Guest atilsley Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Very room-friendly and wonderful design featuring: - 24mm Euro Birch ply panels, plus uber bracing (2 of 3 shelves shown in pic) - carefully mitred baffle, sides and top to create integrated look and narrow baffle - 10mm cotton deadening plus acoustic foam - LR2 custom high-grade xover from Redefy Audio (Henry) - Beyma world-class TPL150 Air Motion Transducer tweeter and matching horn - Dual custom SB Acoustics 8 inch woofers (modified by Redefy Audio) - slot porting of cabinet to perfectly match woofers and cabinet sizing - dims 1100mm tall by 270mm wide by 420mm deep - quality gold terminals and up-spec cable (TBC) - finish in gloss two-pack poly Anticipated sensitivity around 95dB. A nice project, with great potential. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Original idea was to use AE 12 inch with the Beyma TPL, similar to the Vapour product. The option to use dual 8 inch woofers will give a smoother integration to the horn, while retaining good bass depth. http://www.stereomojo.com/Vapor Arcus Speaker Review/VAPORARCUSSPEAKERREVIEW.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faceman Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 2.5 way, right?Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 On ?29?/?04?/?2017 at 8:06 PM, Faceman said: 2.5 way, right? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Yes, I'll config the xover to limit the lower woofer's upper freq. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weka Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 If you're going 2.5 way then the woofers should be in separate compartments otherwise you'll probably get out-of-phase rear wave midrange radiating out through the low woofer. Plus, separate woofer compartments give you more bass tuning options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 2 hours ago, Weka said: If you're going 2.5 way then the woofers should be in separate compartments otherwise you'll probably get out-of-phase rear wave midrange radiating out through the low woofer. Plus, separate woofer compartments give you more bass tuning options. Thanks, that's good feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hinchliffe Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Probably not a big deal, but did you consider doing the bracing shelves with the ribs running diagonally rather than from the middle of each side? It would have effectively made 4 triangular cutouts instead of 4 squares, which, theoretically at least, would be more rigid... Looks like a great project!!!Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewantsmoore Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 10 hours ago, atilsley said: 2.5 way Putting the woofers in differently tuned enclosures is unlikely to be a good strategy. You want them to have the same low frequency motion - which with differently tuned boxes, and a passive filter.... they won't. 8 hours ago, Wiffle said: It would have effectively made 4 triangular cutouts instead of 4 squares, which, theoretically at least In this situation what you are looking to do, is attach the most unsupported cabinet panel area (ie. the middle of the sides), to as many other cabinet surfaces as possible, so in this case the cross (with the centre of the cross also connected to something - it looks like hes going to have some vertical braces in there) is the best plan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hinchliffe Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 In this situation what you are looking to do, is attach the most unsupported cabinet panel area (ie. the middle of the sides), to as many other cabinet surfaces as possible, so in this case the cross (with the centre of the cross also connected to something - it looks like hes going to have some vertical braces in there) is the best plan. Ok, that makes perfect sense; thanks Dave [emoji106]Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 16 hours ago, Wiffle said: Probably not a big deal, but did you consider doing the bracing shelves with the ribs running diagonally rather than from the middle of each side? It would have effectively made 4 triangular cutouts instead of 4 squares, which, theoretically at least, would be more rigid... Looks like a great project!!! Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk Yes, I consudered this. Chose square patten to ensure no restrictive volume for air glow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Agree with Dave re not building separate bass compartments. Important to have consistency of bass, while still able to make drivers perform at slightly different freq. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewantsmoore Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 10 minutes ago, atilsley said: Agree with Dave re not building separate bass compartments. Important to have consistency of bass, while still able to make drivers perform at slightly different freq. Separate enclosures is ok ...... but separate enclosures tuned differently isn't a good idea ..... unless you would correct the response of one driver so the two drivers maintain the same LF response - but this is impractical with a passive filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Triple mitre join...not easy. Getting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Port shelf added, with rounded edge. "floating" platform added underneath cabinet, edges to be painted flat black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Starting on the felt...boy, this is hard work...about 15mm thick. Rear panel commenced first, showing where triple terminals will be located (off-board xover boxes, with 3-way separate wiring). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sub Sonic Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 @atilsley have you tried used packing tape instead of masking tape? You can stretch it a little when applying it and it helps pull the joints together. Regards, SS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 1 hour ago, Sub Sonic said: @atilsley have you tried used packing tape instead of masking tape? You can stretch it a little when applying it and it helps pull the joints together. Regards, SS Yes...it is beneficial in that way....but doesn't stick as well, especially when dust etc around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faceman Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Even with perfect CNC joints, I still prefer clamps. You can never have enough of them...Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 9 hours ago, Faceman said: Even with perfect CNC joints, I still prefer clamps. You can never have enough of them... Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Agreed...the caveat to that is when you're building mitre joins, where too much pressure simply pully the mitres apart. This is why I build the cabs in stages...using tape to secure the panels. By the time I add braces and poly glue, the unit is rock solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I'm buggered..... This 20mm felt (yes, I said 15mm earlier) is very hard to work with. Bought upgraded knife and blades. All done...phew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThirdDrawerDown Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Maybe an electric carving knife? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atilsley Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Ye Olde Bees Wax tested on one top panel...happy with that. Drivers fitted temporarily on one. Six pairs of Supratek wires made up, with silver ends. Six pairs of gold coated heavy terminals. Xover boxes will have corresponding six pairs of gold terminals, plus gold input terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Orange Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) Where are the speaker terminals from ? They look nice, I may need some for a project I am doing. Edited May 17, 2017 by Black Orange TYPO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lusk Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Looking good, nice drivers the SB acoustics, interested to know what change your planning on doing to the drivers to improve them? extra magnet? more weight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BioBrian Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 95dB from 2 x 88.5dB woofers? Bit of Henry magic going on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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