz? :blink:

yeah I have saved a few profiles, but also done a factory reset or two, for the "Clean slate" approach

hmmm, I just saw some screenshots over on AVSforum for what the "checkerboard" test pattern should and should not look like for 1:1 mapping (one has a clear checkerboard like I see, one has a flat/grey colour on screen)

I get what clearly looks like a light-grey/dark-grey checker-boards from my viewing distance at 3.5m

but I think I should be getting what looks like a clear/grey screen?

so a bit confused as to what I SHOULD be seeing (Anyone who has it working have a camera handy?)

That, combined with this statement from the manual, concerns me a bit:

"NOTE: if this test pattern does not appear as it should, and you have chosen the native resolution of your display, you may not be able to bypass the internal processing of your display"

eeeeeekkkkk

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