Pops110 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Looks good mate, I would think about filling the stainless tubes as well to stop them ringing. May not be a problem but may as well eliminate it from the start. Dry sand, stuff in insulation or expanding foam. Just cut the top off flush when it drys. Keep the pics coming mate. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 I like the idea of filling the pipes, thanks for that idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankn Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 I use the expanding foam that's used by plumbers/tradies to seal holes. Another good materiel is kitty litter, or lead shot(purchase in bulk - gun ranges sell it, or gun shops. If you are going to use sand use dried river sand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betty boop Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 5 minutes ago, frankn said: I use the expanding foam that's used by plumbers/tradies to seal holes. Another good materiel is kitty litter, or lead shot(purchase in bulk - gun ranges sell it, or gun shops. If you are going to use sand use dried river sand. pebbles of choice from bunnings ive also seen used, where dont want the mess of sand, or if worried about it leaking outfit things not a perfect seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveC Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Put the sand in small snap seal bags 3/4 full and they should drop in, no mess. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi Guys, I’ve also got to factor in the threaded rod that will be running down the centre of each metal pipe, maybe expanding foam will be better but that would mean I’d have to wait 24 hours or so for each pipe to set before adding the next level....I’m not sure I’m that patient!I’m also toying with the idea of putting it on good quality castors/wheels? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob181 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 25 minutes ago, mattjtaylor2809 said: I’m also toying with the idea of putting it on good quality castors/wheels Not sure why...damages carpet more... Unless on tiles will be almost impossible to move when completely loaded anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 I don’t need to move it much, I’m just looking into alternatives to the 50mm pipe as I’m struggling to work out how I’m to affix them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Something like these?$8.95 eaWhat effect would they have, if at all on SQ?CheersMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) Personally, I doubt they would have a significant SQ downside, but I'm sure some would argue otherwise. I like being able to move stuff without hassle and I have made trolleys for things like tractor front end loaders that makes items up to 500kg easy to shift. This mob have a fantastic range: https://www.admerch.com.au/ Better than the Bunnings ones and you might find some that have just the look you want. However, if the appearance is still too industrial, you could always add a simple plinth to hide the castors. My old Klipsch Belles have castors hiding behind the plinth and they work just fine but are totally invisible. Edited January 7, 2018 by Tony M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankn Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 And how will you affix them to the bottom of your pipe? Can you weld? Or you could turn some 60x60mm square timber to round plugs (on your lathe) leaving a square base and affix the castors to the bases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Why not just screw or bolt them to the bottom shelf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi Guys,I thought of using casters as I was struggling to workout how to affix the metal pipe & then have enough room to insert a cap or something to cover the exposed pipe. I also need to factor in the termination of the threaded rod.So....my theory is that they will be screwed directly to the underside of the bottom panel although I may add a block of hardwood to give us more than 26mm to screw them into.Tony... the casters I’ve bought look similar to what’s available at AdmerchThey’re rated at 40 kgs ea. so x5 should be ok.Any other ideas let me knowCheers allMatt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flux Capacitor Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flux Capacitor Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Moderator, please remove. Accidental post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren69 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 My shelving has aluminium posts and they don't ring, they are hollow. Fill the posts if you want to but I don't think it will make any difference in the big scheme of things. Feet are easy but you might need someone to weld some plate on the top and bottom and then grind/buff. You should have a hole at the top for your threaded rod to come through and a hole at the bottom for your socket to go into to tighten the threaded rod up and presto. Stick on some felt and your done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Some progress photos:Drilling the holes for the threaded rods via our lit jig.Initial construction to check stabilityWhat it should look like when finishedWe’ve taken it apart & about to start lots of sanding & oiling before we build it up again, this time for good.Cheers allMatt 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blybo Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 looking good. My previous rack was on castors and I would do it again for this style you are building. Getting behind the mess of cables is always a headache, but significantly reduced if the rack can be moved easily. Thankfully in my simplification of my system the new entertainment unit can still be lifted and repositioned easily as less boxes means less weight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren69 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I bloody love it, it looks familiar actually. Great stuff Matty, I reckon you are pretty chuffed. You will love looking at it when you're sitting down for a listen etc. I still like mine heaps. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betty boop Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 looking fantastic ! even before its fully finished 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ugly Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 We'll done Matt. Looking terrific.It's very satisfying to make something yourself. Even better when you can work with your dad and pick up neat little tricks like that jig. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiebosco Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 wow!...you've got to be happy with how that's looking 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 More work on this tomorrow....mostly sanding & oiling though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattjtaylor2809 Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 X2 coats in....Looking very goodCheers allMatt 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caminperth Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Nice work! Great way to get oversized shelves to suit bigger footprint gear. Looks very similar to my efforts - though I went for a more industrial look (weighs a ton!) and was too lazy to sand/oil the wood just yet. One thing I have found is that it's not as stable as you think - I have my TT on the top level and it can easily be made to jump with a small bump of the middle or top shelves. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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