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Found 35 results

  1. Item: Martin Logan Balanced Force 212 Subwoofer with Martin Logan PBK kit Location: Melbourne (Dandy ranges) Price: $4k ONO (RRP $8k not including PBK kit) Item Condition: Excellent 9/10 Reason for selling: Not using and taking up space Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: 2.5 years old, purchased from Big Picture People Narre Warren. Plenty of reviews online about this subwoofer. It has 2 x 12" drivers opposing each other to cancel out vibrations. The outcome is clear, low distortion and clean bass. The customisation for best in room response from the amp is second to none with low pass filtering, phase alignment, gain and when measuring with the PBK kit can give close to flat frequency response. This sub looks amazing especially in piano gloss black. Can ship however it does weigh 65kg's... I have all boxes and accessories for it. See specs and pics below. Specs: BalancedForce 212 System Frequency Response 18–120 Hz ±3dB; Anechoic through LFE effects input 20–120 Hz ±3dB; Low Pass Filter Frequencies 30 - 80Hz Phase 0°, 90°, 180°, 270° 0° 25Hz Level Control ±10dB at 25Hz ±10dB at 25Hz Power Control On, Auto (12V Trigger), Off On, Auto (12V Trigger), Off Room Correction Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) Ready (Sold Separately) Woofers Two 12" (30.5cm) cast-basket, highexcursion, aluminum cone with extended throw driver assembly, sealed non-resonant asymmetrical chamber format Amplifiers 2 x 850 watts (3,400 watts peak system total) 850 watts (1,700 watts peak) Inputs RCA: Left, Right and LFE. XLR: Left, Right and LFE. Speaker Level: Left and Right banana jacks. 12V Trigger: 3.5mm Mini USB (for PBK) USB (for crossover & firmware updates) RCA: Left, Right and LFE. XLR: Left, Right and LFE. Speaker Level: Left and Right banana jacks. 12V Trigger: 3.5mm Mini USB (for PBK) USB (for crossover & firmware updates) Output (RCA) Multi Out (for multi-sub connection) Multi Out (for multi-sub connection) Input Impedance RCA: 10,000 Ohms XLR: 15,000 Ohms per phase Speaker Level: 10,000 Ohms per phase (20,000 Ohms red to black) Power Draw Typical: 250 Watts Idle: 30 Watts Typical: 125 Watts Idle: 15 Watts Weight 140lbs. (63.5kg) each 96lbs. (43.5kg) each Overall Dimensions HxWxD ( 57.4cm x 57.4cm x 58.2cm) Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  2. I am curious on members views as to what the main difference between a 50 watt and 100 watt amp really is? Assuming they are the same amp but simply the watts were different, same speakers 200 wrms, would it be only volume or would there be other differences e.g.. more bass etc
  3. I have no idea yet where to take this, or where I will end up. I am going to end up with a good room either done by myself or done by an professional. At the moment I have started taking measurement with REW, which is confusing and satisfying at the same time. It is confusing as I haven't made much progress in taming the real problems but satisfying as I do discover things that I would not have picked up by ear, even knowing they possibly exist. To name a a few things that I discovered in the impulse graph, is that Martin Logan's have a very controlled mid-high frequency dispersion pattern with no early reflections on side walls, ceilings or floor. That the back wall early reflection point is producing the most early reflections, simply due to the fact I am sitting closer to this early reflection point than any other inside the room. In my case it also reflects the first front wall early reflection point, and di-pole wave early reflection point. Another eye opener is that opening the door in the back of the room is also eliminating a peak in the impulse graph. Confusing as I don't know yet why this is happening nearly 5ms after the first back wall early reflection point. Another thing that I discovered what kind of impact a window can have on the speaker graph. I have a window in the right wall of the room and not in the left and the right subwoofer and main speaker measure different in a specific region, which seem to be related to room nodes. Both interesting discoveries for a newby, but hardly useful. I rather avoid damping the early reflection points as they make the sound more lively. Another thing is that my Martin Logan's aren't very energetic in the HF. So damping the room isn't going to improve this, even when I might need to take a look at this, as the T30 time is above 0.5. Confused again! How am I going to lower the reflection decay time without killing all the HF. One thing is very clear, that my room needs a lot off Bass management. The thing that isn't completely clear to me is that if EQ-ing an SPL graph fall's in the same category as acoustics? a SPL graph is only a single point in the room, but room nodes exist through out the room. But I have tweaked the SPL graph into a flatter response, and room node peaks are contained and I can no longer hear them. But acoustic treatment is also handling decay time of reflections which is a different aspect than an SPL graph. Argh, confused again! Now after reading into what types of bass traps are available, things get difficult. As broadband absorbers are the first go to, but what if you don't want to dampen the room so much? 3 out of the 4 corners of my room aren't suitable for these type, as the front 2 corners are "needed" to keep my speakers "alive", and 1 corner in the back of the room has a door opening. A bulkhead trap all around the room would be a better option. Membrane traps would be the alternative option, but these can be hard to build. Then there is the anti mode DSP, which is basically a real live anti wave producer which requires an additional sub. But this comes down to a type of EQ again. Slowly making my way, but creating more confusion than progress at the time. To end with a few first questions. Can EQ be considered acoustics? Can you lower decay times using diffusion? Can you lower decay times by using EQ? Are there broadband bass traps that don't trap mid or high frequency? Can room nodes being EQ, or do you need traps?
