Jump to content


Full Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Neutral

About StuDog78

  • Rank
    10+ Post Club

Profile Fields

  • Location
  • Country
  • First Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. There is no 'grey' area, people just need to stay at home. If this virus gets worst I'm sure there will be alot more "no longer required" Hifi gear for sale unfortunately.
  2. I thought it might be a good time to share my experience with my start to Tidal and how I finally controled the Tidal desktop app (without ROON ect.) from my phone or tablet as Tidal does not support like Spotify does. I was using the desktop Spotify app on a Intel NUC PC that outputs to a DAC using my phone or my tablet to control the program on the PC, easy its called Spotfiy connect. Goes as follows: (Intel NUC mini PC>>[USB]>>Schiit Etir>>[Spdif cable]>>Audiolab DAC>>Audiolab 6000a amp) Note: I use the Schiit Eitr for USB to Spdif(coax) as my DAC doesn't have USB input. Anyway… So, I thought I'd give tidal a run with the HIFI trail. I signed up, installed tidal onto the PC and installed app onto my phone and tablet then sat down to do some listening. But I quickly found out that the you cannot use the phone to control the app on my PC like I could with Spotify. Doing some research, it turns out that you can't, unless you use a third-party program like ROON or a commercial steamer with its own software or remote. However, that's beyond what I'm willing to spend, and going to be a deal breaker. But the biggest problem was that the sound vs Spotify was better and I couldn't go back to Spotify now 😫. The major difference between the two when using Windows, apart from the higher quality is that the Tidal software can send data to DAC though WASHAI in “exclusive mode”, where Spotify cannot (they say Windows mixer stuffs with the sound or something?), you can turn it on and off in the Tidal app and it makes a major difference to the playback to my ears. "In exclusive mode (also called DMA mode), unmixed audio streams are rendered directly to the audio adapter (DAC) and no other application’s audio will play and signal processing has no effect". nuprimeaudio.com So, I was stuck for a using a keyboard/mouse thingy until I found a work around which is what I wanted to share. I now use Google Chrome’s Remote Screen Share app (FREE). I use it to share the PCs screen and control it with my Android tablet on the touch screen. It works great, surprising well and only took a minute to install and get going. I just have the PC setup to start tidal on boot-up and turned off the windows login. So, when I hit the button on the PC it starts up and by the time I have sat down with the tablet, pressed the screen share app its ready to go, it’s great. When I finish, I just push the power button on the PC and it shuts down. I find the Tidal desktop is way better than the Spotify connect mobile app too. Anyway, hope this might help someone 🙂.
  3. Yeah that makes sense I stand corrected. That my be his issue then?
  4. I would recommend the $69 OYAIDE Neo d+ Class A -- https://www.mannys.com.au/oyaide-neo-d-usb-2-0-class-a-cable-2m. These came from their Studio/DJ line have all the specs on there website and are well built for touring. Its the best cable I have tried (note others where cheap and or printer cables). They are double shielded, sliver coated copper (the oxygen comes free with the copper (OFC) 🤫), gold plated plugs, 90 ohm nominal impedance and have measurements on their website, triple ticks all round (pixie dust, measurements and electrical engineering). Plus they come in pretty colours too. Plus Absolute Sound gave them a great review to put my mind at ease too. Like Ittaku says its important the cables are up to USB 2.0 specs. If its not, its not a USB cable, its just a cable.
  5. I'm no expert but sounds like the amps "clipping"? Have a quick Google/You-tube and see if that's what seems to be happened. It's basically when the amp is over driven and the signal sent to the speakers which is a wave form is flatten/clipped at the peeks and then overdrives the speaker. This can indeed damage your speaker and the coil with in. I would keep an eye on it if it does it again I would say there my be an issue with the amp not the source? Other members here would have better knowledge on this then me, I have not had an amp do that to me before. When playing music over a phone or iPad via an analogue output you should have the volume pretty high on the phone so the amp is not doing to much work to amplify the signal this might help if the amps clipping.
  6. You've more then likely have, but have you tried difference inputs eg. other then your computer trying a phone for a test? Plus have you tried different inputs eg. Aux, CD, Tape at the rear of the amp?? Some times on an old amp some inputs can be a little funny as can the speaker outs, have you tried both the A and B outputs? Plus I noticed that your amp has direct "pure" modes and an equaliser behind the front panel have you tried playing around with them?
  7. Just a though have you checked that the speaker are wired up correctly black to black red to red. (positive to negative).
  8. Ollie, I have read all the comments about and all these have there merits, however really the only answer to your lack of punch and bass from your bookshelf speakers firing into a 8X4m room is: Just add sub-woofer or get bigger speakers. You'll need a USB DAC to get the best out or system. Schiit do a nice one that you can buy direct from their website for 99USD plus shipping, sounds great and will provide a major improvement, you can get cheaper ones, though they never have the resale and just end up in land fill. Move your speakers further apart in the mean time, you might be cancelling out some bass doing having them to close. And if you buy same bread get the bread board or use an old text book. Good luck.
  9. Yeah I think that's the idea, you can power the output side of the PCB with a low noise power supply if you wish. With the WiFi usage, not sure that would too much of a problem, however you can always use an Ethernet cable to link two instead which is meant to be better. You might have to link the two via a router though. This might answer your questions better then I can https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV03z6kQq7w
  10. Nuc 8 https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Branded-Systems/NUC-&-Mini-PC/80284-BKNUC8CCHKR4
  11. This is the unit is its box, https://allo.com/sparky/usbridge-signature-player.html
  12. Have you considered the Allo USB Signature? Uses a Raspberry pie industrial board inside and can be used as a Roon endpoint and is purpose build. One option would be to buy a cheap Intel Nuc with the Roon sever running, then network the Allo USB Signature as the endpoint. The Allo would be better source then either the Intel or the over priced Roon brick hands down, plus is dead quite both audibly (fan wise) and electrically. Its a little more involved but the results I think would be worth it. I run a similar unit called the Allo Digione that outputs spdif not USB to my Dac and I am very happy with it. It is hidin way and I just use my phone as a remote. Worth a look anyway plus its cheap. https://allo.com/sparky/usbridge-signature-pcb.html
  13. You might check if the coaxes outer shielding is making good contact to the plugs outer ground potential. I have had a plug play up like that.
  14. 4k speakers are probably are more then fine but keeping with the car analogy. Sometimes you just have to pay more for something a little more desirable. 🤣
  15. There are some nice streamers out there atm. Good luck with everything.
  • Classifieds Statistics

    Currently Active Ads

    Total Sales (Since 2018)

    Total Sales Value (Last 14 Days)

    Total Ads Value (Since March 2020)
  • Create New...