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mattjtaylor2809

AV/HI Fi Rack Project

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You can use a thing called 'tube connectors' that press-fit/jam into the ends of hollow tubes and then you can screw threaded devices into them - not sure where they're available locally but Blackwoods might still keep them - can easily get them from the US from McMasters-Carr, Apex, etc - maybe even Amazon

 

Or, can use something called 'insert nuts' and use one of the many fancy types of glue to fasten them in place 

 

Cam, you might need to cut a hole in the top shelf and build a 'spider rack' under a separate support for your TT - a separate & isolated platform, if you will  - might get away with one of those 'homemade' Townend sand base supports - quite neat and simple to make - the TNT website has plans if you can't find them here.

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Hi caminperth,

 

Love the industrial look & this was the way I was heading until I saw @Darren69 post & decided to go with the metal pipes as the uprights.

In terms of stability, I think I'll be ok as when we assembled the other day, even without screwing it up, I was really surprised as to how stable it was.

Thanks for sharing

Anyone else want to share their DIY shelves?

Cheers

Matt

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Hi Guys,

 

Well......., it's up & running!!

 

Joiner to fix the top panel to the threaded rods

IMG_3713.thumb.JPG.9e26c74df811a5fc8506780d67239c80.JPG

 

Template to help align the square metal posts

IMG_3715.thumb.JPG.321f28fba9a3b00fdd8081e68e5e6256.JPG

 

Casters (they don't roll that well on carpet)

IMG_3717.thumb.JPG.a21b4aeb4a0410d49507e77890de896f.JPG

 

Finished product, just waiting for the last light coat of oil to dry....can I wait...!!!

IMG_3719.thumb.JPG.20b924f113e949e053f630843ba260b9.JPG

 

Can't wait any longer.....Anthony @Grizzly admiring my work!

IMG_3722.thumb.JPG.fbfbb6f28ecc385106c58ecd03a80f21.JPG

 

1st listening sesh with Dave (@chickanism?) @Grizzly 

IMG_3724.thumb.JPG.7d9ee3d630a8bbde243eb0df8a89f2be.JPG

 

Very happy with final product

IMG_3725.thumb.JPG.0b4937a54fb30acfabfb5575dca4efd4.JPG

 

I still need to put the TT & Plasma TV on top......if I had my time again I would have made it 1800 or even 2000 long but apart from that, I'm very happy with it!

 

Thanks for watching!

 

Cheers

Matt

IMG_3714.JPG

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My apologies, in my rush to publish the photos I forgot to thank Ant & Dave for helping me to set up the new rack!

Cheers fellas

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So that's what the back of my scone looks like! Explains a lot.....

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11 hours ago, Grizzly said:

So that's what the back of my scone looks like! Explains a lot.....

Happy to donate 5 of my kg's to you too mate, if you like. :D

 

#fatbastard

 

Edited by Darren69

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Happy to donate 5 of my kg's to you too mate, if you like.
 
#fatbastard
 
The generous SNA spirit lives!!

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Moderator

Come up an absolute treat ! And fits in well to surrounds as well. Well done  Matt !

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Looks great. What did you use to fix the threaded rods to the top panel?

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Hi 943,

They were called safety screws but that was because they’re supplied with a specific insert to tighten them, basically a counter sunk bolt.

I then used a washer & a joiner to tighten & connect the threaded rod which passed through each pane, covered by the metal pipe & then terminated with x2 nuts under the bottom panel.

Simples!

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My biggest struggle was to find everything in the same size as Bunnings seem to have mixtures of metric & imperial...I ended up using size M8 for everything.

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Thanks - so this is your joiner - threaded rod under and countersunk M8 bolt on top?
25b696a9a4ed86650261b40d8d8cabbc.jpg

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That looks brilliant, Matt.

 

The concept was good, but it's all in the detail and execution, which appear to be flawless.  I have a tendency to get impatient and throw things together, taking too many shortcuts along the way.  Or I rush it, botch things up and spend twice as much time patching up the mess.

 

OTOH, you seem to have taken the time to think out all the detail beforehand, research the options and do a thoroughly professional job.

 

Well done!  Are you taking orders yet?

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Thanks for all the kind words everyone, really happy with the end results.

 

This is the top of the counter sunk bolt that was screwed into the joiner with the threaded rod screwed into the other end.

 

IMG_3731.thumb.JPG.f5b29bf4174bc2e7ff67a2c986e1c648.JPG

IMG_3732.thumb.JPG.69054b24be207b70200466e3b1156291.JPG

 

More photo's with the TV & TT.

