Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Cool Mat,

When you are ready.

I am now using a 6600GT, and much prefer it to my Radeon 9600 Pro for Component out quality.

The 6600 used with TheaterTek is the only solution I have found that can play 1080i .ts files without motion blur and jitter.

The advantage of a Transcoder is that they work with almost any video card including notebooks.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 163
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this board and have owned the 5000 model for almost a year now. I own the service manual and have conducted many essential mods and tweaks.

Here is what I have done so far:

1. Ran the set in for 100 hours before any adjustments.

2. Removed edge enhancement in the service menu for all inputs.

3. Completed greyscale balance.

4. As close as possible convergence for all inputs.

5. Lined the interior of the cabinet with black velvet cloth and spray painted any hard to reach areas. The base of the cabinet is also lined with the cloth. I have also made a cloth shield to cover the Magic Focus board and wires. The screws have been masked by very dark and strong masking tape to minimise reflections.

I have not attempted to do any lens stripping or color uniformity because that is out of my grasp and I would rather a professional do that.

I have some general questions that I would appreciate anyone answering.

1. As someone mentioned, the edges of the lenses can be blackened to reduce lens flare. What is the best method of doing this?

2. After lining the insides of the cabinet with cloth, I have noticed a lot of dust gets on the mirror and lenses. I have always taken precautions in covering up or masking both of these and also brushed and vacummed the inside before closing the screen. Does this dust cause any problems or is it a minor issue? If the dust is a problem, can someone recommend the best way to remove it? eg. a clean dry cloth or dust remover? Is it recommended not to clean the mirror in any way, or can it be safely done?

Thankyou

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good for you Dave,

Looks like you have been reading my posts. :blink:

I actually disconnected the wiring harness to the “Magic Focus” system and folded the wiring out of the way and tapped it up in black tape. You should not use the Magic Focus system ever again as it will stuff up you manual settings. It is also much easier to remove the screen with the wiring disconnected.

Lens stripping is very easy to do. It only involves applying a peace of black insulation tape to the outer edges of the outer most lenses.

It’s trial and error to establish how much lens to cover.

Blackening the edges of the lenses requires the lens stacks to be disassembled, which is a lot of effort for probably a small gain. I would not do it, as flare is minimal on the Hitachi and blacks are fantastic.

It can be useful to install a pair of cloth covered shields in front and behind the lenses to catch the light that is refracted from the edges of the lenses from directly shining onto the back of the screen or cabinet.

All light hitting the back of the screen should go via the mirror only and never directly from the lenses.

With these shields in place and the screen removed, you should not be able to see the lenses directly with your eyes where the screen should be.

I can post you a picture of this if you cant understand what I am on about.

I fabricated these shields out of a couple of peaces of scrap timber wrapped in black cloth and long enough to span the distance between the raised flat wooden area either side of the CRT’s.

They are not screwed down, they just sit there.

If you want to spend some time, I recommend raising the CRT support frame about 50mm or maybe a bit more.

This not only reduces overscan, but also improves picture sharpness, detail and colour intensity. It is worth doing, but it does take some time and effort to get the geometry and convergence back to normal.

To achieve this I simply removed the four screws that hold down the CRT frame and inserted peaces of timber under each side. Again they are not screwed down and just sit there.

I covered the entire area with black cloth with a whole cut out for the CRTs.

As for the dust, don’t worry about it to much as it will never be visible.

If you want to remove it, the best way is probably blow it off with compressed air.

You can by compressed air in a can for cleaning lenses etc.

Remember that the lenses are acrylic and scratch easily so a soft brush and compressed air, followed by careful use of a lens cleaning cloth from a camera shop to remove finger prints etc is the safest way to do it.

The same applies to the mirror, which is surface coated and very fragile.

Don’t touch it if you don’t have to.

I have successfully cleaned the mirror on a couple of RPTV’s using a well used , but freshly washed cotton bath towel or nappy with one corner dampened with mild detergent water mix.

This is also good for cleaning the outside of the screen.

NEVER USE PAPER TOWEL OR TISSUES TO CLEAN ANYTHING AS THEY ARE ABRASIVE.

