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Found 8 results

  1. Item: 4x 1000uF 25V Blackgate NX caps Location: Melbourne Price: $300 $250AUD each (postage free). $1000 $900 for the lot. Will entertain reasonable offers. Item Condition: Used - test strongly Reason for selling: No longer required Payment Method: Paypal - will cover postage Extra Info: I have 4 1000uF Blackgate NX (25V) capacitors salvaged from unused DIY projects. They all have an ESR of < 0.016ohm, and have tested to the following values: 1067uF 1111uF 1081uF 1038uF Also selling on another platform - so whoever claims first wins. These are pricey, but I've trawled the internet, and these are available on ebay for $340USD (about $500!). So I guess they're a bargain? Photos:
  2. Item: Pair of Duelund 3.3uf 630 vDc CAST Pure Copper Foil Location: Sydney, 2232 Price: 800 ono ( Happy to post at buyers expense ) Item Condition: Very Good Reason for selling: Change Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: To quote Benjet who sold something similar..."If you know what these are then you don’t need me telling you all about them. If you don’t know them you probably don’t need them." Currently in use, will demount them when sold. These top of the line Duelunds were worth about 600 to 700 each when new as far as I can tell. Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  3. Hi fellow SNA members, I would like some clarification on the value of a capacitor for replacement on my Jamo D570. It is the tweeter cap at the top labelled 4.7k. I would like to replace them but am not sure of their value in uf. Any advice is appreciated. Best regards Darren.
  4. Item: Jantzen Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors, see below for values. Location: Sunny Nanango Price: Varies with type and value. Item Condition: I guess they count as new, still in their individual plastic bags from Speakerbug. Reason for selling: Bought to upgrade some speaker crossovers a few years ago but it did not happen, I upgraded the cabinets instead. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Superior Z-Caps, 800VDC 1.0uF $10 each (2) 3.3uF $12 each (1 only) 4.7uF $15 each (2) Standard Z-Caps, 400VDC 6.8uF $3 each (3) 15uF $6 each (2) Cross Caps, 400VDC 47uF $10 each (4) Pictures:
  5. Item: WITHDRAWN X2 Audience Auricap 4.7uf 400v NEW Location: Brisbane Price: - prefer local pickup but could post at cost (Officeworks is very cheap ATM). Item Condition: Perfect - never used. Reason for selling: I have a lot of extra speaker stuff that I picked up to experiment with. Need to get rid of some of it. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Add 3% if not paying as a friend - if you don't pay as a friend and don't add 3% then I will refund the payment - sorry a bit sick of people ignoring that request. Extra Info: Some comments / reviews from the interwebs: "Sound: I find these capacitors to have a pleasantly smooth and clear presentation that is slightly forward if directly compared to bright-ish capacitors like the Jantzen Silver Z-Cap or Silver Gold Z-Cap. The Auricap retrieve enough amibent information that helps to make an orchestra properly placed in a concert hall (recording permitting) and project the image more in the width than in the depth. Overall performance is very satisfactory and has something correct / complete about it. I have added them to my favourites list." "nice detail, speed, musicality, and their sound gives an extra bloom to the sound, which will make them fit well into somewhat cooler-sounding components" "The balance is perfect, the sound is perfectly neutral, uncoloured. Not even an hint of coloration" "smoother midrange but a neutral balance through the whole audio frequency spectrum…………..You can say that the Auricap does nothing wrong, but look elsewhere if you are looking for a cap to colour the tonal balance of your system." So I would describe them as neutral veering towards warm. Good detail and image depth. Well made and suitable for use in electronic components and crossovers. TNT review Pictures:
  6. Hi, I am considering buying this power amp for an active 2 way plus sub for the car. http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=273 The specs about power ratings are all rated in 14.4V and the power requirement is 14.4V as well (11 - 16 volt acceptabel). Sofar I know a car batery delivers no more than 12.6V. I am now looking into a farrad capacitor between the batery and the amp but will this be able to pump up the voltage to the required specifications of the amp? I am not sure how these things work and why they are rated in voltage specifications.
