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Owen Y

Our DIY Ultrasonic Record Cleaner

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On 17/11/2019 at 9:14 PM, candyflip said:

I paid $300 for this damn thing (s/hand).

Can't I just get it fixed by someone in the know?.....

 

Or has this throwaway culture gone so far as there is no-one left to look at machines like this anymore?   :( 

@candyflipI agree with your sentiments but  with out the knowledge to be able to repair the Ultrasonic bath yourself , the cost of the labor and parts is likely to  be much more than the baths can be presently purchased for. 

 

Not all the Chinese US baths are the same and I have had mine for three and a half  years ,cleaning thousands of records with only one minor problem, that even with out being a Electrician, I was able to repair my self.

The bath I have are presently selling for $165.99

  

WWW.EBAY.COM.AU

Ultrasonic cleaning is based on the cavitation effect caused by high frequency ultrasonic wave vibration signals in fluid. 1.3L / 2L / 3L / 6L/10L/15L /22L/30L Digital Heated Ultrasonic Cleaner...

 

So my recommendation would be to buy another one, so you can start cleaning records again.

Yes you can spend $1800 on a ,perhaps, non Chinese, US bath and if that is what you want to do, go for it,but I do not believe you have to, to still get good results 

 

This is my post relating to the problem with mine

Noticed recently that the ripples on top of the water, in the Ultrasonic bath, were not quite the same and cleaning was a bit off.

I  assumed one or two of the three transducers must of failed. Not too bad considering I have probably cleaned  20 to 30 records a week for the last three years.

Opened up the bottom of the unit to see if replacing the transducers was an option or there was an easily visible fault.

Removing the bottom panel revealed that the transducers were wired in series and one had come un soldered, perhaps through a dry joint and vibrations.

Re soldered the offending joint and it is now as good as new.   

Second picture is before soldering, wire just striped back and twisted round tab. 🙂

 

1701309191_Ultrsoniccleanertran1.thumb.jpg.b91daa640c4776ab66e6ad8fe1b91d64.jpg

 

562353046_Ultrsoniccleanertran2.thumb.jpg.8039c9ca9a21d0d7b25610acffebcf82.jpg

Edited May 16 by EV Cali

 

 I am led to believe, by a post on another site,   that the 40kHz bath are presently being sold for a lot less than the cost of their parts, primarily because of the economies of scale, not because 60 kHz or 80kHz baths are actually more expensive to make.

 

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Edited by EV Cali

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@EV Cali that seems a strange configuration. It appears that two transducers (on the left) are wired in series, but the one on the right is from it's own separate waveform generator.

--------------------------------------------------

Edit: OK, probably not so strange, after doing a bit of a google and looking at common drivers and transducers. It looks like maybe one 100W driver supplying two 50W transducers, and a second 50W driver supplying one 50W transducer. Don't know how they sync them though, or even if it is a problem not being synced.

--------------------------------------------------

BTW most "electricians" wouldn't have a clue about them LOL, you need an Electronics Technician.

 

@candyflip in reality, they are a pretty simple circuit. A basic power supply and a square wave generator. So it shouldn't be too difficult for any Electronics Tech to repair. Where the problem comes in, is sourcing replacement parts, and the job hours. I imagine that most would be charging in the vicinity of $100/hour and some more than that. That's one of the reasons I got out of the game, the repair costs started to overtake the replacement cost of a lot of gear that was only worth a few hundred dollars, and make it not economically viable to repair.

 

Check out your local TV and consume brown goods repair type people, if you still have any in the game. Most have given up nowadays though and only a few diehards seem to hang on.

Edited by bob_m_54
more info

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@BoB-M

"@EV Cali that seems a strange configuration. It appears that two transducers (on the left) are wired in series, but the one on the right is from it's own separate waveform generator.

 

BTW most "electricians" wouldn't have a clue about them LOL, you need an Electronics Technician."

 

My Trade is a Carpenter and Joiner  but the configuration did appear strange  to me. Two transducers wired in series meant I lost both transducers when the wiring to only one failed.

On the bright side I may not have noticed the difference so soon if only one had.failed 

 

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Finally have had the chance to drop the bottom cover off both my dead machines. Ome has destroyed at least 1 if not 2 of the exciters. This can be seen by the epoxy falling out of them and the wires getting hot and fusing the solder joint. The other machine seems to only have fryed a transistor, so I'll attemp a repair on that one and see how things go. 

 

 

15750230721331331990356.jpg

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I don't have the skill to make my own so I just brought one from China.

20191126_191349.jpg

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Remember how I turned my US machine up too high and burned it out?

