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Sceeta

Rega Tonearm wiring configuration

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Hi all,

Just swapping out the cart on my Rega P25 and as the rca cables are not marked as L and R or color coded I though I would meter out the cables and mark them. This is where the problem starts. The cart indicates that Red and Green are the Right channel pair and White and Blue are the Left channel pair which I assume is an industry standard. When I meter out the the cables they don't seem to match. The red wire at the cartridge end goes to the centre pin of one lead with 1.2 ohms resistance, The green wire goes to the outer of the opposite rca (I assume the outer is the negative) with a resistance of 1.2 ohms. The white wire goes to the centre pin of the other rca with 1.2 ohms resistance and the blue wire goes to the opposite outer with 1.2 ohms resistance. Not sure if those resistances are high or not but it would appear as though the left and right channels are not matched to the same rca connector. Obviously I can change them on the cart when i connect it up but I guess my main question is, is this the way it is supposed to be or would i be better to swap the green and blue so that the channels are paired on the on rca? 

Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Matt.

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36 minutes ago, Sceeta said:

Hi all,

Just swapping out the cart on my Rega P25 and as the rca cables are not marked as L and R or color coded I though I would meter out the cables and mark them. This is where the problem starts. The cart indicates that Red and Green are the Right channel pair and White and Blue are the Left channel pair which I assume is an industry standard. When I meter out the the cables they don't seem to match. The red wire at the cartridge end goes to the centre pin of one lead with 1.2 ohms resistance, The green wire goes to the outer of the opposite rca (I assume the outer is the negative) with a resistance of 1.2 ohms. The white wire goes to the centre pin of the other rca with 1.2 ohms resistance and the blue wire goes to the opposite outer with 1.2 ohms resistance. Not sure if those resistances are high or not but it would appear as though the left and right channels are not matched to the same rca connector. Obviously I can change them on the cart when i connect it up but I guess my main question is, is this the way it is supposed to be or would i be better to swap the green and blue so that the channels are paired on the on rca? 

Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Matt.

 

Hi Matt.

look like your wiring have been mixed up some how . just use the blue /red for right ch and the green/ white for left ch.

Duc

Edited by lovetube
typo

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I'd change the RCAs to match the cart outputs.

shellconnect.gif

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So if I just match red/blue and white/green that should correct the issue shouldn't it? This is obviously a stuff up from Rega's factory as I am the 2nd owner of this TT and all the wiring is factory fitted. The previous owner hasn't altered anything.

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4 minutes ago, Sceeta said:

So if I just match red/blue and white/green that should correct the issue shouldn't it? This is obviously a stuff up from Rega's factory as I am the 2nd owner of this TT and all the wiring is factory fitted. The previous owner hasn't altered anything.

 

do as i said above. you can't correct the RCA end on this cable . just swap at the cartridge end.

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18 minutes ago, lovetube said:

 

Hi Matt.

look like your wiring have been mixed up some how . just use the green /red for right ch and the blue / white for left ch.

Duc

No worries Duc. You just confused me a bit because your suggestion above is matching the same connections and not swapping them but I thought that is what you meant. Red/Blue Right channel, White/Green Left Channel at cartridge end. Cheers.

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1 minute ago, Sceeta said:

No worries Duc. You just confused me a bit because your suggestion above is matching the same connections and not swapping them but I thought that is what you meant. Red/Blue Right channel, White/Green Left Channel at cartridge end. Cheers.

 

sorry my typo . what i wrote is a standard how they should be wired . your case is just wrap the green and the blue at the cartridge end and all will be fix .

Duc

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No worries, thanks for the advice, cheers Matt.

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Just an update on this one. I contacted Synergy Audio in Vic just to see if I could find out if this may have been done for a reason. Since you can't contact Rega directly I went to them as they are the Victorian authorised Rega distributor. They were very prompt in getting back to me and had already contacted Rega with the issue. Rega have asked for some photos, I guess to see if it has been altered, which I have supplied today so I guess it will be sometime next week now before I get an answer. Watch this space.

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So after 3 weeks of going back and forth, Rega weren't particularly prompt in getting back to Synergy but at least Synergy kept me informed, it turns out that all Rega tonearms have a soldered termination block in the base of the arm so that is where the connection error must be. I was of the belief that these arms as well as the RB900 had one piece cables but this has definitely been confirmed by Rega that it is not the case. I have now ordered an incognito silver cardas wiring kit and will just give it a full rewire with one piece cables. That will be the next challenge. Drawing as supplied by Rega.

59508a545a4a0_RegaTonearmWiring.gif.40f89ddc3a56068731b768368495f20d.gif 

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For anyone who is interested, I got an incognito silver cardas rewire kit and finally got around to rewiring the arm. It was a bit of a challenge but only took about an hour to do it. After having done this myself I've gotta say that the factory wiring is less than impressive. I was really happy to be pulling out the factory shite and installing the incognito kit. The difference to the sound quality that the mod made was incredible. I was very sceptical beforehand but it was a major improvement. The bass is no longer muddy and the mids and highs are fantastic. If you want to improve your Rega arm, I can't recommend this upgrade enough. If anyone wants advice on how to do it I'd be more than happy to share my experience. It is pretty straight forward really. All the best. Oh and here's a pic of the business end.
 

 

20180114_092704.jpg

Edited by Sceeta
added photo

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38 minutes ago, Sceeta said:

After having done this myself I've gotta say that the factory wiring is less than impressive. I was really happy to be pulling out the factory shite and installing the incognito kit. The difference to the sound quality that the mod made was incredible. I was very sceptical beforehand but it was a major improvement. The bass is no longer muddy and the mids and highs are fantastic. 

 

So you're saying that cables do make a difference?  :ohmy:   :cool:

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2 minutes ago, Peter_F said:

So you're saying that cables do make a difference?  :ohmy:   :cool:

Certainly this mod made a difference. I've never gone down the path of changing interconnect cables for some of the over priced ones that are out there but it certainly poses the question. I can't justify the cost of them though to experiment and am happy with what I have got.

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4 hours ago, Sceeta said:

For anyone who is interested, I got an incognito silver cardas rewire kit and finally got around to rewiring the arm. It was a bit of a challenge but only took about an hour to do it. After having done this myself I've gotta say that the factory wiring is less than impressive. I was really happy to be pulling out the factory shite and installing the incognito kit. The difference to the sound quality that the mod made was incredible. I was very sceptical beforehand but it was a major improvement. The bass is no longer muddy and the mids and highs are fantastic. If you want to improve your Rega arm, I can't recommend this upgrade enough. If anyone wants advice on how to do it I'd be more than happy to share my experience. It is pretty straight forward really. All the best. Oh and here's a pic of the business end.
 

 

20180114_092704.jpg

How did you go with the little rubber grommet that apparently gets pulled out and cant be replace?

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How did you go with the little rubber grommet that apparently gets pulled out and cant be replace?
Which ones, there's 3 in there. Two in the bearing end, they were easy enough and there's one at the headshell. The kit comes with a new one but it's a bit loose so when I pushed it in it went right into the arm tube so I ended up using the original one. If you've never seen one apart there are solder joints behind that plug as well as the ones that terminate on the brass plug. As soon as I started pulling wires all those connections just broke off so it's good just to get rid of those solder joints and have a single run of wires from headshell to phono plugs. I think that probably contributes greatly to the signal/sound improvement.

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