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Hi Owen,

1. You mentioned in your previous post that you should never press the 'Magic Focus' button again. Does this reset the convergence grid to the factory default?

2. Is it difficult to do the lens and electrostatic focus? I found this in the service manual but it seems too technical. I checked good sites like Keohi, but can't find much info on this procedure. Could you please give a LAY MENS description to do this.

Thanks again for your help.

Dave.

Jaime,

Thanks for the kind words mate.

Contrast and Brightness settings could vary significantly depending on viewing environment, and will change for night and day viewing. so don’t pay much attention to what others are using.

The main thing is to not have the contrast set any higher then needed.

There in only one level in the service menu, with about 600 numbered settings, most of which are not documented in the manual.

Don’t be scared to do the manual convergence.

It’s not that difficult, and is really required to get a good HD picture.

Using an external test patten form a PC makes life easier, but the internal grid pattern is adequate, and more then good enough for setting up the PAL SD convergence.

There is no need to adjust the Green gun unless you want to correct for a geometric error, but again, don’t be scared to adjust green if the geometry needs work.

Just remember not to use the “Magic Focus” button ever again.

To adjust the 1080 HD convergence, you need a 1080i source connected.

Unfortunately, getting the grey scale right is near impossible by eye, although you can improving things if you have a reference monitor to compare with.

As long as you write down the original settings, you can always go back without problems.

Newby,

Unfortunately my Hitachi is set up so differently to standard, that none of my settings would be relevant to you or anyone else on this planet. :blink:

For best performance you will need to do lens and electrostatic focus, adjust overscan (as much as possible), geometry and convergence, and of cause gray scale.

After that we move on to modifications that include lens stips, blacking out the interior of the cabinet, and if you are really serious, reportioning the CRT’s to reduce overscan and give the sharpest image.

Good luck to you both, and if you have a specific question, you can ask here.

Cop Ya Latter,

Owen

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi Owen,

1. You mentioned in your previous post that you should never press the 'Magic Focus' button again. Does this reset the convergence grid to the factory default?

2. Is it difficult to do the lens and electrostatic focus? I found this in the service manual but it seems too technical. I checked good sites like Keohi, but can't find much info on this procedure. Could you please give a LAY MENS description to do this.

Thanks again for your help.

Dave.

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As far as I know, pressing the “Magic Focus” button will make the TV attempt to regain the convergence adjustments set in the convergence menu, by using sensors around the edge of the screen.

It does not just reset the factory defaults.

However, the auto convergence will never be as good as the manual adjustment, and you will have wasted the time you put into the manual adjustment.

Don’t use it.

If adjustment drifts over time, do another manual adjustment. That should not be required more then a couple of times a year.

Both lens and electrostatic focus is not difficult.

The procedure in the service manual is not the best way to do it.

You need to remove the wooden, cover just below the screen, so you can get at the lens adjustments, and place cardboard covers over the lenses that are not being adjusted.

To do the 1080 HD adjustments, you need a PC generated 1080i cross hatch or convergence grid.

Once you have entered convergence mode, by pushing the little blue button, you can use the remote to get rid of the TV’s internal convergence grid if required

You simply loosen the wing nut and free the rubber washer on each lens, then twist to adjust.

You can use the wing nut stud as a lever to help twist each lens

Remember to cover the lenses not being adjusted.

You need to adjust to get the best average focus over the entire screen area, not just in the centre, so it will take a bit of experimenting.

Electrostatic focus is much simpler.

You only need to adjust the focus screws which are locked with white paint, (but will free easily) to give the tightest beam in the centre of the screen.

Be VERY careful NOT to adjust the “Screen” voltage adjustment screws by mistake.

The three “Focus” adjusters are right next to the three “Screen” adjusters, and look exactly the same, so mark them clearly, so there is NO chance of adjusting the “Screen” voltage adjustment by mistake.

WHAT EVER YOU DO, DON’T TOUCH THE SCREEN VOLTAGE SCREWS.

Have a go, you cant do anything that is not easily recovered, unless you touch those dreaded “Screen” voltage adjusters.

Remember that convergence needs to be done for each mode, 1080 50Hz, 1080 60Hz, 576 50Hz and 576 100Hz.

Once you have performed the relatively easy adjustments to focus, geometry and convergence, you will have a nice clean sharp 1080 picture at your viewing position.

You can then move on the hair pulling task of getting the gray scale right. :blink:

Getting the red push out is VERY difficult but, possible with the aid of a reference monitor and colour measurement equipment.

Have fun.