 

It also did a nice number on one of my test records.  :)  LOL

 

 

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Does the US clean offer an advantage over a vacuum machine like the new Project vc-e? http://www.clefhifi.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4444&gclid=CjwKCAiAluLvBRASEiwAAbX3GSjJGzqIgkmELorXtXxvY5qxpnj7ruBWNTuCDjcHl6rEZGcZxIVD5hoC3YMQAvD_BwE
 

Are there any pieces of kit still available to purchase? 
 

Cheers

 

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Hi @crtexcnndrm99

Ultrasonic freq 'cavitation' penetrates deep into fine, deep recesses of objects, like record grooves, dislodging gunk - that brush-scrubbing does not manage to get to.

 

If wish to add some detergent-surfactant to the water, it helps to 'solubilise' oily or adhered substances like record-pressing release-residues.

This helps rapid air-drying of records, as the water 'films' thinly over the record surface.

Or, ideally, use a record vacuum to vacuum-dry afterwards.

 

Yes, 'kit' parts are here ready to ship - price is still A$149 + airmail $15.

Assembly is simple, just 4 screws (+ 3 motor screws) - but we provide instructions & some cleaning advice.

You just need to get the tank & rotisserie motor....

 

I was given this link recently to the PS-30A, 6.5L tank needed:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-6-5L-Mechanical-Industrial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Ultra-Sonic-Wave-Tank-Basket/274098967977?hash=item3fd19255a9:g:LVsAAOSwEP5dnEwr&frcectupt=true

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/gasmate-240v-rotisserie-motor_p3180311

https://www.outdoorsdomain.com.au/gasmate-240v-rotisserie-motor/

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1938162590

 

More info here - https://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/2017/05/12/ultrasonic-record-cleaning-pt-2/

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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15 minutes ago, Owen Y said:

Hi @crtexcnndrm99

Ultrasonic freq 'cavitation' penetrates deep into fine, deep recesses of objects, like record grooves, dislodging gunk - that brush-scrubbing does not manage to get to.

 

If wish to add some detergent-surfactant to the water, it helps to 'solubilise' oily or adhered substances like record-pressing release-residues.

This helps rapid air-drying of records, as the water 'films' thinly over the record surface.

Or, ideally, use a record vacuum to vacuum-dry afterwards.

 

Yes, 'kit' parts are here ready to ship - price is still A$149 + airmail $15.

Assembly is simple, just 4 screws (+ 3 motor screws) - but we provide instructions & some cleaning advice.

You just need to get the tank & rotisserie motor....

 

I was given this link recently to the PS-30A, 6.5L tank needed:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-6-5L-Mechanical-Industrial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Ultra-Sonic-Wave-Tank-Basket/274098967977?hash=item3fd19255a9:g:LVsAAOSwEP5dnEwr&frcectupt=true

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/gasmate-240v-rotisserie-motor_p3180311

https://www.outdoorsdomain.com.au/gasmate-240v-rotisserie-motor/

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1938162590

 

More info here - https://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/2017/05/12/ultrasonic-record-cleaning-pt-2/

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

That sounds excellent. I’d like to purchase a kit then!

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Hi @crtexcnndrm99 - excellent, we can have one packed for you within a day or so.

When it's packed ready to ship, we'll Paypal you.

 

Please PMessage me your postal name & address & email for Paypal.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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39 minutes ago, Owen Y said:

Hi @crtexcnndrm99 - excellent, we can have one packed for you within a day or so.

When it's packed ready to ship, we'll Paypal you.

 

Please PMessage me your postal name & address & email for Paypal.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

Sounds great - pm sent!

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Someone brought to our attention this ebay.au link for the Ultrasonic Cleaner tank which appears to be the same as what we use & fits our kit:

Price seems good at AU $166.99 for the '6.5L' model. (Model PS-30A)

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Heater-Timer-Industrial-Grade-1-3-30L/282539569913?hash=item41c8abb2f9:m:mZod3FFNC6C2NgX0NKn8Ixw&frcectupt=true

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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On 30/11/2019 at 8:37 PM, candyflip said:

Remember how I turned my US machine up too high and burned it out?

 

It also did a nice number on one of my test records.  :)  LOL

Although some users report improved results with heating the fluid, I don't think that there is any need to turn on heating in these US cleaner tanks, the system cleans beautifully without heating, using just the 0.1 -0,5% surfactant/detergent mix.

 

The ultrasonic action tends to raise the fluid temperature a little anyway (depending on how many records/cycles you run in a session).

 

I do recommend vacuum-drying if you still have a record vacuum or such.