Regards,

Owen

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Owen,

I appreciate the reply and so far I'm very impressed with the results of the calibration. Reading your comments on this topic has proven the potential for this model RPTV and the results speak for themselves. The greyscale balance was the biggest issue for me and the colours are much more pleasing now. I still have difficulty getting good convergence, but most sites claim that it is near impossible to achieve PERFECT convergence. I tend to get it very close, particularly whilst using a dvd for reference, but I think I lack the patience or expertise to achieve better results. Nonetheless, I am rather satisfied.

In regards to the black level, I am very impressed, but the lens flare has become very annoying and has hindered me from enjoying movies in a completely dark room. I find backlighting or floorlighting hides the issue to an extent and obviously improves the image as recommended by many sites, but I would be more content in watching movies in the dark.

As I previously mentioned, I'm not overly confident in the area of lens stripping. I have done some internet research in this area and it appears quite difficult. This because apparently it requires the white colour temperature to be adjusted after doing so? Furthermore, I'm not quite sure what lens stripping achieves by eye. i.e. Spotting temperature differences on the screen. Maybe, you can enlighten me on this process and how to do it by trial and error?

I'll take your advice in regards to avoiding blackening the edges of the lenses. For so little gain it won't be worth it, because I want to be very careful not to damage the lenses. It's quite funny, because everytime I open my TV I literally hold my breath, ensure my hands & clothes are clean, and ever so cautiously cover the lenses with a clean cloth. I'm also relieved the dust isn't a problem.

The shields at the front and back of the lenses is a good idea. A picture would be ideal if you could show me. I am sure I understand what you mean, but the dimensions and angling of the shields would throw me off. Do you place them close to the lenses or closer to the mirror and screen...Your advice is welcome in this issue.

To raise the CRT's by 50mm plus, I would need more advice. Where are the 4 screws you refer to and what precautions should I take in doing this? Looking at page 4 of the service manual can you point me to this area? I was hesistant about doing this mod because as you originally mentioned, there is an adverse effect on picture geometry and convergence. I haven't familiarised myself in adjusting picture geometry from the service manual because this was an area I do not want to attempt without a professional. Is this items 2.7 through 2.9 (Vertical size adjustment etc...)?

If cleaning the mirror or screen, do you know if Windex is suitable? I find this cleans bathroom mirrors nicely, but I am under the impression that the TV mirror is more inclined to leave unwanted markings or streaks.

Thanks for your advice and I am so glad I'm seeing the potential of this TV!

Dave.

Good for you Dave,

Looks like you have been reading my posts. :blink:

I actually disconnected the wiring harness to the “Magic Focus” system and folded the wiring out of the way and tapped it up in black tape. You should not use the Magic Focus system ever again as it will stuff up you manual settings. It is also much easier to remove the screen with the wiring disconnected.

Lens stripping is very easy to do. It only involves applying a peace of black insulation tape to the outer edges of the outer most lenses.

It’s trial and error to establish how much lens to cover.

Blackening the edges of the lenses requires the lens stacks to be disassembled, which is a lot of effort for probably a small gain. I would not do it, as flare is minimal on the Hitachi and blacks are fantastic.

It can be useful to install a pair of cloth covered shields in front and behind the lenses to catch the light that is refracted from the edges of the lenses from directly shining onto the back of the screen or cabinet.

All light hitting the back of the screen should go via the mirror only and never directly from the lenses.

With these shields in place and the screen removed, you should not be able to see the lenses directly with your eyes where the screen should be.

I can post you a picture of this if you cant understand what I am on about.

I fabricated these shields out of a couple of peaces of scrap timber wrapped in black cloth and long enough to span the distance between the raised flat wooden area either side of the CRT’s.

They are not screwed down, they just sit there.

If you want to spend some time, I recommend raising the CRT support frame about 50mm or maybe a bit more.

This not only reduces overscan, but also improves picture sharpness, detail and colour intensity. It is worth doing, but it does take some time and effort to get the geometry and convergence back to normal.

To achieve this I simply removed the four screws that hold down the CRT frame and inserted peaces of timber under each side. Again they are not screwed down and just sit there.

I covered the entire area with black cloth with a whole cut out for the CRTs.

As for the dust, don’t worry about it to much as it will never be visible.

If you want to remove it, the best way is probably blow it off with compressed air.