  7. I've been wondering about this for a while now. Why is it that some amp designers like to use a single, large cap (a Rubicon 10,000uF, 63V cap for instance) and some prefer to use several smaller rated caps. Now I realize that caps aint caps (and I'm only looking at electrolytics here, because I'm interested in the power filtration/delivery aspect) and some are likely to be better behaved than others but what is it that makes one cap better than another, or, just for instance, what about an amp that uses 6 3300uF caps makes it much different than an amp that uses 2 10,000uF caps? (apart from the slight difference in the total I mean) Do smaller rated caps discharge faster? I notice that the Perreaux Audiant series uses a bank of smaller caps instead of 2 or 3 big ones, and the ME amps use a bank of caps that are smaller than I thought they would be (I think they are 5000uF caps, where I sort of assumed that they would be 10,000uF because that is what most other amps use) and, well, it got me wondering why. (I realize that cost will likely come into this but I'm hoping it isn't the only reason, because that would be boring.) The Audiant and its bank of smaller caps. The Myryad Z142 and its much more standard layout of a single 10,000uF cap per channel.
  8. I bought this Cayin S200 amp a few months ago, thought it was really nice as far as sound quality went, it had a beautiful liquid feel to the bass and for a while I thought it might just be the best of my recent bunch. But then the liquid disappeared! It still sounded good, but it lacked that "special something", plenty of amps can sound good but unless they have something about them that is different (in a good way) then they don't necessarily rate as well as they could. I did some googling and found nothing on the S200 as such, but a fair amount about modding Cayin cd players and tube amps. Several of those involved changing out the "Realcaps" used by Cayin as standard and replacing them with something decent, Mundorf for instance. I was hoping that if I changed something around then maybe I could coax another special something out of this amp that used to sound so nice. At the moment my entire listening room is crammed into the old hot water system room while the coldroom is pulled down and rebuilt so naturally I'm scratching at the walls because I am having to watch TV and listen to music on the laptop (Oh the horror!) so I thought I'd have a go at DIY, it almost turned into DDTIY (Do Damage To It Yourself) for a while but things worked out well in the end. Cayin don't use the standard construction methods that most Chinese (and for that matter audio companies in general) manufacturers use, they use the big heat sinks and lots of screws but they utilize slightly thinner metal cases within those big heat sinks and then they spot weld the thinner cases. This gives you a case that is definitely strong but it does tend to flex a bit. This means that I could not disconnect the power amp stages from the power and pre stages with just a screwdriver. So I had to remove the power amp PCB from the heat sink while it was still within the amp, alright, so I got my hands on a few 90 degree screwdrivers and a socket ratchet with a screwdriver attachment and I went, ever so slowly, to town. I had about 14 of the 16 screws out when I found a 17th screw that was used to attach a voltage stabilizer/amplifier to the heat sink that I could not get to, they must have screwed it down to the heat sink and then soldered it on to the PCB once the other screws were in place. The whole screw removal process was so slow and painful, I don't like having to exercise my patience, my patience is weak and emaciated from under use so trying to get it to exercise it in this sort of way just makes it sore and cranky. It gave up and left pretty quickly so I had to bite my tongue to stop myself from doing something violent, it was not easy, but I managed (barely!). Now my soldering skills are new and shiny and not very advanced and I didn't want to try to play about on a PCB that had so much "stuff" close to it, what to do, what to do? I had wire cutters, and all sorts of power tools, and I thought if I just stared at the problem for a while it might go away. Eventually it did, but it took two trips to town (and a big hunt about once I was there since Jaycar has shut up shop for a long weekend for some unknown reason) however the pics below show what I have been able to create. And when many readers feel the urge to say something like "They stand out like....." it's alright, I thought the same thing myself! The little white cap is the old standard one, the big red one is the shiny new one. The blue cap just to the left of the middle of the pic is the one that has the hidden screw underneath it. Not happy Jan! And there we are, external shiny bits that any pig dog would be proud to call its own. Edit: Ooops, posted the topic instead of previewing it, Oh well, almost done anyway. It does seem a bit strange, but the Jantzen caps wouldn't have fit inside the case anyway (well, maybe they would have, but only just) so I thought I'd get a bit creative and in the process construct an amp that I could use to test the difference in output caps. However since Jaycar was closed I just soldered them on directly, I may mod it a little more later with an easy push in style fitting for the caps. I'll follow up on this once I've had a chance to hear them in action, I've only just left the amp on for 15 minutes to check that it doesn't spontaneously detonate or anything, yet to fire up a source on it.
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