Jump to content

source for quality spade & banana connectors??


Recommended Posts

Hi all. Where is a decent source for spades and banana connectors for speaker cables, at the right price? Australia or overseas

cheers

Alan

Edited by aertex
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Gold is a better conductor than Rhodium, but if the base metal is brass that is not a good conductor at all.   Brass is like 28% where copper is 100% and gold is 70% Rhodium about 38%  

I would never tin the wire before crimping. Actually if you read into it, it’s not recommended at all. The tinned wire can much more easily crack and break.  The recommended way is to twist the wires.

Your guys are great, lots of helpful advice here. I was a bit hesitant at first but I'm now feeling a lot more confident about being able to pull this off.  I'll definitely be posting back here w

Depends on what you mean by quality and right price.  Selby (Australian) has a lot of well-machined connectors but all of them will probably be gold-plated brass or nickel.  RS Australia has the Swiss mult-contact banana plugs which are gold-plated beryllium copper and a bit of an industry standard.  They're around $4-$5 each but need soldering plus heat shrink over the solder joins.

 

If you are looking for higher quality than brass e.g. pure copper, gold-plated copper, or silver plated copper connectors then it gets more difficult and prices are quite a bit more expensive.

 

cheers

 

Geoff

Link to post
Share on other sites

For me, the best and cheapest is bare wire. I have tried various connectors and no connector at all sounds best, maybe not as convenient though.

Link to post
Share on other sites


Seriously, as long as they are gold plated etc. is various brands of the banana plugs really going to make a difference to the sound? Or is it more $$$ = higher perception?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest scumbag
1 minute ago, digitalhome said:

Seriously, as long as they are gold plated etc. is various brands of the banana plugs really going to make a difference to the sound? Or is it more $$$ = higher perception?

Yes it will make some difference however small and more-so when the speaker impedance is low. I gave a link to a good quality cheap spade as per the OP's question and in fact no one has suggested any connectors that are expensive.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest BobbyD

The only ones I will now use (if not using bare wire) are Audio Note silver.

 

Can be sourced in Aust and best bang for buck I have heard, just need a soldering iron.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites


Where is the source in Australia for these Audio Note's Surge? And yes bare wires are a pith, hence my need for connectors for 2 pairs of cables I have

Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest BobbyD
8 hours ago, aertex said:

Where is the source in Australia for these Audio Note's Surge? And yes bare wires are a pith, hence my need for connectors for 2 pairs of cables I have

http://www.audionote.com.au/Audio_Note_Australia/Cables_%26_Accessories.html

 

Drop an email to address on this page from supplied link , that will get things rolling.

 

@guru will help you from there, very good to deal with.

 

Hope this helps....... Regards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Currently using Audioquest 500 series banana plugs really good quality hanging silver directly over pure Purple Copper but the SureGrip 300 could be another alternative 

theaudioexperts.com.au got some prices but any local Audioquest dealer will be able to help you 

Neo

IMG_4547.PNG

Link to post
Share on other sites


Guest scumbag

@aertex the Audioquest stuff (the 300 series or better would be where I would start looking) is good but you just have to make sure that you get your AQ stuff from a reputable dealer. There are a lot of suppliers (Ebay etc) based in China that are selling rip offs of AQ stuff. Apparently they are the most ripped off high end brand. If it's really cheap then it might be a fake. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
On 10/03/2017 at 8:32 PM, Guest scumbag said:

These are very high copper content brass with a nice think gold plating - http://www.chromeaudio.com.au/store/connectors-spade-terminals-c-66_99 - well priced too. 

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone knows whether Chrome Audio are still in business and if anyone else has tried the spade terminals above? 

I've sent them a message and got no reply and the number on their contact page goes to a private phone that is not related to their online shop.

 

Alternatively if anyone has any idea where one could source some decent spade connectors, preferably gold plated real copper that would be great. I'm trying to avoid the cheap and nasty stuff on eBay.  Thanks in advance 

 

Edited by Willmax
Link to post
Share on other sites


3 hours ago, Willmax said:

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone knows whether Chrome Audio are still in business and if anyone else has tried the spade terminals above? 