You can by compressed air in a can for cleaning lenses etc.

Remember that the lenses are acrylic and scratch easily so a soft brush and compressed air, followed by careful use of a lens cleaning cloth from a camera shop to remove finger prints etc is the safest way to do it.

The same applies to the mirror, which is surface coated and very fragile.

Don’t touch it if you don’t have to.

I have successfully cleaned the mirror on a couple of RPTV’s using a well used , but freshly washed cotton bath towel or nappy with one corner dampened with mild detergent water mix.

This is also good for cleaning the outside of the screen.

NEVER USE PAPER TOWEL OR TISSUES TO CLEAN ANYTHING AS THEY ARE ABRASIVE.

Regards,

Owen

Link to post
Share on other sites


Gday Dave,

The Hitachi has outstanding convergence control. It is possible to get line perfect convergence over the entire screen area if you have the right tools.

Perfect convergence is only required for HD, it has to be a long way out to be noticeable on SD source.

I have absolutely zero colour fringing, even on a HD resolution white convergence grid.

You can also get geometric errors down to about 1mm over the entire screen area, and on a 57” screen that pretty amazing IMHO. I doubt there are any LCD or DLP RPTV’s that can get even close to that.

Overscan and Contrast setting affect what appears to be lens flare. There is also the issue of beam scatter in the CRT tubes. Never the less, I have yet to see any display that has better blacks then my Hitachi.

For viewing in a completely dark room, you will need to turn the contrast WAY down.

I normally use a dim bias light behind the TV, as I find viewing in complete darkness hard on my eyes.

I have used Windex to clean the lenses and mirror. It does not do any harm, but I am not convinced it is the best stuff for the job.

The mirror is coated on the front, unlike a normal mirror and can be very easy to scratch, so you really can’t rub at it too much.

As for the rest of the info you require, it may be easier to show you rather then tell you if you live in or around Sydney.

Cop Ya Later,

Owen

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Owen,

I originally took your advice of having the contrast level between +25 and +30, but I much prefer around the +20 mark. Things do start to look a little "muddy" below this level. At this level and proper greyscale calibration I have no eye-strain whilst watching in the dark, but the lens flare seems more apparent, particularly when watching dark lit films. The movie Dark City exhibits lens flare in almost every scene.

I cleaned the screen with a soft towell and windex and that is very effective, but it's best I don't touch the mirror and lenses.

It would be good if you could show me some of your mods and tweaks, but unfortunately I'm from Melbourne, so a picture or explanation will have to suffice at your convenience.

Does yourself or anyone else on this board understand BLACK STRETCH? I've searched the net for explanations of this technology, but I can't find anything. It seems to make deeper blacks.

Thanks again

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi dkspratt,

Black stretch changes the gamma curve at the dark end of the scale - For me this reduces gray scale accuracy, & I don't use it. I agree about the contrast setting, & never use it above 24.

As for raising the CRT platform, I tried it, & for me, the increase in geometric distortion of line curvature between convergence map points was too large, & had to return to original position. I am playing around with other methods of overscan reduction though, & will report back when i'm happy (lens mods & re-positioning of guns). I also think lens flare could be better & am working on reducing this. Be very carefull with the mirror, as not only can it be scratched easily, but most chemicals over time will have a oxidising effect on the metalic deposition layer.

Have fun!

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...


hi guys,

i bow before your knowledge on this beast. i bought one from these fabulous reviews and have nothing but bother with it. I didnt want to trash this thread so have started a new one. if any of you who know this set well would be willing to give ahand it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance

Link to post
Share on other sites
If you own the service manual and need advice on greyscale calibration, please send me a personal message/email. . I'll help as much as possible.

Hi CybrSwami,

which model do you have and what problems are you experiencing?

Apollox

Matt

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Yes the service menu does allow complete control of colour (grey scale).

There are also sub adjustments for the Normal and Warm presets. (Cool is the primary setting)

Colour on the Hitachi as delivered is disgusting, and I have no idea what Hitachi was thinking when they came up with the factory settings.

Fix the colour, disable edge enhancement in the service menu, do a 117 point manual convergence, and the Hitachi is transformed into a fine performer.

