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wrecker

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About wrecker

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  1. Good news - sorted and enjoying the good sounds again The journey to nirvana I pulled the deck apart as it was time for a service and a spit shine anyway I started with a quick check of the arm wires with the lead out cable in place. Most were around 14 Ohms - a bit high methinks - and one wire had an inconsistent reading. I then pulled the deck apart to remove the arm for further testing. I noticed that the plug at the base of the tone arm fell out rather freely and I think at the end of the day that this was the main culprit for all the popping and crashing sounds. Anyhow I pulled the arm off the table and set it up on the bench - took the Benz out first as it is too precious to be on the arm when testing. Confirmed that two lead out were at 13-14 Ohms, one at 3 Ohms and one all over the place. So re-soldered all cart tags - now all 3-4 Ohms each - God Litz wire is shite to work with, Also checked and found two wires had flaky insulation where the wire exit the arm and enter the base - I raided the model cabinet for some Tamiya clear and patched up the insulation and re-dressed the cables Clean up time, belt clean, sub-platter clean up, re-oil bearing, set belt tracking, check speed (now has DC motor) and re-assemble Set up cart, plug in and JOY oh JOY a happy man again The stand-by table with lesser arm and cart, although bloody good are just not in the same league. It is amazing the differences a good arm and cartridge can have when installed on what is basically the same table. Time now to work on my next uni-pivot arm to see how this compares. This is another story for another day methinks
  2. I got muted sound back in the bad channel. Noises like plugging in a mic - not good. My thoughts are pretty much as you have suggested Owen Cart is Micro Wood in a Roksan Artemiz/Xerxes. Might have to dig out the old RB300 to keep the music flowing or finish off a uni-pivot project I am working on. Will need to wait till the weekend now a bit busy this week
  3. Went play my TT last night and I have lost a channel. Checked and found a loose connection on one cart pin but the whole lot crackles and pops - nah loud bangs more like it. Tapped the arm and this introduced more loud bangs. Anyhow want to know if I can check the coils on my MC cart with a multi-meter as part of fault finding process. I suspect that one of the arm wires has partially shorted to the arm but I need to check every thing in the chain. I have swapped from my external phono pre-amp to the one in the amp and the results are similar so I think the phono pre is OK. I am a bit wary of testing the coils of the cart with my multi-meter as it is a bit expensive if I cock it up and cook the coils. Any help appreciated
  4. Can you keep us posted on motor and controller types. I recently installed a OL 200 series motor to my Roksan Xerxes to good affect. I did not have recourse to using an OL controller as I bought the motor from another forum member and I cobbled up a basic controller using a Jaycar variable voltage supply kit. It works, speed is stable and sound good too. I cant compare to the original AC motor as the PSU for that went bad hence the DC drive fitment
  5. The site used to be easier to navigate dear sir
  6. Have you got a price in mind?
  7. Here is my mule. Guts is from a Thorens TD150 with the rest put together by yours truly including the arm
  8. Have a look in Spotlight. Cheaper than Jaycar with a range of different sizes and densities.
  9. Back when I used to manufacture speaker stands I did a lot of playing around and spikes won out over no spikes every time. Sound is fuller, more cohesive and bass is tighter. On carpeted wood floors sit the spikes on square drive or cross head screws driven to a level just lower than the top of the carpet. Another is to make sure all spikes are in contact with the floor and the lock nuts are tight. There is a lot of so called science and hype surrounding the issue of spikes but the difference is like changing speaker wire from 1.5mm tru-rip to any well regarded speaker wire. Oops, did I mention wire
  10. omegaspeedy;188961 wrote: Sounds cool, looking forward to seeing your next project. The mouse is a microsoft compact and they cost around $20 from DS. They are a bit smaller than your standard mouse but the wire is slightly bigger than 33 gauge and ver flexible. Wired mice are fast entering the realm of the dodo and moa
  11. Thanks for the kind words. The journey has been fun and a great learning experience. The Roksan tt's I have mount the motor on the bottom plate which is isolated from the top plate where the arm and platter are mounted. I took a leaf out of their book. looks like tricky dickie will get a visit tomorrow as the mouse wire I used was an old as found mouse - I can be bit cheap at times. Arm number two is on the drawing board - some carbon tube arrived today. I will stay with a 230mm arm at this point as I do not have anything to moun a 12" arm onto - yet
  12. "PS. I recall that Papa used stripped Mouse cable v successfully for tonearm wiring...?" Yup - the tone arm is wired with mouse wire - although flexible it is a little too big , but it does seem work.
  13. A quick update - I assembled the tt, set up parameters again and ran it up in my system. Damn - motor #2 is noisy as well, just not as noisy as #1. The noise comming out is good but you can hear motor noise comming through on the run out grooves. A bit of a dissapointment. The plinth, tee chassis and underside of the top plate have all been treated wth sound deadener and still the noise gets through. Looks like the fishing thread belt will have go - I ordered a TD150 belt from Klaus and it arrived Friday so I will look at moving the motor inboard to match the spacing for the drive belt. Also thought why not isolate the motor from the top plate so I cobbled together a motor plate with isolation blobs mounted off the base. Another test run - silence at last I will post pix when I tear down the table next to fit up the arm lift - just too eager to see how it performed to take pix. The one below is with the fishing line drive belt.
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