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About Uglu

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  1. Yes, you are right, thank you! I apologize, I have misread your post, I thought you were adding a full phono pre circuit to an amp that only had line input. In that case my choice would have been the DL110. I must agree with Tobes, going the cheap, low output MC way is not necessarily the best way to spend your money. The 103 is another nice sounding cartridge that is cheap but besides the cartridge the MC stage is as important as the cartridge, perhaps more. Just lifting the MC signal level might not be a guaranteed of good sound, even with a good cartridge. These days the myriad of dedicated phono stages of all kind of prices are proof of that and the SUT is another story as well. I do like trying different things as long as long as I am comfortable knowing that the results might not be what I've desired after spending the time and money. So, if you go ahead I hope you enjoy doing it and get satisfying results.
  2. Is it doing it on both channels at the same time? If you have eliminated the chance of bad connections or bad cables. The are a number of components that can go faulty and cause that problem, from faulty transistor o capacitors to a dry joint. There could even be an internal cable plug that is not making good contact.
  3. If you want an MC without breaking the bank and provided your MM phono input is not a noisy one I would suggest you try the high output DENON DL 110. It was my first MC, I still have a couple around that I use on my secondary TT, It doesn't reach the level of a top MC but I am perfectly happy using it despite having much better cartridges. For me these days is MC or nothing.
  4. I understand, you need to compromise one way or the other but seriously, try and compare. In such distance I am convinced you will certainly notice a big degradation no matter what equipment or cables you use.
  5. I think the wire in the antiskate is not running through the groove as per instructions.
  6. It is not quite clear to me in the photo but it seems you have the wire for the weight attached to the screw. What I seem to work out is the wire should go through the copper/brass loop at the end of that half moon and it should be able to move freely according to the position you set that half moon. Currently It doesn't appear to accomplish the function is meant to as appears locked or stuck on the screw.
  7. That is a very long run for a line level signal. Even with very good cables you will lose a lot of dynamics and the sound will be much duller than if you have a run of 3Ft which is probably a good average. If I were you I would look into trying to have all the components closer.
  8. I like both but if the Pioneer needs the veneer you'll either spend a lot and may not end up right or you'll never fix it and use it looking daggy for years. If the Thorens is right you'll still need to consider several hundreds for most acceptable arms. Both need the cartridge so that's not something I would take into consideration. Probably the Thorens is my choice in this case.
  9. I completely understand and can relate to that but I'll send it back. I cope with a lot but that is just too much.
  10. It is not how I have it but given the chance I would have the tt separated from the rest to prevent touching controls and vibrations being transmitted that way. I personally don't need to go to that extreme as I am fairly happy with my set up. Iso-Pucks + heavy acrylic base then the TT that has it's own isolation. I really need to do something silly to have a problem. Loud music has never been a vibration problem, only busy hands.
  11. If you buy isolation feet pay close attention to the weight specs as for best results your TT -plus butcher's block- need to be within the range specified or it won't isolate that well. I am using Iso-pucks from isoacoustics and do work but I was expecting better. There are the Orea blue that are supposed to be better but are substantially more expensive. If you have the choice of having it separated from the rest of the component I'll probably chose that.
  12. There are a few others with controls at the front like the Cyrus phono signature which can also be upgraded with the external power supply and you can change settings by remote control. It also has inputs for 4 TT's. It's an excellent unit. The Manley labs steelhead you've posted is substantially more expensive than the others discussed here. There is a cheaper version, the chinook but that one I think has all the settings at the back or inside people seem to like both manley, the chinook is valve based too.
  13. My pleasure, If you are suffering the channel difference with other sources then it can be the amp or the speakers. If the speakers are old it could be that one of the capacitors in the crossover might be going bad. After many years of coping with one of my speakers lacking bass compared to the other I finally had a look and a bad cap was causing the difference but yes it all takes time and for that reason I've just coped with it for a long time. The drivers themselves could be the problem but it's hard to pin point long distance. Regarding the anti skating, I have no idea about your tonearm but watch these videos by this well respected guy as they could be helpful. part 1 of 2 part 2 of 2
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