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58 minutes ago, genkifd said:

yeh the Purifi kit is pretty damn good. pitty im not and hands on person. Im actually waiting for the reviews on the new Nord Purifi mono amp reviews.

You’re in Victoria, in Melb suburb?   

 

If if you are you can tee up with either myself or even @mwhouston    for hands on.....

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Guest Karl Rand
On 20/07/2019 at 9:04 PM, Brucec said:

Anthony Holton in Tasmania has been building some great amplifiers 

Yes but his pre-amplifiers and phono pre-amps appear to come naked without cases.

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Guest Karl Rand
28 minutes ago, MattyW said:

That's a bit rude ?

 

Anyhow, this has me curious so I’m going to arrange a visit as Holton Precision Audio is a 45 min drive from my place.

First off I want to hear the phono pre-amp. I have some doubts though about those pale green (contact?) points if thats what they are. 

MG_1570_large.JPG

MG_1575_large.JPG

 

Edited by Karl Rand
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10 minutes ago, Karl Rand said:

 

Anyhow, this has me curious so I’m going to arrange a visit as Holton Precision Audio is a 45 min drive from my place.

First off I want to hear the phono pre-amp. I have some doubts though about those pale green (contact?) points if thats what they are. 

MG_1570_large.JPG

MG_1575_large.JPG

 

 

 

Hi Guys the boards shown are the DIY versions, I will be producing some commercial versions in the next couple of months all cased up ready to go.

The first batch of these have been quite popular, sell quite a number of each design already. Nick Hulgich (Hulgich Audio) and myself will be at the Melbourne Audio Club meeting this Wednesday night, we will be doing a presentation with our gear and I will have the new Gain Block One preamp controlling the sound system.

So those of you that are in Melbourne and can come along I hope to see you there.

 

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Karl Rand said:

 

Anyhow, this has me curious so I’m going to arrange a visit as Holton Precision Audio is a 45 min drive from my place.

First off I want to hear the phono pre-amp. I have some doubts though about those pale green (contact?) points if thats what they are. 

MG_1570_large.JPG

MG_1575_large.JPG

Those green contact thingy are way better than spade connectors.....

 

Trust me, I’m a gynocologist ?

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9 minutes ago, Aussieamps said:

 

 

 

Hi Guys the boards shown are the DIY versions, I will be producing some commercial versions in the next couple of months all cased up ready to go.

The first batch of these have been quite popular, sell quite a number of each design already. Nick Hulgich (Hulgich Audio) and myself will be at the Melbourne Audio Club meeting this Wednesday night, we will be doing a presentation with our gear and I will have the new Gain Block One preamp controlling the sound system.

So those of you that are in Melbourne and can come along I hope to see you there.

 

 

 

 

Yes going. Should be good. 

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13 minutes ago, Addicted to music said:

No,  but diy for these modules are easy, provided there’s a dedicated cabinet with all the correct cut out and holes..

Has anyone got costing for these modules. I tried to email sales and I couldn’t send the email??? Purifi modules that is. 

Edited by mwhouston
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2 hours ago, mwhouston said:

Has anyone got costing for these modules. I tried to email sales and I couldn’t send the email??? Purifi modules that is. 

I’m not building them ATM,   I have a Magtech ? :thumb:     However I have a very soft spot for Hypex products.   They are awesome!   Wish I could be more help, I just found out here!   

Maybe check on the Hypex website......

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Guest Karl Rand
3 hours ago, Addicted to music said:

Those green contact thingy are way better than spade connectors.....

 

Trust me, I’m a gynocologist ?

But I’m not giving birth to a phono-pre-amp - - as far as I know.

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3 minutes ago, Karl Rand said:

But I’m not giving birth to a phono-pre-amp - - as far as I know.

Those green connectors will “lock” on to the Cable via the screw above, they stay secure.   Stick the wires in and lock and secure them with the screw, that’s it.   You can see that spades are also used here,  in time spades will open up providing a loose contact.  I’ve seen on the stuff I work on they now provide a leaf spring to secure the connection in the centre of the spade in case it goes loose.  But those are hard to find.

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Guest Karl Rand
17 minutes ago, Addicted to music said:

Those green connectors will “lock” on to the Cable via the screw above, they stay secure.   Stick the wires in and lock and secure them with the screw, that’s it.   You can see that spades are also used here,  in time spades will open up providing a loose contact.  I’ve seen on the stuff I work on they now provide a leaf spring to secure the connection in the centre of the spade in case it goes loose.  But those are hard to find.

Call me paranoid if you want but with such contacts, no matter how tightly screwed down, I’m always concerned the portion of bare wire not screwed down is going to oxidise. Revealling this concern to a well known Stereonet reviewer some years ago I was told ‘If that worries you paint the bare wire with nail polish” . I didn’t ask which shade he recommended. 

