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James1553552683

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About James1553552683

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  1. floydie;144044 wrote: any thoughts? Yes, if you're planning on using different drivers, you should plan on redesigning the crossovers.
  2. It's simple economics, except the scale has gone global. Forget about exotic, imported stuff for a moment. How about basic stuff that we produce here, such as Radiata Pine for the fence and a leg of lamb for the Sunday roast? How many of you realise we're paying export prices for second rate stuff kept for the local market? Do you think the exporter has any sense of parochialism to keep local buyers happy? Hell no! So what's wrong with voting with your wallet as a buyer? P/S: I do think the Warehouse has singularly created a "buy cheap" mentality in Kiwis that I find disappointing.
  3. Owen Y;141987 wrote: PMS (Poor Man's Strad) indeed! That IS an interesting project. This is my PMS, with the Allison Effect thrown in for good (bass) measure. 600mm wide, 300mm deep, over 1.4m tall. Wave-guided Seas 27TDC tweeter Seas P18RNX mid Scan-speak 25W8565-00 woofer (sealed) Semi-active, tri-amplified. Magic. James Attached files
  4. Gary.M;122029 wrote: Hi James, How much are they? The DW621 is around $500 new, and worth every cent. James
  5. I recommend the Dewalt DW621. It has a 1/2-inch collet, super-clever dust extraction system (still need vacuum source), soft-start, variable speed (important if using big bits) and best of all, is very compact and light for a 1/2-inch router. I love it so much I have two, and have built more than a dozen pairs of loudspeakers and various pieces of furniture with them. James
  6. Mark, You can read all about the development and conclusion of the only other pair of E-IVs in the world, halfway across the globe in the UK, in this Pink Fish thread. http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7510 Their owner eventually replaced nothing less than a pair of Naim SBLs with them. James
  7. Nice loudspeakers, Mark. I'm pleased to see they don't disappoint. James
  8. You can have some of my business if you can stock Scan-speak as well. I could do with several pairs of 15W8530-K01s. James
  9. Halo88;100629 wrote: Hi James, The Pass Labs power amp looks fairly enclosed, although it's class A/B does it run hot? Regards. I think it's class-A up to a certain power level. The side fins dissipate enough heat not to get pent-up. James
  10. I made this modular tripod for a friend ... Attached files
  11. Hi Jim, I have two lengths of unterminated 2919 of around 6.5-7m each. I need to measure to be sure. Would this help you? Regards, James
  12. neil;75274 wrote: righto, I give up... Why? I was only pulling you up on one point. Would you consider the latest Ferrari underpowered? I do when it is asked to tow a fully loaded B-train. The same deal applies to loudspeakers. Some loudspeakers demand more powerful amplifiers before they come on song. It's not a question of how much power they have, but how much current they can swing. Those that can't quite muster enough are simply underpowered for that application. I'm sure they'd otherwise be fine with easier loudspeakers. Horse for courses, etc etc. BTW, I'm happy to be corrected if I'm wrong. James
  13. Neil, You don't quite have your 'facts' straight. Most amplifiers are voltage sources. Hence, you don't apply power to a loudspeaker, you adjust the available voltage. Depending on the impedance on hand, the loudspeaker draws current and thereby consumes 'power'. The more voltage, the louder it gets, the more power is consumed. But what if the voltage rails are not ably supported by current drive? Simple answer, you get the McLaren A150b effect. Lots of noise, but not much else happens. The McLaren A150b is an 'underpowered' 75-watter. Pairing it with a reasonably demanding loudspeaker like a Linn Sara, and you will have an underpowered amplifier. Don't forget that Power (watts) = Voltage (V) * Current (amps). A 75W amplifier driving a nominal 8-ohm load is required to generate slightly over 3 amperes of current. Reduce that impedance to 4 ohms, and the available power (assuming 3 amperes max current) sags to 36 watts. Add in a bit of reactance to make the amplifer see effectively 2 ohms at some part of the audio spectrum, and the power drops to 18W. I personally think 18W is just too underpowered into 85dB loudspeakers, especially if one is led to believe they have 75W. Don't you? James
  14. PeteG;74924 wrote: it is difficult to explain in a small number of words how the effect of deep bass with small drivers is achieved, however I have an in depth article which I can email to you if you are interested. I have no problems with small drivers reproducing deep bass. A Scan-speak 18W/8535-00 in a big box will go impressively low for a 7" woofer. My issue is with amplitude. A small driver, no matter how cleverly fooled by active electronics, is still a small driver that has a defined radiating area. The only way you get more acoustic output is to excurse more. In that regard, a larger woofer will always sound more convincing with bass transients. Subjectively, a small woofer always sounds like it is trying too hard. This is the simple reason why large loudspeakers are often touted to sound more effortless. James
  15. PeteG;74920 wrote: ... large drivers (15-18"plus) are not suitable for a music reproduction system as they are not "quick enough" - i trust that the hifi term "quick" has been covered well enough previously in this thread. To explain further, although a large woofer can move the required amount of air, it is very difficult to maintain the correct timing to produce "tight" bass, and also to maintain firm control over the surface of the cone (larger drivers flex more, leading to increased distortion) With all due respect, this is not quite right. All things being equal, a larger driver is more sensitive than a smaller driver with the same motor. The BL product * Sd / mms is invariably higher with a bigger driver. My experience tells me that sensitivity is directly correlated with the speed and vitality of a loudspeaker system. Ever heard Tannoy 15" DCs sound 'slow'? The only time a larger driver flexes is when it is a cheapo piece of rubbish, or when it is operated outside its intended passband. PeteG;74920 wrote: ... uses advanced electronic technology to "fool" small woofers (6.5-10") into thinking they are operating in much larger enclosures, therefore producing a tight, scarily "quick", and tunefull bass that also reaches low low low (in some cases down to 18Hz +/- 3dB) These subwoofers are extremely easy to integrate into any system, and never "overtake" or dominate the rest of the sound. Yer cannae fool physics. A 6.5" driver will shift as much air as the next one. The only difference is if you provided EQ and give it stupidly huge Xmax limits. In which case, a bigger woofer will still sound more convincing. Stirring paint with a knitting needle, no matter how fast, does not produce quite the same effect as a broad paddle, eh? The other thing of note is bass gravitas should not be confused with bass extension. People seem preoccupied with going as low as possible, when in reality what you want is convincing authority at the lowest fundamentals of music. For the most part, that's around 40Hz. James
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