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Hi guys,

I have had my Hitachi calibrated now, but one problem still remains and it may or may not be related to the tv. The ISF technician who calibrated my greyscale told me that the reds are showing CUE (Chroma Upscaling Error). This is very distracting and takes the form of vertical/horizontal lines and jagged edges. He told me that it is a decoder error in the dvd player and I have read about this problem on the internet to try to solve the problem. However, I have now tried 3 different dvd players on the Hitachi and 2 of them do not exhibit signs of CUE on my 68 cm JVC, but it is incredibly pronounced on the Hitachi. I can't figure this out? Anyone encounter this problem on the C47-wd5000? I tried switching to the 100hz mode and it actually minimised the effect, but only slightly. This chroma problem has nothing to do with the TV color decoder or color temperature, so maybe the dvd players are not displaying well on this model. Any help is much appreciated.

Dave.

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Yep, the Hitachi is merciless at exposing CUE, especially on highly saturated reds.

CUE is a common problem with many DVD players, and there is nothing you can do on the display to fix it.

I have completely eliminated CUE on my HTPC setup, but CUE is still common in software video playback applications.

I have never uses a stand alone DVD player with my Hitachi, and I have never investigated which players are free of CUE, so I cant help much.

Digital TV STB’s and PVR’s are prone to the same problem.

In fact., anything that decodes compressed video is a potential problem.

Good luck mate.

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Thanks Owen. Atleast I have the TV calibrated to the best of its ability, with standard dvd that is. I haven't raised the CRT frame though.

Fingers crossed that HD-DVD and Blue-Ray minimise this problem.

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  • 4 months later...

Well, after having my 5000 for about 18months and having a house move inbetween I got a Tech out that was recommended by Hitachi to fix my colour problem and to sort my convergence. I asked if they do this type of thing often and was told yes.

Well he arrived with no tools, came in adjusted the settings with the remote and left. VERY ANNOYED!!

Had the same response when I asked about using anything other than the eye to tune everything, he said "Nope, no need to as he has been doing it long enough and knows what to do"

Result. Picture colour better but I think I still lack the full benefit of this unit.

Can any one recommend a tuner in Perth.

Also have the same problem with losing the bottom of my picture on some stations. Was told it is a transmission thing from the different stations. Any Ideas?

Jason.

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Sounds like you got what you paid for mate.

For starters, you need to remove the lower front panel to get at a little blue button that brings up the service mode convergence adjustment.

You cant get into the convergence menu without doing that as far as I know, and I have the service manual.

As for getting the colour and gray scale even close to right by eye, especially without appropriate test patterns, well that’s not happening.

When you do get the colour set up properly, you will know it, as all the red push will be gone and the colour will just look “right”.

I cant remember how much overscan my Hitachi originally had, but it now has almost none.

You can adjust some of it out in the service menu, but you will need to modify the set to really get it down to the minimum practical overscan of about 2%.

Less then that and you get to many artifact on the edges of the picture.

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone know whether there is a difference in color/greyscale between the Virtual HD and 100hz modes? I have compared the two with standard definition inputs and they look very different, with the 100hz mode producing accurate greyscale and the virtual HD looking significantly different. Any advice would be helpful... :blink:

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Grey scale adjustment is common to all modes; however each input can have different presets applied to it, which can affect colour and grey scale, so check what colour mode (Warm, Cool) you are using and if custom colour setting are in use which they should not be.

I don’t recommend you use the 100Hz mode on the Hitachi, as quality really suffers compared to virtual HD (1080i) or 576p.

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Thanks. I think that the Virtual HD and 576p modes require good quality component outputs to playback correctly. I was using a high quality s-video and it seemed to playback video more accurately on the 100hz mode. Today I used some component outputs and the image is remarkably better.

Grey scale adjustment is common to all modes; however each input can have different presets applied to it, which can affect colour and grey scale, so check what colour mode (Warm, Cool) you are using and if custom colour setting are in use which they should not be.

I don’t recommend you use the 100Hz mode on the Hitachi, as quality really suffers compared to virtual HD (1080i) or 576p.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a couple of questions that I'd appreciate someone answering. I have the Hitachi C47-Wd5000, I use an Onkyo dvd player with component cable inputs. The tv has had greyscale, convergence, etc.. done!

1. Is it better to use the 'theater' mode on the tv rather than 'favourite' mode? If yes, why?

2. I notice when using the 'theater' mode that when a dark object moves through light areas of the image it causes flickering. Anyone know of this problem. I think the 'black stretch' function which can't be disabled in this mode is possibly causing it?

3. The technician who did my greyscale said that there is a bit of green in the dark end of the greyscale which can't be adjusted out. This is evident in Virtual HD mode, but when I switch to 100hz mode it is not. Also, the Virtual HD mode is too bright, but when I turn down the contrast very low its still too bright. The 100hz mode has no problem and looks more natural. It seems the Virtual HD mode is defective or something because it just looks awful. Anyone know of this and how to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

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It should not matter what you use.