Edited by Karl Rand
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Just now, Karl Rand said:

Call me paranoid if you want but with such contacts, no matter how tightly screwed down, I’m always concerned the portion of bare wire not screwed down is going to oxidise. Revealling this concern to a well known Stereonet reviewer I was told ‘If that worries you paint the bare wire with nail polish” . I didn’t ask which shade was recommended. 

The green connectors are there just for convenience and tinning any wire before connection into these type of connectors is always a good idea, that way I have never found any issue

using them long term. Otherwise the connectors can be removed and the cables can be soldered directly into the main PCBs, that was actually the original intent with these boards. The Green terminators just make it simple for DIY's.

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Guest Karl Rand

LIke the idea of soldering directly onto PCB’s but given my soldering makes your mad grandmothers knitting look neat I’d be asking Holton to do it for me. 

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24 minutes ago, Karl Rand said:

Call me paranoid if you want but with such contacts, no matter how tightly screwed down, I’m always concerned the portion of bare wire not screwed down is going to oxidise. Revealling this concern to a well known Stereonet reviewer some years ago I was told ‘If that worries you paint the bare wire with nail polish” . I didn’t ask which shade he recommended. 

I’ve never had issues with those screw in types, especially if they come with a spring type washer, the washer will keep it secure forever, some washers even have biting edges to ensure the contact and are non ferrous.  

The spades are the biggest problem here,   I’ve seen these go wild and become a fire issue, but that’s stuff that’s in 30A 3 phase.   I’ve seen purple plasma jump tracks because these spades have come loose and over heated....  now days if you see non ferrous screw in types with a biting washer, that says quality to me.....  in Japanese gear that I work on if a spade is deployed its with a spring on the center and I have never seen the fire hazards issues that use to happen!

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Guest Karl Rand
23 minutes ago, Addicted to music said:

I’ve never had issues with those screw in types, especially if they come with a spring type washer, the washer will keep it secure forever, some washers even have biting edges to ensure the contact and are non ferrous.  

The spades are the biggest problem here,   I’ve seen these go wild and become a fire issue, but that’s stuff that’s in 30A 3 phase.   I’ve seen purple plasma jump tracks because these spades have come loose and over heated....  now days if you see non ferrous screw in types with a biting washer, that says quality to me.....  in Japanese gear that I work on if a spade is deployed its with a spring on the center and I have never seen the fire hazards issues that use to happen!

STOP IT! Your bringing back memories of an Audio Research D 70 MkII power amp I had to turn on from across the room with a long stick.

Output valves turning that awful bluish purple (before they'd even heat up) then exploding - - - - - - - - - three times it was returned for repair with the same volcanic results . Took two solicitors letters to get my money back. Mind you, on the few rare occassions it worked it was one of the most sublimely musical power amps I’ve ever heard. Taught me a lesson I’ve never forgotten. Never buy a second hand valve power amp unless you have suicidal tendencies. 

 

Which leads to another ( off topic -sorry) question. I have a Yamaha A S 300 integrated in my TV room which has a number of screw down internal connections. Should I be concerned? 

shopping.jpeg

as3000sp_interior2.png

Edited by Karl Rand
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32 minutes ago, Karl Rand said:

 

Which leads to another ( off topic -sorry) question. I have a Yamaha A S 300 integrated in my TV room which has a number of screw down internal connections. Should I be concerned? 

shopping.jpeg

as3000sp_interior2.png

“No”. You should not be concern.....

thats quality built......you can see on some they also used copper screws...where are you gonna find that?  

Notice also the power supply filter caps are stud screw types that are always higher current rating than there pin equivalent with the same type rating. 

Edited by Addicted to music
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13 minutes ago, genkifd said:

looking into the Holton 500 amp - looks very interesting. is there any test results?

 

anyone have one of these which pre are you using this this amp?

 

thanks

Hi if you can make it to the melbourne audio club meet tomorrow night you can see and hear the 500 supreme amp, also a new Holton preamp that will be driving it.

 

 

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49 minutes ago, Aussieamps said:

Hi if you can make it to the melbourne audio club meet tomorrow night you can see and hear the 500 supreme amp, also a new Holton preamp that will be driving it.

 

 

Any plans for a road trip to the Sydney Audio Club?

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52 minutes ago, Aussieamps said:

Hi if you can make it to the melbourne audio club meet tomorrow night you can see and hear the 500 supreme amp, also a new Holton preamp that will be driving it.

 

 

Yes I'm intending to go. But I'm wondering a fully balanced preamp would be better? 

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1 hour ago, genkifd said:

Yes I'm intending to go. But I'm wondering a fully balanced preamp would be better? 

The main advantage with a balanced preamp is only for driving long cable runs, otherwise sound quality is the same. In some cases noise performance  can be better with unbalanced connections.

 

 

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