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About b0dhi

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  1. I'd also suggest an isolation transformer instead of a power strip, but it should be noted that not any old isolation transformer will do. To get good noise rejection it has to have a very low interwinding capacitance, which generic isolation transformer typically don't have.
  2. Can't agree enough. It annoys me to no end that Chord puts such good DACs in such ineptly designed boxes. Every single aspect of the boxes, from the buttons to the displays (or lack thereof) to the actual box geometry is like its designed by a narcissist who hates the device's users and wants to spite them as much as possible while also jerking themself off about how different and unique their designs are. On top of that they're gaudy too. 🤮
  3. I wouldn't imagine foam would be practical for heavy or tall speakers. No idea which, if any, speakers come with them but you can buy speaker feet with springs integrated into them, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Isolation-Amplifiers-Subwoofer-Turnables/dp/B07S8BWP36
  4. Depends on budget. Chord Qutest or Hugo 2 are good choices that have excellent jitter rejection as well as asynchronous USB.
  5. If it makes any difference you'd be better off getting a better DAC. A good DAC is impervious to the effects of jitter from the source.
  6. Assuming we're talking good sized slabs and equal volume between the two, tungsten would definitely work better. People use stone because most people can't get their hands on appropriately sized blocks of freaking tungsten 😛 Btw, IME those rubber isolation pads don't work very well, and they will work even less well with a block of tungsten compressing them even further. Foam works better, springs work the best.
  7. Yes. Unless efficiency or output is your main priority, sealed is better.
  8. I tried a few different things for my bookshelves and ended up getting the best isolation by making a little wooden platform using springs and other bits and pieces I bought from Bunnings. It goes speakers -> little bits of cork -> springs -> wooden plank -> stand. Even when the speakers are blasting bass at full volume, if you touch the stand/platform it's totally inert. Cost like $5 in parts.
  9. Thanks for the suggestion. They'd be exactly what I'm after except for the fact they're ported 😢
  10. Does anyone know of 2 way bookshelves with a low crossover point, under 1000hz or so?
  11. Gotta love it when the person asking the question also thinks they're the expert on the answer.
  12. When one raises the volume at an audition, that actually tends to make the assessment more accurate because the recorded performance was almost certainly very loud, closer to a high volume than a "normal" extended listening volume. Ofcourse, listening at high volume all the time would be fatiguing and harmful to the ears, but there's no accurate way for the consumer to do proper volume compensation - that would require knowing the recording's absolute volume level, your music system knowing its own absolute volume level, and compensating for the differential between the two using DSP, Fletcher-Munson curves, etc.
  13. Rather extreme example but yes, that's basically what I was thinking. Except that the highrange driver would be more reasonably sized and have a higher crossover point, making it much smaller and more practical.
  14. Anyone know of a 2-way speaker with the "highs" crossed over to a woofer at a low frequency, say 500hz? Maybe using a large AMT/ribbon? This seems like it'd have most of the benefits of a single-driver speaker.
  15. No, it isn't. Loudness contours change both above and below most speakers' typical design volume.
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