Adam5022

Further Information: This is one of the best sounding amps i have come across so far, and definitely the best condition. this amplifier even comes with the original box from 1976, unbelievable. The Sansui AU-4900 is an integrated stereo amplifier giving 38 watts per channel minimum into 8 ohms at 1000Hz with no more than 0.15% total harmonic distortion.

SPECIFICATIONS With a THD of 0.01% at 8ohms, this pioneer is near on sonicly transparent and will happily go head to head with the big players of the hi end hifi world. At a fraction of the cost 50 W + 50 W (20 Hz-20 kHz, 0.1 % THD, 4 ohms) › 30 W + 30 W (20 Hz-20 kHz, THD 0.05 %, 8 ohms) › THD: 0.01 % (Rated Output -3 dB, 8 ohms, 1 kHz) › Guaranteed Speaker Impedance (2 Speaker Terminals): › 4-16 ohms (A or B), 8-32 ohms (A+B), 4-16 ohms (Bi-Wiring) Frequency Response: 5 Hz-100 kHz, 0 dB/-3 dB, 20 Hz-20 kHz, › ±0.5 dB (RIAA Eqalisation) MM Power Requirements: AC 220-240 V 50/60 Hz › Power Consumption: 135 W › Power Consumption During Standby:0.3 W › Dimensions (W x H x D): 435 x 128 x 360 mm

hi, might be a bit of a noob question. but what do i have to do to actually apply the highpass filter ive created for my speaker design in WINISD? ive done all the modelling, and set a high pass filter at 32hz, just below my max cone excursion, which all looks good. the filter says " (butterworth, n=2, fc=32.00hz) im building a wifi/blutooth speaker with an arylic v4 board, which does not have DSP so i assume i have to add a capacitor some where in the mix? but now sure where? cheers for any help. much appreciated

I double checked my x,y,z parameters and they seem good. I think it's just the trace, as it looks like this when I highlight it ( see pic) On the peak it's all dotty and Incomplete, then corrects itself on the arch up. I've tried clicking a bunch of different spots to find the best match, but no good. Be great if I could just trace the line, rather than clicking on it and hoping for the best

Will do mate. Do you recommend a program to trace? I'm currently using FP graph tracer. But it's pretty useless. In saying that, I'm really happy with the crossover. knowing that it's just a graph misshap. Maybe I'll just order the speakers and get real measurements. Which opens up more Learning, how to make real sweep files haha

so ive changed LF drivers from a Dayton to a B&C, the B&C owns the Dayton in all ways. and it has given me an awesomely flat response. only thing, is my impendence is going haywire? showing different things on different graphs. we have a very simple 2nd order XO in play. MTM config. x2 of the LF drivers both 8ohm and wired accordingly, so that should give me a 4ohm load hey? which matches the tweeters ohm also. i think its possibly just how i traced the graphs of the B&C drivers, maybe it didnt perfectly translate to a good ZMA file? what do you guys think? cheers fellas

@davewantsmoore yeah that's correct mate

ive had a couple wines and have been playing around more. i decided to change to woofer in my MTM. im getting better responses. but still not happy with the results. im new to the DIY game, but as a reference, the base layer (7 channels) in my HT is a M&Ks150mkII/s150T line up and krix atmospherix for my heights so pin point accuracy is my main goal, otherwise what am i doing? im watching and re watching "toid DIY" on youtube, that guy knows his ****. but if you can recommend others that can teach an idiot like me, that would be sick haha

@davewantsmoore these are just "sims" I guess. Purely from frd/zma I very much assume the wiggly-NESS is from me haha both drivers are very flat on the charts online. Then turn to $#@ once I touch them haha

yeah mate, 1500hz is correct, sweet. ill look at the resistor

i was thinking this curve was actually a good thing? like a "house curve" you see in sub builds? im not too sure what gating or windowing is mate? any chance you could elaborate in a way a dumbass like myself could understand haha on the cross over design (jeff bagby) it was the listening position at 2.000 i assume thats 2 m? but not sure

ive been tinkering with this crossover for awhile. it looks pretty flat, but im not sure if its good enough? what do you think? any help would be great as im only just getting into this, cheers

I wired up my entire theatre with these. Took me forever to make. Made out of "ultra OFC" bunch of **** really, it's a conductor. But it was fun to make and looks great in the theatre

