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Everything posted by Lukeqc

  1. Item: Yamaha DSP-A1 Location: NOR Perth Price: $400 Item Condition: Used, yet amazing condition for its age. Reason for selling: Upgraded Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: I recently purchased this as an interim solution until I decided on which AVR I was going to get. Amazing power and a very capable amp for its age. Equally as good in stereo as when on surround sound duties. Yamaha's flagship home theater processor/amplifier; 7 channel amplifier; Dolby digital, DTS, Dolby prologic, and 39 other programs; Power handling+110 watts x 5 channels+35 x 2 effects channels; 39 DSP programs; Yamaha IC chips; Digital circuitry; On screen display with speaker test mode; Multiple digital inputs; Learning and programmable remote Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  2. Keep an eye out on eBay. I just got an open box sr7013 for just over $2k. Seemed too good to be true but I rolled the dice and It worked out.
  3. I have managed to pick up a Yamaha DSP-A1 for cheap and it’s seriously impressive for its age. A very capable amp. I have done a side by side test with my Audiolab 6000a and It’s really good. The Audiolab isn’t the best amp on the market, but I like the sound. I am enjoying the extra headroom the DSP-A1 has too. Still on the lookout for a late model Marantz but I have what I need until that comes up. I’m using the Audiolab as a pre for music. I am running optical into the DSP-A1 from the tv for surround sound duties.
  4. Do you have any recommendations of a good performer that I’ll be able to pick up for ~$200 second hand? Ideally it would have an optical in, and I’ll run audio out of the tv to the amp. Cheap and cheerful but it will get me through to next year. Front stage pre outs would be good too, as I’ll drive my fronts through my existing 2ch amp.
  5. I can get a sr5600 for real cheap. Is this worth it as an interim 5.1 system?
  6. The SR7011 I had lined up was a 110V unit with a 240V sticker on the back. I don’t want a transformer adding clutter. Unfortunate. The hunt continues!
  7. I’ve been told that the linked speakers will do for the rears but I want a 20* directional speaker for the mid heights. Any perceivable difference?
  8. I have secured a sr7011. Thank you everybody. Can’t wait to test it out. Next step is to get 4 height speakers to make my system a 5.2.4. What are some good quality height speakers that don’t cost an arm and a leg? I’m going to hold off on the power amp and see if the 7011 has enough grunt to drive 2ch enough.
  9. There’s so much info to take in! I got a pair of B&W 607’s and the htm6 centre yesterday. Really keen to get an amp and get the system up and running. Can I pose a question to the gurus... I was going to go down the path of a ~$2k avr, and then look at the possibilities of a ~$1.5k power amp to use for stereo duties, utilising my existing Audiolab 6000a as a pre for stereo. Will a $3500 avr drive 2 channels (B&W 603) in stereo as well as the dedicated power amp and pre? Is there other options available? Is this a crack pot idea? Sorry for the lack of knowledge on avr’s as I haven’t had much experience with them. edit: The power amp I’m looking at is the March p502 P502 500 Watt Stereo Power Amplifier | March Audio WWW.MARCHAUDIO.NET.AU The P500 stereo power amplifier offers tremendous power output for the most...
  10. Thank you for the heads up Neo. Legend How does the onkyo stack up against the older Marantz that I’m looking for?
  11. Ok no worries. More research needed. Cheers. haven’t seen a 7011 come up anywhere Betty 😩
  12. Is that insinuating that the Marantz isn’t the best option?
  13. After looking at reviews, I think the Marantz sr6014 is a goer. Is the Marantz a quality amp with good features and enough grunt at a reasonable price?
  14. I’ve got a pair of B&W 603 with 2 JBL active studio subs (pre out) from a Audiolab 6000a. The amp is going into protection Mode when asking a lot from it. Simply can’t deliver the power required. I’m glad that it’s doing this and not clipping my 603’s Question is, what’s the best option from here? Power amp and use the 6000a as a pre? New integrated 😫? I guess the real question is, what’s the cheapest way to get more power that doesn’t lack quality?
  15. It looks like shopping for an avr can quickly turn into a numbers game. I am using a 50w 2ch Audiolab 6000a to drive a pair of B&W 603’s and I haven’t maxed out volume, nor noticed lost information at higher levels of listening. I feel that a true 50w per channel will be more than enough for my requirements (if we are comparing apples with apples) I know that most manufacturers inflate power output figures when it comes to amp specs, but is it more so in avr’s than 2ch audio?
