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BrownMagic

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Everything posted by BrownMagic

  1. I have been looking out to upgrade my streamer as well and did not want to pay for Roon or settle of spotty 3rd party apps that streamers come with. Tidal Connect has been on my wish list for a long time. The following companies will be supporting Tidal Connect. Please add to this list if you come across more devices that support Tidal Connect. This will help other FMs who are looking for native tidal app supported devices. 1) BluOS - Blusound, NAD Masters, Dali Actives 2) KEF LS50 Meta Wireless II 3) Monitor Audio IMS 4 (Running BluOS) 4) Naim Streamers and Uniti S
  2. Ok my bad. I didn't realise this thread was intended for Raspberry Pi users.
  3. @Topman_Chief - Can you please change the topic of this thread to "Tidal Connect Supported Devices" I have been looking out to upgrade my streamer as well and did not want to pay for Roon or settle of spotty 3rd party apps that streamers come with. Tidal Connect has been on my wish list for a long time. The following companies will be supporting Tidal Connect. 1) BluOS devices from NAD and Dali 2) KEF LS50 Meta Wireless II 3) Monitor Audio IMS 4 (Running BluOS) 4) Naim Streamers and Uniti Series - This is due in 2021 via a firmware update, I w
  4. If Tidal is your main source of music, the blusound node 2i should be the better choice. The Bluos is just a superior platform.
  5. I was considering the C658 as a replacement to my Elac Discovery. I chose the Disco over the Node2i based on A/B. But if the C658 is only a slight step up from the node 2i then maybe the $ has gone more to the preamp, phono and Dirac? Can anyone share a compare between Node 2i and The C658 purely on Sonics without Dirac?
  6. Wonder why this beast has not got a dedicated review yet.
  7. This is a game changer for Tidal. https://www.stereonet.co.uk/news/tidal-connect-launches-on-bluos
  8. If you can, carry your speakers to the dealers and then try them out. I did that with my kefs and then decided that the Kef actives were the better way to go. They need a lot of power. A lot. I had best results with a wyred4sound m-pre and monos and also a Peachtree Nova 300. Not sure if they will be under your price range. Rogue Sphinx is also a very good match. A buddy of mine is raving about his LS50s and Parasound Classic 200 integrated. Do not pair them with a forward sounding amp. It can get extremely fatiguing.
  9. I choose the LM-150IA over the LM-805IA. Both are great amps and cost the same. It would boil down to your speakers. I started my tube journey with an LM-88IA. Do share your update once you buy. I have documented my journey in my post. Do check it out.
  10. Hello David - Yes, I agree with your experience. There are many factors I had to take into account before deciding on the LM150 compared to the 300b based LM805IA. In an ideal world, I would have both amps driving two different speakers but it is a never ending game! I am considering setting up a second setup which is just completely different to what I have in the main rig. Ideally something that is forgiving of poor recordings! Something not meant for critical listening. I am most defintely planning on changing the small tubes and that has been the advice by most LM owners as well. Ive
  11. Thanks Stump! Yes, Robert is great with tubes and he is a DIYer. He offers his customers the option to get the "Singapore Edition" which basically is a souped up stock LM model. He changes the power sockets to Furutech, He also changes some caps and resistors. The midrange tends to be better compared to stock. I believe he exports some very large horns to Australia as well.
  12. Congratulations. The Sprout 100 is a slice of high end at a reasonable price. If you have not noticed it already, the Sprout tends to be on the cold side of neutral and hence it would serve you best with a laid back set of speakers. With regards to the room being lively, there is only so much you can do but I have had good success with rugs and curtains. My experience with B&W says they sound best with warm gear. They are very finicky with source which they should be like any high end speaker. I am not sure what your budget is, but looking at your room, I feel they will need a mid si
  13. I suggested that the OP spend 10% on non core which is not your front end and speakers. I did not say you need to spend 10% on just cables. I have mentioned cabling, isolation, power etc. Also the OP is obviously not playing at the same level as your so it would be helpful to be objective here. You have a great rig btw. Cheers
  14. Dave - You need to take into context what I wrote in its entirety. Not just cables. I said, 10% of system building budget goes to cables, isolation, power etc which are non core components. There are no hard and fast rules here for sure. I am just sharing my school of thought. Also with regards to good quality cables, there are good quality cables at every price point. And if you are inferring that the 200 dollar cable is going to give the same sonic results no matter which system it is deployed in, then this is a diff debate all together 🙂 But if you are saying that one does not n
  15. In my opinion 10% of the total cost of the system should be allotted for cabling and isolation and power. How you spend it is up to you. Also, higher the cost of a cable does not translate to better sound. Do diff cables sound different? For sure they do. Also, from my experience, getting to cables should be the last part of the system. 70% of what you hear is your room and your speakers. 20% will be your front end (source/electronics/amps), the 10% will be your cable, isolation, etc etc so get to the cables only once you have done your best in the 90%. I also feel th
