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I see the latest Luxman speaker cables have this wire called a "drain wire". Does anyone have any idea what it is meant to do because I'm confused as to its intended purpose.
It seems to be utilized in the interconnects as well.
I recently bought a LG 4K B8 Oled TV and already had a Sonos play base. The remote for the LG TV does not seem to interact with the Sonos so I am left having to adjust sound through my phone which is not ideal.
Is there a way around this. I believe I might need an infrared remote. Can anyone recommend.
Item: NEW ** Definitive Technology Supercube4000 / active sub-woofer
Location: Adelaide (for a friend).
Price: AUD 900.00 (RRP in Australia is $1795).
Item Condition: Brand New, never been used - box opened and re-packed.
Reason for selling: Mistake - wrong voltage - will need transformer ($100). Cannot fit transformer in to custom AV cabinet.
Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, or EFT
Extra Info: Prefer local pickup but can be shipped in original packaging - Shipping will be charged at cost (I anticipate no more than AUD 100.00) or buyer can organise.
• 8" (203mm) High Excursion Active Subwoofer Driver
• 2 x 8" (203mm) Planar Low Bass Radiators
• 1200 Watts Class HD digital tracking Amplifier
• Integrated 56 bit Digital Signal Processor (DSP) preamp stage
• Rock Solid Cabinets Ensure Pure Low Distortion Response
Pictures: Using Stock pictures as product re-packed
Wanted to buy, Mitsubishi remote control handset in good working condition to work on a HC4000 DLP projector. I believe it's the same for several other models too.
The projector is fully usable but a genuine remote would be nice rather than a clone from eBay, so if you have one then please message me with a price or I can do an exchange for an Optoma HD65 remote control in mint as new condition.
I purchased a Global Cache iTach Flex WiFi to control my home theatre, lights and air-conditioner. Unfortunately these devices are all spread around the room like so: https://i.imgur.com/NxLWASJ.jpg and the wimpy little Flex IR "blaster" could only control one of them at a time when pointed directly at it. So I designed my own IR "hyper-blaster". This works exceptionally well. I can point it anywhere in the room and control any of the devices. I can now mount it out of the way on top of my projector.
The IR LEDs are being driven at over five times their rated DC current but because this is only for a short pulse they can handle it .They're rated to much more than this (1.2A) for very short pulses (1us on, 10us off). I'm sure I can feel it heating up the room when in use
It's still a bit of a prototype mess at the moment but I'll take some in-situ photos when I receive the final part - a USB power splitter cable to enable me to run it and the iTach Flex from the same 5V 1A plug pack.
Construction details below if anyone else ever needs such a device:
Note: I wanted some 0.33uF caps for the 37kHz bypass but they are huge so I ended up using three groups of three 0.1uF caps. Three on the front of the PCB and six on the back.