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Fuji 40 series owners color temp settings.


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These settings might not be perfect for everyone, but I think they are a great start for anyone that isnt in a position to fork out another $300 - $400 for a professional calibration after already forking out around $5000 - $8000 for the Fuji. I would imagine quite a few of us pushed our budgets to the limit or even exceeded them so that we could have in my opinion the best plasma on the market at this point in time.

Mal

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These settings might not be perfect for everyone, but I think they are a great start for anyone that isnt in a position to fork out another $300 - $400 for a professional calibration after already forking out around $5000 - $8000 for the Fuji. I would imagine quite a few of us pushed our budgets to the limit or even exceeded them so that we could have in my opinion the best plasma on the market at this point in time.

Mal

That's pretty much what I said Mal, though I think it was in another one of phreek's threads. As I said in the other thread, these settings will probably look a lot better than the out-of-the-box settings, but if you want to get the best out of your panel, then it's going to cost some money for a professional calibration.

We also have to keep this in perspective, the accuracy of the hardware with the Spyder2 is unlikely to be as accurate as a $20,000 device that an ISF calibrator would use. Then there is also the skill and training of the operator.

I also have to say that I would not be running the Brightness and Drive Contrast as high as phreek has suggested, especially in the first 200 hours. I have received numerous PM's from people with image retention problems because they've had these settings too high.... yes it still happens, even on our beloved Fuji's.

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I would...

1. Turn down the Drive Contrast to 65 or less

2. Use Fine mode instead of Natural

3. Turn the brightness down to 0 or less

4. Turn the Blue Colour temp down below 200

If you don't run in your panel like this, you will be risking burn-in and reducing the life of the panel.

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I have received numerous PM's from people with image retention problems because they've had these settings too high.... yes it still happens, even on our beloved Fuji's.

Image retention, really. I havent seen anything that even vaguely resembles image retention on my Fuji. Have they got everything cranked up to the max? I cant stand the image when everything is too bright, just doesnt look natural.

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Image retention, really. I havent seen anything that even vaguely resembles image retention on my Fuji. Have they got everything cranked up to the max? I cant stand the image when everything is too bright, just doesnt look natural.

Yeah, there's usually an associated story of the kids leaving a DVD menu or the xbox/PS2 on for a while. This will still happen eventually with the settings turned down, but it is dramatically accelerated when you have them dialled up.

One person was also using a the "Effective" picture mode, and this was causing image retention within 15 min. That mode should be avoided like a Balinese boogie board salesman.

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Unfortunately I've been a bit busy this week and haven't been able to do anything more with the SpyderTV.

What I plan to do this weekend is sit down and find the ideal settings for FINE picture mode as I've found that to be a lot nicer for the 'film' look that plasma is so uniquely capable of. I'll publish the results of the Fine mode when I do them.

I've also found another gold mine of settings which has tamed the abundance of colour some people have noticed especially with the red. I am thinking that the colour temperature settings which determine the white / gray level also influence the rendition of other colours.

In Precision Settings there is a color focus menu which contains a way of fine tuning the colours and I've already been working on bringing the red under control with the settings I have been using in Natural mode.

With the Fine picture setting I'll be sure to include these considerations. I'll try to get some pictures of the screenshots, software + hardware while I'm at it. If anyone would like me to try something they've thought of then be sure to let me know.

Regards.

I should say that the colour temp setting is probably THE most important one though - and I have not changed it at all since calibrating it. With the colour temp, most other settings can be played around with and while they might affect the colour temp a little they won't alter it in a major way in my experience. I'm going to test out how much the colour/brightness settings affect the colour temp. I'll report all my findings in due course.

I also put the color temp settings into a Harvey Norman panel and as I predicted the results were excellent on the 7 loop - esp with its snow scenes etc - that together with many peoples positive experiences shows that there is some degree of conformity (?uniformity) in this.

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OK I have some new figures which relate to the FINE picture mode rather than the NATURAL settings above.

It is not surprising perhaps that the settings for color temperature change with the mode change. I found that the setting actually changes slightly with brightness changes also.

I'll give the readings taken at the two brightnesses in case someone wants the lower brightness setting. The color was dialled down as some people mentioned the color was a bit intense which I have to agree with.

The conditions were in a room with only a 16W fluoro 6500K bias light behind the 42" Fuji plasma.

The first settings are at the higher calculated brightness:

DC: 80

Brightness: +9

Color: +2

Tint: +1

User Color Temp (in precision settings)

Red: 255

Green: 222

Blue: 165

Here is the screenshot of the final calibration showing the measurement at 6499K ie. very very close.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/zuiko/Calib.jpg

Note the luminance figure is 101.7 cd/m2. That's important and I'll comment on it later.

Here are the lower brightness settings:

DC: 80

Brightness: 0

Color: +2

Tint:+1

User Color Temp (in precision settings)

Red: 254

Green: 233

Blue: 172

Here is the screenshot for these settings which shows the measurement at 6502K, again very very close. Note the lower luminance for this brightness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/zuiko/Calib2.jpg

I checked the settings with OptiCal which shows more fluctuation with even small changes around those figures I've put up here. One unit of blue can send the measurement up 50 degrees. The measurement in both cases with the published figure was 6490K with OptiCal which increments in units of 10.