  4. Item: Martin Logan Balanced Force 212 Subwoofer with Martin Logan PBK kit Location: Melbourne (Dandy ranges) Price: $4.2k ---> $3.8k (RRP $8k not including PBK kit) Item Condition: Excellent 9/10 Reason for selling: Not using and taking up space Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: 2 years old, purchased from Big Picture People Narre Warren. Plenty of reviews online about this subwoofer. It has 2 x 12" drivers opposing each other to cancel out vibrations. The outcome is clear, low distortion and clean bass. The customization for best in room response from the amp is second to none with low pass filtering, phase alignment, gain and when measuring with the PBK kit can give close to perfectly flat frequency response. This sub looks amazing especially in piano gloss black. Can ship however it does weigh 65kg's... I have all boxes and accessories for it. See specs and pics below. Specs: BalancedForce 212 System Frequency Response 18–120 Hz ±3dB; Anechoic through LFE effects input 20–120 Hz ±3dB; Low Pass Filter Frequencies 30 - 80Hz Phase 0°, 90°, 180°, 270° 0° 25Hz Level Control ±10dB at 25Hz ±10dB at 25Hz Power Control On, Auto (12V Trigger), Off On, Auto (12V Trigger), Off Room Correction Perfect Bass Kit (PBK) Ready (Sold Separately) Woofers Two 12" (30.5cm) cast-basket, highexcursion, aluminum cone with extended throw driver assembly, sealed non-resonant asymmetrical chamber format Amplifiers 2 x 850 watts (3,400 watts peak system total) 850 watts (1,700 watts peak) Inputs RCA: Left, Right and LFE. XLR: Left, Right and LFE. Speaker Level: Left and Right banana jacks. 12V Trigger: 3.5mm Mini USB (for PBK) USB (for crossover & firmware updates) RCA: Left, Right and LFE. XLR: Left, Right and LFE. Speaker Level: Left and Right banana jacks. 12V Trigger: 3.5mm Mini USB (for PBK) USB (for crossover & firmware updates) Output (RCA) Multi Out (for multi-sub connection) Multi Out (for multi-sub connection) Input Impedance RCA: 10,000 Ohms XLR: 15,000 Ohms per phase Speaker Level: 10,000 Ohms per phase (20,000 Ohms red to black) Power Draw Typical: 250 Watts Idle: 30 Watts Typical: 125 Watts Idle: 15 Watts Weight 140lbs. (63.5kg) each 96lbs. (43.5kg) each Overall Dimensions HxWxD ( 57.4cm x 57.4cm x 58.2cm) Pictures:
  5. Introduction The purpose of this post is to re-introduce a software tool that configures multiple subwoofers (subs) to produce smooth bass in a room and at the same time, make it even across sitting positions. A common misconception of adding subs for music is that they will artificially boost the bass. Well integrated subs help restore the missing bass caused by the room and brings the body back to music. The usual approach to managing bass was room treatment first, followed by careful placement of speakers & subs. Hardware and/or software, often expensive, were also used. This case study shows why MSO is a good cost-effective software option. What is MSO? Multi-Sub Optimiser (MSO) is a FREE software tool to optimize multiple sub woofers by integrating the subs with main speakers and improving the evenness of bass response across the whole listening area. MSO is especially useful in non-dedicated rooms where there is limited (or no?) room treatment and WAF considerations dictate sub size, number and placements. MSO also solves the difficult task of getting even bass across seating positions e.g. in multi row home theatres. MSO runs on a Windows laptop and requires a digital signal processor (DSP) and a calibrated microphone for use with REW (Room