The “Theatre” setting is just another memory config, no different to any other except some of the features of the “Favorites” setting are not available.

Black stretch and most other “picture enhancement” are disabled in “Theatre”.

I don’t have flicking problems in “Theatre mode” but I only use Theater for my HTPC which is outputting 1080i.

Any input can be assigned a setting, Theatre, Favorites, Dynamic whatever, and each setting can be customized to suit.

As for the green in your gray scale, I cant see why that cant be adjusted out.

How did the service dude adjust your gray scale, in the user menu or the service menu?

Did he have a service manual?

I never use 100Hz mode on my 57” Hitachi, as the picture is disgusting in that mode. with nasty interlacing artifacts easily visible.

Progressive (576p) or Virtual HD (1080i) modes are the way to go. Both look very similar for SD.

There should be no difference in brightness between modes.

I have Contrast set at around 25.

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He adjusted the greyscale in the service mode, because I own the service manual. He set the TV to "Warm" and he said he would make adjustments from that using the cool settings items 45-49. He had all the correct measuring equipment and his laptop and he double checked that the temperature was set correctly. I even saw the results my self. But greyscale seems perfectly fine in 100hz mode, but not in Virtual HD. I'm stumped. I've also checked all original service mode settings and they are fine. Maybe its because I'm not using a HTPC or Hd player on Virtual Hd mode?

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100Hz mode is VERY poor on my set, I cannot use it.

Even though grey sale adjustments are common to all inputs, you should calibrate for the mode and inputs you intend to use.

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  • 1 month later...

A couple of questions:

Does this model support 1080i inputs? I connected an xbox 360 with the HD component inputs and in the setup chose 1080i and the image becomes very soft and blurry with blooming contrast and very dark shadows. When pressing RECALL on the tv remote it says the tv is in HD mode. I then changed the mode in the xbox 360 setup menu to 470p and the image was alot sharper with correct whites and blacks. It seems the tv doesnt display HD correctly and maybe this tv can't? Any advice on this issue?

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A couple of questions:

Does this model support 1080i inputs? I connected an xbox 360 with the HD component inputs and in the setup chose 1080i and the image becomes very soft and blurry with blooming contrast and very dark shadows. When pressing RECALL on the tv remote it says the tv is in HD mode. I then changed the mode in the xbox 360 setup menu to 470p and the image was alot sharper with correct whites and blacks. It seems the tv doesnt display HD correctly and maybe this tv can't? Any advice on this issue?

What exactly do you mean by 1080i inputs?? I use this set with a THomson DTI1500HD STB at 1080i and a Mediagate MG350HD at 1080i and both look good. I eeven tried ny new LG LST 5403P HDPVR using component at 1080i and it was really good. It sounds like the input device (i.e. Xbox) has a problem, as I have seen the blooming effect and dark shadows on another set (palsonic WS76HD CRT), and it was the STB I was using. Try another input device on component re: STB or DVD player or NMP.

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The Hitachi is a 1080i native display. It will even upconvert 480i or 576i to 1080i for display.

You may need to adjust picture settings for the xbox input.

Also try a different input, the Hitachi has three component inputs from memory.

1080i should look MUCH, MUCH better then 480i.

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My c47-wd5000 has 2 component inputs, for AV1 and AV2. I've tried both inputs and the problem persists. It doesnt seem like a game specific problem as I have tried many discs. I've also connected a SD-DVD player via component inputs and I get a similar problem, but everything looks better with S-VIDEO, strange considering component is supposed to be the best! I've tinkered around with both the tv settings and the xbox360 settings but still no improvement. It seems I can only play the games at 480p, unless I want to sit infront of a fuzzy 1080i picture which has contrast blooming so much I feel like I've been sunbaking. Thanks for your help guys. I've been asking several other xbox 360 users on some forums and they haven't been on much help yet.

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Here are the specs for my model. Are these the same as you guys?

From...

http://aus.hitachi.com.au/hitachi/content/...cts.asp?ID=1538

Full Multi System

200 Program Preset

Digital Comb Filter

Memory Card Slot Available (requires PC card Adapter)

Progressive Scan/Virtual HD/100Hz (525i/p, 635i/p, 750p, 1125i)

HD Through Mode

Teletext

Front Panel Lighting

Magic Focus III (Auto Digital Convergence)

Contrast Ultrashield

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Mate, I have the 57” version, its a native 1080i display and works great at that res.

Sounds like there is something wrong with your set, or you have the contrast turned up to high, which will result in blooming.

If you can get hold of a calibration DVD like Digital Video Essentials, you can check your settings.

How bright is your viewing environment?

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My Hitachi does not need significantly different setting with analogue free to air TV, Foxtel via Svideo or 1080i from my HTPC via Conponent.

Your xbox is a good suspect.

Have use tried any other 1080i source, like a HD STB?

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