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47 minutes ago, Eggcup The Daft said:

Your 5.1 is really around the Rega 3 in standard, so I'd expect the RP6 to be an upgrade. I just don't know how much of one, and you'll need proper placing and setup to get the advantage. Do you have a good wall shelf or support for the ProJect already?

 

No but I'll get a wall mount. I have the current one on a shelf with cd and amp.

 

42 minutes ago, Rocketfrogs said:

Well the RP6 is '4' better than the RP2......

Well I should be ok. My first table was a rp2 and it was ok. Geez I'm thinking about getting my deposit back now

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1 minute ago, blakey72 said:

I might give up the whole idea if the rp6 isn't a good improvement on the rpm. I thought it was a decent deal with the black on it.

 

IMO it is a side grade at best.

I would be getting the deposit back and looking for something really nice second hand

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52 minutes ago, rantan said:

 

IMO it is a side grade at best.

I would be getting the deposit back and looking for something really nice second hand

I thought the rpm5.1 was on par with a P3?

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On 03/07/2017 at 3:51 PM, blakey72 said:

Are there any tables just as good for the same price or lower?

 

Kuzma Stabi S and Rega RP8 are both better. (As a former owner of a  Michell Orbe/SME IV, and current  owner of a Kuzma Stabi S and Rega RP8.)

 

Edited by rossb
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Like any of the suspended decks you'll probably want someone who knows what they're doing to help set one up properly, but you'll love it. They're magic to listen to, reliable and always upgradable to a higher standard.

Also whatever you spend to get one you'll typically get back if you sell it as long as you don't go too crazy on new upgrades.

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On 04/07/2017 at 8:36 PM, Eggcup The Daft said:

Your 5.1 is really around the Rega 3 in standard, so I'd expect the RP6 to be an upgrade. I just don't know how much of one, and you'll need proper placing and setup to get the advantage. Do you have a good wall shelf or support for the ProJect already?

 

 

Well the difference between a 3 and a 6 (and it's got more complicated as they are bewteen generations, so the new Planar 3 is a lor different to a RP3)...is the RP6 has the TT-PSU (power supply, which can be purchased seperately) is single layer glass vs dual in the platter, a 330 arm vs a 303 and the hub is polycarb in the Rp3 and aluminum/poly carb in the RP6....so not a huge amount of difference at present.

 

@blakey72 Gut feel says a Planar 6 will be released within weeks/months - it will be a major overhaul and the included TT-PSU has also been upgraded (now speed adjustable). If it was me, I'd get that deposit back and wait for the new Planar - if the difference is the same as RP3 vs Planar 3 then it's worth waiting for!!!

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The RB300 arms are hard to beat, you'll want to look at the circus bearing and the new inner platter and sub chassis to go in it when funds allow, makes it a completely different deck :). Enjoy it!

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On 09/07/2017 at 1:10 PM, blakey72 said:

Decided on something totally different. A done up Linn Sondek LP12. Rega tonearm (I think) and 2m bronze.

 

While an LP12 is a smart choice AFAIAC ... what is the level of "done up-ness" of your LP12?  (There's quite a spectrum!  :D ).

 

Andy

 

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7 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

While an LP12 is a smart choice AFAIAC ... what is the level of "done up-ness" of your LP12?  (There's quite a spectrum!  :D ).

 

Andy

 

LP12
Circa 1980-90
New linn springs grommets and bolts
Fluted plinth 
Frosted lid
Fully balanced and set up using full Linn alignment tools including Linn lp12 jig, Linn kinky and linn vertical bolt alignment tool.
 
Done by a Linn specialist.
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LP12 Circa 1980-90 New linn springs grommets and bolts Fluted plinth  Frosted lid Fully balanced and set up using full Linn alignment tools including Linn lp12 jig, Linn kinky and linn vertical bolt alignment tool.   Done by a Linn specialist.

Knowing the s/n of the deck would be my first question...
At least you would know the year of manufacture and whether the plinth had corner braces or not.


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1 minute ago, blakey72 said:
Done by a Linn specialist.
 

 

Andrew Coles at HiFi Restorations?