Equalisation Wizard) measurement software. There is some learning effort and time required to understand the concepts and set up the optimisation, but the results are worth it! There is excellent documentation and a good tutorial. The program was written by AndyC on AVS Forum (discussion thread hosts all discussions, support, bugs etc.). Andy @andyc56 specifically joined SNA to support MSO. Why MSO? – A Case Study 2 channel system was located in a non-dedicated open plan family room with high ceiling, hardwood floor on slab, blank wall in front, large windows with blinds on right, sliding glass doors with heavy curtains behind, left side opened to kitchen. Thick rug, cushions and sofas (with some sound absorbing foam underneath) completed the “room treatment”. Main speakers were a pair of active SGR CX3Bs (Mk 1) and the measurements showed how good the speakers were by themselves. However, the room muddied the bass and there was less body in the music. Listening positions were in a single row with the main listening position (MLP) in the centre. Right4 was better half’s favourite spot and depending on how far she stretched her legs on the sofa, Left2 became a regular listening spot! Left1 opened out to kitchen. The middle positions Left 2 and Right 3 graphs were offset -15 dB to improve readability. Similarly, outside positions Left 1 & Right4 offset -30 dB for readability. Subs were SVS SB13U and SB2000, located using “thirds criteria” in the front. The room had limited options for subs placement and WAF considerations further restricted things. The unintegrated subs (no adjustments to phasing, no eq, no cross over etc.) made things worse between 65 and 90 Hz. MSO used gains, delays, cross overs and PEQs to optimise the subs. Weightings for seating positions were Left1=0.5, Left2=0.9, MLP=1.0, Right4=0.8, Right5=0.5. A target curve was used to lift the bass and compensate for large and open room. Bass was even across 20 to 90 Hz and the dips were removed. More impressive was the evenness across listening positions, even in Left1. Right4’s improvement was under appreciated (everything was treated as muzak! SIGH!). The graphs showed that excellent results could be achieved with dual subs and MSO, but what about listening tests? Using a SoTM SMS-200 Ultra network player and a Gieseler Groß DAC, Diana Krall’s My Love (double bass), Bach’s Tocatta & Fugue (organ) and Fleetwood Mac’s Dreams (drums) showed how good the bass was. MSO brought the body back to the music and was probably the key enabler for further improving the 2 channel setup. Without MSO, I doubt I would have appreciated and enjoyed the Groß DAC as much. While this was 2 channel focused, MSO was also good for the home theatre. Using a different subs-only configuration, MSO took movies up a notch with additional slam on Anthem MRX 710 setup in same room. It made my favourite movie opening scene in Fellowship of the Rings superb. Was (and still am) no bass head, but understood why so many pursue this! SNA Reviews & Impressions There were at least 2 threads on MSO in the Room Acoustics, Construction and Design sub-forum. Below were the reviews and impressions posted by members (will update if there are more posts): baMarek 8 Sep 16 BradC 22 Nov 16 mcb 23 Apr 17 Snoopy8 5 Jun 17 Conclusion This case study has shown that MSO is a good cost-effective software option to overcome the bass issues brought about by the room. Hopefully, some here will try it for your setup. And more than happy to assist you in your journey.