If you want to get really serious, and do a full hot up, the 57” Hitachi can produce a better picture then a 60” Plasma.

Unfortunately, getting the grey scale spot on is EXTREMELY difficult, even with the aid of test instruments and a reference monitor. It’s more of an art then a science.

Nothing you can do in the user menu will be useful in correcting the colour problems.

You can at least make an improvement by eye, if you know what you are doing, but you will never get it right, as there are just to many variables.

Link to post
Share on other sites


Hi everyone,

Thanks for your prompt reply Owen, but I'm already familiar with the greyscale process, but I was after help on color saturation and hue, particularly those involving the color decoder. Even after greyscale calibration, there is still 'red push' on the Hitachi and I think items between 380 and 395 in the service menu alter it, but I'm not sure. Does anyone know?

Also, is anyone able to post a "how to guide" for OVERSCAN and GEOMETRY and maybe any other FIXES for the C47/C57wd-5000. I have done the manual convergence, greyscale, edge enhancement, black lining of interior etc...but still want to improve it. There are also several new people on this board I'm sure would like a write up of this model because the net doesn't seem to have much other than the posts from Owen.

Dave.

Yes the service menu does allow complete control of colour (grey scale).

There are also sub adjustments for the Normal and Warm presets. (Cool is the primary setting)

Colour on the Hitachi as delivered is disgusting, and I have no idea what Hitachi was thinking when they came up with the factory settings.

Fix the colour, disable edge enhancement in the service menu, do a 117 point manual convergence, and the Hitachi is transformed into a fine performer.

If you want to get really serious, and do a full hot up, the 57” Hitachi can produce a better picture then a 60” Plasma.

Unfortunately, getting the grey scale spot on is EXTREMELY difficult, even with the aid of test instruments and a reference monitor. It’s more of an art then a science.

Nothing you can do in the user menu will be useful in correcting the colour problems.

You can at least make an improvement by eye, if you know what you are doing, but you will never get it right, as there are just to many variables.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Colour saturation is fully adjustable in the user menu. I have colour set to -12

Hue is specific to NTSC video, and is not relevant to PAL or HD video.

When you get the grey scale stop on, the red push will fix its self.

I did say it was not easy.:blink:

Just tunning down the red does NOT fix the problem.

I checked item 375 to 395, and they have no affect on colour in HD mode.

I have colour nailed on my set anyway, and have no red push.

Colour decoder adjustment is not documented in the service manual, and as fare as I know they are only relevant to NTSC video anyway.

Vertical overscan can be adjusted out in the service menu, but horizontal overscan can never be adjusted out, even with the CRT’s moved closer to the mirror. You need a custom resolution form a HTPC to eliminate it. I am using 1712x1080.

Geometry can be adjusted with the provided geometry adjustments, and also with the convergence system for perfect alignment.

The Hitachi 117 point convergence system is extremely powerful, and allows near perfect geometry

You can get geometric errors down to under 2mm over the entire 57” screen, which is very impressive.

Much smaller direct view CRT’s, and even digital RPTV’s cant manage that.

What did you do to disable edge enhancement?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Which section of the service manual is overscan and geometry adjustments. I've looked through and have noticed that vertical size and horizontal size adjust overscan, is this correct? How do you adjust geometrical errors with the convergence system. Is that by adjusting the green?

Colour saturation is fully adjustable in the user menu. I have colour set to -12

Hue is specific to NTSC video, and is not relevant to PAL or HD video.

When you get the grey scale stop on, the red push will fix its self.

I did say it was not easy.:blink:

Just tunning down the red does NOT fix the problem.

I checked item 375 to 395, and they have no affect on colour in HD mode.

I have colour nailed on my set anyway, and have no red push.

Colour decoder adjustment is not documented in the service manual, and as fare as I know they are only relevant to NTSC video anyway.

Vertical overscan can be adjusted out in the service menu, but horizontal overscan can never be adjusted out, even with the CRT’s moved closer to the mirror. You need a custom resolution form a HTPC to eliminate it. I am using 1712x1080.

Geometry can be adjusted with the provided geometry adjustments, and also with the convergence system for perfect alignment.

The Hitachi 117 point convergence system is extremely powerful, and allows near perfect geometry

You can get geometric errors down to under 2mm over the entire 57” screen, which is very impressive.