  16. 12AX7 Amperex Holland OEM labels, 1960s vintage, $180.00 per matched pair Or top end Brimar UK military CV4035 “flying lead” 9 pin modified 12AX7 $300.00 per pair 12AU7 Mullard UK made OEM label $70.00 USD. Above was the advice I got from Brent Jesse of audio tubes when I had asked him a similar question. Insured Shipping to Australia will be 40 Usd
  17. In my experience, McIntosh gear work very well with speakers which are more forward. I have heard great pairings with Kef, B&W and Focal. Metallic Tweeters can be bright so Mcintosh helps a lot. The MA352 is something I have not heard but I have heard the MA252 and I found them to be lacking when it came to controlling the Bass with my speakers (Elac Adante). I just read about the ARC, and they have also tried it with an SF speaker and have good results hence the generalisation made by me that ARC and SF are usually a good match.. The reviewer does say that it might be straine
  18. The Olympica is a very relaxed speaker much like most SF speakers. ARC is a natural match since 1) They are under the same group (so is Mcintosh but not a good match) 2) ARC sounds a lot more neutral than traditional tube sounding gear. Luxman solid state pairs very well with SF. PrimaLuna also could be a good match depending on which tubes you use. You might also want to look at Line Magnetic LM-150ia. I have these and imho they are damn good for the money. There are lots of neutral/forward amps which will be a good pairing with SF gear. What is your budget? Arc and PL are not in th
  19. The Arcam SA30 Is a fine amp and it has Dirac. The arcam app is quite crappy but it was Chromecast audio and roon. What streaming service do you use? The amp is on the warm side of neutral and has enough grunt. My mate runs them with a pair of Elac Carinas and the synergy is great. We haggled and got the amp for 3k Singapore dollars. If you are able to get this for around the same price, it’s a much better deal. The dealer also deals with Roksan so we did compare. The Musical Fidelity amps are very good too. They sound a lot like Naim amps for a lot less money.
  20. I have had the CX80 which sounds the same as the CX60. It was paired to a Focal Aria 926. It was a good match. The CX60 is not a laid back amplifier so you should take care to pair it with a speaker which is on the warmer side of neutral. I am not sure how you would describe your speaker as I don’t have any experience about it. I have auditioned the rotel a few times and I always found the rotel sound to be thin and detailed. It was not something I liked. You should also consider the Marantz PM6006 which should be in the same price range. Also has a phono. A newer version has l
  21. The Accuphase E800 has a damping factor of 1000 which is probably the highest among any integrated that is available today so it will have a very good grip on your speakers. The question that you need to ask is if you want to spend that much coin because the Accuphase E800 is probably an end game amp which should be looked at holistically. The Luxman 509x in my opinion might be a very good match for your speaker and it costs a lot less than the Accuphase. I am not sure about the cost of these gears used in Europe. Cant go wrong with most of the names you have mentioned once you understand thei
  22. Based on some reading, I get the sense that your speakers have a better synergy with amps that are on the warmer side of neutral. Parasound as someone mentioned is a warm sounding amp and hence seems to be a good match. You should also add Accuphase Class A amps. E650/E800 if they are within your budget. The T+A is also a phenomenal amp but very revealing.
  23. My findings are well in line with yours with regards to the LM-88IA. They are a damn good amp for the money and will do well if you have a fairly easy speaker to drive which you have noticed with your Tannoys and Cam's Zu Speakers. The LM150IA would be a much better match with the likes of your Magicos and Harbeths. I look forward to your Tube Rolling journey with the LM150IA as I am told that the stock small tubes are not really the best and should only be used for breaking the amp in. Cheers
  24. Great Story. A lot like my thread which captures my LM journey. I am waiting for my LM150 to be delivered which will replace my LM-88 which I believe is the KT88 amp that you have mentioned. How would you compare the two? I understand what you mean by the 805 sound. I wanted it too but a lot of factors went against it for me in my setup. If LM can make an 805 and 150 combined amp minus the heat then it would be amazing. With regards to the hum, do you plug to the wall or a power conditioner? I live in Singapore FYI.
  25. Why only PL? Have you considered Line Magnetic? I compared both before going the LM way. If you get a chance do give it a listen. You can reach out to @Line Magnetic Australia to find out a dealer near you. With regards to the Pre/Power vs integrated, it all boils down to your needs. Remember that Tube rolling is expensive so if this is your first time into tubes, then starting with an integrated is a good idea. Also you need to figure out what Tube system you want to go with. Lower powered tubes are meant for high efficiency speakers and I’m afraid your speakers don’t really
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