Here is the screenshot:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/zuiko/Calib3.jpg

I kept the drive contrast at the measured best from the SpyderTV software. Hope this helps others who want to use the FINE mode and reduced brightness settings.

Regards.

In relation to the luminance. While Fujitsu claims 1000 cd/m2 other reviewers have found a lower figure also. See this:

http://shop.pcmag.com/shop/product/Fujitsu...S/21915934.aspx

"One glaring flaw with Fujitsu's TV, however, is that it's simply not very bright. When displaying a full white field, we measured an average white level of 109 candelas per square meter (cd/m2), which is very low. This is more of a voltage drive issue, since most plasmas can't drive a purely white screen to high brightness levels. Still, you'll lose some detail in dark scenes if you're in a well-lit room."

and you can see that 109 cd/m2 was the measurement there even though that was the 55" (which uses a similar technology ie. e-ALiS).

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Thanks again, phreek, for another set of excellent figures. I found your "lower brightness settings" to look the best on my panel.

I've stored all three (the original "Natural" settings and the two "Fine" sets, in picture memories 1, 2 & 3). All I need is discrete remote codes to load these via my Harmony remote, it's a bit painful going through the menus to the load option (or cycling around all 8 using the button on the remote).

Keep up the good work, phreek - it is appreciated!

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A big part of the calibration of TV's has to do with educating oneself about all the jargon and how it works in practice.

I've been reading all I can now about IRE levels and their relationship to colour temp through gamma curves.

I've just ordered an AVIA disc which I hope together with the calibration tool will allow me to get even better adjustments for the colour and bias settings in the Color Focus menu.

I'll post the results of these investigations in a week or two once I have the disc and have enough practical knowledge to apply it.

I am also now finding the lower brightness with FINE mode to be excellent all round. Very nice for DVD film based movies.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

Probably a final update on the settings I am now using following receiving and using the AVIA calibration disc to fine tune things.

I also used the 20-100 IRE window patterns on the AVIA disc to check the 6500K greyscale tracking of the Fujitsu 42" panel with the settings I've published before/above. This is what D6500 is all about - how closely the panel can match 6500K at the various white levels.

I firstly set the drive contrast at 70. The reason being that too low a drive contrast introduces colour banding artefacts and too high leads to early plasma phosphor extinguishing. 80 was the measured ideal - and 70 is a good compromise without getting into the colour banding /solarisation issues.

The black level was set using AVIA and its moving line test. The panel needed Brightness = -3 to make the left line disappear but allow the right line to be just visible. An excellent and repeatable test.

The sharpness was set to -9 based on the testing in AVIA.

Now to the greyscale tracking. I used AVIA to find that my panel was tracking a gamma curve of between 1.8 and 1.9. Close enough to 1.8 to use that figure.

I was using the colour temp setting:

Red: 255

Green: 228

Blue: 165

and this had been set using a computer generated RGB value of #FFFFFF ie. max white.

Here is the greyscale tracking results with this setting using OptiCAL software...

10 IRE: 7440 <--- ignore - the SpyderTV and other devices are poor below 20IRE

20 IRE: 6540

30 IRE: 6150

40 IRE: 6230

50 IRE: 6340

60 IRE: 6460

70 IRE: 6380

80 IRE: 6470

90 IRE: 6430

100 IRE: 6430

Very close to 6500K but a little on the low side throughout - and I'd noticed a slight red/yellow tinge sometimes in normal scenes.

I set about adjusting the greyscale / colour temp settings at the lower IRE levels to find the colour temp settings that would be closer to 6500K...

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 164 gave 6510K at 20 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 171 gave 6530K at 30 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 174 gave 6490K at 40 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6500K at 50 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6500K at 60 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6530K at 70 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6510K at 80 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6540K at 90 IRE

Red: 255, Green: 228, Blue: 167 gave 6530K at 20 IRE

This shows how good the Fujitsu is at tracking the 6500K at the various IRE levels with a gamma curve of 1.8

I have settled now on the following settings as final for this panel P42HHA40US:

Drive Contrast: 70

Brightness: -3

Colour: -2

Tint: -2

Sharpness: -9

Ambient Sensor: Off

Picture Mode: Fine

Precision Settings.

Black Level: 0

User Color Temp

Red: 255

Green: 228

Blue: 167

Color Focus:

R (Targeting Reddish Color)

Tint: -1

Color: +1

Red: +1

Green: -1

Blue: -1

r (Targeting Red Color)

Tint: +1

Color: -4

y (Targeting Yellow Color)

Tint: -1

Color: -1

All others in color focus menu ie. G, B, g, b, m etc. are 0 ie. no changes.

These settings give an almost perfect D6500 calibration on my panel.

I watched the superbit 5th Element tonight with these settings and the PQ is even better than I'd seen yet. If you own this model panel then I'm almost certain you will also get great results with these settings. Please do try them and let us know how your panel responds. The tint is a subjective thing and affects skin tones dramatically - +ve figures give a more yellowish tone to reds, and -ve figures more reddish. I find -2 gives the best overall look to the reds and skin tones.

I know some owners have already commented on how good the settings were already, but I had not fine tuned them to the extent I have now. The black levels are absolutely wonderful to match the enhanced PQ a good greyscale setting gives.

Enjoy!

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