Hey guys, I'm needing a bit of help setting up my ano lens... I can't seem to get rid of this dark fade on the bottom and right side of the screen? I have tried tiny adjustments to the positioning of the lens, but this seems to be the best I can get there is also a very slight rainbow effect across the bottom, which doesn't really come out in the picture I'm running a sony vpl 590 with a Prismasonic P100R lens. Also in the chain is my oppo udp 203 and anthem 1140 There is also a pretty significant curve to the top of the picture, which is noticeable if you project straight lines, but not at all when watching a movie Any advice would be great, thanks in advance

Hmm, I've got 2 cheapy bookshelves that I can use for the x2 wides. Maybe I'll just stick with them (if at all) if they aren't going to get much use. I thought ide at least get some ambient background noise or something through them. But oh well. Someday, when I can afford a trinnov haha

That's true, but I was testing out with ready player one and a quiet place. 2 of the best atmos tracks around. I was under the impression that with atmos, the receiver decodes the atmos track and spread the sound around as required, to what ever set-up you have? Separating itself from the old 5.1, 7.1 styles

Hello, I'm currently running 7.3.4 on my mrx1140. I have the front three channels using an external amp I am trying to set-up my front L/R speaker terminals to front wide speakers using the amp matrixing feature. I have done a calibration with my mic, after adding the speakers, they come up great. They also work when I set speaker levels with the test tone. But when I play a dolby atmos movie, I get nothing from them at all. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, or if what im doing is possible? Any help will be great. Thanks

I ended up buying x2 svs sb3000s to add to my system. A bit pricey but judging by all the reviews and the good name of svs I couldn't say no. I was torn between making my own, but a friend of mine gave me a good reason not to, as it gives me something to aspire to later haha The subs should arrive soon, ill get some REW measurements and post them up as soon as I can

Room is basically 4.5x4.5m 2.7. High I'm running the new anthem 1140 with a mini dsp All subs are sealed. Was just wondering because the price of the svs has gone up to much, I can probably sell mine for a small profit and then buy 4 of the same sub. Or do I just get 1 extra and keep what I have I'll be getting the room calibrated by home theatre engineering in the near future

Hey guys, I have a great dedicated home theatre, I currently have 1 svs sb16 and a couple other 10" subs ( energy and psb) Would I get better bass ( hard hitting chest slam/ room responce) from my current set up or from 4 identical 12" svs? I'm thinking maybe the svs sb12 or even the 13" Thanks in advance peoples

It's awesome man, instantly had so much more clarity when I hooked the emotiva up. But with distribution stopped in Australia, might be worth going with something else?

Front baffle is now covered and looking good Krix atmospherix are now installed Carpet is in! I'm so happy that's over, there has been concrete dust all over my house for months haha We bought that same couch from the last post, it's really good. Got it from danks Wall acoustics are up, my windows are behind these panels. It worked so well, you wouldn't even know they were there Right side wall Inside my horrible roof space running cables. We are now in and watching movies, its so amazing. All thatsbleft is curtains on the front wall, get my anthem 1140 and have the room calibrated

Hey guys, im just wondering if it is ok to run my Sony projector and my anamorphic lens off of the same power in the back of my isotek Aquarius evo 3, using a double adapter? I'm assuming the lens doesn't require much, so piggy backing might be ok? Any help would be great, thanks in advance

Big day today. The new sony vpl-vw590es!! Can't wait to see what this looks like with my anamorphic lens

Ok! My screen arrived, I picked up mt diffusers for the back wall, thanks to Enzo at home theatre engineering. I re painted my ceilling for the 5th or 6th time. Though this time I asked my mate who is a qualified painter what i am doing wrong, as I couldn't get a flat finish without huge amounts of roller marks. I went out to a dulux shop and bought the Oldfield's roller pictured below. The difference is night and day! If you intend to use dulux home theatre black. Buy these rollers ( these cant be bought at bunnings), I would have saved myself a lot of time and money...I tried to get a photo of the before and after. But it didn't come out at all in a photo, both looked the same. The mounting brackets for the acoustic panels are up and ready to go, again, thanks to Enzo at HTE. I'm picking up my Sony 590 from West coast midland today! And lately a pic of the couch we are looking at getting.