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AudioFool18

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About AudioFool18

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    VIC
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    Australia

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  1. Thanks again for the comments everyone. I have about 3 weeks before I start on this. The 7.2.4 or 5.2.2 should be relatively easy to sort out I think. I can set the speakers up and see which works best in the room. So let's start with the riser and the layout. I am assuming the riser will need to be carpeted as well? Meaning I'll have to get that made before the carpet goes down? Which of course means I'll have to decide the orientation of the room , then build the riser, then cabling, then carpet it. I'm thinking the best test I can do is to set it up wi
  2. Firstly, @niterida thanks for all the great info. There is a lot of info there, so for simplicity, I will stick with 2 points for now. Will explore the rest as I progress. 1. Layout I initially had the layout the same way you have suggested. The problem was how to mount the surround R speaker? There is a big window there. The speakers I am using for surrounds are the Definitive Mythos 8 on wall speakers. As I understand it, the thing to do now is to mount them at ear level, and I couldn't see how I could do that. If this could be done, then this would be my preferred layou
  3. Thanks everyone again for their comments. Reality is barn doors are staying. I'll have to live with that. I had though every little bit of sound proofing would help, but have learned based on everyone's comments that is not the case. So basically have given up on sound proofing the room. In many ways this is good. It will save me money and will speed up the process. So next step is to get the wiring/cabling plugs etc in, then carpet. I will start this in about 3 weeks. For sound treatment, it seems like there is no 1 size fits all, and the only way to d
  4. Hi everyone, thanks for the again for all the great advice. If I know then, I would have not put in the barn doors. But they have cost so much money, there would be too much domestic disturbance to get rid of them ... in fact, I think she would get rid of me before she gets rid of them. So the barn doors are staying. Given the difficulties of the barn door and corner windows etc, I think I can safely say I will not be doing any sound proofing/insulation. Seems too difficult and won't get me the results I want. So the next step is the actual setup and room tr
  5. Thanks for everyone's reply so far ... it's been both good and bad for what I want to do. At this stage I am just concertraing on sound proofing. Once that's done I'll deal with the sound treatment, speaker layout etc etc. The only things which can't be changed is the size/shape of the room, the windows, and those bloody barn doors. From the comments here is what I've taken away. Unless I can somehow seal the barn doors, there is no point in doing any sound proofing. IF barn doors can be sealed, then it may be worth putting 16mm Fyrchek plaster board
  6. Yes there is a back wall. I removed it form the 3D drawing so the room better. The positioning is very rough at the moment. My plan is to put the seat about 1/3 the way in the room ... but of course much of this will depend on how things fit. I did want 2 rows of seats, but I don't think there is enough real estate there for it. Yes I have subs ... they will be where the main speakers are more or less. Ceilings are 2.4m, and I didn't know there was a formula to work out where speaker fit. Thanks, this will be very useful. Positioning the ceiling spe
  7. Can't get rid of the barn doors. This was a very contentious point and a very expensive one and in the end the barn doors are in and they are here to stay. The barn doors are solid, but you are right there are huge gaps. I was thinking of putting some sound proofing foam on the inside of the barn doors, and maybe the carpet can go right out under the barn doors to minimize the gap. The barn doors will not be going unfortunately, and I understand no matter what I do there will always be gaps in the barn doors ... does this mean any sound proofing I do inside the room is a w
  8. Hi everyone, After some major renos on the house, (which initially included a media room), I have ran out of money with a room left to finish. The media room is approx 5.3 x 4m, with windows in the corner. My plan is to go 7.2.4 and in terms of equipment, I basically have everything. I have a few questions but let's start with these. 1. Sound insulation / Room treatment I think it's a good idea to get the room sound treated, but not sure about costs and how to do it. I have watched videos but they all seem to go way over the top with sound batts, the
  9. I change my system all the time. I've constantly got things I NLR. Sometimes I regret it very much after selling it. It may be because it sounds bad, but it just as easily be a hundred other different reasons. I'm not sure the reason matters does it? The unit is the same and sounds the same
  10. Monster Toslink Digital Fiber Optical Cable THX Certified Approx 1.2m or 4' long with nylon sheath/jacket In excellent condition
  11. Hi, There are a few people interested who had contacted me first. If it falls through, I'll let you know. Thanks
  12. A pair of Straight Wire Rhythm II Speaker Cables 2 x 3m Bi Wire - Terminated at 1 end with 4 x banana plugs, and the other end with 2 x banana plugs. In excellent condition - Not there is some white (appears to be paint( on some of the cable as can be seen in the photo). Otherwise everything else is in excellent condition.
  13. Hi, Based on AusPost website it's about $9 for anything under 5kg, so that should more than cover the postage. If you want both, I can give you the 12 x half RCA cables (also advertised here) if you want for free. Thanks
  14. Velodyne CHT-R Subwoofer CHT-10R Powered DSP Subwoofer In excellent condition. 10" Driver 28Hz - 140Hz (+-3dB) 185W RMS Amplifier 40 x 37.5 x 44 cm 25kg No remote. I lost it years ago, but never had a need to replace it. Pickup from Altona Meadows. Can post, but will be very expensive due to size/weight. Manual: https://velodyneacoustics.com/pdf/cht/CHT-RManual.pdf ]
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