I've sent them a message and got no reply and the number on their contact page goes to a private phone that is not related to their online shop.

 

Alternatively if anyone has any idea where one could source some decent spade connectors, preferably gold plated real copper that would be great. I'm trying to avoid the cheap and nasty stuff on eBay.  Thanks in advance 

 

ETI research have Tellurium Copper with Rhodium plating ones

 

https://eti-research.com/spade-connectors/

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'd prefer the lower mass over the newer design, unfortunately it is discontinued at Soundlabsgroup website, but that is sort of what I'm looking for. 

 

I found these EGM which look nice but there is no mention of copper, so probably other base metal is used I assume.  

https://www.heynowhifi.com.au/collections/cables-connectors-plugs/products/egm-audio-spade-plug-gold-plated-1-pc

 

same deal here, no mention of copper anywhere

https://www.heynowhifi.com.au/collections/cables-connectors-plugs/products/audioquest-p10m-spade-connectors-6-8mm-10awg?variant=39543318249622

Edited by Willmax
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure if I'd call the EGM low mass, but....yeah are they a copper alloy base metal or brass.

 

Not as many doing spades these days as there once were.

Edited by muon*
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, muon* said:

Not sure if I'd call the EGM low mass, but....yeah are they a copper alloy base metal or brass.

Yes agree not low mass and no mention of the base metal... which is a bit sus 

 

There are a few interesting options in the Parts Connection link above, under connectors / spades.

 

Another local alternative below, unfortunately it won't suit my amp

https://www.jdaudioonline.com.au/product/kimber-pm-25/

Edited by Willmax
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, Willmax said:

@Bill125812 have you got any experience with the EGM Audio connectors in general?

Sorry mate.   But no experience at all 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The Valve Store in Glen Waverley (Vic) has the EGM spades as well https://www.thevalvestore.com.au/41-audio-connectors

They have one version that is "gold plated" and another which is "rhodium plated", no mention of the base material.  I saw them a while ago and wondered if they were any good. 

 

Would they be considered to be a quality spade?  Would the gold or rhodium version be better?  Would there be something that would be a much safer purchase for a quality spade that won't break the bank (I know the WBT's are good, but they are expensive). 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gold is a better conductor than Rhodium, but if the base metal is brass that is not a good conductor at all.

 

Brass is like 28% where copper is 100% and gold is 70% Rhodium about 38%

 

Brass verses Beryllium Copper as a base metal

Brass 28%

Beryllium Copper 32% to 38% (heat treated for maximum electrical conductivity) Edit: Correction! high conductivity Beryllium Copper has an Electrical conductivity: 45–63% IACS

https://copperalliance.org.uk/about-copper/conductivity-materials/copper-beryllium/

 

Not sure about resistivity, but as seen above Beryllium Copper as a base metal should generally be a better electrical conductor compared to Brass.

 

Edit: Most will se some of this as splinting hairs, but I like any advantage I can get in the signal path :)

Edited by muon*
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Found a good range with different option at https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/spades.html 

 

Sadly I could not find anything local that would suit what I was after so I ended up ordering some CMC gold plated copper spades from the above site. I hope it arrives soon.

 

Now I need to work out the best way to attach them to a flat ribbon copper cable :P

 

cmc_6005sg_180.jpg

Edited by Willmax
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Willmax said:

Found a good range with different option at https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/spades.html 

 

Sadly I could not find anything local that would suit what I was after so I ended up ordering some CMC gold plated copper spades from the above site. I hope it arrives soon.

 

Now I need to work out the best way to attached them to a flat ribbon copper cable :P

 

cmc_6005sg_180.jpg

Fold the corners of the ribbon ends at and angle so it comes to a point, kind of. Depending on the width of the ribbon you can get it to form well to fit with folding.

 

I always forget hificollective as they are a tad dearer than parts connexon who is my go to shop if i can't get what i need local. Although i used to shop at both equally as I needed parts from both places.

