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Garrard 401 problem


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My 401 has had a slight problem in the past with the on - off switch where sometimes it doesn't want to stay in the 'on' position , but usually it just takes a turn off and on again to right it.

Today however half way through a record the music slowed to a stop and I noticed the strobe light was flickering until it stopped. I did manage to get it spinning again, but it took about 5 on, offs to do so.

I'm pretty sure it's a mechanical fault, so has anyone had this problem and do you know how to fix it?

Can the linkages that operate these switches be adjusted?

Just when I was going to buy an upgraded bearing thingo from @@lovetube this problem pops up and stalls me.

Edited by Grumpy
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Apart from mechanical connectivity issues ? Or bad electrical connection

The only other thing that may cause your issue is the suppressor

Not expensive to replace @ about $20 / $25 for the part

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My 401 has had a slight problem in the past with the on - off switch where sometimes it doesn't want to stay in the 'on' position , but usually it just takes a turn off and on again to right it.

Today however half way through a record the music slowed to a stop and I noticed the strobe light was flickering until it stopped. I did manage to get it spinning again, but it took about 5 on, offs to do so.

I'm pretty sure it's a mechanical fault, so has anyone had this problem and do you know how to fix it?

Can the linkages that operate these switches be adjusted?

Just when I was going to buy an upgraded bearing thingo from @@lovetube this problem pops up and stalls me.

 

you might have the switch problem . take the unit off the plinth and taken the switch out and see if it falty . this i assume when you switch the unit to on the switch does lock in place ?

Duc

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One possibility that I have come across. When the switch is turned on a metal tab on the lever pushes a spring-loaded bar into the switch housing to make an electrical contact. If the bar is not pushed in far enough, or the contact is only just made, you may experience what you have seen:

post-111913-0-03583700-1466380796_thumb.

 

If this is the case, which you can test by pushing the bar in with the tip of a pencil while switch is in the 'Off' position, you can carefully bend the tab a small amount so that the bar is pushed further in and makes a clean contact.

 

If that is not the problem the spark suppressor might be faulty.

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Thanks fellas for that info.

TD19 I think I might give your suggestion a go first as I reckon it is a mechanical fault . If I apply a slight pressure to the 'on' switch and hold it there for a short while it does seem to do the trick.

Now to turn the 401 over with-out breaking anything which I did once before; -  Knocked the whole thing over smashing the SME3009 ouch!!!!!!

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If you can I would undo the mounting screw nuts and lift the chassis right off the plinth. Far less chance of damage to 401, SME and plinth! Also handle with care to avoid electrocuting yourself when testing underneath with power on.

Edited by TD19
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Unplugged it from the power and although a little apprehensive I think I bent the brown fibre 'bar a little and the switch seems to be ok for now.

Oh! and no major dramas thank goodness.

Thanks TD and others for your help

Edited by Grumpy
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Unplugged it from the power and although a little apprehensive I think I bent the brown fibre 'bar a little and the switch seems to be ok for now.

Oh! and no major dramas thank goodness.

Thanks TD and others for your help

So is it now ok ?

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Unplugged it from the power and although a little apprehensive I think I bent the brown fibre 'bar a little and the switch seems to be ok for now.

Oh! and no major dramas thank goodness.

Thanks TD and others for your help

Grump, I didn't mean the brown fibre bar (although glad it worked!) ....I meant the metal tab (1 in the pic) that sticks up and pushes the brown fibre bar in. It is quite thick metal so would need to be done with pliers, just 0.5-1mm closer to the end of the brown fibre bar in the Off position would be enough. Anyway, save that for if the workaround you have done fails ;-).

Edited by TD19
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Im thinking this "Old" 401 Garrard is becoming more of a hassle than its worth!

So if you decide to get a modern TT , one that works, suppose i could take this burden off

your hands.

:)

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Grump, I didn't mean the brown fibre bar (although glad it worked!) ....I meant the metal tab (1 in the pic) that sticks up and pushes the brown fibre bar in. It is quite thick metal so would need to be done with pliers, just 0.5-1mm closer to the end of the brown fibre bar in the Off position would be enough. Anyway, save that for if the workaround you have done fails ;-)

 

 

Ah yes I thought that might be what you meant. I will have ago at the metal tab tomorrow.

must have bent the fibre bar just enough to fool me that it was ok.

A try just awhile ago and it happened again aarrggghhhh!!!!!!

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Im thinking this "Old" 401 Garrard is becoming more of a hassle than its worth!

So if you decide to get a modern TT , one that works, suppose i could take this burden off

your hands.

:)

Cheeky bugger

I'll leave it to you in my will

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Ah yes I thought that might be what you meant. I will have ago at the metal tab tomorrow.

must have bent the fibre bar just enough to fool me that it was ok.

A try just awhile ago and it happened again aarrggghhhh!!!!!!

 

Alternatively you could cut a small square of thin perspex or similar hard material and glue it to the metal tab where it pushes the fibre bar in ... we want the fibre bar to go in a bit further when the switch is in the 'on' position. If bending be very careful, you don't want to fracture the metal.

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 the metal tab (1 in the pic) that sticks up and pushes the brown fibre bar in. It is quite thick metal so would need to be done with pliers, just 0.5-1mm closer to the end of the brown fibre bar in the Off position would be enough.

 

I LOVE you MAN ;) ;) :D

 

Bent the metal tab and all is well. Feels so much more secure in the 'on' position nowT

Thanks

:thumb:

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