 

IMG_3730.thumb.JPG.e2a7e49deaa583f694f7f13c0e45ba8f.JPG

IMG_3733.thumb.JPG.7418910536fbb206ccc8991b9ecbdb97.JPG

 

I may switch the Isotek & Ayre power amp around as it will look more symmetrical but I may stick with the current layout. I'm also to sand & oil the off cuts & turn these into isolation platforms for the Pre, power amp & transport.

 

The panels themselves were crazy cheap @ $99 ea. from Bunnings, just don't ask them to cut them for you! I noticed mine bowed a little bit after oiling...in which I only oiled the tops (x5 coats) so if I were to do it again, I'd give the back a coat earlier in case this caused some slight bowing.

 

When drilling the holes for the threaded rods, we made a jig to ensure each drill hole was the same on each corner (i.e. 50mm by 50mm), then stacked the x4 panels on top of each other, held them in place with clamps & drilled them all the way through x4 panels, we then inserted the threaded rods to ensure they would pass through.

 

When it came to assembly, we did it upside down, i.e the top panel, upside down 1st (connected the counter sunk bolt to the joiner & then the threaded rods to the joiner, it was then a matter of placing the steel pipes over the threaded rods (x5) & then carefully dropping the next panel over each threaded rod onto the tops of the metal pipes. Once we had all the panels loaded up, we then spent time to ensure that each post was aligned using a set square. We then used an angle grinder to cut the threaded rods (leave a nut under the cut so you can straighten out the thread by screwing the nut off which straightens the thread). We then used x2 nuts on each rod to tighten it all up.

 

Any other questions, let me know.

 

Cheers

Matt

 

 

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22 minutes ago, mattjtaylor2809 said:

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, really happy with the end results.

 

This is the top of the counter sunk bolt that was screwed into the joiner with the threaded rod screwed into the other end.

 

IMG_3731.thumb.JPG.f5b29bf4174bc2e7ff67a2c986e1c648.JPG

IMG_3732.thumb.JPG.69054b24be207b70200466e3b1156291.JPG

 

More photo's with the TV & TT.

 

IMG_3730.thumb.JPG.e2a7e49deaa583f694f7f13c0e45ba8f.JPG

IMG_3733.thumb.JPG.7418910536fbb206ccc8991b9ecbdb97.JPG

 

I may switch the Isotek & Ayre power amp around as it will look more symmetrical but I may stick with the current layout. I'm also to sand & oil the off cuts & turn these into isolation platforms for the Pre, power amp & transport.

 

The panels themselves were crazy cheap @ $99 ea. from Bunnings, just don't ask them to cut them for you! I noticed mine bowed a little bit after oiling...in which I only oiled the tops (x5 coats) so if I were to do it again, I'd give the back a coat earlier in case this caused some slight bowing.

 

When drilling the holes for the threaded rods, we made a jig to ensure each drill hole was the same on each corner (i.e. 50mm by 50mm), then stacked the x4 panels on top of each other, held them in place with clamps & drilled them all the way through x4 panels, we then inserted the threaded rods to ensure they would pass through.

 

When it came to assembly, we did it upside down, i.e the top panel, upside down 1st (connected the counter sunk bolt to the joiner & then the threaded rods to the joiner, it was then a matter of placing the steel pipes over the threaded rods (x5) & then carefully dropping the next panel over each threaded rod onto the tops of the metal pipes. Once we had all the panels loaded up, we then spent time to ensure that each post was aligned using a set square. We then used an angle grinder to cut the threaded rods (leave a nut under the cut so you can straighten out the thread by screwing the nut off which straightens the thread). We then used x2 nuts on each rod to tighten it all up.

 

Any other questions, let me know.

 

Cheers

Matt

 

 

Great work! and yes, any timber panel will bow if you only treat one side, including mdf. You need to do all sides and edges the same to keep bowing to a minimum.

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33 minutes ago, swervyn said:

.....any timber panel will bow if you only treat one side, including mdf. You need to do all sides and edges the same to keep bowing to a minimum.

YES!  An absolute must otherwise the surfaces of timber/board move at unequal rates causing bowing, and splitting and cracking on timber.  

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Looks awesome Matt. Well done!

 

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The screw heads on the top shelf look heaps better than my painted cuphead bolt heads I think, great stuff.

 

That looks fantastic, great effort.

Edited by Darren69

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