  6. Item: Tesla ARO 942 bass drivers Location: Perth Price: $700 ono Item Condition: very good (for vintage gear) Reason for selling: Moving Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Highly sought after and rare, the first edition of the iconic vintage bass drivers from Tesla. Paper cone, huge magnet, very high sensitivity. I had many drivers including Altecs and nothing in my experience came close in terms of quality of bass. This is the driver Lampizator used in his reference system. They are 30 Ohm. I have never had problems driving them but it's worth noting. One has a slight tear on the suspension part seen on the photo but it does not affect sound and stays covered behind the metal grill (included in price). Each speaker weighs 10kg. Pictures:
  7. Howdy all, Happy New Year! I thought I'd start a little side topic based on my movie watching over the Christmas break. I bought a nice little sub as self-given present, and then went on a... somewhat excessive (according to my better half) quest to find some material (mostly movies) that would test it out.. along with the other speakers in my home theatre. Now, you'd think in this age, that there are many fine movies that test out a subwoofer. But boy was I struggling a bit to find something that really "reaches deep", for more than a few moments, a scene, or even at all! So I "went to the all-high oracle of knowledge (google) for other people's suggestions. Many people suggested movies far too numerous to mention here. But after taking some of their advice, I'll outline what I watched: Jurassic Park is a classic, for the stomping of the T-Rex... ok, that has it's bassy moments. Star Wars.... (anything really) but a special mention goes to Ep II for the seismic charges. (The first thing I tested the sub on). U571 (Old now, but good atmospherics). House of Flying Daggers. (The drum scene is pretty good for bass, pity about the story). Pacific Rim... yes, there's some VERY nice bass here. Master & Commander. (I only have the DVD, but the cannons certainly have some punch to them). Thor I & II (Yep those are good ones) The Avengers... Good Bass. Lots of crunch. Captain America I & II. Some nice bass in all that.. but nothing really seems to stand out in my mind. Super 8.... yes... that was a train crashing in my home.... To my neighbourhood.... I'm sorry the sound disturbed you, but truth be told, I'm not sorry I did it! :~) Brave... I know, I was shocked too! Great atmospherics for the overall sound system too! Lord of the Rings trilogy... with special mention of the battle scenes in the Two Towers, and Return of the King. Good bass with the War Oliphants (Elephants) collapsing, and the catapaulted rocks. Letters from Iwo Jima. As far as the sounds of warfare can be considered "Nice". The Dark Knight... that's a fair whack of bass! The Matrix movies have some nice moments, especially with the EMP pulse and many fight scenes. Tropic Thunder (Please forgive my watching of Ben Stiller) but the explosion in the beginning is very cool. The latest Star Trek movies. Aside from the sound being great, I just couldn't help but think back to "Heroes" and muse "Why Sylar, your ears have grown so pointy!". However, for SHEER DEPTH, DURATION, AND IMPACT.... MY PERSONAL WINNER IS: The latest (2014) reboot of the Godzilla movie. A 12" sub is good... a 15" or bigger would be better! (Or multiple subs for a noticeable improvement). There's so much bass! Power plants collapsing, planes crashing, giant creatures fighting like Pacific Rim, but a bit bassier (yes, I know I didn't think that was possible) Go watch it, with the sound cranked, and you'll understand why! I'd love to hear what movies get your fillings rattled out! Also, what movies do you think has the most immersive sound? Love to hear your thoughts! Hamish.
