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AV/HI Fi Rack Project


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Looks good mate, I would think about filling the stainless tubes as well to stop them ringing. May not be a problem but may as well eliminate it from the start. Dry sand, stuff in insulation or expanding foam. Just cut the top off flush when it drys.

Keep the pics coming mate.

 

Cheers Dave 

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I use the expanding foam that's used by plumbers/tradies to seal holes. Another good materiel is kitty litter, or lead shot(purchase in bulk - gun ranges sell it, or gun shops.  If you are going to use sand use dried river sand. 

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5 minutes ago, frankn said:

I use the expanding foam that's used by plumbers/tradies to seal holes. Another good materiel is kitty litter, or lead shot(purchase in bulk - gun ranges sell it, or gun shops.  If you are going to use sand use dried river sand. 

pebbles of choice from bunnings ive also seen used, where dont want the mess of sand, or if worried about it leaking outfit things not a perfect seal.

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Hi Guys, I’ve also got to factor in the threaded rod that will be running down the centre of each metal pipe, maybe expanding foam will be better but that would mean I’d have to wait 24 hours or so for each pipe to set before adding the next level....I’m not sure I’m that patient!

I’m also toying with the idea of putting it on good quality castors/wheels?

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25 minutes ago, mattjtaylor2809 said:

I’m also toying with the idea of putting it on good quality castors/wheels

Not sure why...damages carpet more...

Unless on tiles will be almost impossible to move when completely loaded anyway...

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Personally, I doubt they would have a significant SQ downside, but I'm sure some would argue otherwise.

 

I like being able to move stuff without hassle and I have made trolleys for things like tractor front end loaders that makes items up to 500kg easy to shift.  This mob have a fantastic range: 

https://www.admerch.com.au/

 

Better than the Bunnings ones and you might find some that have just the look you want.

 

However, if the appearance is still too industrial, you could always add a simple plinth to hide the castors.  My old Klipsch Belles have castors hiding behind the plinth and they work just fine but are totally invisible.  

Edited by Tony M
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And how will you affix them to the bottom of your pipe?  Can you weld?  Or you could turn some 60x60mm square timber to round plugs (on your lathe) leaving a square base and affix the castors to the bases. 

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Hi Guys,

I thought of using casters as I was struggling to workout how to affix the metal pipe & then have enough room to insert a cap or something to cover the exposed pipe. I also need to factor in the termination of the threaded rod.

So....my theory is that they will be screwed directly to the underside of the bottom panel although I may add a block of hardwood to give us more than 26mm to screw them into.

Tony... the casters I’ve bought look similar to what’s available at Admerch


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They’re rated at 40 kgs ea. so x5 should be ok.

Any other ideas let me know

Cheers all
Matt

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My shelving has aluminium posts and they don't ring, they are hollow. Fill the posts if you want to but I don't think it will make any difference in the big scheme of things.

 

Feet are easy but you might need someone to weld some plate on the top and bottom and then grind/buff. You should have a hole at the top for your threaded rod to come through and a hole at the bottom for your socket to go into to tighten the threaded rod up and presto. Stick on some felt and your done.

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Some progress photos:

Drilling the holes for the threaded rods via our lit jig.

03ed26fcc580d309949e006d54f1f099.jpg

d67e803a4218355f67bedf6ed1f8d51e.jpg

Initial construction to check stability

0c083c4c4314486bfa30f675cf61e6d1.jpg

What it should look like when finished

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We’ve taken it apart & about to start lots of sanding & oiling before we build it up again, this time for good.

Cheers all

Matt

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looking good.

 

My previous rack was on castors and I would do it again for this style you are building. Getting behind the mess of cables is always a headache, but significantly reduced if the rack can be moved easily. Thankfully in my simplification of my system the new entertainment unit can still be lifted and repositioned easily as less boxes means less weight.

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We'll done Matt. Looking terrific.

It's very satisfying to make something yourself. Even better when you can work with your dad and pick up neat little tricks like that jig.

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Nice work! Great way to get oversized shelves to suit bigger footprint gear.

 

Looks very similar to my efforts - though I went for a more industrial look (weighs a ton!) and was too lazy to sand/oil the wood just yet.

 

One thing I have found is that it's not as stable as you think - I have my TT on the top level and it can easily be made to jump with a small bump of the middle or top shelves.

 

824abbfa07b6c22f0adae50b706ecc21.thumb.jpg.b6a058d716ec05e3e347ea2024970dc3.jpg

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