And either filter of otherwise keep your fluid as refreshed as clean as possible.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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Just for info, I have a similar unit that I got from the guy who invented this type of cleaning device. It works well, the cleaning mix is about 80% distilled water 20% pure lab  alcohol and a couple of drops of Kodak koda flow, this works well.

And I have found that to get more use out of this mix before replacing the fluid just float a couple of large Kleenex tissues on top of the fluid when all of the gunk from the records has floated to the top, then carefully slowly remove the tissues and all of the floating gunk will stick to the tissues.  

 

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12 hours ago, Owen Y said:

Although some users report improved results with heating the fluid, I don't think that there is any need to turn on heating in these US cleaner tanks, the system cleans beautifully without heating, using just the 0.1 -0,5% surfactant/detergent mix.

The science says US are barely effective with fluid temperatures less than a fair whack of heat being added (technical terms) ;) 

I can quote the papers for you, but a Google search turns up a bit on it.

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1 hour ago, phileaudio said:

Just for info, I have a similar unit that I got from the guy who invented this type of cleaning device. It works well, the cleaning mix is about 80% distilled water 20% pure lab  alcohol and a couple of drops of Kodak koda flow, this works well.

 

My understanding is that 5% alcohol is the go - especially if you heat the liquid.  Any higher and you are risking the alcohol igniting.

 

Quote

And I have found that to get more use out of this mix before replacing the fluid just float a couple of large Kleenex tissues on top of the fluid when all of the gunk from the records has floated to the top, then carefully slowly remove the tissues and all of the floating gunk will stick to the tissues.

 

That is a great trick!  :thumb:  However, whilst it will certainly remove the scum ... I suspect there is gunk which has fallen to the bottom of the tank - so a filter circuit is required.

 

Andy

 

Edited by andyr

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11 hours ago, andyr said:

 

My understanding is that 5% alcohol is the go - especially if you heat the liquid.  Any higher and you are risking the alcohol igniting.

 

 

That is a great trick!  :thumb:  However, whilst it will certainly remove the scum ... I suspect there is gunk which has fallen to the bottom of the tank - so a filter circuit is required.

 

Andy

 

You need in excess of 40% ABV to ignite. Try it out on your preferred spirits... hic..

 

Edit: Warning, don't try it with Stroh Rum...

Edited by bob_m_54

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16 hours ago, candyflip said:

The science says US are barely effective with fluid temperatures less than a fair whack of heat being added (technical terms) ;) 

I can quote the papers for you, but a Google search turns up a bit on it.

Chaps - my experience is that ultrasonic cleaning with a 0.1+% dilution pure, non-ionic, detergent-surfactant mix at ambient temp.  gives excellent sonic results - more balanced tonally (without the slight brightness) than traditional (20%) iso-alcohol-water-surfactant cleaning  & the stylus seems to track better (dynamics are more open at both ends of the freq band) - I suspect that detergent residue may be a factor, not unlike when using Lyra's SPT stylus treatment.

 

Depending on season, anything from 18-35deg C works very well.

 

I clean also new vinyl, to remove stamper-release residue before playing. This gives consistently good sonic improvements.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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If you run a 5% IPA mix at 35 degrees, does the alcohol evaporate ?

 

Mr Relish

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4 minutes ago, Monkey_Relish said:

If you run a 5% IPA mix at 35 degrees, does the alcohol evaporate ?

 

Mr Relish

 

Naturally!  :)  So:

  • that's probably a good reason to start with a higher %, and
  • you keep having to top it up.

Andy

 

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13 hours ago, Monkey_Relish said:

If you run a 5% IPA mix at 35 degrees, does the alcohol evaporate ?

 

Mr Relish

Yes it does, but not at a rate that will produce flammable levels, at moderate temperatures. That's why you should always ad a nip of brandy, when topping up your port barrel, even though it is ethanol.

 

See how drinking can be such an educational activity? hic..

Edited by bob_m_54

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I am getting ready to give this a go.

Do the labels ever get wet? I am not very keen on that.

Is the authoritative process for both precious/collectables and market scores posted somewhere? eg do you use revirginiser/glue or purely the US cleaner? Do you wipe them with something special or how do you dry them? How long do you bath them for?

Any other equipment needed?

Cheers

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I haven' read all of this topic, but one comment I will make is that while mechanical processes can remove surface gunk and dust, it can never restore a played vinyl record to its original, pristine condition. This is because the stylus exerts so much pressure on the record at its point that it liquifies the vinyl. So the vinyl becomes a liquid then solidifies again once the stylus has passed. This allows 2 things to occur:

  1. microscopic distortion in the groove as it melts and re-hardens,
  2. foreign matter that is present in the groove to fuse to the vinyl while it is in a temporary liquid state.

No cleaning process can correct for these.

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