Much smaller direct view CRT’s, and even digital RPTV’s cant manage that.

What did you do to disable edge enhancement?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Look at menu items for “ Parabola Modification” and “Side Pine Symmetry Modification”.

Fine tune with the convergence system, or do everything with convergence adjustment alone.

Yes you move the green to adjust geometry.

Size adjustments are for overscan, but if you go to far with horizontal adjustment it will get to a point where you cant correct geometric errors.

Good luck mate.

Link to post
Share on other sites


"What did you do to disable edge enhancement?"

To remove edge enhancement, I changed Apacon_Peak_Freaq to 00, for PAL, Component and HD. I also made sure VDM is turned off in the user menu.

I've attempted the overscan adjustments and things are looking better, although I was a little frustrated that the convergence needs to be re-done. Before hand whilst using the DVE disc, I noticed that text was cut off in certain menus and now after overscan adjustments I can see it completely.

So when you mention that horizontal adjustments can impede fixing geometry correctly, is that for the entire screen or just geometrical errors on the right and left edges?

Colour decoder adjustment is not documented in the service manual, and as fare as I know they are only relevant to NTSC video anyway

Oh, I wasn't aware of that, thanks for clearing that up. I think I was confused with this issue because I'm using an NTSC video essentials disc! When I ordered it, I was sure it was a PAL version. But I must say, that the colors are gorgeous after greyscale calibration!

Thanks for your help.

Dave.

Colour saturation is fully adjustable in the user menu. I have colour set to -12

Hue is specific to NTSC video, and is not relevant to PAL or HD video.

When you get the grey scale stop on, the red push will fix its self.

I did say it was not easy.:blink:

Just tunning down the red does NOT fix the problem.

I checked item 375 to 395, and they have no affect on colour in HD mode.

I have colour nailed on my set anyway, and have no red push.

Colour decoder adjustment is not documented in the service manual, and as fare as I know they are only relevant to NTSC video anyway.

Vertical overscan can be adjusted out in the service menu, but horizontal overscan can never be adjusted out, even with the CRT’s moved closer to the mirror. You need a custom resolution form a HTPC to eliminate it. I am using 1712x1080.

Geometry can be adjusted with the provided geometry adjustments, and also with the convergence system for perfect alignment.

The Hitachi 117 point convergence system is extremely powerful, and allows near perfect geometry

You can get geometric errors down to under 2mm over the entire 57” screen, which is very impressive.

Much smaller direct view CRT’s, and even digital RPTV’s cant manage that.

What did you do to disable edge enhancement?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have contacts with an ISF trained technician in Melbourne, Australia. I read on the internet that there is one in Victoria called avicalaustralia and its run by Aaron Rigg, but he emailed me back saying he doesn't calibrate Rear Projection models. I also contacted Hitachi and some TV (not ISF) service technicians and they all refused to help with this matter, saying they don't do it. I have tried to adjust the greyscale by "eyeballing" it and have not been very successful. I first tried what Owen said, reducing rdrive to between 10-20 and increasing rcut to compensate but there is still heavy reds in the 90ire and 30ire. So, reducing the rcut helped a bit. I'm really frustrated that in MELBOURNE, Australia I can't find ONE person to calibrate greyscale! Is it too much to ask, even when I'm willing to pay for their services. I hate the yellowish and strong reds on this tv. I've complained to Hitachi but they won't listen.

Any help on this matter will be appreciated.

Kelly.

"What did you do to disable edge enhancement?"

To remove edge enhancement, I changed Apacon_Peak_Freaq to 00, for PAL, Component and HD. I also made sure VDM is turned off in the user menu.

I've attempted the overscan adjustments and things are looking better, although I was a little frustrated that the convergence needs to be re-done. Before hand whilst using the DVE disc, I noticed that text was cut off in certain menus and now after overscan adjustments I can see it completely.

So when you mention that horizontal adjustments can impede fixing geometry correctly, is that for the entire screen or just geometrical errors on the right and left edges?

Colour decoder adjustment is not documented in the service manual, and as fare as I know they are only relevant to NTSC video anyway

Oh, I wasn't aware of that, thanks for clearing that up. I think I was confused with this issue because I'm using an NTSC video essentials disc! When I ordered it, I was sure it was a PAL version. But I must say, that the colors are gorgeous after greyscale calibration!