  8. Item: Richard Allen bass drivers Location: Canberra Price: $200 Item Condition: great Reason for selling: no longer needed Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: I can post for $20. I bought these years ago thinking they were full range drivers- there are lots of jerks on eBay selling them as that, so not needed Pictures:
  9. Item: Richard Allen bass drivers Location: Canberra Price: $200 Item Condition: great Reason for selling: no longer needed Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: I can post for $20. I bought these years ago thinking they were full range drivers- there are lots of jerks on eBay selling them as that, so not needed Pictures:
  10. Item: Aura Sound 1808 with brand new TC Sounds Pro5100 Baskets Location: Sale Victoria 3850 Price: $950 Item Condition: As new Reason for selling: Surplus Payment Method: Pickup, cash, bank transfer. Extra Info: Original Aura 1808 neo underhung motors fitted with brand new TC sounds replacement baskets essentially creating what TC called the Pro5100. These are no longer available and were about $1500 each when last in production. Specs here. I still have the original Aura baskets which come in the deal if you want them. One is still in good operating condition and the other has a split surround and open circuit voice coil. A working original 1808 basket in itself is serious unobtanium! I purchased the replacement baskets around 6 years ago when I noticed the split starting in one of the originals but it kept on going until only last year! That whole system has now been replaced with a new horn loaded design so I have no further use for these monsters. With over 60mm peak to peak excursion and high relative efficiency on of these will give you similar output to that of a serious dual 18 cabinet. The new baskets are dual VC and can handle much more power than the original 1808. The baskets are BRAND NEW and were installed and tested in cabinets only last week. Plenty of info on the net about these. I'll ship anywhere at your expense. Pictures:
  11. Item: Fernandes Gravity 5-String Electric BassLocation: St Kilda VIC 3182Price: $580Item Condition: ExcellentReason for selling: Not being used Payment Method: Pickup - CashExtra Info: I have a beautiful black Fernandes Gravity 5X 5-String Electric Bass in pristine condition. Only used a few times at home, never been outside. Smoke-free and pet-free home, no kids. Manufacturer's product page: http://www.fernandesguitars.com/gravity/gravity-5-x.html Robert Trujillo from Metallica used Gravity 5 bass in his early days - http://www.deadonetrading.com/RobertTrujilloEquipment.html Currently for sale on ebay for $710 + $180 postage from Japan. Pick up only from St Kilda 3182. PM me for more photos.
  12. I have a beautiful black Fernandes Gravity 5X 5-String Electric Bass in pristine condition. Only used a few times at home, never been outside. Smoke-free and pet-free home, no kids. Manufacturer's product page: http://www.fernandesguitars.com/gravity/gravity-5-x.html Robert Trujillo from Metallica used Gravity 5 bass in his early days - http://www.deadonetrading.com/RobertTrujilloEquipment.html Currently for sale on ebay for $710 + $180 postage from Japan. Pick up only from St Kilda 3182.
  13. I have a beautiful black Fernandes Gravity 5X 5-String Electric Bass in pristine condition. Only used a few times at home, never been outside. Smoke-free and pet-free home, no kids. Manufacturer's product page: http://www.fernandesguitars.com/gravity/gravity-5-x.html Robert Trujillo from Metallica used Gravity 5 bass in his early days - http://www.deadonetrading.com/RobertTrujilloEquipment.html Currently for sale on ebay for $710 + $180 postage from Japan. Pick up only from St Kilda 3182.
  14. Hi guys, I deliberately said science and the real world, not science vs the real world, as some popular views based on reasonable science seem to be less valid based on my own measurements, and I'd like to better understand why that is...I consider it vastly more likely that considerations such as boundary rigidity, or possibly the way I've taken the measurements, is the reason my measurements differ from the theory. I'll say up front that I haven't found good references for the "popular views based on reasonable science" I mentioned above. I'd be keen if others could find decent references that support or refute my understanding: in an unsealed room, the lowest bass that can be supported in that room is the 1/2 the lowest wavelenth = the longest room dimension In a sealed room, lower bass can be supported (within the "pressure" zone), provided the speakers are able to "pressurise" the room (ie sealed or infinite baffle speakers) My problem is I did a bunch of measurements in my room today that didn't align with the above. My room is 4.2 x 3.7 x 2.03m - so based on the 1/2 wavelength rule it should support bass down to 41Hz only. The windows seal quite well, but the door isn't sealed well at all. All measurements were done with the mic at the listening position and never moved. The battery died in my SPL meter, so the