 

Edit: geez, they look nice, and cheap too! :thumb:

Edited by muon*
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Rather than fold, roll the edges of the ribbon so the ribbon is flush with the inner-face if the connector when inserted, tin the face of the ribbon after rolling when you have a good fit and also the connector before soldering to secure, and secure the cable to connector with the self adhesive  type of heat shrink tubing.

 

You might modify that above and get an even better idea for good area contact and strength :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

When I've used that crimp-style connection I will insert the wire, then close the ribbon with pliers so the two pieces touch in the centre.  As I don't have a ratcheted crimping tool, I will place it on an solid surface and use a hammer to flatten so it is extremely tight and secure.  No need to solder.  I will cover the top and bottom of the spade so the hammering doesn't mark it. 

 

Before starting I will slip some heatshrink around the cable to slide over the back of the spade after connecting it so it looks nice (using red and black to reflect the polarity of the connections). 

While doing that, I will also use a piece of red/black heatshrink a few inches up from the spades so each speaker cable is identified as the left/right channel. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, muon* said:

tin the face of the ribbon after rolling when you have a good fit

I would never tin the wire before crimping. Actually if you read into it, it’s not recommended at all. The tinned wire can much more easily crack and break.  The recommended way is to twist the wires. Then crimp. If done properly you will almost get a solid weld like bond. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Bill125812 said:

I would never tin the wire before crimping. Actually if you read into it, it’s not recommended at all. The tinned wire can much more easily crack and break.  The recommended way is to twist the wires. Then crimp. If done properly you will almost get a solid weld like bond. 

Cheers

 

I was looking at the whole approch in a different way, maybe not a good idea *shrug*

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, audiofeline said:

When I've used that crimp-style connection I will insert the wire, then close the ribbon with pliers so the two pieces touch in the centre.  As I don't have a ratcheted crimping tool, I will place it on an solid surface and use a hammer to flatten so it is extremely tight and secure.  No need to solder.  I will cover the top and bottom of the spade so the hammering doesn't mark it. 

 

Before starting I will slip some heatshrink around the cable to slide over the back of the spade after connecting it so it looks nice (using red and black to reflect the polarity of the connections). 

While doing that, I will also use a piece of red/black heatshrink a few inches up from the spades so each speaker cable is identified as the left/right channel. 

 

Get yourself a decent set of crimpers. Hammering is a bad idea as you can over compress the joint, damage the wire and damage the crimp connector.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Your guys are great, lots of helpful advice here. I was a bit hesitant at first but I'm now feeling a lot more confident about being able to pull this off. 

I'll definitely be posting back here when the spade connectors have been delivered. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, bob_m_54 said:

Get yourself a decent set of crimpers. Hammering is a bad idea as you can over compress the joint, damage the wire and damage the crimp connector.

I was looking into getting a crimper a while ago, but I would have so little use for them I wonder if it would be worth the investment (ie, one or two crimps every few years).  The cheap ones I saw didn't have a ratchet, and I don't have a strong hand grip.  I don't know much about them, is there anything you can suggest that I look for or avoid in a budget crimper?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, audiofeline said:

I was looking into getting a crimper a while ago, but I would have so little use for them I wonder if it would be worth the investment (ie, one or two crimps every few years).  The cheap ones I saw didn't have a ratchet, and I don't have a strong hand grip.  I don't know much about them, is there anything you can suggest that I look for or avoid in a budget crimper?

 

I would actually recommend one with a ratchet as you said.  And one with interchangeable heads Is preferable. Will cover anything you need.  I’ve have a few but recently bought this one. I was very sceptical but is actually really good 

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301623918249

Edited by Bill125812
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By kurof
      Item:
      Price Range: reasonable
      Item Condition: New or Used
      Extra Info:
      I'm after 4 large spade connectors that can accommodate approx 7mm+ cable, I'm Biwiring and it's hard to get 2x 4mm cables in one spade. 
      pm me if you have some
      Cheers! 
       
