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Harts

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About Harts

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    Adelaide
  • Country
    Australia
  • First Name
    Hartley

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  1. Thank you for posting this, I let my subscription lapse and rejoined using this offer, worked brilliantly.
  2. I think the power you need from an amp really only depends on the speakers you intend to use, some are efficient and won't need a powerful amp. You mentioned 150wrms @8ohms in your first post, that is pretty decent power handling afaik. My speakers are also not efficient, which is why I looked to vintage gear. I got quite a powerful, quality amp for relatively little money to drive my speakers, I wasn't looking to over capitalise, like you. I am somewhat of a novice, there are other, more knowledgeable users here that can advise better. Nonetheless, in a similar situation to you, my vintage experience has been successful.
  3. Hello @afie, I was in the same boat as you not so long ago. I purchased a second hand, vintage Yamaha CA-1000iii integrated from Japan for around $1000 delivered (make sure you understand the cost of delivery before buying, mine was $500 - as much as the amp cost). It is an integrated amplifier from the late 70's with an excellent amount of wpc @8ohms and a really fantastic quality sound. I now have it set up with a DAC which allows me to play lossless audio files and streaming (Tidal Master currently). It runs through some KEF LS50s and sounds really nice to me. If you are up for a challenge then I can recommend looking at vintage gear, Accuphase, Sansui and Yamaha can be phenomally good and if you search hard and intelligently enough, you can find a great unit, as I had the luck to. The older amps, as long as they are not VFET, seem to be almost infinitely serviceable too, so you can generally fix any issues you may have with them moving forward. A full service (re-cap) on mine runs around $300. I believe you would have to spend thousands for an equivalent price of equipment today.
  4. Burson V6 Classics are in, I'll give my feedback tomorrow... too late to turn it up now!
  5. Looks great and I bet it sounds even better. I think a Sansui will be next on my list!
  6. Loungeroom PC rig with an Asus Essence STX II running into a Yamaha CA-1000III powering some KEF LS50s and a Whafedale 8inch Sub. Playing FLAC through Groove, need to set up Foobar2000 and ASIO/WASAPI. Also waiting on my Burson V6 Classic Op Amps to arrive, any day now!
  7. So listening this morning, volume level has increased dramatically from before, for example, I used to listen to the volume at 42/100 for an enthusiastic session, and now I have it set at 20/100 for the same sound level. Bass has much more control, no boominess anymore. Midbass from the LS50s is much more present. I have turned the sub down a fair bit due to the stronger mids adding some heaft. Sound stage is wider, I can sit out of the previous sweet spot and the imaging is still correct. This really improves my listening experience because my work station is now properly staged, excellent result. Instruments are more detailed and more separated. Drums seem more purposeful and defined, L and R parts very clearly positioned. Overall I am very happy with this upgrade, I think it is the first time I have had a complete and considered signal path from audio (flac) through DAC to CA-1000iii amp and finally the LS50s. Something approaching HiFi maybe? I know I need to get Foobar organised now so I can go to ASIO/WASAPI to finish it off. I am looking forward to the NAD now! And the Bursons, of course.
  8. Asus Essence STXII arrived this afternoon. Wifey went to sleep so I popped it in my living room computer and fired it up. STX is connected to the CA-1000III via some decent RCAs now. It's a bit late here but I had a quick play using standard windows groove music player, some changes to the sound (listening at volume level 10/100 mind you) I feel. - bass/mid bass on the LS50s is greatly improved -greater separation - slightly increased width of stage -seems much louder for the same volume level I will test more tomorrow, but very happy. Looking forward to putting in the Burson V6 Classics when they arrive from Hong Kong. Cheers!
  9. Whilst I wait for the right time to upgrade my AVR to the proposed NAD, I have purchased an Asus Essence STX II sound card as well as the Burson Audio V6 Classic Opamp kit to up the sound quality vs. running off of my Realtek onboard sound. The STX II has RCA out (L/R) and a 1792A TI Burrbrown DAC, hopefully providing a higher quality experience than the current onboard Realtek (not that I am unhappy wirh It!). I am looking forward to trying to identify the sound difference. I am considering using Foobar2000 for the media player.
  10. I just read my last statement and answered my own question. If using 2 pairs of speakers the load would be 8-16 Ohms due to 2 x 4 ohm loads in parallel or 2 x 8 ohm loads in parallel, whereas using either a A or B you would have either a 4, 8 or 16 Ohm load. Thinking out loud, thanks!
  11. @mbz I tried to jumper from "pre-out" to "main in" Saturday after deoxit session did not improve the left channel. Jumpering still left the channel off, which made me think relay or pre-amp section. I am not equipped to desolder and remove the switch at the moment so I will leave that for the service/recap by whomever performs it. But I think the switch operation is ok, considering the jumpering result. As far as the speaker wiring was concerned; I am running only the LS50s off of the amp, my assumption to "bridge" the A/B Speaker terminals ran off of the speaker terminal plate reading "A+B 8 - 16 Ohm/speaker" thinking that it would offer my assumption of bridging vs the A or B speaker config of "4-16Ohm/speaker", obviously I am mistaken! I hate being a novice haha!
  12. DeOxit'd switches, any crackling, popping or intermittent operation (Input switch, I'm looking at you) is now gone. Left channel is still not operating in coupled mode, so I have it running de-coupled and being fed from my computer (hard wired 3.5mm minijack to stereo rca) into the "main in" on the CA. I am guessing the next step is to try the speaker relay and then the pre-amp board. This will be addressed in the recap/service. The same computer is fed via HDMI into my receiver, so I can choose stereo output for music (bit still have video fed via hdmi to receiver/tv) or HDMI for movies for 5.1. Obviously the NAD will help me integrate it all better. I am thoroughly enjoying the sound from the ls50s, I currently have the Wharfedale sub wired up with the LS50s into the sub's high level inputs, crossed at 55hz and quite low gain. I don't want the sub to overpower the LS50s at all, as they sound great. I am really enjoying the stereo imaging and the detail from the yammy, when I am in the sweet spot and close my eyes it puts a smile on my face! I (think I) am using the speakers correctly in Speaker Selector A+B mode, if anyone would care to comment on my wiring connection set-up as per the image.
  13. Mode switch most likely needs contacts looked at, coupler switch no left channel in coupled mode, so needs a clean as per. 2 channels bouncing on the meters decoupled, happy days. Have it hooked up, decoupled, through a 3.5mm to L/R RCA cable running off of my phone... not ideal! Sound is nice at low volume, running my crystal surrounds (makes those cheap little things sound good!). Also, a couple of light bulbs out in the meter on the right. No LS50s yet, currently setting up to (poorly) A/B Sony STRDN1040 stereo with LS50s vs. CA-1000III. Music on STRDN1040 is FLAC, but through the TV HDMI, CA-1000III has phone hard wired and playing downloaded Google play files... will properly A/B when I have a source I can connect to both.
  14. As requested @mbz. Fuses intact, leaking at pictured caps? Some charring on board from assumed arc flash? Cheers!
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