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About MosfetMainac

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    New Zealand

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  1. If only you were in NZ, otherwise I would have been keen on the altec horns.. Nice Find!
  2. Cheers, still trying to find parts for the RMG309, not giving up but it does seem to be a difficult task at present. My preference is to try and find original parts as I seem to always be short of the time it takes to produce bespoke units. Here's a pic of the tonearm when I first got it
  3. Similarly I use Hik wired cameras, their accusense ones have human detection, line crossing etc. and a speaker and mic built in which is surprisingly handy!, also their IR illumination is very good for a low end/ mid low camera. The thing that trips most people up is looking for an event if something happens and this is where I’d recommend NX Witness. You need a small server and you buy licenses per camera but it’s an absolutely superb product. Most people can’t believe how easy mine is to use, amazing pic quality, even on a mobile phone, and it has advanced search features for example, If a b
  4. The 16" TT is a Nippon Columbia, I'm following a fellow members lead who has previously restored 2 of these, I'm going to do a restore, or possibly.... At this point I'm unsure if I'll keep it in the original cabinet or go for a new plinth. It's in very good condition for it's age so I'm tempted to keep the original format. The tube preamp and associated electronics is also in great condition, so at present I'm starting on a re-cap before I apply power to anything. Regarding the 12/D, Not sure if I'll ever use it and I have plenty of other projects at this point.
  5. I have the remains of 2 RMG309's and I'd like to get one up and running if I can, to use on a 16" TT project I'm about to embark on. In saying "remains" I have the weight/base/bearing shell assy, to complete it I believe I need the actual tonearm and headshell, possibly lifter etc. Was wondering if there was a local that might be able to point me in the right direction for this? AKL NZ. On a side note, I have a commonwealth 12/D TT in fairly good condition (Or some tubes) as a trade etc. Cheers MM
  6. Ia = Anode Current mA = Milliamperes Anode current is the reading you measure after checking for shorts etc., normally it takes a minute or two for the tube to warm up and stabilise Gm = Mutual Conductance, this is measured after backing off the meter dial to zero.
  7. Something to be aware of is that there are errors in some of the AVO Valve data books, I do recall seeing the 57mA rating in one of the later books for the EL34 as well as incorrect tumbler position settings for some reasonably common valves. It may pay to download a couple of different versions to cross reference mm.
  8. Both actually, I started collecting all sorts of tubes many years ago for fixing radios, audio gear and for display, but after a while it gets to the point where it becomes unmanageable and I try not bringing banana boxes full of tubes unless there’s something I really want in there.
  9. More of a hoarder than a user, but that's slowly changing.
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