REW measurements were done without SPL calibration, but I used my Earthworks M23 mike with the calibration file loaded into REW. Soundcard and pre-amp volume levels were kept the same throughout all measurements. Some measurements have EQ tweaked as per the descriptions. Results: There was minimal difference in my measurements between the door/windows being open vs the door/windows being closed. The sealed room measurements were a bit smoother - peaks and dips a little less pronounced, but low bass response was almost identical. Maybe this would change if the door (and entire room) was better sealed - maybe purpose built rooms could be very well sealed, but my takeout is that "typical" rooms are unlikely to be well sealed, and the "pressure" zone (where sealed and IB speakers can "pump" the pressure up and down in a room) is a rare case. Interestingly I found some integration issues between my sub and mains causing some suckout at approx 25Hz - which will require further investigation outside of the subject of this post. The suckout got way worse when I added some EQ boost at 20Hz (DEQX applies the same EQ across all outputs - freq dependent). From the perspective of this thread, seeing a deep null at 25Hz implies (to me) that the room is still "doing stuff" below its theoretical cutoff point of 41 Hz. Once I saw the suckout, and seeing it got worse with EQ, I started measuring only the sub with the mains muted. Measuring only the sub, it was clear that the 1/2 wavelength rule doesn't apply in my room, most likely due to transmission through the walls/ceiling. Measuring open doors/windows vs closed made bugger all difference. The walls aren't gyprock, but are thinner and stiffer - I've always thought they were asbestos based, but others reckon they're too new - possibly just waterproof cement sheeting of some type. Single studded and the same sheet on the inside and outside, no insulation between. Ceiling is the same, but with floorboards above that. 2/3 of the floor is concrete, 1/3 timber on joists (built on a hill). I did a bunch of different measurements, including removing the safety 20Hz hi-pass from the tapped horn, and adding 15dB of EQ at 15Hz (no drivers were hurt during this experiment - I'd run a test with my fingers on the tapped horn driver to see how much excursion there was before running the test again to get the mike measurement). . Overall conclusions: there were subtle/minor difference between the doors/windows open vs closed - you certainly couldn't conclude that there was superior bass with everything as sealed as I could get it I could easily achieve much lower bass than the 1/2 wavelength theory would suggest, and given there was basically no difference between windows/doors open vs closed, my room never enters the "pressure" zone. This implies (to me), that the low bass is being transmitted through the walls/ceiling virtually un-impeded (ie almost none is reflected), so that in lightweight constructed rooms (eg Gyprock ), the 1/2 wavelength theory does not apply (double brick/besser block/brick veneer will likely be very different) Having a decent sub in a very small room, I'd doubted the 1/2 wavelength theory for a while, but I've finally got around to testing it. The science likely applies perfectly in a reflective room (heavy/rigid walls), but having done some measurements in my lightweight constructed room, the theory appears not to apply at all. cheers Mike -
  15. I have Magnepan 1.7. I love them and don't have any intention of going back to boxes. But — yeh, yeh, I know — I would like a bit more bass. I was an unbeliever when it came to subwoofers. They invariably seem to clog up clarity and space with an amorphous bass sludge — and as I prize these qualities I've refused to consider a sub. Okay, I'm an ignorant fool. An hour is a long time in hi fi and @@andyr's magnificent set up has convinced me that subs can not only be quite acceptable but bl@@dy wonderful. So, I'm after a simple solution: a good musical sub (preferably used) that will give me clean bass depth (it doesnt have to be bottomless) without detracting from the Maggies tight rhythmic qualities or magic transparency. Not interested in crashing planes, colliding trains or exploding bombs. For music only — all kinds of stuff: Monteverdi, Purcell, Coltrane, Davis, Mingus, radiohead, Indian & middle east — but not pop or metal. I'm in a smallish room: 3.3 metres x 4.3 metres, 3 metre ceilings. Any suggestions? @@djb
  16. Hi, I have a Paradigm Ultracube 12 + Perfect Base Kit -1 for sale. Purchased brand-new from Eastwood Hifi around August 2015 so about or just under 1 year's old. Took it out of a box and been sitting in a corner unmoved so not a single scratch on it. Pretty good sub but I think it's time for an upgrade. Retail is $2,148 for both. I can do both for $900. I threw the box away but has all the manuals etc. Pick up or I can deliver around the metro Brisbane area (if not too far). Didn't have time to post a picture but since it's like new condition, there's really no need. Pls ask if you have any questions. Thanks.
