Jump to content

Advice on Remote Volume Control.


Recommended Posts

@Addicted to music  Nice topology in that Sanders Pre.

After looking at most PGA2310/2311 units on the evil one, I have come to the conclusion that the design teams brainstorming session went something like this ...

Idea #1.   Hey, lets save a motza and stuff the innards into the smallest chassis we can find.

Idea #2.   Hey lets place this whopping big transformer in the center of the chassis, that way everything will get a spray of EMI.

Idea #3.    Hey, speaking of EMI, how bout we twist all the sensitive cables around the A.C. wires.   Save more on cable ties, in fact, let's not use any.

Idea #4.    Hey, I bet I can think of the most stupid name to call this so we can laugh every time we think of the stupid people who get embarrassed when a party guest points it out to everyone and sundry.

 

After a few hours spent looking, this appears to be relatively OK....

Cheap and cheerful pre....        Power supply looks like it needs modding.

 

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

 

 

Edited by circlework
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



@circlework

 

what have you got got to loose apart from $140AU.   

 

There's huge advantages of using one of these chips.  

 

The obvious is that there is no mechanical wear and tear.  The consistency of SQ for life.  I hate when I built 2 identical preamps 9mths apart and the 2nd blows the 1st out of the water in SQ, replacing the pot brings both up to speed in SQ.

The other is almost dead accuracy between channels.  You will never get that even if you tried a Alps Rk50 or Gold plated contact DACT.  The channel balance is perfect at all volumes.  And you will never get that on any Alps with a typical carbon/plastic wiper.

 

i would never pay full price for that Sanders Pre.  However I've put that up against some tubes and it's up there with the best.  It wont best it but we i had that up there with the AVM  Ovation 8.2 Preamp.  It's not far of from that.  Apart from replacing the PSU supply caps with Panasonic TP,   There isn't much there to do.  The other tubes I had it up against was more of a side step than anything else.

 

jeff Rawland also uses a CS3310 in his preamps.

Edited by Addicted to music
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Addicted to music said:

what have you got got to loose apart from $140AU.

 

Although, there are some that think altering the volume level in the digital domain is a no no, I am going to approach this with an open mind (not like me at all) and take your advice ... you're right ... it's only $175 aud delivered.

Let's see what my ears think.   I don't really care too much about the money, I just don't want to send my system backwards from where it is at the moment, it has taken too long to get there.

 

A Great Big Thankyou to all that have replied.

 

I'll let the forum know the results.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, circlework said:

 

Although, there are some that think altering the volume level in the digital domain is a no no, I am going to approach this with an open mind (not like me at all) and take your advice ... you're right

 

 

 

Those chips do not attenuate in the digital domain like the feature on DAC chips using bit reduction.

its digitally controlled, but it does it in the analog domain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pga2310.pdf

 

Heres a link to the data sheet for the PGA 2310.  

 

Its on page 7 that gives you a discription on the internal workings.  Note the CS3310 is almost similar but has a different supply voltage.  

 

http://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/MUSES72320_E.pdf

 

The Muses72320 is totally a different beast.  

IMG_1418.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

G'day,

 

If your source is digital then you could consider adding a media box of some sort as a remote volume control via DLNA. This opens up the playing field to lots of things you may not already be considering. I added an Apple TV 3 in the loop as a quick and dirty solution to this but there are much more efficient ways than adding an Apple TV 3 and a DAC on top to achieve what you want to do. You can find a media box with the appropriate outputs, or otherwise if not a DAC with multiple outputs.

 

This resolves volume control for digital sources for me and if I'm using an analogue source well there's not much getting around using my feet anyway to change sides on a record or tape, so it doesn't bother me.  That said, If you want something that controls your amp in general from line of sight then you will need a box such as the above you've already noted that goes in between your amp and your source to achieve that, or you're going to have to build some sort of motorised or electronic volume control into your amp.

 

The value of DLNA on the other hand is that it works beyond line of sight as its happening over WIFI, but only really for digital sources. It also opens your possibilities to a range of DLNA specific remotes (such as a Logitech Harmony) or control with your phone/computer/tablet device.

I find if I'm just walking around the house I can now flip the switch on my amp, and put on Spotify and let it do its thing from the other side of the house. Once you go DLNA you can also set up speakers in different rooms using DLNA extenders such as an Airport express also which can work as a pre-dac via optical if you want more quality.


 

Edited by Roumelio.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

@Addicted to music  and all other responders ... you know who you are ....

 

I finally decided on a PGA2311 based cheap and cheerful volume controller as a trial platform, with the intention of starting at the cheap end and increasing the amount spent until I either cried 'uncle', or achieved the desired result.

The controller I purchased was the unit mentioned in one of my previous posts ... Cheap and Cheerful Vol Control.

The reason I chose that particular unit is that it looked the neatest topology wise.   Having heard some negative hype from the totally passive crowd regarding degradation of sound quality, I connected the unit with the preconception that it would be a failure.

Once connected and running, it confirmed the old adage that you can't judge a book by its cover.

The outcome is that once running, I can't actually tell (sound wise) that it is in the system, apart from being able to vary the volume.   It took a little while to sort out the starting priority, which turned out that it be the last to boot up, but this has no impact on my system, as there are no pops or clicks when its channel relays cut in.

In conclusion, it has found a home, at least for now.    The big negative is that I'm sure I've gained at least 1Kg by not getting up and down to change the volume!

 

Again, many thanks to those that responded.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...
To Top