      Please don't forget to report your post as FOUND when possible. (You can now delete this text).
    • By haygeebaby
      * Item: Nirvana Audio S-X Ltd. Speaker cable 2.5m spades
      * Location: Perth – will post at buyers cost
      * Item condition description: Excellent condition
      * Price and price conditions: $1500
      * Reason for selling: NLR
      * Payment Methods: Cash / Bank transfer
      * Extra Info: This is one of those unicorn speaker cables that is very hard to find. Purchased for a pair of Avantgarde Duo Omega horns. Initially had my equipment between the speakers but have since setup the equipment along the side of the room. Thus needing 8 meter runs of speaker cables.
      The S-X cables are well reviewed on the internet. Priced just below $4k AUD when new. Stereophile ranks the cable as one of the best. Enjoy-the-music rates the cable at nearly 98 out of 100 for all characteristics.

      I really enjoyed this cable. Wonderful sound. Very quiet backgrounds. Very good build quality.

      https://www.stereophile.com/cables/1005nirvana/index.html

      http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/0602/nirvanaaudio.htm

       




    • By frankn
      Item: FS :  Krispy Audio L3 RCA interconnect cables for sale, listed below -  UPDATE/Prices reduced
      Location:  Adelaide, 5052
      Price: see each item listed below
      Item Condition: As described in list
      Reason for selling:  Surplus to requirements / running XLR
      Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, EFT Only
      Extra Info:  Listed below - New Lower prices include shipping.

      Pictures:  Yes Krispy Audio L3 cables;
       
      All present as new or excellent, no kinks, dents etc.  Used in pet free, non-smoking household.  Length measured incl. RCA plugs. 
       
      1.42m / $260 (slightly older version, has lockable black locking Furutech metal RCA, cover is Black braid with green spiral).  This cable uses the same Furutech Alpha series balance audio FA-220 cable with PCOCC conductor
      1.26m / $255(Furutech Alpha series balance audio FA-220 cable with PCOCC conductor, current Furutech FT-11G locking RCA)
       
      For example the same L3 cable 1.2m / new $400
      For example the same L3 cable 1.8m / new $468
       
       
       
      Cheers
      frankn 
      Price reductions
       

    • By Phillb
      Item: OYAIDE SPYT Spade Lugs
      Location: Cronulla NSW
      Price: $40 per box of 4
      Item Condition: brand new, unused
      Reason for selling: did not have a use for them
      Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only
      Extra Info: Palladium over silver thick plating
      8mm, 6mm, AWG8
      Made in Japan
       
      Pictures:

    • Guest scumbag
      By Guest scumbag
      Item: Lenehan Audio PDX Tube Dac -  Mundorf Silver Gold Oil - USB & I2S inputs

      Location: Brisbane Northside - available during work hours.

      Price: $old

      Item Condition: Excellent

      Reason for selling: Changes to my work environment mean I have to get rid of a lot of equipment. I will keep it and use it at home if no-one wants it.
       
      Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal (as a friend or add 3%)
       
      Extra Info:
       
      Can be fed either USB or I2S. It has a toggle switch at the front to change between the two inputs. 16/24bit toggle switch also, You would need a transport that outputs I2S with a masterclock to get this to work - I believe. 16 bit is when used via I2S and 24bit is for USB.
       
      Was originally a USB only input. Terry Demol (zenelectro) installed the I2S input and did a general check over for the previous owner. Dual Mono premium “U-K”-grade Burr Brown PCM1704 DAC chips. This is an early PCB version.
       
      The 2.2uf Mundorf Silver Gold oil caps are worth about $280 delivered by themselves. Running a matched pair of gold lion 6922 tubes. The battery isolated USB input (similar to JKSPDIF MK3 I believe),
       
      This unit gives what I believe to be a very pleasing timbrel quality to music - not in any way the stereotypical "digital" sound. If you don't like the mild influence of tubes or NOS DAC chips, this is not for you - please move on.
       
       
      Pictures: I've thrown in a bonus image to get you prepared for Halloween (you'll know when you see it). 
       


       



×
×
  • Create New...