  17. My listening room is quite small 3.8m x 3.5m x 2.4m high and thus close to square. However behind the seating position is a back 'wall' that is all built-in wardrobes with fairly thin hollow doors. The dimensions without the doors would make the room 4.4 x 3.5 which are better ratios acoustically re: low frequencies. One option is to remove the doors (the result would be a bit untidy) however I am wondering about the ability of bass frequencies to pass through these doors. So my question is whether some or all of the low frequencies pass through the doors and 'see' the room as 4.4 x 3.5? If not am I better off removing them? I sit 2m from the speakers which are about 1.5m out from the from wall with about 0.4m behind me to the doors. I'm using quite a bit of homemade room treatment and things are sounding pretty good. Cheers
  18. So, I was talking to an acoustic consultant today, sort of a first step in getting an idea on what I will need to do in order to integrate the new speakers into the new room. It is not something that I have thought too much about, I sorta figured if I had enough space that I could get them to integrate well. This guy had my room details and speaker details and basically came to the conclusion that it would be impossible to get good bass in my room because my proposed bass solutions were too extreme for the room size and would emit "too much energy" and cause all kinds of room mode problems. He estimated a +28dB peak in the frequency response at 40Hz and +18dB at 80Hz and a few others I cannot remember. The basic message from this fellow was to do with the size of the drivers used for the bass frequencies: they were too big for the room and would give off too much energy and would be really, really difficult to control. I am proposing 8 x 10" drivers a side to handle 20Hz - 100Hz. My design thoughts here are large surface area, small excursion, high efficiency (I only have 12W to drive them with). He said one 10" a side would be too big for my room which measures 6m x 4.3m and that he could not get rid of enough energy in there to flatten the frequency response. Which leads me to my question. My understanding of acoustics is obviously different to the consultants, and I would have thought he knew better than me given that has been his job for 30+ years, but isn't the amount of sound energy (pressure) a speaker puts into the room at a specific frequency tied to both cone surface area and excursion? Aren't 8 x 10" drivers moving say 1mm putting out about the same energy out as 1 x 10" driver moving 8mm? Am I missing something? Afterall it is Friday and my brain is fried! Cheers, Anthony
  19. Hey guys, I don't know if this is the right category for my question but if it isnt please move it, Everyday on my way to school I like to listen to my music out loud with my friends, I used to do it with my phone but it ends up hard to hear especially with traffic and such, I made a pair of logitech ls11 speakers portable by powering them off batteries and putting them in a cardboard box, They were alright volume(About as loud as my phone) and had a bit more quality than my phone, But they ran out of batteries within an hour of use and that was getting inefficient and expensive. So i've decided I want to undertake a project where i'm going to use a 12v sealed lead acid battery and use it to power some speakers and a sub. So heres what I need. *Speaker, Preferably a full range car speaker of some sort *Subwoofer, Needs to provide good bass at loud volumes *LOUD, Most important bit, Needs to be quite loud that can be heard easily over traffice with good quality and bass *Portable, Needs to last for atleast 2-3 hours a day and be light. * Size, Needs to fit in my schoolbag with a bit of room to spare. *Rechargeble *Enclosure for all the speakers This is my schoolbag, It's a Nike one its not too small but its not very big eitherhttp://sportitemsstore.com/product/nike-backpack-bag-sand-blue-athletic-school-gym-travel-laptop-bags-ba4378-414/ I can build my own enclosure. So does anyone have any tips or anything? I was thinking 4 inch car speakers and a 6 inch sub? It needs to be around $100-120 And available in Australia Cheers
  20. Hola Amigos. I've had my speaker system now for around a year and a half. It's my first foray into "proper" hifi and as such, my emphasis when planning, purchasing and setting up was on lounge-room home theater. I have absolutely loved it thus far, I make full use of it every weekend with a movie or two (always at full noise of course), and every night as normal use while watching TV. Months ago, I invested in a Turntable, Phono Stage and have been collecting vinyl since. The phono connects to my Yamaha Aventage A710, and as my speaker setup through the Yamy has my fronts set as 'small' and xover at 60hz, I always just left it as is for movies. The reason for this thread, is that I only listen to music in Straight, which utalises the use of the subwoofer and the front floor standers. I've always felt that my floorstanders lacked bass, but the sub more than made up for them. However, with music, I always felt there was something missing. I felt myself straining and longing for more mid-low "punch" and thump. Sure, the sub produces fast, fantastic and clear low end bass, almost effortlessly, more than enough for my