  16. ok. Cheers guys. I’ll add the Denon to the list
  17. Cheers snoopy. I use IK Arc room correction in my studio space, although that was after spending a heap of time treating the room and getting the mix position right. I have already conceded defeat in regards to acoustics in my theatre space. It was a pain to do it once... but you have me thinking along those lines again. I could definitely get the room sounding better than what it is at the moment. Regardless of room correction, does the NAD perform as good as the Marantz SR7011?
  18. Cool. Thank you. What models of Denon/Marantz/Yamaha should I be looking out for? Is the Yamaha model above a good quality amp?
  19. Hi. I have an Audiolab 6000a along with a pair of B&W 603 floor standers. I’m after an AVR, and I’ll be getting the matching 600 series centre and rear speakers at the same time. I don’t mind buying second hand. What are my options with a $2k budget? Obviously I would like to get an atmosphere receiver but the budget is at a bit of stretch. Thoughts?
  20. Can’t find anything related to the 6000a apart from - Some brands are more conservative than others when it comes to specifying power output (and speaker sensitivity!) but Audiolab is flying quite close to the wire with its 50W/75W 8/4ohm rating for the 6000A. With a high 246V AC mains feed it manages 2x55W/2x85W, respectively, but we've seen other 50-watters achieve 70-80W/8ohm in practice. Nevertheless, the PSU is sufficiently 'relaxed' to support a far higher 71W and 133W into 8 and 4ohm loads under dynamic conditions, albeit with some restriction to 99W/55W into lower 2/1ohm loads [see Graph 1, below]. Otherwise, the A-wtd S/N ratio is very generous at 92dB (re. 0dBW), the output impedance usefully low at 0.01ohm and the response very extended, reaching 20Hz-20kHz (±0.1dB) and out to –1.6dB/100kHz. Distortion is also very low at ~0.0004% through the bass and then increases gently to 0.001-0.006% in the midband to ~0.03%/20kHz and 0.06%/40kHz. image: https://www.hifinews.com/images/519audiolab.lab1.jpg Dynamic power versus distortion into 8ohm (black trace), 4ohm (red), 2ohm (green) and 1ohm (cyan) speaker loads. Maximum current is 7.4A image: https://www.hifinews.com/images/519audiolab.lab2.jpg Distortion vs. digital signal level over a 120dB dynamic range (preamp out), 1kHz (black); 20kHz (blue) The onboard DAC stage is certainly no afterthought – tested via the preamp output (a maximum of 2.8V being available here) – it delivers a performance that's commensurate with most ESS9018-based outboard DACs at £500. The A-wtd S/N is a wide 109dB and low-level resolution is good to ±0.2dB over a 100dB dynamic range. Jitter is exceptionally low at <10psec across all sample rates and distortion is not only as low as 0.0005-0.0014% at –10dBFs (20Hz-20kHz) but is also very consistent with frequency below –20dBFs [black vs. blue traces, Graph 2]. With the default linear phase digital filter option, stopband rejection is a full 83dB and the response reaches out to –0.2dB/20kHz (CD/48kHz media) with –1.3dB/45kHz and –3.7dB/90kHz realised with 96kHz and 192kHz files, respectively. PM Read more at https://www.hifinews.com/content/audiolab-6000a-amplifierdac-lab-report#Xb1yktGvgOJfl2qe.99
  21. The above graphs show the electrical behavior of the B&W 603. Bowers & Wilkins specifies the impedance load of the 603s to be 8 ohms nominal with a 3-ohm minima. However, in our testing, that is a pretty optimistic characterization of the overall impedance. The upper bass region and a big chunk of midrange frequencies hover around 5 ohms with a 4-ohm minima at just above 100 Hz. We can see from the low-frequency saddle that port tuning is just below 30 Hz, and that is a relatively deep tuning frequency for a speaker of this size. The good news is that the impedance curve is pretty stable and does not have wild swings. The bad news is that there are some rather steep phase angles in low impedance points in the bass frequency range. That will make this speaker a tough load for cheap receiver amplifiers. These speakers should be used with amplifiers that are rated to handle 4-ohm loads, especially if the user intends to push these speakers to loud levels.
  22. They were powered by a Rotel A12 in the shop, which I believe is a comparable amp to the 6000a? Do you think the 6000a is too underpowered for the 603?
  23. Ok. I will hold out on the sub. $3k on an amp is a bit out of my reach. Do do you think the 603 and 6000a is a setup that compliments each other? Are there any common alternative speakers that are paired with the 6000a that are known to sound amazing?
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