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Further Information: Superb SQ ! One of my top fav jazz album for all time. https://www.discogs.com/sell/release/5039954 Please PM me.

Further information: Lovan brand 4 shelves hifi rack. Have been using until recently I bought new racks. Stick on logo disappeared. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi all, I am interested in Denon and Marantz new Hi-Fi products, nice to meet you all

Item: NuForce P9 Preamplifier Special Edition "Rose Copper" Condition: Used, 8/10 Price: $1800 Still Available New $4199 approx.. Location: Kingaroy, QLD Reason For Selling: Swapping to Consonance Linear 1 (Tubes); Too Much Gear!! Payment: Cash on Pickup, Paypal Extra Info: Item is approximately 3 Years old, Purchased 2nd hand through Tony Moore (Ambience Loudspeakers Manufacturer). Would give the unit itself a 9/10, however the original box was damaged while packed away in the shed during the floods early this year.. Everything Works perfectly all original hardware and literature supplied, Remote supplied and in near on immaculate condition (See Photos) to be well packed, and can be posted anywhere in AUS at buyers expense. Also please note the only 2 marks are shown the same where you can see me pointing at them or not, I just thought Id show perspective of their relative size... Auditions Welcome in Kingaroy. https://www.nuforce.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&layout=item&id=316&Itemid=392/index.php%C2'>

Hello all, Over the last two or three weeks my system has never sounded better. It's rich and full and (IMO) very musically communicative. It's all solid state with an sacd player doubling as dac to a Mac mini, with an integrated amp, stand mounts and sub. All that I can think of that I've done differently is that I've left everything powered up (not on standby) for the last month or so. How could this make such a difference? The bass is much more authoritative, the mids smoother and the tops are extended but silky. Gut feeling is it's 20% (arbitrary figure, but a good indication) better than it's been previously. I'm not complaining, I'm just baffled that leaving it all on could make this difference but that's the only change I've made. Cheers, Craig.

great to be here

I am a lover of the Sony ES Serie of the 90th and 2000nd version, prefer the gold finish. I have an amplifier SCD-player MD-player and more

Item: Pair Ref9V3SE Monoblocks and Matching P-9 Preamp in Copper Orange Colour Location: Kingaroy QLD Price: $5000 Including Postage Australia-Wide Item Condition: Excellent, One tiny Scratch on One Piece of the Pre-amp. Reason For Selling: Replacing With the 7Channel Model; Need the money for a Bike. Payment: Paypal, COD or Cash on Pick-up (Preferred so you can see the units in person before purchase) Extra Info: Original Amp Boards from Before Upgrades supplied, Remote and all Power/Control Leads. Approx 3-3 1/2 Years old. Gutted to see them go, hope they go to a good home!! RCA and True Balanced XLR on Monoblocks. I Apologise for the bad light in photos, they are perfectly matching in colour etc, Identical size as well for stacking. I just chose not to so I could go cheap on leads by putting them a metre or so closer to speakers!! ^_^

Item: Two Bryston 7B SST2 mono amplifiers plus Bryston BP26 pre-amplifier with MPS2 power supply Location: Castle Hill Price: $10,000 Item Condition: Exellent Payment Method: Card, Cash or EFT Extra Info: the client owned this system for 8 months and upgraded to a Chord reference system. Pictures:

Hi all This is my first post here and would be grateful if someone could please help me out. I recently acquired a vintage Sharp Optonica from Germany and am wanting to connect it to my Sonos speaker but I'm not even sure if it's possible. The optonica has a fat 8 pin connector which I assume would plug straight into some regular old speakers? However I do not have the room for speakers so it would be great if I could buy some type of adapter which I could then plug into my Sonos. I have attached some photos of the connector on the optonica and the sonos. If anyone could tell me what I need to purchase to make this work that would be great. Cheers!