taste, but I still couldn't help feeling something was missing during music, and if I turned the sub off (power), most bass was lost. A couple of weeks ago, I changed the settings on the amp to accept the floorstanders as Large, and Do Not Use for the sub. I dropped XX by The XX onto the platter, lowered the arm and was instantly greeted by the sound I'd been searching for. It was a 'drop-to-your-knees-and-wave-your-hands-in-the-air' moment for me. I sat back and enjoyed a full range of frequencies delivered by my left and right channels alone. I can't believe how much bass they produce without the sub and more importantly, how low they go. I never knew a 10" driver in a floorstander can vibrate my back through the couch with the sub off. Suffice to say, all my music listening is now L/R only. Now, I want more from my music, in particular, from the power source. And therein lies the problem; I still watch movies, and so now I have to go into settings and change the configuration every time I want to play music, or watch a bluray/tv. This is annoying, and got me thinking. I know I can change my receiver to accept front speaker passthrough and run a dedicated 2 channel amp through, but that means I have to get a new receiver as well as a new amp. In the future, we'd like to build our next home and part of the plan is to build a dedicated theater room, and have a seperate 2 channel system, but for now, how do you think this will work?: My current floorstanders' cable runs to a terminal in the wall (see crap phone photo below), fed to the reciever in the front left corner of the room (the only place for it). What if I kept that configuration as is, bought a dedicated 2 channel amp, and placed it and the turntable between the speakers as they are, and ran another set of speaker cables to my speakers directly. I would have both the cables from the receiver, AND the decicated 2 chan setup connected to the speakers at the same time, however, only one would be on/playing at any one time, of course. The cable from the receiver plugs into the speakers via banana plugs, the cable from the 2chan amp would connect to the same speaker terminal via spades. I would be able to keep all my settings on the receiver for tv and movies, then turn the receiver off, turn on the tt and 2chan amp and play some music at a much higher quality than my receiver will ever dream of producing. Is this even feasable? Has anyone done this before? If so, what was the outcome? Does it have any implications for the receiver or would it not even matter as long as the receiver is not sending a signal? Am I dreaming? If so, do I have any other options? Sorry for the long post... Kind regards, Elyas
  21. Just came across this web page that has outlined a Low frequency multi faceted corner horn design I was thinking of @@atilsley @@henry218 when I came across this design as they are always looking for other ways to build a cabinet http://www.spherovox.com/Corner_Folded_Horn_Designs.php
  22. I read previously that changing the rectifier valve on the Supratek power supply unit can make significant changes in sound quality. In particular, a NOS Bendix 6106 will tighten up the bass. In my case, the standard rectifier and another I tried ( NOS Mullard EZ34) provided deep bass, but it was not as tight as I would like. Well the difference with the Bendix 6106 is profound, in that the bass is as tight as one could hope for ( as tight as a decent solid state setup - and I am using all valves). I have the Supratek Cabernet Dual, and even dialling up the separate bass feed ( I use 6H30's for bass and 101d's for mid-high frequencies through 4 monoblock power amps), the bass became more pronounced but still very tight. So before fiddling with power amps and speakers to optimise bass response, the culprit could well be the choice of rectifier valve in the Supratek preamp.
  23. Item: Philips Fidelio S2 IEM - Sold Location: Melbourne, Victoria Price: $99 Item Condition: Excellent, Rarely Used Reason for selling: Seldom used. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Packed in original box with all tips. Sounds great. Large driver results in a very full impact bass like having a subwoofer in your ear. Not like the Beats earphones where the bass can overpower the other frequencies. The treble and mids are still very present but when it goes for a bass hit. It hits real nice. Received great reviews. One of the cons was meant to be the price. At this price though, it's all smooth sailing. Reviews: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/philips-fidelio-s1-and-s2-ear-headphones http://www.avforums.com/review/philips-fidelio-s2-earphone-review.9439 http://www.trustedreviews.com/philips-fidelio-s2_Headphones_review Pictures: Coming soon.
  24. Item: Fred RA1 Grado-Based Desktop Headphone Amplifier with Smooth Gradually Adjustable Bass Boost - Newer 24v Version Location: Melbourne, Victoria Price: $49 Item Condition: Excellent, Rarely Used Reason for selling: Seldom used. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Adapter included. The bass boost is very nice for bassheads and the amp is excellent value for money. Product Link: http://fredsamplifiers.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_18&products_id=18 Pictures: Coming soon.
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