Thanks for your help.

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites
"What did you do to disable edge enhancement?"

To remove edge enhancement, I changed Apacon_Peak_Freaq to 00, for PAL, Component and HD. I also made sure VDM is turned off in the user menu.

Thats the way to do it.

I've attempted the overscan adjustments and things are looking better, although I was a little frustrated that the convergence needs to be re-done. Before hand whilst using the DVE disc, I noticed that text was cut off in certain menus and now after overscan adjustments I can see it completely.

So when you mention that horizontal adjustments can impede fixing geometry correctly, is that for the entire screen or just geometrical errors on the right and left edges?

From memory, the edges of the screen are affected the most.

I was unable to remove horizontal overscan in the service menu, so I moved that CRT’s closer to the mirror.

That fixed the overscan and improved picture sharpness, but that through the geometry and convergence a long way out.

However it was correctable using the 117 point convergence system.

Remember that each video mode has it’s own set of adjustments, so if you use an NTSC copy of the DVE DVD, your PAL settings will still be out.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Thats the way to do it.

From memory, the edges of the screen are affected the most.

I was unable to remove horizontal overscan in the service menu, so I moved that CRT’s closer to the mirror.

That fixed the overscan and improved picture sharpness, but that through the geometry and convergence a long way out.

However it was correctable using the 117 point convergence system.

Remember that each video mode has it’s own set of adjustments, so if you use an NTSC copy of the DVE DVD, your PAL settings will still be out.

Hi Owen and everyone....I've been reading all your posts now since probably this

time last year when I just happened to get an excellent deal on the Hitachi C57wd5000 ($3k with 5 year extended etc...) Anyway...I've just, as of last week, bought my own service manual, and have switched off the items 147-148-149-150 for the EE that you've all spoken about, but I have not really noticed a huge diff, though I believe the picture is better. The manual settings with brightness, contrast have all been set to what most of you have advised. One question I do have, is there only one menu that appears and I just scroll down to the correct number setting?

Also while I'm here, I'd like to give a big thank you to all of you that have contributed to this forum, in particular Owen. I must admit that when I got my "beast" home and switched it on, I was pretty disappointed withthe colour and settings and thought that I'd made a big mistake. The first thing I did was get on the internet and googld the product and found you guys.....What a blessing!!!!! I know have an average picture to your standards, but know that It could be a lot better, but don't have the balls and most probably the understanding to perform the convergence etc.... though I have pulled the front panel off one night just to see. I even went as far as ringing a pretty decent TV - Stereo repairer that is a genuine Sony, Hitchi, everything else repairer and service, and quoted word for word what I wanted done...Convergence, grayscale, with an analyzer, and was flatly refused. He ended up asking if I'd been on the internet, which I responded with a big "Hell yeah" and was then advised that you guys were full of it...This caused a massive argument and I accused him of being a backyard repairer!!!! :blink:

Anyway, does anyone know of a "professional" lot that provides the service some of us lack, but in Melbourne? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Ps: Is there a huge difference between SD Set top boxes and HD? Any suggestions on a HD box?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Owen and everyone....I've been reading all your posts now since probably this

time last year when I just happened to get an excellent deal on the Hitachi C57wd5000 ($3k with 5 year extended etc...) Anyway...I've just, as of last week, bought my own service manual, and have switched off the items 147-148-149-150 for the EE that you've all spoken about, but I have not really noticed a huge diff, though I believe the picture is better. The manual settings with brightness, contrast have all been set to what most of you have advised. One question I do have, is there only one menu that appears and I just scroll down to the correct number setting?

