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About StuDog78

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  1. If your wife is not going to be doing any critical listening and nothing better comes up second hand, something like a Topping MX3 Dac/Amp $200 shipped or something similar might be worth a look. Its got a remote, has auto source on/off, tone controls, optical in etc. headphone amp, Bluetooth, outputs 38W@8ohms (give or take) and its tiny and it'll be cheap to run. I'm sure the sound quality will reflect its price but it would still be very reasonable for background tunes and tv etc. for the money anyway. https://shenzhenaudio.com/products/topping-mx3-dac-with-built-in-bluetooth-
  2. Winno said adding a LPS to his Mac PC made a difference not to his Phono stage. He is asking if adding LPS to his phono also will make a difference also. Like bob_m_54 was saying, the manufacture said that their power solution on the mk4 (anyway) is immune to using a switching mode power supply. Not sure what DV version Winno has, but an upgrade to the power supply was done on the mk4 so if he has a mk2 there might indeed be merit in improving the PSU if the manufacture his seen merit in improving it on the newer model. Or it might be better and or cheaper to upgrade t
  3. That's good to hear, mains voltage isn't for the inexperienced. Hope your gears ok after a brown out that voltage is differently not in the range of ok. True it is a contact device lol. but it's less contact then holding a supercheap auto multi in the mains though 😬.
  4. This thing would work https://www.arlec.com.au/detail-2/?de=PC222 says it displays voltage. Might not be the most accurate thing in the world but would be in the ballpark.
  5. I should have said, use a noncontact "detector" not "meter". A noncontact detector just beeps when it detects voltage that's all, great little devices, good for a backup checker that every things dead. I was just jesting saying that the voltage shouldn't matter as long as its there. I rent a house at the moment in VIC and it doesn't have an RCD (I own a rental in QLD and it needs one by law, its the wild west down here for electrical safety...anyway of topic). Personally I wouldn't stick any old multimeter into the mains just for Schiits and jiggles. But I'm sure there is some plugin de
  6. Electrical engineers run the network like they do for a good reason. I personally think that everyone's equipment is going to be just fine (and that includes 1970s alarm clocks lol). FYI do not put a multimeter into your mains sockets to check your voltage use a noncontact meter for this, some cheaper multis are deadly (just if anyone was thinking about doing that)
  7. Yeah its pretty basic, why would I think devices are designed to handle that? I am new here, I will stop commenting and just let the older members comment from now on. Sorry for stepping on your toes mate.
  8. muon* why would you use a transformer stepping from 240vac to 220vac when the voltage in a domestic circuit could and would fluctuate within that range anyway? The transformer you posted does not regulate voltage btw its just a toroidal (pic below), so in some cases lowering the voltage well below 220v if given a lower voltage in the supply is received? The PS and the Isoteks do I believe regulate the volta ge but needed??? that's another question.
  9. Muon* So you saying voltage fluctuation in Aus destroys value amps???
  10. I didn't think mains voltage fluctuation is a problem, its just a reality, and yeah valve gear will be effected, but negatively, I wouldn't think so. If so, valve amps would be metres high at the dump as would every cathode ray tv back in the day. TheLastJedi what amp are you looking at? Metal Beat lol yeah everyone drives on the right side, according to them anyway 🤣.
  11. Australia is officially 230v not 240v (different in some states I think, QLD is one?) but anyway it doesn't matter. It should be fine, standards for electrical goods in AUD and most the world need to take voltages from 253 V to 216.2 V "AS60038" that's your fridge, your phone charger and your microwave etc. Distribution voltage is a variable thing and always is and always will be. Voltage drops during transmission dependent on your distance from your local substation and its output voltage of course. Its just 110 to 123v stuff that will give you major grief (smoke). I would say that the
  12. Yeah 5.1 has the voice directed to the centre speaker in the edit for Dolby or whatever. However in 2.1 it doesn't not matter as everything goes to the left or right. So happy days.
  13. Do you need a 7.1 or a 5.1 amp if you are not planning on using it for surround sound? A 2 channel amp might do everything you need and be far better for music. I am not sure about the 3.1. You what Left, Centre, Right and a Sub? I think you could get away without using a centre speaker. This would open your options right up with amps, at a higher quality too for less money. Better inbuilt DAC quality, better amp quality and great phono options and with better resale values. I would look for a stereo with a LFE/.1 out to make your sub options easier. S
  14. I don't think it would be too hard to better the DacMagic. As long as you stay away from cheapest options from onkyo, sony, denon ect. DacMagic 100 has been around for a while now and Dacs have come a long way, especially at that the lower price point. It would be a lot cheaper just to upgrade the DAC and hide it, if you're happy with your amp of course. A Schiit Modi 3 $190aud shipped, for example would eat the Magic for breakfast I'd say. I wouldn't pick an amp for its built in DAC performance personally over amp performance personally. As a DAC upgrade can be done chea
  15. Just food for thought. The speakers are of some vintage, do you know if the crossovers have had any attention since 1967 plus they are a three way too? I am no expert but it would be the first place I would look before looking at amps. Treble might be amazing but the mid/lower range in rock might be lacking a bit of speed or punch eg.? FYI I know nothing about crossovers but might be worth a look, I am sure there would be a recap kit that someone does for them.
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