 

1 minute ago, blakey72 said:
LP12
Circa 1980-90
New linn springs grommets and bolts
Fluted plinth 
Frosted lid
Fully balanced and set up using full Linn alignment tools including Linn lp12 jig, Linn kinky and linn vertical bolt alignment tool.

 

OK, here's a suggested list of improvements which will all increase SQ (they're not all Linn upgrades, btw! ;) ):

  • Cirkus bearing (if you don't have it already).
  • Edmund Chan inner platter (in preference to the Linn inner platter)
  • Tranquility mag-lev kit (fits under the inner platter and around the bearing housing - and reduces the weight of the bearing stub on the thrust plate at the bottom of the bearing housing.  This lowers the noise floor.).
  • Tiger Paw's 'Khan' or, better, the 'Carmen' top-plate.
  • A replacement for the (simply dreadful!!) pressed-steel subchassis.  You need one which locks the armboard to the subchassis (instead of the setup you have, which uses 3 pissy little screws) - there are several options including: the Linn Kore and Keel (this is $6K!!) and one which you can read about on the Linn Forum - made by John somebody ("Analogue Innovations"?).
  • Replace your Rega arm with a 9.5" Univector from SNA's own @lovetube.
  • A better PS - I'm assuming (as you didn't mention anything) you have a Valhalla ... which only gives you 33rpm?

You have several options - increasing in cost:

  1. Mose/Hercules.
  2. Edmund Chan's DC motor kit.
  3. Steve Tuckett's AC motor speed controller - the 'Control Freak' ... or the more expensive 'Turntable Control Instrument' (TCI).  Neither of these are out yet ... I've been using a prototype for the last 18 months.

Note: I have not included the Linn Lingo or Radikal!!  :D  (The former because it's no better than the Mose/Hercules, IMO - and the latter because I believe it is not good vfm, compared to either Edmund Chan's DC motor kit or Steve's 'Number9' AC motor controller.

 

Good luck, Blake.  :thumb:  An LP12 can be a great-sounding TT

 

Andy

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14 minutes ago, andyr said:

 

Andrew Coles at HiFi Restorations?

 

 

OK, here's a suggested list of improvements which will all increase SQ (they're not all Linn upgrades, btw! ;) ):

  • Cirkus bearing (if you don't have it already).
  • Edmund Chan inner platter (in preference to the Linn inner platter)
  • Tranquility mag-lev kit (fits under the inner platter and around the bearing housing - and reduces the weight of the bearing stub on the thrust plate at the bottom of the bearing housing.  This lowers the noise floor.).
  • Tiger Paw's 'Khan' or, better, the 'Carmen' top-plate.
  • A replacement for the (simply dreadful!!) pressed-steel subchassis.  You need one which locks the armboard to the subchassis (instead of the setup you have, which uses 3 pissy little screws) - there are several options including: the Linn Kore and Keel (this is $6K!!) and one which you can read about on the Linn Forum - made by John somebody ("Analogue Innovations"?).
  • Replace your Rega arm with a 9.5" Univector from SNA's own @lovetube.
  • A better PS - I'm assuming (as you didn't mention anything) you have a Valhalla ... which only gives you 33rpm?

You have several options - increasing in cost:

  1. Mose/Hercules.
  2. Edmund Chan's DC motor kit.
  3. Steve Tuckett's AC motor speed controller - the 'Control Freak' ... or the more expensive 'Turntable Control Instrument' (TCI).  Neither of these are out yet ... I've been using a prototype for the last 18 months.

Note: I have not included the Linn Lingo or Radikal!!  :D  (The former because it's no better than the Mose/Hercules, IMO - and the latter because I believe it is not good vfm, compared to either Edmund Chan's DC motor kit or Steve's 'Number9' AC motor controller.

 

Good luck, Blake.  :thumb:  An LP12 can be a great-sounding TT

 

Andy

Thanks Andy, that's great advice. I'll be doing it slowly I think :)

 

Edited by blakey72
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10 minutes ago, blakey72 said:

Wasn't allowed :(

 

Don't worry mate. A big upgrade is a second Hand Ittok Arm over the RB300. As long as its in good nik, a good start. Should'nt cost much either.

Set up well, any LP12 will be a Good sounding table.

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