Also while I'm here, I'd like to give a big thank you to all of you that have contributed to this forum, in particular Owen. I must admit that when I got my "beast" home and switched it on, I was pretty disappointed withthe colour and settings and thought that I'd made a big mistake. The first thing I did was get on the internet and googld the product and found you guys.....What a blessing!!!!! I know have an average picture to your standards, but know that It could be a lot better, but don't have the balls and most probably the understanding to perform the convergence etc.... though I have pulled the front panel off one night just to see. I even went as far as ringing a pretty decent TV - Stereo repairer that is a genuine Sony, Hitchi, everything else repairer and service, and quoted word for word what I wanted done...Convergence, grayscale, with an analyzer, and was flatly refused. He ended up asking if I'd been on the internet, which I responded with a big "Hell yeah" and was then advised that you guys were full of it...This caused a massive argument and I accused him of being a backyard repairer!!!! :blink:

Anyway, does anyone know of a "professional" lot that provides the service some of us lack, but in Melbourne? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Ps: Is there a huge difference between SD Set top boxes and HD? Any suggestions on a HD box?

Hi Everyone. I would like to concur with Jaime and thank everyone for their contributions. I am in a similar situation to Jaime in having purchased a C47WD5000 about 12 months ago and receiving my service manual the other week. However, I haven't got around to doing any tweeking yet.

Owen, in a previous post you indictaed that you might consolidate all the suggested settings into a concise guide and was wondering if you have had time to do this yet? Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jaime,

Thanks for the kind words mate.

Contrast and Brightness settings could vary significantly depending on viewing environment, and will change for night and day viewing. so don’t pay much attention to what others are using.

The main thing is to not have the contrast set any higher then needed.

There in only one level in the service menu, with about 600 numbered settings, most of which are not documented in the manual.

Don’t be scared to do the manual convergence.

It’s not that difficult, and is really required to get a good HD picture.

Using an external test patten form a PC makes life easier, but the internal grid pattern is adequate, and more then good enough for setting up the PAL SD convergence.

There is no need to adjust the Green gun unless you want to correct for a geometric error, but again, don’t be scared to adjust green if the geometry needs work.

Just remember not to use the “Magic Focus” button ever again.

To adjust the 1080 HD convergence, you need a 1080i source connected.

Unfortunately, getting the grey scale right is near impossible by eye, although you can improving things if you have a reference monitor to compare with.

As long as you write down the original settings, you can always go back without problems.

Newby,

Unfortunately my Hitachi is set up so differently to standard, that none of my settings would be relevant to you or anyone else on this planet. :blink:

For best performance you will need to do lens and electrostatic focus, adjust overscan (as much as possible), geometry and convergence, and of cause gray scale.

After that we move on to modifications that include lens stips, blacking out the interior of the cabinet, and if you are really serious, reportioning the CRT’s to reduce overscan and give the sharpest image.

Good luck to you both, and if you have a specific question, you can ask here.

Cop Ya Latter,

Owen

Link to post
Share on other sites
Jaime,

Thanks for the kind words mate.

Contrast and Brightness settings could vary significantly depending on viewing environment, and will change for night and day viewing. so don’t pay much attention to what others are using.

The main thing is to not have the contrast set any higher then needed.

There in only one level in the service menu, with about 600 numbered settings, most of which are not documented in the manual.

Don’t be scared to do the manual convergence.

It’s not that difficult, and is really required to get a good HD picture.

Using an external test patten form a PC makes life easier, but the internal grid pattern is adequate, and more then good enough for setting up the PAL SD convergence.

There is no need to adjust the Green gun unless you want to correct for a geometric error, but again, don’t be scared to adjust green if the geometry needs work.

Just remember not to use the “Magic Focus” button ever again.

To adjust the 1080 HD convergence, you need a 1080i source connected.

Unfortunately, getting the grey scale right is near impossible by eye, although you can improving things if you have a reference monitor to compare with.

As long as you write down the original settings, you can always go back without problems.

Newby,

Unfortunately my Hitachi is set up so differently to standard, that none of my settings would be relevant to you or anyone else on this planet. :blink:

For best performance you will need to do lens and electrostatic focus, adjust overscan (as much as possible), geometry and convergence, and of cause gray scale.

After that we move on to modifications that include lens stips, blacking out the interior of the cabinet, and if you are really serious, reportioning the CRT’s to reduce overscan and give the sharpest image.

Good luck to you both, and if you have a specific question, you can ask here.

Cop Ya Latter,

Owen

Thanks I will have a go at it one of these days I have some hours to myself. I'll switch all phones off and not answer to anyone.

Do you have a contact for soeme one in Melbourne that does these kinds of things for a living?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.





×
×
  • Create New...