Some would say it is just a digital cable and end of the day, it delivers 1 and 0 so all are the same. The others would say expensive ones sound much better. I don’t go extreme in either way. For me, for hi-fi audio, this is the matter of system dependency. That means, pick/make a right one for your system. Cost is not the reference point for better sound. Below is my personal view on the USB cable and Async USB Audio. 1/Async USB is better than Spdif: If a DAC supports Async USB, USB should be a go. At DAC side, data from USB is converted to I2S and goes to DAC chip. This is the simplest and shorted path. 2/ Clock: for Aysnc USB, clock in the DAC drives so source clock is not important, to me. Source data jitter and jitter caused by USB cables are not a really problem for Async USB 3/1 and 0: data reaches USB interface of the DACs won’t have bit error. 4/Noise: lots of people talking about EMI, common mode noise on the data line (D+ and D-) and on power lines (+5V and Ground). For me, it is true. It is important factor to be addressed for precision audio, I believe. So coming to precision audio via USB, it is not simply about 1 and 0. In hifi audio, it is also about noise elimination. 5/Good USB cables: key thing is the good noise shielding. Some very expensive cables may be claimed the following facts and more: - Low jitter: Async USB DAC does not need this - Good shielding: OK - Good connectors contact: OK - Silver wire, etc.: This may reduce a bit of resistor on the cables in theory but does it worth the money? For me, it is a big NO. - Some claim short USB cables are not good; the ideal length has to be 1.1 m to 1.5 m. This is for me simply untrue and pointless. The shorter, the better. - Some mention electron bounce, skin effect, jump stand. For me, all of these are just simply snake-oil. Skin effect is not in audio frequency range. The other two are false theories. So it is all about contact and shielding. Why pay money on expensive cables for other “specs/features� 6/ Why noise is a concern Good DACs clean out as much noise in the power lines and data lines as possible before passing them to DAC chip and other electronics components. Good DACs should have good isolation. Noise will affect electronic components, especially the DAC chip and clock. It results in no good analogue out from the DAC. In reality, one cannot rely on how DACs are implemented only. So there is a need of good USB cables and good sources with less noise. 7/ What should buy to have good sound quality For me, knowing the gears well will save money. For instance, in my case, my DAC requires 5V line and Ground line from source via USB cable to work with the source. The USB part of my DAC has isolation. The incoming USB ground line is not connected to the DAC ground. 8/ Enhance the performance of my USB audio. Base on the above mentioned facts, expensive USB cables are not for me. As said, my DAC has quite good Async USB implementation but it requires 5V from USB cable. Below are notes for my DAC: - Isolation - Async USB 2.0 - USB 5V and ground lines are needed. Not so sure if this 5V is used to feed the USB part or both the USB part and the USB clocking out part. Steps to enhance my Audio USB application: - Made a music server with Linear PSU with many stages of noise filter (http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/85328-a-diy-high-quality-hifi-music-server/) - Use Sotm USB Pci card (for cleaner USB output) - Modify Sotm card. o Replace the cheap 2 USB ports by high quality 2.0 USB ports with EMI and common mode filter on both signal and power o Replace all the electrolytic capacitors with the quality, low ESR ones o Replace film capacitors by high quality, high stable Vishay Sprague general purpose polyester capacitors o Make a DIY USB cable: make a fork cable (strange idea? I strongly believe Light Harmonic LightSpeed USB Audio Cable cannot be better than this cable) from 2 standard USB cables. One branch carries power lines (+5V and GRN) ; another carries signal lines (V+ and V-). So 1 port on SOTM USB PCI card provides signal lines (V+ and V-) and the other port provides power (+5V) and ground. Ferrite beads are used for power lines (the best for this is BNX-002 from Murata. I have ordered it and wait for it to come and replace these Ferrite.) Shielding has 2 parts to eliminate ground loop – the part next to the DAC is connected DAC ground only and the part next to source is connected to source ground only. 9/ About the DIY cable: It does not look very beautiful but hifi audio is not about the looks. It has the phrase ‘Powerful Fresh Breath†on it (mints can) . Beauty is only skin deep. For my particular system and setup, this DIY USB cable gives me the best improvement I have ever experienced so far (including by purchases gears and DIY gears). Overall, music is clearer, calm and more 3D but what really amazes me the most is the top end. It is extended further and much stronger but still very musical. I can now hear the sounds I have never heard before with my music collection. The bass goes deeper as well but it has been improved by others already so it is not as significant as the top end. I can listen again to Michael Buble music, Anne Bisson, Angus and Julia and more for hours with joys and no tiredness. The Audioquest USB cable is now retired well. Perhaps post in this stereo.net for sale If somebody makes fork USB cables and sell after this, I will hate them very much

Hi guys. I need your help! I have recently spent a lot of my time converting my dads and my CD collection to FLAC's to be able to use on my high res media player FiiO X1. Now my music tastes are extremely diverse and I don't just listen to one band or genre, so buying CD's can be quite costly as im sure we all know as well as 90% of the time I only like a handful of songs on a 12-15 song album. Is there sites online where I would be able to download high quality FLAC's free (excluding pirate bay because its just painful) or pay for them in AUD?